bāng hǎi lǎo shù shēng chá

I-Banha laoshu shengcha iyi-pu’er eluhlaza (生茶, shēngchá), eyenziwe ngamaqabunga ezihlahla zetiye ezindala zendawo yase-Banha esifundazweni sase-Yunnan eningizimu-ntshonalanga ye-China. Lena itiye elicindezelweyo elivela ezinhlobonhlobweni zamahlamvu amakhulu ase-Yunnan, elidlule ekulungisweni kokuluhlaza nasekomisweni elangeni, kodwa elingakaze lihliselwe ekuvuthweni okusheshisiweyo kokokwenziwa. Leli tiye laziwa ngokumnika okuqinile nokucebile, kanye nokubaba okuvezwayo kodwa okuguquka ngokushesha, ukunambitheka okuqhubekayo okumnandi emuva, kanye nomlingiswa ‘wezintaba’, okuyisici esivamile ezintweni ezingavuthiwe ezivela ezihlahleni ezindala. Esigabeni esiphelele sama-pu’er, likuma esimeni esiphakathi phakathi kwamatiye evendle ajwayelekile namatiye ayigugu avela ezihlahleni zasendulo. Njengamanye ama-sheng pu’er, i-Banha iyathakazelisa hhayi kuphela ngesimo sayo esisha, kodwa nangekhono layo lokuvuthwa kancane ngesikhathi sigcinwa, iguqule ukunambitheka kwayo eminyakeni eminingi.

1. Ukwahlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

Uhlobo: i-pu’er eluhlaza (生茶, shēngchá)
Isigaba: i-pu’er (普洱茶, pǔ’ěrchá), iqembu lamatiye avundiswa ngemuva
Inhlobonhlobo: amahlamvu amakhulu ase-Yunnan (云南大叶种, Yúnnán dàyèzhǒng), Camellia sinensis var. assamica
Izinga lezinto ezingavuthiwe: ‘izihlahla ezindala’ (老树, lǎoshù)
Imvelaphi: indawo yase-Banha (邦海, Bānghǎi), isifundazwe sase-Yunnan (云南, Yúnnán)
Indlela yokukhishwa: ngokuvamile isinkwa elicindezelwe (饼茶, bǐngchá), imvamisa isisindo esijwayelekile esingu-357 g

Igama laleli tiye lakhiwa izingxenye ezintathu: igama lendawo i-Banha (邦海), inkomba yobunjalo bezinto ezingavuthiwe ‘izihlahla ezindala’ (老树), kanye nohlobo lwetiye ‘i-shengcha’ (生茶). Ingxenye ethi 邦 (bāng) emagameni ezindawo zase-Yunnan ivame ukufakwa emagameni ezigodi zetiye ezisezintabeni; amagama afana nalawa atholakala eXishuangbanna (西双版纳, Xīshuāngbǎnnà), naseLincang (临沧, Líncāng). Emikhubeni yezentengiselwano, itiye i-Banha livame ukuhlanganiswa nezinto ezingavuthiwe zesifunda sase-Menghai (勐海, Měnghǎi) e-Xishuangbanna — umnyombo womlando wokukhiqizwa kwe-pu’er, — noma kunjalo, ukuhlanganiswa okuqondile kwezokuphatha ezingeni lesigodi emithonjeni yezohwebo akuvamisile ukugxilile.

I-pu’er njengomkhiqizo onegama lendawo ilawulwa e-China ngezinga likahulumeni GB/T 22111-2008, elibeka kuphela ukuthi itiye elivela ezintweni ezingavuthiwe zamahlamvu amakhulu ase-Yunnan, elikhiqizwe ezifundeni ezibaluliwe zesifundazwe, lingabizwa nge-pu’er.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Indawo yokuzalwa yokulima: i-Yunnan ibhekwa njengenye yezindawo ezaqala ukuvela kwesitshalo setiye, kanti izifunda ezisezintabeni zaseningizimu yesifundazwe ziyizindawo ezaqala ukuvela kwetiye lamahlamvu amakhulu.
Isiko lokucindezela: umkhuba wokucindezela itiye libe izinkwa nezitini ngokomlando uhlobene nokulula kokuthutha emigwaqweni yasezintabeni.

Itiye elicindezelwe lase-Yunnan lalihamba amakhulu eminyaka ngalokho okubizwa ngokuthi uMguqo Wetiye Nawehhashi (茶马古道, chámǎ gǔdào) — inethiwekhi yezindlela zezohwebo ezazihlanganisa izindawo ezikhiqiza itiye neTibet, i-China yangaphakathi, kanye namazwe angomakhelwane. Ukuthuthwa isikhathi eside nokuvuthwa kwemvelo yikhona okwabumba umqondo wokuthi i-pu’er iyathuthuka ngokuhamba kwesikhathi.

Umqondo ‘wetiye lezihlahla ezindala’ wazuza ukubaluleka kwezentengiso ikakhulukazi kusukela ngawo-2000, lapho isithakazelo ezintweni ezingavuthiwe ezivela ezihlahleni ezinemizimba emide sakhula ngokuqhathaniswa namasimende aminyene. Amagama endawo afana ne-Banha ayavela futhi aqiniswa ncamashi ngalesi sikhathi njengendlela yokukhomba imvelaphi eqondile yezinto, nakuba amaningi awo ahlala engaziwa kangako ngaphandle kwemakethe ekhethekile.

3. Incazelo Yesayensi Yezitshalo Nezinto Ezingavuthiwe:

Izinhlobo: Camellia sinensis var. assamica, inhlobonhlobo yamahlamvu amakhulu esitshalo setiye
Indlela yokukhula: isihlahla noma isihlahla esincane (乔木, qiáomù / 小乔木, xiǎoqiáomù), ngokuphambene nezihlahla ezicutshwayo emasimendeni
Iqabunga: likhulu, linesikhumba, linemithambo evezwe kahle kanye nomphetho onamazinyo
Izinga lokukha: ngokuvamile ihlumela elinamacembe amabili noma amathathu (一芽二叶, yīyá èryè / 一芽三叶, yīyá sānyè)

Igama elithi ‘izihlahla ezindala’ (老树, lǎoshù) emikhubeni yase-Yunnan lichaza izihlahla ezineminyaka ebonakalayo nokuphakama, ezikhula ngokukhululeka kunamahlumela asemasimendeni, kodwa ezingahlukaniswa ngabathengisi esigabeni ‘sezasendulo’ (古树, gǔshù). Imingcele yale mibono ayigxilile ngezinga eliqinile futhi ngokuvamile inqunywa isiko lendawo ethile kanye nobuqotho bomkhiqizi. Izinto ezingavuthiwe ezivela ezihlahleni ezindala ziyathandwa ngenxa yesistimu yezimpande ethuthuke kakhudlwana, ukugcwala okuphelele kokuqukethwe okuyikhiphayo kokumnika, kanye nokuzinza ekuphawuleni okuphindaphindiwe.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokulima:

Isimo sendawo nobude: imithambeka yezintaba yase-Yunnan, ububanzi obujwayelekile besifunda sase-Menghai cishe 1000–1800 m ngaphezu kogu lolwandle
Imhlabathi: i-laterite ebomvu-ephuzi, ekhipha amanzi kahle
Isimo sezulu: i-subtropical monsoon, enokuhlukaniswa okucacile kwezikhathi ezinomswakama nezomileyo, inani elikhulu lenkungu, kanye nomehluko ophawulekayo wamazinga okushisa emini nasebusuku
Indawo ekhuliswa kuyo: izihlahla ezindala zivame ukukhula ehlathini elixubile noma ekutshalweni okuhlakazekile, ngokungenelela okuncane komuntu

Izindawo eziphakeme, inkungu, kanye nokukhanya kwelanga okuphakathi kunciphisa ukukhula kwamahlumela, okusiza ekunqwabelaneni kwezingxenye zamakha nokunambitheka eqabungeni. Ukukhiwa kwentwasahlobo (春茶, chūnchá) kubhekwa njengokuyigugu kakhulu, okukhiwa ngemuva kokunqwabelana kwesitshalo kwezakhamzimba ngesikhathi esomileyo. Izihlahla ezindala, njengomthetho, aziniselwa futhi azifakwa umquba ngenkani, okwenza isivuno sazo sincike kakhulu esimweni sezulu sonyaka othile.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

Ukukha (采摘, cǎizhāi): ukukha ngesandla kwamahlumela amancane
Ukusunduza nokubuna (摊晾, tānliàng): iqabunga liyandlalwa ukuze kulahleke ingxenye yomswakama
Ukulungiswa kokuluhlaza (杀青, shāqīng): ukushiswa ekhazaneni; kwenziwa ngokuthamba kunetiye eliluhlaza, ukuze kugcinwe ingxenye yama-enzyme
Ukusonteka (揉捻, róuniǎn): ukubunjwa kweqabunga nokukhululwa kojusi
Ukukomiswa elangeni (晒干, shàigān): ukutholakala ‘kwe-maocha’ — izinto ezingavuthiwe ezikomiswe elangeni (晒青毛茶, shàiqīng máochá)
Ukufuthelwa ngesitimu nokucindezela (蒸压, zhēngyā): ukubunjwa kwezinkwa, izitini, noma ‘izidleke’
Ukukomiswa nokupakishwa: ukukomiswa kancane kwemikhiqizo esiqedile

Isici esibalulekile se-sheng pu’er ukuthi ukulungiswa kokuluhlaza kwenziwa ezingeni elincane lokungasebenzi kwama-enzyme kunetiye eliluhlaza, futhi ukukomiswa kwenzeka elangeni, hhayi ngomoya oshisayo (烘青, hōngqīng) noma ekhazaneni (炒青, chǎoqīng). Ngenxa yalokhu, etiyeni esiqedile kugcinwa amandla okuvuthwa okunensa ngendlela yemvelo. Ngokuphambene ne-shu (熟) pu’er esiqedile, i-shengcha ayidluli esigabeni senqwaba emanzi (渥堆, wòduī) futhi ivuthwa ngokwemvelo.

6. Izimpawu Zokuqonda Ngezitho Zomzimba:

Iqabunga elomile: liluhlaza okotshani okumnyama ngemibala e-olive-ithuthukile, amaqabunga amakhulu asonteke, ngokuvamile anamahlumela akhanyayo
Umbala wokumnika: etiyeni elisha — kusagolide okukhanyayo ngokuluhlaza okuncane; ngeminyaka yokugcinwa kuya ngokujula kusagolide obomvu
Iphunga: izimbali-noju, amanothi ezithelo ezomile, amakhambi asezintabeni; etiyeni elisha kukhona ukusha ‘okuluhlaza’ okunakalayo, etiyeni elivuthiwe kuvela amathoni okhuni nawe-camphor
Ukunambitheka: umzimba oqinile, ‘ojiyile’ (厚, hòu), ukubaba kokuqala (苦, kǔ) nokuklebhukana astringency (涩, sè), okuguquka ngokuqhathaniseka ngokushesha kube ubumnandi
Ukunambitheka okusemva: ukubuya okuhlaba umxhwele kobumnandi (回甘, huígān) nokukhiqizwa kwamathe (生津, shēngjīn); ezintweni ezingavuthiwe ezinhle kuyinkomba ‘yamandla etiye’ (茶气, cháqì)

Etiyeni lezihlahla ezindala, ukuzinza kokunambitheka ngokuphisa okuphindaphindiwe nokujula okukhulu kokunambitheka okusemva kuyinkomba uma kuqhathaniswa nezinto ezingavuthiwe zasemasimendeni. Ngokuhamba kweminyaka, ukumnika kuba mnene, ukubaba kuhlehla, futhi iphrofayili ishintshela emathonini afudumele ezithelo nezokhuni.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali:

Ama-polyphenol etiye (茶多酚, cháduōfēn): enhlobonhlobweni yamahlamvu amakhulu, ingxenye yawo, njengomthetho, iphezulu kunasezinhlobonhlobweni zamahlamvu amancane
Ama-catechin (儿茶素, érchásù): umthombo oyinhloko wokuklebhukana nokubaba
I-caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēijiǎn): inikeza umphumela wokuvuselela
Ama-amino acid, i-theanine (茶氨酸, chá’ānsuān): abumba ‘umami’ namanothi amnandi
Ama-polysaccharide nezinto ezingumbala: zibamba iqhaza ekubunjweni komzimba wokumnika nombala wawo

Ngokuya kuqhubeka isikhathi sokugcinwa, ama-polyphenol ancipha kancane futhi ashintshe, okuqukethwe kwama-catechin akhululekile kuyancipha, okwenza ukuthi kwi-sheng evuthiwe ukubaba kunciphe, ukumnika kube mnyama, nephunga lishintshe. Amazinga athile ancike kakhulu onyakeni, indawo yokukha, nezimo zokugcinwa, ngakho-ke akulungile ukunikeza izibalo eziqondile ngeqembu elithile.

8. Izakhiwo Eziwusizo:

Umphumela wokuvuselela: udalwa yi-caffeine, enikeza ukuqabuleka nokucaca
Amandla e-antioxidant: ahlobene nokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwama-polyphenol
Imibono yesintu: emikhubeni yase-China, i-sheng pu’er ivame ukuphuzwa ngemuva kokudla okusindayo noma okunamafutha, kuhlanganiswe nomqondo wokukhanya

Kufanele kubhekwe ukuthi i-sheng esencane inothile ngama-polyphenol ne-caffeine futhi esiswini esingenalutho ingaba lukhuni, ibangele ukungaphatheki kahle noma ukuvuka. Itiye elivuthiwe ngokuvamile lithamba ngalobu bubanzi. Ulwazi olunikeziwe lungolwejwayelekile futhi alusona iseluleko sezokwelapha; ezifweni ezingapheli, ukuqapha kufanele.

9. Ukuphisa:

Isitsha: i-gaiwan (盖碗, gàiwǎn) noma iketela le-Yixing (紫砂壶, zǐshāhú); i-porcelain ne-gaiwan kuhle kakhulu ukuhlola iphunga nezici ezincane
Amanzi: athambile, anamaminerali aphansi
Izinga lokushisa: etiyeni lezihlahla ezindala 95–100 °C; kwi-sheng esencane nelukhuni kungenzeka kwehliselwe cishe ku-90 °C, ukunciphisa ukubaba
Ukuphakamisa: cishe 6–8 g ku-100–150 ml ngendlela ye-proliv; ukuphisa okulula emthamo omkhulu — kancane
Ukuhlambulula (润茶, rùnchá / 洗茶, xǐchá): ukuthulula okufushane imizuzwana engu-5–10, okuthululwa
Ama-proliv: ukuphisa kokuqala kufushane (cishe imizuzwana engu-5–10), ngokulandelayo isikhathi sinyuswe kancane kancane; izinto ezingavuthiwe ezisezingeni eliphezulu zimelana nama-proliv ayi-10–15 nangaphezulu

Indlela ye-gongfu enama-proliv amancane avamile, afushane yiyona ewuvezwa kahle kakhulu amandla okunambitheka: ukushintsha kokubaba kuya ebumnandi, ukuthuthuka kokunambitheka okusemva ‘namandla etiye’. Iqabunga elinikele ngokupheleleyo letiye elivuthiwe, uma lifunwa, lingaphekwa futhi eketeleni.

10. Ukugcinwa:

Izimo: indawo eyomile, enomoya ohambahambayo ngaphandle kwephunga langaphandle, kude nokukhanya okuqondile nemithombo yokushisa
Umswakama: ophakathi, cishe 55–70%; ukomisa ngokweqile kubambezela ukuvuthwa, umswakama oweqile uholela esikhuntaneni
Isitsha: ukupakishwa okungangeni komoya; ipulasitiki evaleke ngokuphelele ayilungele ukugcinwa kwe-sheng isikhathi eside
Isitayela sokugcina: ‘indlu eyomile’ (干仓, gāncāng) inikeza ukuvuthwa okuhlanzekile, okubikezelakalayo futhi iyathandeka ngokuqhathaniswa ‘nendlu enomswakama’ (湿仓, shīcāng)

I-sheng pu’er ingeiqembu lamatiye agcinwa ngenhloso yokuvuthwa: ngokuhamba kweminyaka, ukubaba kuyancipha, ukumnika kuya kuba mnyama, futhi iphrofayili iba ngajulile futhi ifudumale. Ukuzinza kwezimo kubaluleke ngaphezu ‘kokuphelela’ kwazo — ukushintshashintsha okukhulu kwezinga lokushisa nomswakama kulimaza itiye kakhulu kunesimo sezulu esihluke ngokulingene enkambisweni, kodwa esingaguquki.

11. Intengo Nemikhiqizo Yomgunyathi:

Izinga lentengo: i-Banha ingelinye lamagama amancane aziwayo, ngakho-ke leli tiye ngokuvamile lisesigabeni esiphakathi sentengo futhi lishibhe kakhulu kunezindawo ezikhangisiwe ezifana ne-Laobanzhang (老班章, Lǎobānzhāng), i-Bingdao (冰岛, Bīngdǎo), noma i-Yiwu (易武, Yìwǔ). Izindleko eziqondile zincike kakhulu onyakeni, izinga lokukhiwa, nomthengisi, ngakho-ke kulungile ukubheka njengebubanzi, hhayi inani eligxilile.

Ingcuphe enkulu ihlobene hhayi kangako nokwenziwa komgunyathi oqondile wohlobo olwaziwayo, kodwa nokukhukhumaliswa kwesigaba sezinto ezingavuthiwe. Igama elithi ‘izihlahla ezindala’ (老树) alinayo incazelo eqinile yomthetho, futhi ngaphansi kwalo kuvame ukuthengiswa itiye lasemasimendeni (台地茶, táidìchá) noma izingxube ezinengxenye encane yezinto ezikhethiwe. Ukushintshwa kwemvelaphi nakho kuyenzeka: izinto ezingavuthiwe ezivela ezindaweni ezingomakhelwane zethulwa njengezendawo ethile.

Izinkomba zokuhlola:

Umzimba nokunambitheka okusemva: itiye langempela lezihlahla ezindala linikeza ukumnika oqinile, ukubuya okujulile nokude kobumnandi, ukuzinza kuma-proliv amaningi; umlingisi wasemasimendeni ubaba ngokushesha ngaphandle kokuguquka futhi ‘uphelelwa umoya’ ngemuva kokuphisa okumbalwa.
Iqabunga eliphekiwe: amaqabunga amakhulu, aqinile futhi anwebekayo anamathambo aqhakazile — uphawu oluhle; iqabunga elaphukayo, elincane, futhi elisikwe ngokufanayo liyasolisayo.
Ukuqonda okuphusile entengweni: itiye ‘lezihlahla ezindala’ elishibhe ngokusolisayo cishe alinjalo.
Umthombo: abathengisi abanemvelaphi esobala yamaqembu nethuba lokunambitha itiye ngaphambi kokuthenga bayathandeka.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

Isigaba sezinto ezingavuthiwe: imiqondo yezentengiso ethi ‘eyasemasimendeni’ (台地), ‘izihlahla ezinkulu’ (大树, dàshù), ‘izihlahla ezindala’ (老树), kanye ‘nezihlahla zasendulo’ (古树) yakhiwe ngokobudala nobunjalo bokumila, kodwa ayimisiwe futhi ihunyushwa ngendlela ehlukile ngabathengisi.
I-sheng ngokumelene ne-shu: i-pu’er eluhlaza livuthwa ngokwemvelo iminyaka, kanti i-shu (熟) pu’er esiqedile itholakala emavikini ambalwa ngosizo lwenqwaba emanzi (渥堆).
Isisindo 357 g: ifomethi yesinkwa yendabuko ihlobene nokupakishwa komlando ‘kwezinkwa eziyisikhombisa’ (七子饼, qīzǐbǐng) enqwabeni eyodwa ‘i-ton’ (筒, tǒng).
Indima yokukomiswa elangeni: ukukomiswa elangeni (晒青) yikhona okwehlukanisa izinto ezingavuthiwe ze-pu’er kwamanye amatiye aluhlaza futhi kugcine ikhono lokuqhubeka nokuvuthwa.
Ukuncika esimweni sezulu: isivuno sezihlahla ezindala ezinganiseli sinyikinyika ngokubonakalayo unyaka nonyaka, ngenxa yalokho itiye elifanayo lokukhiwa okuhlukile lingahluka ngokubonakalayo ngomlingiswa.

Ekuphetheni:

I-Banha laoshu shengcha ingummeleli womndeni obanzi wama-sheng pu’er ase-Yunnan, inani lawo linganqunywa yigama elikhulu, kodwa inhlanganisela yezinto ezingavuthiwe zezihlahla ezindala, inhlobonhlobo yamahlamvu amakhulu, nobuchwepheshe obuyisiko bokukomiswa elangeni. Ngokuphisa ngokucophelela, ivuleka ngokumnika oqinile, ukubaba okuphilayo okushintshela ebumnandi, kanye nephunga ‘lezintaba’ eliyingcaca, futhi ngokugcinwa okulungile iyakwazi ukushintsha futhi ijule unyaka nonyaka.

Ukusondela etiyeni elinjalo kuhle ngaphandle kokulindela okukhulu, kodwa ngokunaka imininingwane: hlola imvelaphi nesigaba sezinto ezingavuthiwe, hlaziya umzimba nokunambitheka okusemva enkomishini, hhayi nje umbhalo osembophweni. Ngokuyiqiniso, kungamagama amancane aziwayo, afana ne-Banha, lapho kuvame khona ukutholakala isilinganiso esithembekile sekhwalithi nentengo — ngaphansi kombandela wokuthi umthengi ubheka ukunambitheka kwetiye, hhayi izindlela zokumaketha.

the teas described here are available from teamotea