Gǔshù, dàshù, yěshēng, táidì

Emhlabeni we-puer (普洱 pǔ’ěr) asikho isici esibaluleke ngaphezulu — futhi esinokukhwabanisa okukhulu — kuneminyaka nendabuko yesihlahla setiye. Le eksisi inquma intengo nedumela lezinto ezingavuthiwe ngamandla ukudlula isifunda noma unyaka, ikakhulukazi esigabeni se-sheng-puer (生普 shēng pǔ).

Kungani iminyaka yesihlahla kuyi-eksisi, hhayi uhlobo

Ngaphambi kokuqonda amagama, kubalulekile ukubona isakhiwo salo mbuzo. Iminyaka yesihlahla nohlobo lokulinywa akuzona izinhlobo ezihlukile zetiye futhi akuzona izigaba ezizimele ngokomoya othi ‘oluhlaza ngokumelene nobomvu’. Lokhu kuyi-eksisi yekhwalithi nentengo engena kukho konke, uphawu (ithegi) olubekwa kunoma yiziphi izinto ezingavuthiwe ezivela entabeni ethile noma esigodini. I-terroir efanayo ingaveza izinto zezigaba ‘zobudala’ ezihlukile, futhi yingakho amarejista esigodi e-puer ekhomba u-树龄 (shùlíng, iminyaka yesihlahla) yawo wonke umthombo.

Le eksisi ingena ngokuyinhloko ku-sheng-puer, kodwa ithinta nangokuqondile i-shu-puer (熟普 shú pǔ), esisekelo sayo okuyizinto eziningi zokulinywa kwamapulazi.

Izigaba ezine ngokweminyaka yesihlahla

Umkhuba waseShayina wakha isigaba esisuka ezihlahleni ezindala zasehlathini kuya ezihlahleni ezincane zasemapulazini. Imingcele phakathi kwezigaba ayicacile futhi ilawulwa ukuvumelana kwemakethe kunokuba ibe yizinga eliqinile, kodwa umqondo uzinzile.

古树茶 (gǔshù chá, ‘itiye lezihlahla ezindala’). Isiqongo sesigaba. Kubhekiselwa ezihlahleni ezineminyaka eyikhulu noma ngaphezulu, ezikhula ezingadini ezindala noma ezindaweni eziyihlane. Lokhu ngu-乔木 (qiáomù) — izihlahla ezinesiqu eside nezimpande ezijulile. Kukholakala ukuthi yimpande ejulile nokuvuthwa kwesitshalo okunikeza ukumnandi oqinile, onezingqimba eziningi kanye nokunambitheka kwangemuva okuhlala isikhathi eside. Lesi yisigaba se-premium, futhi yisona okugxilwe kuso kakhulu ukukhwabanisa kwentengo.

大树茶 (dàshù chá, ‘itiye lezihlahla ezinkulu’). Izihlahla ezivuthiwe, kodwa ezincane kune-古树. Isigaba esimaphakathi: akusewona amapulazi, kodwa akukona futhi okudala okuqinisekisiwe. Umngcele ophakathi kwe-大树 ne-古树 yiwona oyimpikiswano kakhulu futhi osengozini enkulu yokusetshenziswa kabi ekumakisheni.

小树茶 (xiǎoshù chá, ‘itiye lezihlahla ezincane’). Ukutshalwa kwakamuva uma kuqhathaniswa, ngokuvamile kukhuliswe ngembewu noma kusetshenziswa isizinda sofuzo esidala, sendawo. Ngokuma kwesitshalo, lezi seziyizihlahla, hhayi izihlahla ezicutshiwe, kodwa ubudala abukabi bukhulu, futhi ukumnandi kuvamise ukuba lula futhi kubukhali.

台地茶 (táidì chá, ‘itiye lasematsheni/lamapulazi’). Izihlahla eziphansi ezitshalwe ngokuminyene emigqonyeni ematsheni — yizo lezo zinto eziningi ezingavuthiwe eziyisisekelo sobungingi be-shu-puer kanye ne-sheng engabizi. Isivuno esikhulu, kube lula ukuvuna nokucubungula, kodwa futhi ubuncane bokujula kokunambitheka. Lesi yisiphetho sesisekelo, sezimboni sale eksisi.

Uhlobo lokulinywa — lwasendle, lwemvelo, olutshaliwe

Ngokuhambisana neminyaka kunesici sesibili — indabuko yesitshalo, izinga ‘lokufuywa’ kwaso.

野生型 (yěshēng xíng, uhlobo olukhula endle). Izihlahla ezikhule ngaphandle kokubamba iqhaza komuntu, ezinye zazo eziveza iqabunga elibabayo noma elingenakudliwa. Izindawo eziphawulekayo zetiye lasendle — i-大雪山 (Dàxuěshān) kanye ne-千家寨 (Qiānjiāzhài). Itiye lasendle liwumkhakha webhotani noma wokuqoqwa kunokuba isiphuzo sansuku zonke.

过渡型 (guòdù xíng, uhlobo lwesigaba esiphakathi). Izitshalo eziphakathi kwesimo sasendle nesitshaliwe. Isibonelo sakudala — isihlahla esidumile e-邦崴 (Bāngwēi).

栽培型 (zāipéi xíng, uhlobo olutshaliwe). Izihlahla ezitshalwe ngenhloso futhi zinyanyekelwe. Iningi lezinto ezingavuthiwe ze-puer zingalolu hlobo, kungakhathalekile ubudala.

Ukubunjwa komqhele nomgomo wokukhetha

Isendlalelo sesithathu sale eksisi asiphathelene neminyaka noma indabuko, kodwa indlela yokusebenza ngesihlahla kanye nokukhethwa kwezinto ezingavuthiwe.

单株 (dānzhū, ‘isihlahla esisodwa’). Izinto ezingavuthiwe ezivunwa esihlahleni esisodwa kuphela futhi zicutshungulwe ngokuhlukile. Umkhuba wokuqoqwa okukhawulelwe kakhulu: ukunambitheka kwesihlahla esisodwa esivelele esidala akuhlangani nanoma yini, okugqamisa ubunjalo bayo futhi kukhuphule intengo.

藤条茶 (téngtiáo chá, ‘itiye lomvini’). Akulona uhlobo, kodwa indlela ekhethekile yokubumba umqhele, lapho amagatsha enwetshwa futhi abe nqunu, afane nemivini elengayo — kuvela khona igama. Le ndlela ijwayelekile ezifundeni zase-勐库东半山 (Měngkù dōngbànshān) nase-邦东 (Bāngdōng).

古树纯料 (gǔshù chúnliào, ‘izinto ezimsulwa zezihlahla ezindala’). Inhlanganisela ye-monogora (i-terroir eyodwa) nezihlahla ezindala ngaphandle kokuxutshwa kwezinto zasepulazini. Lokhu kuyifomula yesigaba se-premium: ubumsulwa bendabuko kanye nobudala.

Ama-phenotype ahlobene

Kule eksisi efanayo, izitshalo ezinamaqabunga ansomi zitholakala emikhondweni encane ngezindlela ezihlukile. 紫娟 (zǐjuān) wuhlobo olukhethiwe olukhuliswe ngokukhethwa (品种 pǐnzhǒng), kanti 紫芽 (zǐyá, ‘iqabunga elinsomi’) iyi-phenotype yemvelo enamazinga aphezulu ama-anthocyanin, anikeza iqabunga kanye nokumnandi umbala onsomi. Ngokuhlukile kukhona u-芽苞 (yábāo) — ‘iqabunga-umfece’ waseYunnan, amaqabunga amancane ngokuvamile anemvelaphi yasendle. Konke lokhu kuthatha izikhala ezimbalwa, ezikhethekile emakethe.

Ukunambitheka nokufakwa kwamanzi nge-lensi yeksisi

Isigaba seminyaka sinomthelela omuhle enkomishini. Izinto ezingavuthiwe ze-古树 zixabiseka ngokujula, ukuminyana okunamafutha kokumnandi (okubizwa nge-厚 hòu, ‘ubukhulu’), ubumunyu obuthambile, obusongayo, obudlulela ekunambithekeni kwangemuva okumnandi (回甘 huígān), kanye nokumelana nokuthelelwa kwamanzi okuningi. I-台地 yasemapulazini ivamise ukuveza iphrofayili eqondile, ebukhali eshabalala ngokushesha kanye nokunambitheka kwangemuva okungagqamile.

Empeleni lokhu kusho ukufakwa kwamanzi ngokucophelela kwe-sheng encane yesigaba esiphakeme: amanzi ashisayo, kodwa ukutheleka kokuqala okufushane, ukuze kwembule izingqimba, ngaphandle ‘kokwephula’ iqabunga ngobumunyu obudlulele. Uma izinto ezingavuthiwe ezimemezelwe zihloniphekile, isidingo sobuchwepheshe bokutheleka siphezulu.

Ungahlukanisa kanjani futhi ungakhokhi ngokweqile

Inkinga enkulu yale eksisi ukuxhumana kwayo okuqondile nentengo lapho kungekho ndlela elula yokuqinisekisa. Iminyaka yesihlahla ayinakufundwa eqabungeni elomile, futhi imakethe igcwele izinto ezingavuthiwe okumakishwa kwazo kuphakanyiswe ngesigaba esisodwa noma ezimbili: i-大树 ithengiswa njenge-古树, i-小树 — njenge-大树.

Imihlahlandlela embalwa. Okokuqala, themba umthombo nokulandeleleka: abathengisi abaqotho bahlobanisa izinto ezingavuthiwe nesigodi esithile esino-树龄 owaziwayo, futhi amarejista esigodi akhona ngale njongo. Okwesibili, hlaziya inkomishi, hhayi ilebula — ubukhulu bokumnandi, ubude bokunambitheka kwangemuva, nokubekezela ekutheleleni amanzi kunzima ukukukhwabanisa kunombhalo osesembophweni. Okwesithathu, khumbula ukuthi ‘古树’, ‘纯料’, kanye ‘单株’ ngamagama abiza kakhulu futhi akhwabaniswa kakhulu embonini; uma isimemezelo simkhulu, okungenani kumele kube nokwanda okusobala kwendabuko.

Futhi, ekugcineni, umgomo oyinhloko: iminyaka yesihlahla iyisici esinamandla, kodwa hhayi ukuphela kwaso. I-terroir, ubungcweti bokucubungula, nezimo zokugcina zakha umphumela ngokungenani njengenani leminyaka ephilwe yisihlahla. I-eksisi ye-树龄 ichaza intengo — kodwa ayiqinisekisi ukuba semthethweni kwayo.