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IMenghai (勐海, Měnghǎi) iyisifunda esiseningizimu-ntshonalanga yesifundazwe saseYunnan (云南, Yúnnán), esiyingxenye yeSizwe Esizimele SaseXishuangbanna samaDai (西双版纳傣族自治州, Xīshuāngbǎnnà Dǎizú Zìzhìzhōu), futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo yigama elihlanganisayo lama-pu’er avela kule ndawo. IMenghai ibhekwa njengenye yezikhungo eziwumgogodla zokukhiqiza i-pu’er (普洱茶, pǔ’ěrchá) futhi iyindawo okwavela kuyo izintaba zetiye eziningi ezidumile kanye nezigodi. Yilapha lapho kwasungulwa khona iMenghai Tea Factory (勐海茶厂, Měnghǎi Cháchǎng) ngo-1940, okwaphakamisa uphawu lweDayi (大益, Dàyì), kanti indawo yakhona yamagciwane yabumba umqondo we-”menghai flavour” eyisilinganiso (勐海味, Měnghǎiwèi). Isikhundla se-”sheng pu long zhu menghai” yi-sheng pu’er (生普, shēngpǔ, i-pu’er “eluhlaza”) evela ezintweni zokusetshenziswa zaseMenghai, ecindezelwe ngesandla yaba amabhola amancane “amagugu kadrako” (龙珠, lóngzhū), aklanyelwe ukuphuzwa kanye.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

Uhlobo: i-pu’er (普洱茶, pǔ’ěrchá), isigaba esingaphansi — i-pu’er eluhlaza (i-sheng) (生茶, shēngchá).
Isimo: “amagugu kadrako” (龙珠, lóngzhū) — amabhola acindezelwe ngesandla anesisindo esicishe sibe ngu-5–8 g ngalinye.
Imvelaphi: isifunda iMenghai, iSizwe Esizimele SaseXishuangbanna samaDai, isifundazwe saseYunnan, iChina.
Izinto zokusetshenziswa: i-shaiqing maocha (晒青毛茶, shàiqīng máochá) — umkhiqizo osawolintshu owomiswe elangeni ovela etiyeni elinamahlamvu amakhulu laseYunnan.

Ngokwezinga lesiqondiso sendawo yaseChina i-GB/T 22111-2008 “地理标志产品普洱茶”, i-pu’er itiye elikhiqizwa ngaphakathi kwendawo evikelekile yaseYunnan kusetshenziswa izinto zetiye elinamahlamvu amakhulu laseYunnan (云南大叶种, Yúnnán dàyèzhǒng), elomiswe elangeni. IMenghai ingena ngokuphelele kule ndawo. I-Pu’er ihlukaniswa ibe yi-sheng (生茶, shēngchá) kanye ne-shu evuthiwe/ye-shu (熟茶, shúchá); itiye elicatshangelwayo lingaphansi kohlobo oluluhlaza futhi ligcina ikhono lokuvuthwa kwemvelo isikhathi eside.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Indima yomlando: IMenghai yayitholakala emagatsheni e-Chama Gudao (茶马古道, Chámǎ Gǔdào), ehlanganisa iYunnan neTibet kanye nezifundazwe zangaphakathi; ukuhamba kalula kwetiye elicindezelwe kwaqinisa kakhulu isiko lezinhlobo zetiye ezicindezelwe.
1940: ukusungulwa kweMenghai Tea Factory, ekuqaleni eyayibizwa ngeFohai Tea Factory (佛海茶厂, Fóhǎi Cháchǎng) — enye yezimboni zetiye ezindala kunazo zonke ezisebenza eYunnan.
Iminyaka yawo-1970: ukwenziwa ngcono kwe-”wet piling” (渥堆, wòduī) ukuze kuvuthwane i-shu pu’er ngokushesha, lapho iMenghai factory yadlala enye yezindima ezihamba phambili.
Uphawu lweDayi (大益, Dàyì): lwavela eMenghai factory; izindlela zokupheka zokuhlanganisa ezijwayelekile ezingama-7542 (eluhlaza) kanye nama-7572 (avuthiwe) zaba izikhombi-ndlela zemboni.

Umqondo we-”menghai flavour” (勐海味, Měnghǎiwèi) waqala ngokugxila etiyeni elivuthiwe futhi uhlotshaniswa nendawo eqinile yamagciwane yezindawo zokukhiqiza zendawo, nakuba izinto zokusetshenziswa zesifunda nazo zibalulekile ngenxa yamandla nobunjalo bazo. Kubaqoqi abaningi kanye nabathengisi, igama elithi “Menghai” lisebenza njengesikhombi sesitayela setiye esiminyene, esinamandla, kanti izigodi ezingaphansi kwesifunda zibhekwa njengama-terroir azimele, abalulekile.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo kanye Nezinto Zokusetshenziswa:

Izinhlobo: isihlahla setiye se-assamica (Camellia sinensis var. assamica), ngokwesiko lamaShayina — itiye elinamahlamvu amakhulu (大叶种, dàyèzhǒng).
Inani labantu: itiye laseMenghai elinamahlamvu amakhulu (勐海大叶种, Měnghǎi dàyèzhǒng) — inani labantu elikhethiwe lendawo.
Izinhlobo zokutshala: izihlahla zakudala (古树, gǔshù), kanye namahlumela amasimu (台地, táidì).

Iqabunga elikhulu lezinhlobo ze-assamica libonakala ngokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwama-polyphenol kanye nezinto ezikhishwayo, okubeka ukugcwala namandla okuguga kwe-pu’er yesikhathi esizayo. Izinto zokusetshenziswa ziyahlukahluka ngobudala kanye nemvelaphi yezihlahla: itiye elivela ezihlahleni zakudala libaluleke kakhulu kunelasemhlanganweni ngenxa yokunambitheka okujulile kanye nokunambitheka okuhlala isikhathi eside, kodwa ngokuqondile kunzima ukuhlukanisa phakathi kwazo ngokubukeka “kwegugu” eliqediwe.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokutshala:

Izixhumanisi: cishe 21°28′–22°28′ N futhi 99°56′–100°41′ E; isifunda sinomngcele neMyanmar.
Ukuphakama: kusuka cishe ku-535 kuye ku-2429 m ngaphezu kogu lolwandle (iphoyinti eliphakeme kakhulu yiHuazhu Liangzi, 滑竹梁子, Huázhú Liángzi); izingadi zetiye eziningi zitholakala ku-1000–1800 m.
Isimo sezulu: i-subtropical-tropical monsoon, izinga lokushisa lonyaka cishe ngu-18 °C, imvula yonyaka icishe ibe ngu-1300–1400 mm.

Inhlanganisela yokuphakama, inkungu, kanye nezinkathi ezicacile zomswakama nezomileyo kudala izimo zokuqoqwa kwezinto ezinambitheka nephunga elimnandi kancane. Ngaphakathi kwesifunda, kugqanyiswa uchungechunge lwezintaba nezindawo ezidumile yetiye:

Ama-terroir abalulekile: IBulangshan (布朗山, Bùlǎng Shān) inezigodi iLaobanzhang (老班章, Lǎobānzhāng) neXinbanzhang (新班章, Xīnbānzhāng), iNannuoshan (南糯山, Nánnuò Shān), iHekai (贺开, Hèkāi), iMengsong (勐宋, Měngsòng), iBada (巴达, Bādá), iMenghun (勐混, Měnghùn).

Isitayela sezinto zokusetshenziswa siyahluka kakhulu ngokwama-terroir: itiye laseBulangshan, futhi ikakhulukazi iLaobanzhang, laziwa ngokubaba okugqamile kanye nokubuya okunoshukela okunamandla, kanti iNannuoshan neHekai zivame ukukhiqiza iphrofayili ethambile, enephunga elimnandi.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

Ukuvuna: ama-flush ahlanganisa ihlumela namaqabunga amancane enkathini yasentwasahlobo-ekwindla.
Ukubuna (萎凋, wěidiāo): ukuvumela iqabunga elisha ukuthi libune ukuze kwehliswe umswakama.
Ukuqinisa uhlaza (杀青, shāqīng): ukushisisa epanini ukuze kumiswe ukuvutshelwa; kwe-pu’er kwenziwa ngezinga lokushisa elilinganiselwe ukuze kulondolozwe umsebenzi wokuvuthwa okulandelayo.
Ukusonga (揉捻, róuniǎn): ukubumba iqabunga nokukhulula amajusi.
Ukomiswa elangeni (晒青, shàiqīng): ukomisa elangeni ukuthola i-shaiqing maocha.
Ukubunjwa “kwegugu”: i-maocha iyashiswa kancane ukuze ithambe bese igoqwa ngesandla ibe amabhola aminyene, bese yomiswa.

Umehluko “wamagugu kadrako” kumakhreyithi nama-tuo usekubunjweni ngesandla kwezabelo ezincane. Ukugoqwa okuminyene kwebhola kubambezela ukufinyelela kwamanzi, ngakho iqabunga liyavuleka kancane, kanti ukwabiwa ngezabelo kwenza kube lula ukukala isilinganiso. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ingqikithi yobuchwepheshe ihlala ifana: yi-sheng pu’er ecindezelwe evela ezintweni zokusetshenziswa ezomiswe elangeni zaseYunnan.

6. Izimpawu Zokunambitheka Nephunga:

Iqabunga elomile: amacembe agoqiwe aluhlaza okumnyama anamahlumela asiliva, ahlanganiswe ebholeni eliminyene.
Ukuminywa: kusuka kokuphuzi okuphaphathekile kuye kokuphuzi okusagolide etiyeni elincane, kufiphala ngeminyaka yokuguga.
Iphunga: izimbali-noju, etiyeni elincane elinezici eziluhlaza, ezifana notshani nezithelo.
Ukunambitheka: okugcwele futhi kuminyene, nokubaba okuzwakalayo (苦, kǔ) nokubamba (涩, sè), ikakhulukazi ezintweni zokusetshenziswa zohlobo lwe-Bulang.
Ukunambitheka ngemva: ukubuya okunoshukela okuvezwayo (回甘, huígān) kanye nokukhiqizwa kwamathe (生津, shēngjīn), okuhlala isikhathi eside futhi kuqinile.

I-sheng yaseMenghai encane yaziswa ngaphezu kwakho konke ngamandla kanye “nobukhona” bokuminywa. Ngeminyaka yokuguga, ukubaba nokubamba kuyathamba, ukunambitheka kugxile kakhulu emthonjeni wezici zoju, izithelo ezomisiwe kanye nezinkuni, futhi umbala wokuminywa ujula ube yi-amber. Kungamandla alokhu kuguquka okuhlukanisa i-sheng pu’er etiyeni eliluhlaza.

7. Ukwakhika Kwamakhemikhali:

Ama-polyphenol etiye (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): okuqukethwe okuphezulu, okuvamile ezinhlotsheni ezinamahlamvu amakhulu; ezintweni zokusetshenziswa ezintsha ngokuvamile kudlula ama-30%.
Ama-catechin (儿茶素, érchásù): iqembu eliyinhloko lama-polyphenol, elibanga ukubaba, ukubamba, kanye nomsebenzi wokulwa nokuxineka.
I-caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēijiǎn): cishe 3–5%.
Ama-amino acid (氨基酸, ānjīsuān), kuhlanganise ne-theanine (茶氨酸, chá’ānsuān): akha ubuthambile kanye “nokunambitheka okumnandi” (umami), okulinganisela ukubaba.

Njengoba ukuvuthwa kwemvelo kuqhubeka, ama-polyphenol ancipha kancane futhi aguqulwe ngokwengxenye, ngenxa yalokho ubukhali bokubaba nokubamba buyehla, kanti izici zokunambitheka ziba yindilinga ngokwengeziwe. Lokhu kuchaza umkhuba wokugcinwa isikhathi eside kwe-sheng pu’er.

8. Izakhiwo Ezinempilo:

Ukuqinisa amandla: i-caffeine nama-polyphenol anomphumela ovuselelayo.
Ukusekela ukugayeka kokudla: i-pu’er ngokwesiko iphuzwa ngemva kokudla okuwugqinsi nokunamafutha.
Amandla okulwa nokuxineka: ahlotshaniswa nokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwama-catechin.

Izici eziveziwe ziwumgomo ojwayelekile futhi azithathi indawo yokwelulekwa kwezokwelapha. I-sheng encane ibonakala ngamandla nokubaba okuzwakalayo, ngakho abantu abanesisu esibucayi abanconywa ukuyiphuza esiswini esingenalutho noma ekugxiliseni okuphezulu.

9. Ukuphisa:

Izitsha: i-gaiwan (盖碗, gàiwǎn) noma i-Yixing teapot (紫砂壶, zǐshāhú) enomthamo ongu-100–150 ml, kanye nenkomishi yokulinganisa (公道杯, gōngdàobēi) yokuthela.
Isilinganiso: igugu elilodwa (5–8 g) nge-100–150 ml amanzi.
Izinga lokushisa lamanzi: 95–100 °C.
Ukuwasha: ukuwasha okukodwa okufushane (imizuzwana engu-5–10), okuthi ngesikhathi esifanayo kusize igugu ukuthi liqale ukuvuleka.
Ukuthelelwa: okokuqala okumbalwa ukuthelelwa kufushane, imizuzwana engu-5–15, kukhuliswe kancane kancane; izinto ezinamandla zokusetshenziswa zikwazi ukumelana nokuthelelwa okuningi.

Isici esingokoqobo “segugu”: ibhola eligoqwe liminyene alivuleki ngokushesha, ngakho ukuthelelwa okukodwa noma okubili kokuqala kungaphuma kulula uma kuqhathaniswa, kanti ukugcwala kokunambitheka kufika njengoba iqabunga lisakazeka. Uma umuntu efuna ukusheshisa ukuvuleka, angavumela igugu ukuthi lihlale lisemanzini okwashwa ngaphansi kwesivalo se-gaiwan imizuzwana engamashumi ambalwa.

10. Ukugcinwa:

Izimo: indawo eyomile, enomoya, engenaphunga angaphandle, kude nelanga eliqondile.
Umswakama nezinga lokushisa: umswakama olinganiselayo ozinzile (cishe 50–70%) nokungabikho kwezinguquko ezinqala; umswakama owedlulele uholela engcupheni yesikhunta.
Isiqukathi: ukupakishwa okuvumela umoya; akwamukelekile ukuhlala eceleni kwezinongo, izimonyo, kanye namakhemikhali asekhaya.

I-sheng pu’er yakhelwe ukuvuthwa iminyaka eminingi, lapho ukunambitheka kuthamba khona kancane futhi kujule. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, amagugu amancane anendawo enkulu yokuthintana nomoya ngeyunithi ngayinye yesisindo uma kuqhathaniswa nendawo eminyene ephakathi kwekhreyithi, ngakho kufanele kuqashelwe kakhulu isimo sezulu esincane sokugcina kanye nokupakishwa ukuze kugwemwe ukoma ngokweqile noma ukufumala.

11. Intengo kanye Nokwenziwa Ngamampunge:

Ububanzi bentengo:* “IMenghai” iyisifunda esibanzi, ngakho izindleko ziyahlukahluka kusuka kokufinyeleleka ngentengo ezintweni ezijwayelekile zokusetshenziswa zokutshala kuye phezulu etiyeni elivela ezigodini ezidumile.

Ama-terroir aphambili: izinto zokusetshenziswa zaseLaobanzhang kanye nezinye izigodi ezaziwayo ezivela ezihlahleni zakudala zibiza ngokuphindwe kaningi kunesilinganiso futhi okwenziwa ngamampunge kakhulu.
Ifomethi yokuthengisa: “amagugu” athengiswa ngamunye noma ngesisindo; isisindo esimisiwe segugu silungele ukulawula isabelo.

Izindlela ezijwayelekile zokwenza ngamampunge — ukunamathisela imvelaphi yesigodi esidumile ezintweni zokusetshenziswa ezijwayelekile, ukuthengisa amahlumela amasimu (台地) sengathi itiye lezihlahla zakudala (古树), kanye nokudlulisa izinto zokusetshenziswa ezivela ngaphandle kwesifunda njengezaseMenghai. E-”gugwini” elicindezelwe kunzima ukuhlola iqabunga langempela, okwenza kube lula ukukhohlisa. Izikhombi-ndlela zomthengi: idumela lomthengisi kanye nokwenza obala kwekhono lokuhlinzeka, ukwanela kwentengo (i-”Laobanzhang” eshibhe kakhulu cishe ayilona), kanye nokuhlolwa kwezinzwa — inhlanganisela yamandla, ukubaba, kanye nokubuya okunoshukela okuqinile kwezinto zokusetshenziswa zangempela ze-Bulang. Okuthembeke kakhulu ukuthenga kubahlinzeki abathenjwayo, hhayi ukugxila kuphela egameni elinomsindo.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

Imboni eyinganekwane: iMenghai Tea Factory (eyasungulwa ngo-1940) kanye nophawu lweDayi olwavela kuyo kuphakathi kwamagama anethonya kakhulu emhlabeni we-pu’er.
Ukufakwa kwekhodi yezindlela zokupheka: kumakhodi afana no-7542, amadijithi amabili okuqala akhombisa unyaka wendlela yokupheka, elesithathu — izinga leqabunga elinegunya, elesine — ikhodi yemboni (idijithi elingu-2 lihambisana neMenghai factory).
Izihlahla zakudala: isihlahla setiye sasendle entabeni iBada (巴达, Bādá) sasilinganiselwa cishe eminyakeni eyi-1700 futhi sawa ngo-2012; eNannuoshan (南糯山, Nánnuò Shān) isizukulwane samaHani (哈尼族, Hānízú) sasihlala isikhathi eside, kanti eBulangshan — amaBulang (布朗族, Bùlǎngzú).
I-mosaic ye-terroir: izigodi ezingomakhelwane zesifunda sinye zikwazi ukukhiqiza itiye elinamandla nephunga elihluke ngokusobala, okwenza iMenghai ibe yindawo yokuqeqesha ekahle yezinto zokuqhathanisa ukunambitheka.

Ekuphetheni:

IMenghai ngesikhathi esifanayo iyikheli lendawo kanye nesikhombi sesitayela: ngaphansi kwaleli gama kuqondwa kokubili isifunda esithile saseYunnan nezintaba zaso ezidumile, kanye nengxenye yama-pu’er aminyene, azwakalayo. Ifomethi “yamagugu kadrako” idlulisela leli fa emhlabeni kwisimo esilungele ukwabiwa ngezabelo, sigcina ingqikithi ye-sheng pu’er — ukunambitheka okugcwele kwetiye elincane kanye namandla okuvuthwa iminyaka eminingi.

Ukwenzela umkhuba, kuwusizo ukukhumbula ukuthi elithi “Menghai” kulebula likhuluma ngesifunda, kodwa aliqinisekisi imvelaphi yesigodi esithile esidumile. Indlela ephusile — ukuhlola itiye ngokunambitheka nangokwethenjwa komthombo, nokusebenzisa ifomethi “yegugu” ngenhloso yalo: njengesabelo esilula sokuphisa ngokucophelela ku-gaiwan, kunikeza ithuba lokubuka ngokuthula ukuthi ibhola eliminyene livuleka kancane kancane kusuka ekuphiseni kuya ekuphiseni.

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