巴达

Kuphaneyon yama-puerh kunezihlahla ezingaziswa ngenxa yokunambitheka enkomishini, kodwa ngenxa yalokho ezikufakazelayo: itiye lidabuka lapha. I-Qianjiazhai (Qiānjiāzhài 千家寨) ne-Bada (Bādá 巴达) — ama”khosi ezihlahla zetiye” (chá shù wáng 茶树王) amabili anjalo, ami emaphethelweni ahlukene eYunnan nasezigabeni ezahlukene zasendulo.

Kungani sidinga imidondoshiya yasendle

Ekuhlukanisweni kwezinto zokwenziwa ze-sheng puerh, kuvamile ukuhlukanisa izinhlobo ezimbalwa zomsuka: gǔshù 古树 (izihlahla ezindala), dàshù 大树 (izihlahla ezinkulu), bàn zāipéi 半栽培 (ezisendle, ezitshaliwe), guòdù xíng 过渡型 (uhlobo lwenguquko) kanye ne-yěshēng 野生 — izihlahla zasendle zehlathi. Le sitebhisi ayibalulekanga kwezohwebo kuphela. Ifundeka njengomlando wezitshalo wokufuywa kwetiye: kusuka kukhokho wasendle wasehlathini ngezinhlobo zenguquko kuya ezingadini ezitshalwe ngabantu.

Yingakho izihlahla zokhokho ngazinye zaba amatshe esikhumbuzo aphilayo. Umdondoshiya wasendle wase-Qianjiazhai, isihlahla senguquko sase-Bangwai (Bāngwǎi 邦崴) kanye “nenkosi” etshaliwe yaseNannuoshan (Nánnuò 南糯) isikhathi eside yaba izimpikiswano eziphilayo engxoxweni ngendawo yokuzalwa yetiye — ofakazi abathathu bezigaba ezintathu: ezasendle, ezenguquko nezifuyiwe.

I-Qianjiazhai: ukhokho wasendle wase-Ailaoshan

I-Qianjiazhai ingaphansi kwesifunda sase-Pu’er (Pǔ’ěr 普洱), isifunda i-Zhenyuan (Zhènyuán 镇沅), futhi itholakala ezintabeni zase-Ailaoshan (Āiláo Shān 哀牢山). Le yindawo evamile yasendle (yěshēng 野生), futhi udumo lwayo lumi phezu kwesihlahla esisodwa — “inkosi yezihlahla zetiye” yasendle eneminyaka engaba ngu-2700 ubudala.

Ubudala obunjalo bubeka i-Qianjiazhai esigabeni esikhethekile. Uma “amakhosi” atshaliwe njengawaseNannuoshan akalwa ngamakhulu eminyaka, ukhokho wakule ndawo uneminyaka eyizinkulungwane, futhi ukhula lapho kungakaze kutsalwe muntu khona: ehlathini elisezintabeni eziphakeme zase-Ailaoshan, phakathi komphakathi wezihlahla zetiye zasendle. Lena akuyona ingadi noma ipulazi, kodwa i-ecosystem yehlathi, lapho izihlahla zetiye ziyingxenye yekhanophi.

Kurejista yethu yamadolobhana, i-Qianjiazhai ifakwe kusigaba B: akukhona ukunambitheka okuhamba phambili kwezohwebo, kodwa ngokuyinhloko iyisikhumbuzo semvelo kanye nendawo yokubhekisa yesayensi. Iphrofayili yezinto zayo zokwenziwa ichazwa kafushane — yěyùn 野韵, “isimo sasendle,” iphimbo elijwayelekile lasehlathini eliveza ngokushesha umsuka wasendle.

I-Bada: intaba eyalahlekelwa yinkosi yayo

I-Bada iseceleni elilodwa lesifundazwe — e-Xishuangbanna (Xīshuāngbǎnnà 西双版纳), esifundeni sase-Menghai (Měnghǎi 勐海), ezintabeni zase-Bada, eduze nedolobhana lase-Zhanglang (Zhānglǎng 章朗). Lapha izinto zokwenziwa zingaba ezitshaliwe (gǔshù) nezasendle (yěshēng), kanti iphrofayili ichazwa njengenothile, egcwele, ene-shānyě qì 山野气 — “umoya wezintaba nehlathi.”

Ikhasi elikhulu lomlando we-Bada, nokho, lidabukisayo. Emashumini amaningi eminyaka, intaba yayidumile nge-”nkosi yezihlahla zetiye” yasendle, ubudala bayo obulinganiselwa cishe ku-1700 weminyaka. Lo mdondoshiya wawuyisibonelo sesidalwa sasendle esiphila isikhathi eside sase-Xishuangbanna — waze wawa ngo-2012. Ngokuwa kwaso, i-Bada yalahlekelwa wuphawu lwayo oluyinhloko, futhi namuhla intaba isekurejista esigabeni B — njengendawo enegama elinezinto zokwenziwa zasendle nezitshaliwe, kodwa ngaphandle kokhokho ophilayo.

Umlando wesihlahla sase-Bada uyisikhumbuzo esibonakalayo sokuntengantenga kwalezi zikhumbuzo. Isihlahla seziwula leminyaka asikwazi “ukubuyiselwa”: ukuwa kwaso kuwukulahleka okungenakubuyiselwa, futhi ngalo mqondo, yonke “inkosi” esele, kuhlanganise ne-Qianjiazhai, iphila isemngceleni.

Izinto Zokwenziwa kanye Nokucutshungulwa

Kokubili i-Qianjiazhai ne-Bada zinikela ngezinto zokwenziwa ze-sheng puerh — itiye elicindezelwe laseYunnan eliluhlaza (elingagaywanga ngohlelo “lwe-shu”). Uchungechunge lobuchwepheshe oluyisisekelo luyefana kuso sonke isifunda: ukuqoqwa kweqabunga, i-shāqīng (ukumiswa-”kokubulawa kokuluhlaza” embizeni ngezinga lokushisa elimaphakathi ukuze unga”thosi” iqabunga), ukusontwa, ukomiswa kwelanga kwezinto zokwenziwa (kutholakala i-shàiqīng máochá — i-maocha eyomiswe elangeni), bese kuthi uma kunesidingo ukufuthwa ngomphunga nokucindezelwa kube amakhekhe, izitini noma i-tuo cha.

Okukhethekile ngezinto zokwenziwa zasendle nezenguquko kusemthonjeni, hhayi kubuchwepheshe. Iqabunga elivela ezihlahleni zasendle lasehlathini likhudlwana futhi lilingana, liphethe leyo shānyě qì, futhi kufanele kusetshenzwe ngalo ngokucophelela: izinhlobo zenguquko nezasendle zihlukile ezingadini ezitshaliwe. Ukuqoqwa kulezi zihlahla kuncane futhi akukho njalo, okuzenza zibe yizinto eziyisipesheli, hhayi ezimpahla.

Ukunambitheka Nokwenziwa Kwetiye

Womabili amaphrofayili akhelwe phezu kwendikimba yehlathi, kodwa ngezindlela ezigxile ezinhlotsheni ezahlukene.

I-Qianjiazhai ngokuyinhloko i-yěyùn 野韵: isimo sasendle, “sehlathi” senhluzi, umuzwa wezihlahla ezikhule ngaphandle kwengadi. Lokhu kunambitheka okuyisimo, hhayi ukunambitheka okuyidisethi; kuthakaselwa ubuqiniso bomsuka wasendle.

I-Bada yengeza emoyeni wezintaba nehlathi (shānyě qì) ukuminyana nokugcwala komzimba wenhluzi — kusuka lapha incazelo “厚” (ogcwele, owugqinsi). Leli itiye “elinomzimba” kakhulu kunama-gǔshù amaningi athambile asezivandeni.

Ukwenzela izinto zokwenziwa zasendle ezigcwele, kuhle ukuphuza i-puerh gongfu: ubumba olufudunyeziwe noma i-gaiwan yobumba olwembiwa, ukuminyana okuminyene, amakhefu amafushane kakhulu ngamanzi abilayo nokukhipha ngokushesha. Iqabunga lasendle lithanda izinga lokushisa lamanzi eliqinisekile, kodwa alithandi ukuhlaliswa isikhathi eside: ubumuncu behlathi nobulukhuni buvela kalula uma ukungenisa kuthatha isikhathi eside. Amakhefu amaningana amafushane ayiveza kahle kakhulu “isimo sasendle” kancane kancane.

Umlando Namasiko

Ukubaluleka kwalezi zindawo ezimbili emephini akukhona okwezokudla, kodwa okwempucuko. Izingxabano mayelana nokuthi ikuphi indawo yokuzalwa kwesihlahla setiye, amashumi eminyaka zincike ezintweni ezitholakala emsebenzini wasensimini eYunnan, futhi amakhokho asendle anjengowase-Qianjiazhai abe yimpikiswano enzima: itiye lakhula lapha isikhathi eside ngaphambi kokuba liqalwe ukutshalwa.

Uhlaka oluthathu “olwasendle — olwenguquko — olutshaliwe” lwakhiwa luzungeze izihlahla ezintathu ezidumile: “inkosi” yasendle (lolu chungechunge luhlanganisa kokubili i-Qianjiazhai kanye nomdondoshiya wase-Bada owawa), isihlahla senguquko sase-Bangwai (Bāngwǎi 邦崴) e-Pu’er esineminyaka engaba yinkulungwane ubudala kanye “nenkosi” etshaliwe yase-Nannuoshan. Zonke ndawonye zakha i-eksisi ebonakalayo yokufuywa, futhi yingakho amadolobhana azungezile — ngisho nawesigaba B esincane — engena kunoma iyiphi irejista ejulile.

Indlela Yokuzihlukanisa

• Indawo. I-Qianjiazhai yase-Pu’er, eZhenyuan, izintaba zase-Ailaoshan. I-Bada yase-Xishuangbanna, eMenghai, iNtaba i-Bada eduze nedolobhana laseZhanglang. Izifunda zokuphatha ezahlukene nezintaba ezahlukene.
• Uhlobo lwesihlahla. I-Qianjiazhai kurejista — ingeyesendle ngokuphelele (yěshēng 野生). I-Bada — ixubile: kokubili izihlahla ezindala ezitshaliwe (gǔshù), nezasendle.
• Isihlahla esiwuphawu. I-Qianjiazhai ine-”nkosi” yasendle ephilayo ~2700 weminyaka. I-Bada ine-”nkosi” eyawa ~1700 weminyaka (yawa ngo-2012), okusho ukuthi intaba idume ngesihlahla esingasekho.
• Iphrofayili. I-Qianjiazhai — i-yěyùn 野韵 emfushane, isimo sasendle. I-Bada — umzimba ogcwele ne-shānyě qì 山野气 egqamile.
• Umongo womsuka. Isimo sasendle sehlathi (i-Qianjiazhai, izinto zokwenziwa zasendle zase-Bada) kuyasiza ukusicabanga eduze kwe-Bangwai yenguquko kanye “namakhosi” atshaliwe — lokhu kuyasiza ukuzwa ukuthi “ihlathi” liphela kuphi “nengadi” iqala kuphi.

Kokubili i-Qianjiazhai ne-Bada bayasikhumbuza ukuthi emhlabeni we-puerh “ubunkanyezi” bedolobhana akusho njalo ikhekhe elibizayo enkomishini. Ngezinye izikhathi kusho ukuthi lapha, phakathi kwezintaba zaseYunnan, kusemi — noma bekumi muva nje — isihlahla, okukalwa ngaso ubudala betiye ngokwalo.