měng kù chūn jiān

I-Mengku chunjian (勐库春尖) iyi-sheng pu’erh exegwayo yasentwasahlobo evela esifundeni sezintaba sase-Mengku (勐库, Měngkù) entshonalanga yesifundazwe sase-Yunnan. Egameni kuhlanganiswe ukunquma indawo—i-Mengku, enye yezindawo eziyinhloko zetiye esifundeni sase-Lincang (临沧, Líncāng)—kanye nesigaba esidala sezohwebo esithi “chunjian” (春尖), okungukuthi “ama-tipu asentwasahlobo”: ukuvunwa kokuqala nokuthambile kakhulu kwesizini. Impahla eluhlaza iyi-local large-leaf cultivar i-mengku da ye zhong (勐库大叶种, Měngkù dàyèzhǒng), kanti ukuqokwa okuphelele kwento ohlwini lwamanani kuthi yi-mengku chunjian sheng san cha (勐库春尖生散茶), lapho “sheng san cha” (生散茶) kukhombisa itiye eliluhlaza elisesimweni esixegayo. I-Mengku yaziwa ngenhlanganisela yobukrakra obuzwakalayo kanye nokunambitheka okumnandi okunamandla nokuhlala isikhathi eside emuva; isifunda ngokwaso singesinye sezihlonishwa kakhulu ebalazweni lama-pu’erh ase-Lincang, lapho singomakhelwane nedolobhana elidumile i-Bingdao (冰岛, Bīngdǎo).

1. Ukuhlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

Uhlobo: i-pu’erh sheng (生, shēng)—eluhlaza, engangeni ekuvutshelweni okusheshisiwe okwenziwayo
Isigaba: i-pu’erh (普洱茶, pǔ’ěr chá)
Isimo: itiye elixegayo (散茶, sǎn chá)
I-cultivar yempahla eluhlaza: i-mengku da ye zhong (勐库大叶种, Měngkù dàyèzhǒng), uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu lwe-Camellia sinensis var. assamica
Ukuvuna: intwasahlobo yokuqala, izinga lezohwebo i-chunjian (春尖)
Imvelaphi: isifunda sase-Mengku, isifunda sase-Shuangjiang (双江县, Shuāngjiāng Xiàn), isifunda esingaphansi kwe-Lincang, isifundazwe sase-Yunnan, i-PRC
Izixhumanisi zendawo: cishe 23°30′ N, 99°50′ E

I-Mengku chunjian ingeyetiye le-pu’erh eliluhlaza. Ngokuphambene ne-shu pu’erh (熟茶, shú chá), edlula ekufakweni emanzi (渥堆, wòduī), i-sheng ayiphathwa ngaleyondlela futhi imelela impahla eluhlaza eyomiswe elangeni, ekwazi ukuvuthwa kancane iminyaka. Izinga likahulumeni le-pu’erh njengomkhiqizo onegama lendawo (GB/T 22111-2008) libeka ukuthi i-pu’erh itiye elivela ezitshalweni zase-Yunnan ezinaqabunga amakhulu, eyomiswe elangeni, ekhiqizwa ngaphakathi kwemingcele ebekiwe yesifundazwe; indawo yase-Lincang, okuhlanganisa i-Shuangjiang ne-Mengku, ifakwe endaweni evikelekile.

Igama elithi “cultivar” uma lisetshenziswa kule nto kufanele liqondwe ngezindlela ezimbili: ngakolunye uhlangothi—i-cultivar yezitshalo yesihlahla setiye, ngakolunye—izinga lezohwebo ngokwesizini nangokuthamba kweqabunga. Ngakho-ke, i-mengku chunjian ichazwa kangcono hhayi njenge recipe yetiye eyodwa, kodwa njengesitayela sesifunda—i-sheng yasentwasahlobo exegayo evela e-Mengku yobuthambile obuphakeme kakhulu bokuvuna.

2. Umlando Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Umongo wesiko lamaqembu ezizwe: igama eliphelele lesifunda i-Shuangjiang-Lahu-Va-Bulang-Dai Autonomous County; linabantu bama-Lahu (拉祜族), ama-Va (佤族), ama-Bulang (布朗族) kanye nama-Dai (傣族), okulinywa kwabo itiye nokusetshenziswa kwalo kwansuku zonke kudlula ezizukulwaneni eziningi.
Amahlathi asendle amadala etiye: e-Mengku Da Xueshan (勐库大雪山, Měngkù Dàxuěshān) ngo-1997 kwahlolwa indawo ebanzi yezihlahla zetiye zasendle ezindala ezindaweni eziphakeme cishe 2200–2750 m—esinye sezindawo ezinkulu neziphakeme kakhulu ezaziwayo ezinjengalezi.
Idolobhana i-Bingdao: ngokwamarekhodi endawo ukulinywa kwetiye elihleliwe e-Bingdao kubhekiswa esikhathini se-Ming (ukuphela kwekhulu le-15); namuhla i-Bingdao iyindlela futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo igama elibiza kakhulu kulesi sifunda.

Isigaba esithi “chunjian” sisukela ekuhlelweni kwezohwebo kwetiye lase-Yunnan ngesikhathi se-Qing ne-Republican, lapho ukuvuna intwasahlobo kwakuhlukaniswa ngesikhathi nangobuthambile: iqabunga lokuqala nelincane kakhulu kwakubhalwa “chunjian”, kulandele ukuvuna intwasahlobo okunamandla kakhudlwana, kanti okwasekwindla kwakubizwa “gu hua” (谷花, gǔhuā). Emsebenzini ka-Ruan Fu othi “Amarekhodi nge-Pu’erh” (阮福《普洱茶记》, 1825) kuphawuliwe ukuthi iqabunga lokuqala lentwasahlobo elihle kakhulu lalikhethwa ngokukhethekile futhi lalibizwa kakhulu kunamanye. Ngakho-ke, “chunjian” iwulimi oluqhamuka ngokomlando lokuchaza ikhwalithi, oludluliselwe ku-sheng yanamuhla exegayo.

Engxenyeni yesibili yekhulu lama-20 igama lase-Mengku lalihlotshaniswa ngokuyinhloko nokuhlinzekwa kwezinto zokusetshenziswa kumafekthri amakhulu, kwathi ngeminyaka yawo-2000 ama-pu’erh ase-Lincang futhi ikakhulukazi i-Mengku nedolobhana layo i-Bingdao ahlangabezana nokwanda okusheshayo kokuduma namanani. Phakathi kwabakhiqizi bendawo inkampani “Mengku Rongshi” (勐库戎氏, Měngkù Róngshì) yaziwa kabanzi.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo Nempahla Eluhlaza:

I-cultivar yezitshalo: i-mengku da ye zhong—uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu lwe-assamica, olubonakala ngeqabunga elikhulu, okuqukethwe okuphezulu kwezinto ezikhiphekayo kanye nokuba noboya okuhle kwehlumela.
Izimpawu zeqabunga: iqabunga likhulu, linesikhumba, linemithambo ebonakalayo; ihlumela ligcwele, limbozwe uboya obusiliva.
I-cultivar kazwelonke: i-mengku da ye zhong ngeminyaka yawo-1980 yafakwa ohwini lwezitshalo zetiye ezithuthukisiwe ezamukelwe kuzwelonke lwase-China.
Izinga lokuvuna le-chunjian: intwasahlobo yokuqala, ama-flush athambile kakhulu—ihlumela elineqabunga elilodwa, ngokuvamile amabili amancane.

Imfadalwa yesigaba esiphezulu “chunjian” kuthathwa njengokuvunwa kokuqala kwentwasahlobo, lapho isihlahla ngemva kokuphumula ebusika sikhiqiza iqabunga eligcwele kakhulu. Etiyeni elixegayo eliqediwe lokhu kubonakala ngesilinganiso esiphezulu samahlumela amhlophe anoboya kanye nokufana kwama-flush. Isimo esiphakathi phakathi kweqabunga elisanda kuvunwa netiye elihwebiwe sivezwa yi-maocha (毛茶, máochá)—imfadalwa eyomiswe elangeni, bese ihlukaniswa ngobuthambile.

4. I-Terroir Nezimpawu Zokulima:

Isimo sendawo nokuphakama: izingadi zetiye zase-Mengku zitholakala ikakhulukazi ezindaweni eziphakeme cishe 1000–2000 m nangaphezulu; isiqongo esiyinhloko sendawo sifinyelela cishe ku-3200 m.
Isimo sezulu: i-subtropical monsoon, nomehluko obonakalayo wamazinga okushisa emini nasebusuku, inala yenkungu nomswakama, okusiza ekunqwabelaneni kwezinto ezinephunga elimnandi nezikhiphekayo.
Inhlabathi: ikakhulukazi inhlabathi eluhlaza okotshani nephuzi edwengukile enesisekelo esine-asidi, ekhipha amanzi kahle emithambekeni.
Ukwehlukaniswa kwesifunda: umfula i-Nanmeng (南勐河, Nán Měng hé) wehlukanisa indawo ibe yiNgxenye Yasempumalanga Yezintaba (东半山, dōng bàn shān) kanye neNgxenye Yasentshonalanga Yezintaba (西半山, xī bàn shān).

Umehluko phakathi “kwezingxenye” ezimbili—ngukhiye wokuqonda isitayela. Amatiye aseNgxenyeni Yasentshonalanga, okuyingxenye yayo i-Bingdao, ngokwesiko abhekwa njengamnandi kakhulu, anobukrakra obulinganiselwe uma kuqhathaniswa neqabunga elikhulu kanye nobumnandi obufana “noshukela”; amatiye aseNgxenyeni Yasempumalanga abonwa njenganamandla kakhulu, agcwele ubukrakra nobudlabha, anamandla azwakalayo. Ekukhulumeni kwansuku zonke kuhlukaniswa futhi itiye lezihlahla zasendulo (古树, gǔshù) kanye nelamasimu ezitshalo ezihleliwe (台地茶, táidì chá): elokuqala libaluleka ngokujula nobuningi bokunambitheka futhi libiza kakhulu.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

Ukuvuna: ukuvunwa ngesandla kwama-flush athambile ekuqaleni kwentwasahlobo.
Ukubhacekisa: ukunabisa amaqabunga ungqimba oluncane (摊晾/萎凋, tānliàng/wěidiāo) ukuze kulahlekelwe ingxenye yomswakama.
Ukuqinisa uhlaza: ukugazinga epanini (杀青, shāqīng) ezingeni lokushisa elilinganiselwe—eliphansi kunalelo elisetshenziswa ekukhiqizeni itiye eliluhlaza, ukuze kulondolozwe ingxenye yomsebenzi we-enzayimu odingekayo ekuvuthweni okwalandela.
Ukusonga: ukusonga ngesandla noma ngomshini (揉捻, róuniǎn).
Ukomiswa elangeni: ukuqedela ukomisa elangeni (晒干, shàigān)—yilesi sigaba esikhiqiza i-”shaiqing maocha” (晒青毛茶, shàiqīng máochá), imfadalwa ye-pu’erh.
Ukuhlukanisa ngosayizi: ukukhetha ama-flush athambile kakhulu afakwe esigabeni se-chunjian.

Isici esibalulekile sobuchwepheshe be-sheng pu’erh—ukungabikho kokufakwa emanzi: itiye “aligugiswa ngokufakelwa”, kodwa lishiywa linamandla okuvutshelwa kancane ngendlela yemvelo. Njengoba kukhulunywa ngetiye elixegayo (生散茶), amaqabunga awacindezelwa abe ama-disc, ama-tuo noma izitini, kodwa ashiywa esimweni esikhululekile, okulondoloza ukubukeka kwamahlumela aphelele kanye nokuba lula kokukala.

6. Izimpawu Zokunambitha Nokuzwa:

Iqabunga elomile: luhlaza okotshani obumnyama nokunsomi okuncane, nengxenye ebonakalayo yamahlumela akhanyayo anoboya; alinganayo futhi athambile uma kuqhathaniswa nempahla yamaqabunga amakhulu.
Ukuthelwa: kusuka kokuphuzi okuphaphathekile kuya kokuphuzi okusagolide, kusobala futhi kukhanyayo kumtiye omusha.
Iphunga elimnandi: elisha, elimnandi njengezimbali noju, elinezimpawu zezithelo nezohlaza; kumtiye ovuthiwe kuvela amathoni ajulile, avuthiwe kakhudlwana.
Ukunambitheka: kugcwele futhi kuminyene, nobukrakra nobudlabha obujwayelekile kwelase-Mengku, okusheshe kulandelwe ukunambitheka okumnandi okunamandla okubuyayo emuva.

Imiqondo eyinhloko ekuhloleni—“huigan” (回甘, huígān), ukubuya kobumnandi ngemva kobukrakra, kanye “shengjin” (生津, shēngjīn), ukukhiqizwa okukhulu kwamathe nomuzwa wobusha emlonyeni nasemphinjeni. Kwi-mengku chunjian yekhwalithi ubukrakra (苦, kǔ) nobudlabha (涩, sè) abuhlali olimini, kodwa “buguqukela” ebumnandini; umuzwa wobuningi emlonyeni nomsebenzi omnandi emphinjeni uyezwakala. Uma imfadalwa isondelene kakhulu nezingadi zasentshonalanga zesifunda, iphrofayili iba mnene futhi imnandi; uma isempumalanga kakhudlwana—inamandla futhi iyindoda.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali:

Ama-polyphenol etiye: aphezulu ezitshalweni zamaqabunga amakhulu, alinganiselwa cishe ku-30–36% ku-sheng entsha; ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ingxenye yawo iyehla.
Ama-catechin: ingxenye ebalulekile yama-polyphenol, abangela ubudlabha nomphumela wokuhlanganisa.
I-caffeine: cishe 3–5%.
Ama-amino acid akhululekile: alinganiselwa cishe ku-2–4%, okuhlanganisa ne-theanine; isilinganiso sawo nama-polyphenol sinquma kakhulu ukulingana kobumnandi nobukrakra.
Ushukela oncibilikayo, ama-pectin nezinhlanganisela ezinuka kamnandi: zakha ukugcwala komzimba wokunambitheka nengxenye emnandi.

Izitshalo zamaqabunga amakhulu zase-Yunnan zihluke ngokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwama-polyphenol nezinto ezikhiphekayo uma kuqhathaniswa nezamaqabunga amancane. I-sheng entsha igcwele ama-polyphenol ne-caffeine, okuchaza ubukrakra bayo obuzwakalayo nomphumela okhuthazayo; uma igcinwe isikhathi eside ingxenye yama-polyphenol i-oxidizeka futhi ishintshe, okuthambisa ukunambitheka futhi kuguqule umbala wokuthelwa.

8. Izinto Eziwusizo Empilweni:

Amandla e-antioxidant: abangelwa ukuqukethwe okuphezulu kwama-polyphenol nama-catechin.
Umphumela okhuthazayo: ngenxa ye-caffeine; i-sheng entsha ikhuthaza ngokubonakalayo.
Ukusekela ukugayeka kokudla: ngokwesiko lama-Chinese i-pu’erh iphuzwa ngemva kokudla okunamafutha nokunengi.

Ulwazi olunikeziwe lubonisa imibono evamile ngetiye lamaqabunga amakhulu kanye nomkhuba wokusetshenziswa ngokwesiko futhi akuzona izincomo zezokwelapha. I-pu’erh entsha eluhlaza igcwele ama-polyphenol ne-caffeine futhi ingaba namandla esiswini, ngakho-ke akunconywa ukuyiphuza ngesisu esingenalutho nangamanani amakhulu ebusuku; ukubekezelelana ngakunye kufanele kubhekwe.

9. Ukuphisa:

Izitsha: i-gaiwan (盖碗, gàiwǎn) noma i-porcelain—zilungele kakhulu i-sheng entsha, njengoba ziveza iphunga elimnandi futhi “zingadli” amanothi; i-teapot yobumba (紫砂壶, zǐshā hú) isetshenziswa ngokuqapha kakhudlwana.
Amanzi: athambile, asanda kubiliswa; izinga lokushisa cishe 90–95 °C ngetiye elisha (ukuze kuthanjiswe ubukrakra) futhi kufinyelele ku-95–100 °C ngalelo eselivuthwe kakhudlwana.
Isilinganiso: cishe 5–7 g ku-100–150 ml.
Ukugeza kokuqala: ukugeza okukodwa okusheshayo kwamaqabunga (imizuzwana embalwa), ukuthelwa kuyachithwa.
Ama-infusion: isitayela se-infusion (i-gongfu) ngokufakwa emanzini isikhathi esifushane—imizuzwana 5–10 yokuqala ngokwandiswa kancane kancane; imfadalwa yekhwalithi imelana nama-infusion ayishumi nangaphezulu.

Iseluleko esisebenzayo: uma ukuphuza kokuqala kuzwakala kubabayo ngokweqile, kuyancomeka ukunciphisa isikhathi se-infusion nokwehlisa kancane izinga lokushisa, hhayi ukunciphisa inani leqabunga—ngale ndlela ukunambitheka kuhlala kugcwele, kanti ubukrakra buba nokulawuleka. Kuphinde kube nokuphisa okuthule kakhudlwana ngenani elikhulu lamanzi nesilinganiso esincane sokusetshenziswa kwansuku zonke.

10. Ukugcinwa:

Izimo: indawo eyomile, enomoya, engenaphunga langaphandle, kude nekhishi, amakha kanye namakhemikhali asendlini.
Umswakama nezinga lokushisa: okulinganiselwe nokuzinzile; ukushintshashintsha okukhulu nomswakama akunconywa.
Ukukhanya: gwema ukukhanya kwelanga okuqondile.

I-pu’erh eluhlaza iyakwazi ukuvuthwa nokuziveza kahle ngokuhamba kweminyaka, nokho isimo esixegayo sikhula ngendlela ehlukile kunesicindezelwe. Ngenxa yendawo enkulu yokuthinta nomoya itiye elixegayo li-oxidizeka ngokushesha futhi lingalahlekelwa iphunga elimnandi elisha ngaphambi kwesikhathi, kanti ama-disc nama-tuo acindezelwe ngokwesiko abhekwa njengaphumelela kangcono ekugcinweni isikhathi eside nasekuthuthukiseni isimilo esijulile “esigugile”. Ngakho-ke i-chunjian exegayo ivame ukubhekwa njengetiye lokuphuzwa lisemncane noma liseminyakeni ephakathi nendawo yokuvuthwa, hhayi njengento yokuqoqwa okweminyaka eminingi. Lapho kugcinwa kubalulekile ukuhlukanisa phakathi kokugcinwa okomile (干仓, gāncāng) nokumanzi (湿仓, shīcāng): okokuqala kunikeza ukuvuthwa okuhlanzekile, okubikezelwayo, okwesibili kuyingozi futhi kungonakalisa imfadalwa.

11. Intengo Nemikhiqizo Yomgunyathi:

Ukwehluka kwamanani: kubanzi kakhulu. Imfadalwa eminingi yamasimu e-Mengku iyatholakala; itiye elinegama lamadolobhana athile futhi ikakhulukazi elezihlahla zasendulo libiza ngokuphindwe kaningi.
I-Bingdao njengento enomthelela: igama le-Bingdao—libiza kakhulu kulesi sifunda, futhi yilo futhi elivame ukuba yisisulu sokuqagela kwamanani nokwenziwa komgunyathi.
Yini eyeqiswa ngenani: ubudala bezihlahla (ama-táidì akhishwa njengama-gǔshù), isizini (iqabunga lasekwindla noma lasehlobo—njenge-chunjian yasentwasahlobo), indawo encane (amadolobhana angomakhelwane—njenge-Bingdao).

Ungazibeka kanjani kahle. I-chunjian yangempela yasentwasahlobo yobuthambile obuphezulu ikhombisa imfadalwa elinganayo enengxenye ebonakalayo yamahlumela anoboya, ukuthelwa okuhlanzekile, futhi ekunambithekeni—ukubuya okusheshayo nokuzwakalayo kobumnandi kanye nokukhiqizwa okukhulu kwamathe; ukunambitheka “okungenalutho”, okubabayo ngokuyisicaba ngaphandle kwe-huigan—kuwuphawu olukhathazayo. Intengo ephansi ngokusolisayo “ye-Bingdao yasendulo” cishe ngaso sonke isikhathi isho ukushintshwa kwemvelaphi. Kuthembeke kakhulu ukuthenga kubathengisi abazimisele ukusho ingadi ethile noma idolobhana kanye nonyaka wokuvuna, futhi uma kungenzeka ukunambitha itiye ngaphambi kokuthenga, hhayi ukuncika kuphela egameni elikhulu elisephaketheni.

12. Amaqiniso Athokozisayo:

Umfula i-Nanmeng wehlukanisa isifunda hhayi nje ngokwendawo, kodwa nangokunambitheka: i-Mengku “yasempumalanga” neyasentshonalanga—kucishe kube izinhlobo ezimbili ezihlukile zetiye ngesikhathi sinye se-cultivar yesihlahla.
I-Mengku Da Xueshan yaziwa njengenye yezindawo eziphakeme kakhulu zezihlahla zetiye zasendle ezindala, ezahlolwa ngasekupheleni kwekhulu lama-20.
“I-Chunjian”—ngokuyinhloko ulimi lwekhwalithi, oluzuzwe njengefa ekuhlelweni okudala kwezohwebo; umqondo ofanayo wokuhlukanisa ukuvuna intwasahlobo ngobuthambile uyalandeleka emibhalweni yase-Yunnan yekhulu le-19.
I-Bingdao iyingxenye ye-Mengku, ngakho-ke izincazelo eziningi ze-”mengku” ne-”bingdao” ziyahlangana ngokwengxenye, nakuba amanani ehluka ngokuphindwe kaningi.
Nge-sheng entsha i-porcelain ne-gaiwan kuvame ukukhethwa kunobumba ngenxa yokuthi inhloso—ukuzwa iphunga elimnandi elisha lezimbali noju ngaphandle kokulithambisa.

Ekuphetheni:

I-Mengku chunjian ayilona uphawu futhi ayilona recipe eyodwa, kodwa isitayela sesifunda se-pu’erh eluhlaza: i-sheng yasentwasahlobo exegayo yobuthambile obuphakeme kakhulu evela esifundeni sase-Mengku esifundeni sase-Shuangjiang. Yamukelwa nge-cultivar yamaqabunga amakhulu i-mengku da ye zhong, ngokunambitheka okuminyene nobukrakra obujwayelekile kanye nokubuya okunamandla, okuhlala isikhathi eside kobumnandi, okulandelwa i-terroir ye-Lincang ephakeme enenkungu, ukushintshashintsha kwamazinga okushisa kanye nokwehlukaniswa kube imithambeka esempumalanga nasentshonalanga.

Ukuze ujwayelane ne-pu’erh yase-Lincang leli tiye—liyindawo enhle yokuqala: linikeza umbono ocacile wokuthi iyini i-sheng yamaqabunga amakhulu yase-Yunnan, nokuthi ubukrakra buguquka kanjani bube ubumnandi. Lapho uthenga kunengqondo ukuholwa hhayi igama elikhulu le-Bingdao lodwa, kodwa imvelaphi, isizini nonyaka okuboniswe ngokwethembeka, kanye nokunambitha kwakho siqu—yikhona okuhlukanisa ngokuthembeka kakhulu i-chunjian yangempela yasentwasahlobo ekulingiseni kwayo okuningi.

the teas described here are available from teamotea