Qiānjiāzhài bādá

Endaweni yama-puer ase-Yunnan kunezithombe ezingaziswa ngenani letiye enkomishini, kodwa ngenxa nje yokuthi zikhona — izihlahla zetíye zasendle eziyinsalela eziyizinhloko. Laba ‘bakhosi’ ababili abanjalo — qiānjiāzhài (千家寨) ezintabeni zase-Ailao kanye nesihlahla esiyinhloko sesifunda sase-bādá (巴达) — sebeyizimpawu zokujula kobudlelwano phakathi kwabantu netiye kulezi zindawo kusukela kudala.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa Nokusuka:

• Uhlobo: impahla yasendle nephelele ye-puer yase-Yunnan — izihlahla zetíye zensalela eziyizinhloko phakathi kwezixuku zasendulo (古茶群落).
• Isigaba sokubhalisa: zombili lezi zinto zidlula ezingeni lesigodi (村寨级) ku-Tier B, zimakwe ngesigaba sesihlahla esithi 野生 — esikhula endle.
• I-Qianjiazhai: qiānjiāzhài (千家寨) — Isifunda i-Pu’er (普洱), Isigodi i-Zhenyuan (镇沅), Izintaba zase-Ailao (哀牢山). Kurejista: 普洱·镇沅, Izintaba zase-Ailao, Tier B, isigaba ‘sihlahla sasendle’, iphrofayili ye-野韵 (‘inothi lasendle’).
• I-Bada: isifunda i-bādá (巴达), Isigodi i-Menghai (勐海), Isifunda i-Xishuangbanna — isifunda esifanayo ne-Bulangshan (bùlǎngshān, 布朗山) namadolobhana ayo adumile. Kurejista ibhalwe njenge-巴达(章朗) — exhunywe nedolobhana laseZhanglang, Tier B, isihlahla esithi 古树/野生, iphrofayili ye-山野气, 厚.
• Iyini ‘inkosi yasendle’: ngokuvamile, izihlahla ezingaqondakali eziyizidlakela phakathi kwezixuku zensalela, ezivikelwa kakhulu njengezikhumbuzo zemvelo kunokusetshenziswa njengesisekelo sempatho. Ngokubaluleka okungokomfanekiso okukhulu, zithatha indawo encane kurejista, njengoba akukhulunywa ‘nge-flavour yesigodi’ ezinzileyo, ehwebayo unyaka nonyaka, kodwa ngempahla engavamile, ecishe ifane ncamashi neyasemnyuziyamu.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

• Ukubaluleka kwalezi zindawo ezimbili kusekuqaleni kwendima yazo njengofakazi. Isihlahla sase-Qianjiazhai esinobudala obucishe bube yiminyaka engu-2700 kanye nenhloko yase-Bada eyawa ngo-2012 eneminyaka ecishe ibe ngu-1700 — lokhu kungubufakazi obuphathekayo bokujula komlando wetiye wase-Yunnan, bokuthi isihlahla setíye sakhula kulezi zintaba esikhathini eside ngaphambi kokuvela kokulima itíye ngendlela yamasiko.
• Isihlahla setíye sasendle esiyinhloko (野生茶树王) sase-Qianjiazhai — singesinye sezihlahla ezindala kunazo zonke ezaziwayo zohlobo lwe-Camellia yasendle, futhi ubukhona bayo benza i-Ailaoshan ibe ngenye yezindawo ezibalulekile emephini ‘yomsuka wetíye’.
• Ukuwa kwenhloko yase-Bada ngo-2012 kwaba umcimbi obonakalayo emhlabeni wetiye — omunye ‘wafakazi’ baphilayo abadume kakhulu basendulo yetíye yase-Yunnan wahamba. Lokhu kusikhumbuza ukuthi lezi zikhumbuzo zintekenteke kangakanani nokuthi kungani ukugcizelela kwasuka ekusetshenzisweni kwaya ekuvikelweni.
• ‘Amakhosi asendle’ ahamba nohlangothini olufanayo nolunye uhlangothi oludumile lwerejista — isihlahla soguquko i-邦崴 (Bangwai) e-Lancang enobudala obucishe bube yinkulungwane yeminyaka: ndawonye bakha isikali esiphilayo sokuziphendukela kwemvelo — kusuka kuhlobo lwasendle (Qianjiazhai, Bada) kuye kuhlobo loguquko (Bangwai) kuya ezingadini zamasiko zamadolobhana adumile.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo Kanye Nempahla Eluhlaza:

• Uhlobo lwasendle uma luqhathaniswa nolwetshaliwe: isigaba esithi 野生 kurejista sihlukanisiwe kwesithi 古树 (izihlahla ezindala), 大树 (izihlahla ezinkulu), 过渡型 (uhlobo loguquko) kanye ne-半栽培 (okutshalwe ngokwengxenye). ‘Amakhosi asendle’ akuzona nje izihlahla ezindala kakhulu ezitshaliwe, kodwa abamele izixuku ezikhula endle, ezihluke ngokuziphendukela kwemvelo ezinhlotsheni zamasiko.
• I-Qianjiazhai: kurejista — iyi-野生 (yasendle) emsulwa, ingxenye yomphakathi wehlathi wemvelo; indima ingeyesayensi yezitshalo neyomlando kakhulu kuneyezohwebo.
• I-Bada: isifunda sigcina ubunjalo obumbaxambili — lapha kunezihlahla ezikhula endle, kanye nezingadi zamasiko ezindala (古树/野生), ngakho-ke impahla evela lapha ingathwala kokubili isimo ‘esehlathini’ esigqamile, kanye nobuningi obujwayeleke kakhulu esifundeni.
• Impahla yemiphakathi ezungezile: imvamisa inebhalansi ehlukile, kunezinsimu kakhulu: ubumnandi obuncane ‘besigodi’, ubumnandi obuningi bamaminerali abandayo kanye naleyo nto i-山野气.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokutshala:

• I-Qianjiazhai: indawo enesimo sezulu esibandayo esiphakeme, ukwehla nokukhuphuka kokuphakama, kanye nehlathi lokuqala elisalondoloziwe — yilezi zimo eziyenza izihlahla zetíye zasendle ziphile zize zifinyelele eminyakeni yobudala ebalwa ngenkulungwane yeminyaka. Ngokungafani nezihlahla zamasiko ezikhule ngaphansi kwesandla somuntu, isihlahla sase-Qianjiazhai siyingxenye yomphakathi wehlathi wemvelo.
• Isimo Sokuvikelwa: ‘Amakhosi asendle’ ayavikelwa, futhi ukukhiwa kweqabunga ezinhlokweni ngokwazo akuvunyelwe, noma kunqunyelwe ngokuphelele — ngakho-ke ‘itíye lesihlahla senkosi’ ngomqondo oqinile cishe alikho emakethe.

6. Izici Ze-Organoleptic:

• Iphrofayili yamatiye anjalo ichazwa ngokufushane nangokubonakala kalula: 山野气 — ‘umoya wehlathi nezintaba’, ubuningi bokuphisa (厚) kanye ne-野韵 — ‘i-aftertaste yasendle’ exegayo.
• I-Qianjiazhai: ukugcizelela ku-野韵 (i-aftertaste yasendle).
• I-Bada: 山野气 (umoya wehlathi nezintaba) kanye nobuningi (厚).
• ‘I-aftertaste yasendle’ (野韵) kanye ‘nomoya wehlathi nezintaba’ (山野气) — lokhu kuwumndeni wezinto ezizwakalayo ezaziwayo kubathandi: ithoni epholile, yasehlathini, ‘yasendle’ kancane, umuzwa wokujula nobuningi bokuphisa (厚), okuvezwa hhayi kumakha angaphambili, kodwa kungqimba nasekungcoleni okuhlala isikhathi eside.

9. Ukuphisa:

• Njengoba kukhulunywa ngempahla yasendle nephelele, kufanele kugxilwe ezinkombeni zephrofayili yerejista: 野韵 (Qianjiazhai) kanye ne-山野气, 厚 (Bada).
• Impahla enjalo, ngokuvamile, idinga indlela enenhlonipho, engasheshi: amaphisa avumela ubuningi ukuthi buvezwe kancane kancane, nokunaka i-aftertaste, okuyilapho ‘inothi’ lasendle lihlala khona.

11. Intengo Nemikhiqizo Yomgunyathi:

• Itíye langempela ‘lesihlahla senkosi ngokwaso’ cishe alikho, kanti impahla evela emiphakathini yasendle ezungezile ayivamile futhi ayifani. Ngakho-ke, kunengqondo ukuphatha ngokuqapha noma imuphi umkhiqizo onegama elizwakalayo elithi 千家寨 noma 巴达.
• Isimo esiyindida: ngenani elikhulu elingokomfanekiso, zombili lezi zinto zimi kurejista ku-Tier B — ukubaluleka kwazo kungaphandle kwesikali esivamile ‘se-flavour yesigodi’.

12. Amaqiniso Athokozisayo:

• Indawo endaweni yezindinganiso. Ngaphakathi kothishanhloko locwaningo, ukugredwa kwakhiwe ngokombono: 区级 (izinga lesifunda sokukhiqiza, 产区) → 名山级 (izinga lentaba edumile) → 村寨级 (izinga lesigodi). Kokubili i-Qianjiazhai ne-Bada zimiswe ncamashi ezingeni lesigodi, zihlanganiswe nezifunda zazo — i-Ailao ne-Bada ngokulandelana kwazo.
• Amazinga ngaphakathi kwezinga — kusuka ku-S+ (ukuswelakala okuphezulu nezilinganiso ezisemazingeni) kuya ku-B (amanye amagama). Womabili ‘amakhosi asendle’ afakwe ku-Tier B: izindawo ezihlonishwa ngokujulile, ezibalulekile ngokomlando nangokwesayensi yezitshalo, kodwa akuzona izilinganiso ze-flavour yesigodi ngalendlela i-Lao Banzhang noma i-Bing Dao eyizilinganiso ngayo.
• Indlela yokuzihlukanisa:
  • Indawo. I-Qianjiazhai — Isifunda i-Pu’er (普洱), Isigodi i-Zhenyuan, Izintaba zase-Ailao (哀牢山). I-Bada — i-Xishuangbanna (勐海), isifunda sase-Bada, exhunywe nedolobhana laseZhanglang (章朗).
  • Iminyaka nobudala nekusasa lezinhloko. I-Qianjiazhai — ‘inkosi’ ephilayo yasendle eneminyaka ecishe ibe ngu-2700. I-Bada — isihlahla esineminyaka ecishe ibe ngu-1700, esabhidlika ngo-2012.
  • Uhlobo lwempahla. I-Qianjiazhai kurejista — i-野生 (yasendle) emsulwa. I-Bada — ixubile, 古树/野生, okusho ukuthi kanye nezihlahla zasendle kukhona nezingadi zamasiko ezindala.
  • Iphrofayili. I-Qianjiazhai — ukugcizelela ku-野韵 (i-aftertaste yasendle). I-Bada — 山野气 nobuningi (厚).
  • Isimo. Zombili — i-Tier B yezinga lesigodi: zinkulu ngomlando, kodwa akuzona izilinganiso ‘ze-flavour yesigodi’.
• I-Qianjiazhai ne-Bada zibalulekile hhayi njengomkhiqizo, kodwa njengezikhombisi-ndlela. Zisikhumbuza ukuthi ngale kwemboni yamadolobhana adumile namanani ezindali kunomlando omdala kakhulu — umlando wezihlahla zasendle, eziphile izizukulwane zabantu eziyishumi, kanye nalezo zazo, njengenhloko yase-Bada, esezibe yingxenye yesikhathi esedlule.