bù lǎng shān shú bǐng

I-Bulangshan shu bing yitiye eliminyene, elivutshelwe ngemuva (i-pu’er), elenziwe ngezinto ezingavuthiwe zamaqabunga amakhulu avela ogwadule lwase Bulangshan (布朗山, Bùlǎng Shān) esifundeni sase Menghai eningizimu yesifundazwe sase Yunnan. «Shu» (熟, shú) lisho «okuvuthiwe», okungukuthi, itiye elidlule ekuvutshelweni okusheshisiwe ngokufakwa esilinganisweni esimanzi, kanti «bing» (饼, bǐng) lisho isimo sendabuko sediski-isiqedlana esiyisicaba. IBulangshan ingenye yezindawo ezidume kakhulu zetiye eXishuangbanna, eyaziwa ngezinto ezingavuthiwe ezinamandla, ezigcwele, futhi ezinomunyu ekuqaleni, okuthi etiyeni elivuthiwe eliqediwe kuphenduke umhluzo ominyene, ofudumele, futhi onoshukela. Leli tiye laziswa ngenxa yezimpawu zalo ezikhethekile ze-«Menghai» kanye nomthelela walo omnene esiswini, okwenza ukuthi lidume ngephuzo lansuku zonke kanye nokugcinwa isikhathi eside.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

Uhlobo: itiye le-pu’er elivutshelwe ngemuva (普洱茶, Pǔ’ěr chá), isigaba esingaphansi — i-pu’er evuthiwe (shu) (熟茶, shú chá).
Isimo sokukhishwa: isiqedlana esiminyene (饼茶, bǐngchá), ngokuvamile esinesisindo esijwayelekile esingu-357 g, esaziwa ngokuthi «amadodana ayisikhombisa» (七子饼, qīzǐbǐng); iziqedlana eziyisikhombisa ngokwesiko zipakishwa ekhafini loqalo — «ithani» (筒, tǒng).
Imvelaphi: ugwadule lwase Bulangshan, isifunda sase Menghai (勐海县, Měnghǎi Xiàn), isifunda esizibusayo sase Xishuangbanna Dai (西双版纳, Xīshuāngbǎnnà), isifundazwe sase Yunnan (云南, Yúnnán), eChina.
Izinto ezingavuthiwe: impahla eluhlaza ye-shaiqing maocha (晒青毛茶, shàiqīng máochá) — eyomiswe elangeni, evela eqabungeni lesihlahla setiye sase Yunnan elinamaqabunga amakhulu.

I-Pu’er njengomkhakha inesimo somkhiqizo oqokwe ngokwendawo futhi ilawulwa yizinga likazwelonke i-GB/T 22111-2008 «Umkhiqizo Oqokwe Ngokwendawo. I-Pu’er». Ngokwaleli zinga, i-pu’er yangempela ifaka itiye elikhiqizwe ezifundeni ezithile zase Yunnan ngezinto ezingavuthiwe zohlobo lwendawo lwamaqabunga amakhulu. IBulangshan njengendawo ingaphakathi kwemingcele yale ndawo yezwe.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Abantu abangamaphayona: ugwadule lwase Bulangshan luyindawo yendabuko yabantu base Bulang (布朗族, Bùlǎngzú), inzalo yabantu basendulo base Pu (濮人, Púrén), ababhekwa njengabanye babalimi bokuqala kakhulu besitshalo setiye esifundeni.
Izingadi zasendulo: emizaneni emidala kakhulu, ikakhulukazi eLaoman’e (老曼峨, Lǎomàn’é), kusekhona izihlahla zetiye nezinsimu ezineminyaka emakhulu eminyaka ubudala; umuzi ngokwawo ukhona iminyaka engaphezu kwenkulungwane futhi ugcina ithempeli lamaBuddha.
Ubuciko be-shu: indlela yokuvutshelwa okwenziwayo ngesilinganiso esimanzi (渥堆, wòduī), okungenxa yayo i-pu’er evuthiwe yenzeka nhlobo, yasungulwa futhi yasetshenziswa ngeminyaka yawo-1970 ezimbonini zetiye zase Kunming nase Menghai.

IBulangshan yaduma ngokuyinhloko ngenxa ye-pu’er eluhlaza (sheng) evela emizaneni efana neLaobanzhang (老班章, Lǎobānzhāng) neLaoman’e, lapho iqabunga liphawuleka ngamandla nobumunyu obukhulu. I-pu’er evuthiwe evela ezintweni ezingavuthiwe ezifanayo yavela kamuva, lapho kwase kucacile ukuthi isisekelo esinamandla sezinto ezingavuthiwe sikwazi ukumelana nesilinganiso kahle, sinikeza umhluzo ominyene nonomzimba. Igama elithi «ukunambitheka kwase Menghai» (勐海味, Měnghǎi wèi) libonisa izimpawu ezikhethekile ze-pu’er evuthiwe, ekhiqizwa ngqo e Menghai, okuhlobene namanzi endawo kanye nesimo esizinzile samagciwane ezindaweni zokuvutshela.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo kanye Nezinto Ezingavuthiwe:

Uhlobo lwezitshalo: Camellia sinensis var. assamica — isihlahla setiye sase Yunnan esinamaqabunga amakhulu (云南大叶种, Yúnnán dàyèzhǒng).
Iqabunga: likhulu, linesikhumba, linemithambo ebonakalayo kanye nokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwezinto ezikhishwayo nama-polyphenol, okuvamile ohlotsheni lwe-assamica.
Indlela yokukhula: kusukela ezitshalweni zamasimu amaplani (台地茶) kuya ezihlahleni ezindala (古树, gǔshù) kanye nezimo eziphakeme; eziqwini ezimakwe ngokuthi «ezomuthi» izinto ezingavuthiwe ziqoqwa ezitshalweni ezineminyaka emidala.
Ukuvuna: ikakhulukazi entwasahlobo nasekwindla; izinga elijwayelekile — ihlumela elinamaqabunga amabili, akuvamile iqabunga elimahhadlahhadla eziqwini ezithengekayo.

Isici esihlukanisayo sezinto ezingavuthiwe zase Bulang ukuqoqeka okuphezulu kwezinhlanganisela ezibabayo nezibophayo kanye namandla anamandla «etiye» (茶气, cháqì). Emzaneni wase Laoman’e, ngokwesiko kuhlukaniswa «itiye elibabayo» (苦茶, kǔchá) «netiye elimnandi» (甜茶, tiánchá) — imiphakathi enebhalansi ehlukile yobumunyu.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Ezikhethekile Zokulima:

Indawo kanye nokuphakama: ugwadule oluphakeme nezivande zetiye ezindaweni eziphakeme cishe ukusuka ku-1200 kuya ku-1900 m ngaphezu kogu lolwandle; ezinye izingxenye zingaphezulu.
Izixhumanisi: cishe 21.5° N futhi 100.4° E; ugwadule lunwebeka eningizimu-ntshonalanga ukusuka enkabeni yesifunda sase Menghai, ngasemngceleni weMyanmar.
Isimo sezulu: isimo sezulu se-subtropical monsoon, sifudumele futhi sinomswakama, sinokwehlukana okucacile kwesikhathi semvula nesikhathi esomile, nenkungu eningi kanye nomehluko omkhulu wamazinga okushisa emini nasebusuku.
Inhlabathi: inhlabathi ebomvu nenhlabathi ye-laterite, ecebile nge-iron, ene-asidi, egeleza kahle.

Inhlanganisela yokuphakama okukhulu, inkungu, imiphakathi yamahlathi amadala kanye nobuncane bokungenelela ezindaweni eziningi kwakha iqabunga eliminyene elinokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwezinto ezincibilikayo. Yilawa «mandla ezinto ezingavuthiwe» avumela i-pu’er evuthiwe yase Bulangshan ukuthi igcine ukugcwala kwamanzi nokujula ngisho nangemva kokuvutshelwa okujulile.

5. Ubuciko Bokukhiqiza:

Ukukhiqiza kuhlukaniswa izigaba ezimbili: ukuthola impahla eluhlaza kanye nokuvutshelwa okulandelayo nokuminyaniswa.

Ukulungiswa kwe-maocha: iqabunga elisha → ukubuna nokunaba (摊晾) → ukumisa uhlaza ngokufudumeza (杀青, shāqīng) → ukusonga (揉捻, róuniǎn) → ukomisa elangeni (晒干) → impahla eluhlaza ye-shaiqing maocha.
Isigaba esibalulekile — isilinganiso esimanzi: i-maocha iyamaniswa, iqoqwe ibe izilinganiso futhi imbozwe; ngaphansi kwamazinga okushisa nomswakama alawulwayo, ukwanda kokuvutshelwa kwamagciwane okubuswa yisikhunta, ikakhulukazi i-black aspergillus (黑曲霉, hēiqūméi, Aspergillus niger).
Ukuphequlula: isilinganiso sipheqululwa ngezikhathi ezithile (翻堆) ukuze kulinganiswe izinga lokushisa nomswakama; ngaphakathi kwesisindo izinga lokushisa lingakhuphuka lifinyelele ku-50–65 °C.
Ubude besikhathi: umjikelezo wokuvutshelwa ngokuvamile uthatha izinsuku ezingama-40–70 kuye ngeresiphi nezinga elifunekayo lokuvuthwa.
Ukomisa kanye nokuphumula: impahla evutshiwe iyomiswa, ihlelwe ngobukhulu, ivunyelwe ukuthi ihlezi ukuze kususwe amaphunga acijile esilinganiso.
Ukuminyanisa: itiye liyashiswa ngesitimu, libunjwe libe yisiqedlana ngaphansi kwengcindezi, bese lomiswa kancane futhi lipakishwe.

Izinga lokuvutshelwa lilawulwa: itiye elingavutshiwe ngokwanele ligcina ubukhali obuningi namandla okukhula okuqhubekayo, elivuthwe ngokugcwele linoshukela futhi «lilungile» kakade lisemncane.

6. Izimpawu Zomzimba Womqondo:

Iqabunga elomile: isiqedlana esiminyene esimnyama nsundu, umbala oshokoledi-onsundu, ngezinye izikhathi namahlumela asagolide; iphunga lifudumele, linomhlabathi-nokhuni.
Umhluzo: ujulile, usobala, umbala obomvu-onsundu noma wewayini-bomvu; eziqwini ezisezingeni — unokukhanya okucacile.
Iphunga: iphunga elivuthiwe «elidala» (陈香, chénxiāng), amanothi okhuni-nomhlabathi, ngezinye izikhathi amanothi angaphansi kwehlathi, izithelo ezomile, kwezinye izidingo — inothi elimnandi «elirayisi-namathelayo».
Ukunambitheka: kuminene, kunamafutha, kuyagona, kunomzimba ogqamile, okuyisici sezinto ezingavuthiwe zase Bulang; ubumnandi obumnene, ukunambitheka okuhlanzekile ngemuva nobumnandi obubuyayo (回甘, huígān).
Umzimba kanye nokwakheka: kugcwele, umuzwa «omnyinyithayo» emlonyeni (醇厚, chúnhòu), ngaphandle kobumunyu obucijile, okuyisici sohlobo oluluhlaza.
Iqabunga elibilisiwe: limnyama bhuqe, lilungile, linwebeka etiyeni eliphekwe kahle.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali:

Ama-Theabrownin (茶褐素, cháhèsù): akhula ngokuphawulekayo ngesikhathi sesilinganiso, abangela umbala omnyama womhluzo kanye nokuthamba kwawo.
Ama-Polyphenol etiye: ehla kakhulu uma kuqhathaniswa ne-pu’er eluhlaza ngenxa ye-oxidation kanye noshintsho lwamagciwane, okwenza ukuthi ubumunyu obukhulu buhambe.
I-Caffeine: igcinwa ngesilinganiso esipholile, ngokuvamile cishe amaphesenti ambalwa wesisindo sezinto ezomile.
Ama-Polysaccharide: aphakeme uma kuqhathaniswa, ahambisana nomuzwa wobumnandi nobomzimba.
Ama-Amino acid: asetshenziswa ngokwengxenye ngesikhathi sokuvutshelwa.
Imikhiqizo ye-metabolism yamagciwane: i-gallic acid nezinye izinhlanganisela ezakhiwe ngomsebenzi wesikhunta namagciwane.

Iphrofayili enembile incike esiqwini, ezingeni lokuvutshelwa kanye nokuguga okulandelayo, ngakho-ke izibalo eziqondile zesiqedlana esithile kufanele zibhekwe njengezilinganiso eziyizikhombi.

8. Izakhiwo Eziwusizo:

Ubumnene esiswini: i-pu’er evuthiwe ngokwesiko ibhekwa njenge-«fudumele» (温胃, wēnwèi) futhi ibekezeleleka kamnandi kuneluhlaza, ngenxa yokwehla kokuqukethwe kwama-polyphenol asebenzayo.
Usizo ekugayeni ukudla: iphuzwa ngemva kokudla okunamafutha noma okunoshevu ukuzwa ukukhanya.
Umthelela ocwaningiweyo ku-metabolism ye-lipid: kunezifundo ezikhona ezihlobanisa ukuphuzwa njalo kwe-pu’er evuthiwe nomthelela emazingeni e-lipid, nokho imiphumela ayikakwazi ukuthathwa njengeziphetho zezokwelapha eziqinisekile.
Ukuqabuleka okulingene: ngenxa ye-caffeine eseleyo inika umphumela omnene wokuvuselela ngaphandle kokubukhali.

Itiye alilona ikhambi lezokwelapha; ezifweni ezingalapheki kanye nokukhulelwa kunengqondo ukulandela izincomo ezijwayelekile zokuphuzwa kweziphuzo ezine-caffeine.

9. Ukuphisa:

Amanzi: amanzi ahlanzekile athambile, alethwe ekubileni okugcwele, cishe ngo-100 °C.
Isitsha: i-gaiwan (盖碗, gàiwǎn) ukuze kulawuleke iphunga noma i-teapot yobumba oluvela e Yixing (紫砂壶, zǐshāhú), ebushelelezi futhi «iyindilinganisela» ukunambitheka kwe-pu’er evuthiwe.
Isilinganiso: cishe 7–8 g ku-100–150 ml ngobuciko bokuthulula.
Ukugeza: ukuthulula okukodwa noma okubili-«kokugeza» (洗茶, xǐchá) okufushane ngemizuzwana emi-5–10, ukuze kukhukhulwe uthuli futhi «kuvuswe» iqabunga eliminyene; amanzi okuqala ayathululelwa.
Ukuthulula: qala ngokumisa okufushane kakhulu (cishe imizuzwana eyi-8–15), unwebe isikhathi kancane kancane njengoba umhluzo uba buthakathaka.
Inani lokuphisa: isiqedlana esisezingeni eliphezulu simelana nokuthululwa okuyi-10 nangaphezulu, sinikela ukunambitheka kancane kancane.
Ukubilisa: amaqabunga aminene, asenikele amandla awo amakhulu angabiliswa futhi eteapotini emlilweni ophansi ukuze kutholakale umhluzo omnene omnandi.

Iseluleko esisebenzayo: uma itiye liselincane futhi kunephunga lesilinganiso elibonakalayo kulo, ukukhuculula ngokucophelela kanye nokungenisa umoya engxenyeni eqotshiwe izinsuku ezimbalwa ngaphambi kokuphisa kuyasiza.

10. Ukugcinwa:

Izimo: indawo ehlanzekile, eyomile, enomoya, ngaphandle kwephunga langaphandle, kude nokukhanya okuqondile nemithombo yomswakama.
Umswakama namazinga okushisa: aphakathi futhi azinzile; umswakama oweqile usongela isikhunta, ukoma ngokweqile kumisa ukuvuthwa.
Ukupakishwa: ukugoqwa kwephepha lendabuko kanye nethani yoqalo, ukuze kugcinwe isikhathi eside — amabhokisi ekhadibhodi; kufanele kugwenywe ipulasitiki evimbela umoya.
Ukuhlukaniswa namaphunga: i-pu’er imunca kalula amaphunga angaphandle, ngakho-ke igcinwa ihlukanisiwe nezinongo, amakha, ikhishini.

I-pu’er evuthiwe iyaqhubeka nokushintsha kancane ngokuhamba kweminyaka: amaphunga acijile esilinganiso ayahamba, ukunambitheka kuba msulwa, bushelelezi futhi kube mnandi. Ngokungafani nokuluhlaza, ukuguqulwa okumangalisayo akufanele kulindelwe, kodwa ukuguga kuyaphakamisa ngokuphawulekayo ukuphuzeka.

11. Inani Nokukhwabanisa:

Ububanzi bentengo: i-pu’er evuthiwe yase Bulangshan iyatholakala kalula kunamatiye aluhlaza adumile avela emizaneni ethile yogwadule; izindleko zincike kakhulu emvelaphi yezinto ezingavuthiwe, iminyaka yezihlahla, idumela lomkhiqizi nonyaka wokuguga — kusukela eziqedlaneni zefekthri ezinesabelomali esiphansi kuya eziqwini ezibizayo ezivela ezingadini ezindala.
Izindlela ezijwayelekile zokukhohlisa: ukwethula impahla evela kwezinye izifunda njengeyase Bulang; ukunamathisela igama lomzana othile odumile (isibonelo, iLaobanzhang) lapho kungekho bufakazi; ukukhukhumalisa iminyaka yokuguga; ukuthengisa itiye elihlulekile ngokobuciko, «elibiliswe ngokweqile» noma elinesikhunta.
Indlela yokuhlola: qondisa ekuhlanzekeni kwephunga ngaphandle kwephunga lokuntengantenga nesikhunta, ekunambithekeni okuminyene nokunomzimba, eqabungeni elibilisiwe elimnyama nsundu ngokulinganayo ngaphandle kwesilwanyana esinamathelayo, emhluzweni osobala.

Umkhombandlela onengqondo: ukuhlobana okunamandla nomzana omncane osezingeni eliphezulu ngentengo ephansi ngokusolisayo cishe ngaso sonke isikhathi kuwuphawu lwezinto ezingavuthiwe ezixubile noma ezifakwe esikhundleni. Kuthembeke kakhudlwana ukuthenga kubathengisi abaqinisekisiwe, ukuhlola itiye ngokwalo, hhayi nje imibhalo ekhasini lokugoqa, futhi uma kungenzeka ukunambitha isampula ngaphambi kokuthenga isiqedlana siphelele.

12. Amaqiniso Athakaselayo:

Ubumunyu njengophawu lwesazisi: izinto ezingavuthiwe zase Bulang, ikakhulukazi ezivela eLaoman’e, zidume ngobumunyu obugqamile kangangokuthi bubhekwa njengophawu lwemvelaphi; etiyeni elivuthiwe, lawa mandla aphenduka ubunjalo bomzimba.
Abantu nesitshalo: abantu base Bulang babhekwa njengomunye wabantu bakudala abalima itiye, futhi izindawo zabo zokuhlala zivame ukuzungezwa izinsimu zetiye ezindala.
«Ukunambitheka kwase Menghai»: iphrofayili eyaziwayo ye-pu’er evuthiwe yase Menghai abathandi bayihlobanisa nesimo esizinzile samagciwane ezindaweni zasendaweni zokuvutshela.
Iminyaka yobuncane: ngokungafani ne-pu’er eluhlaza, evuthiwe ifaneleka ukuphuzwa cishe ngokushesha ngemva kokukhiqizwa, okuyenza itiye «lansuku zonke» elilula.

Ekuphetheni:

I-Bulangshan shu bing ihlanganisa amasiko amabili anamandla ase Menghai — izinto ezingavuthiwe ezinamandla ezinamaqabunga amakhulu ogwadule oludumile kanye nobuciko bokuvutshelwa okwenziwayo, okuguqula amandla abo ababayo abe umhluzo ominyene, ofudumele, futhi onoshukela. Leli tiye lapho ukuqina kwe-terroir kwase Bulangshan kulinganisela ukuthamba kwe-pu’er evuthiwe, okwenza ukuthi liqondakale kothonela okusha futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo lithakasele umthandi onolwazi.

Ekukhetheni isiqedlana esinjalo, kunengqondo ukugxila ekuhlanzekeni kokuvutshelwa, ubunjalo bomzimba wokunambitheka, kanye nokwala komhluzo, hhayi nje emagameni anomsindo emizaneni ekhasini lokugoqa. Ngokugcinwa okufanele, i-pu’er evuthiwe yase Bulangshan ikhula ngokuthula iminyaka, iba bushelelezi futhi iphuzeke kakhudlwana, futhi ihlala ingenye yezindlela ezithembeke kakhulu zetiye elivutshelwe ngemuva lansuku zonke.

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