Lǎobānzhāng

Uma ngabe i-puerh inesilinganiso sayo esiphakeme samandla, kube yiLao Banzhang — idolobhana elisentabeni iBulan Shan esifundeni saseMenghai, elinikeze itiye isidlaliso esithi «Bānzhāng wáng (班章王)», inkosi yaseBanzhang. Lena i-sheng puerh yentaba eyodwa ebiza kakhulu neyaziwa kakhulu eXishuangbanna, eseyisifanekiso somqondo othi «chá qì (茶气)» — amandla namandla etiye.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa Nemvelaphi:

• Uhlobo: i-sheng puerh (生普, puerh “eluhlaza”).
• Isigaba: i-sheng puerh yentaba eyodwa yezinga eliphezulu (yasedolobhaneni, míngzhài).
• Imvelaphi: idolobhana iLao Banzhang, inkaba yezintaba iBulan Shan (布朗山), isifunda iMenghai (勐海), iXishuangbanna (西双版纳), eningizimu yeYunnan, emngceleni neMyanmar.
• Izinhlobo / Icultivar: i-Yunnan large-leaf assamica, Camellia sinensis var. assamica.
• Isimo kurejista ye-míngzhài (名寨, amadolobhana aqokiwe): isigaba esiphezulu — S+, kulayini owodwa nezinye izilinganiso eziyindlala ezifana neBohetang (薄荷塘), Chawangshu (茶王树), Mansong (曼松) kanye neBing Dao (冰岛老寨).
• Inothi mayelana nokuqanjwa: “I-Lao Banzhang” ayisona isilinganiso esizimele sezinhlobo — yigama ledolobhana (míngzhài) lemvelaphi, futhi ubuqiniso bayo bunqunywa iqiniso lokuvunwa edolobhaneni elithile, hhayi ngenombolo ehlukile ye-GOST.

2. Umlando Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Udumo lweBulan Shan neBanzhang lukhule phezu kwesiko elidala labantu bamaBulang namaHani, ababelima itiye elinamaqabunga amakhulu kulezi zintaba amakhulu eminyaka. Ngenkathi yokudlondlobala kwepuerh yentaba eyodwa ngasekupheleni kwekhulu lama-20 kuya ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-21, iLao Banzhang yaguquka yasuka ekuyitiyeni lendawo yasemaphandleni yaba isifanekiso samandla ezweni lonke kanye ne-sheng yentaba eyodwa ebiza kakhulu. Isidlaliso esithi “inkosi yaseBanzhang” saqinisekisa isimo sedolobhana njengengqophamlando — indawo yokuqala okuchazwa ngayo ‘amandla’ anoma iyiphi enye i-puerh.

Kuyabonakala ukuthi ohlelweni lwamadolobhana aqokiwe, iLao Banzhang nomakhelwane wayo wakwaBulang iLao Man’e bakha iqembu lezigxobo: iLao Banzhang iyisilinganiso samandla nokulinganisela kobuhlungu nokubuya okusheshayo, iLao Man’e yona iyisilinganiso sobuhlungu obumsulwa, obedlulele. Ngokuhlangene zenza “igridi yokunambitha” yayo yonke intaba iBulan Shan.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo Nezinto Ezingavuthiwe:

• Izinto ezingavuthiwe: iLao Banzhang eyisilinganiso iyi-古树 (gǔshù), itiye elivela ezihlahleni ezindala. Kubhekiselwa ohlotsheni olunamaqabunga amakhulu lwe-Yunnan assamica (Camellia sinensis var. assamica).
• Indlela yokulima: izihlahla ezinde ezingadini ezindala, hhayi amasimu amahlahla agundiwe.
• Isistimu yezimpande nobudala: ubudala bezihlahla kanye nesistimu yazo yezimpande, efinyelela emazingeni ajulile enhlabathi, kungenye yezizathu zalokho ‘ukugcwala’ namandla okwehlulela.
• Ukuvuna: ezingadini ezindala kwenziwa ngezandla; umthamo ukhawulelwe yindalo yedolobhana ngokwalo — inani lezihlahla zangempela ezindala lilinganiselwe, okudala ukushoda okungapheliyo nenani eliphezulu.

4. I-Terroir Nezici Zokulima:

Idolobhana iLao Banzhang lisendaweni yezintaba iBulan Shan (布朗山) — enye yezindawo ezisemqoka zetiyi esifundeni iMenghai (勐海) eXishuangbanna (西双版纳), eningizimu yeYunnan, emngceleni neMyanmar. Lena indawo yabantu bakwaBulang (Bùlǎng) namaHani, futhi yilapha lapho kwavela khona elinye lamasiko amadala okulima i-assamica yetiye enamacembe amakhulu eChina.

Iphrofayili yeLao Banzhang ayihlukaniseki nezimo zokumila. Itiye likhula endaweni enobumpofu obusobala bemvelo — izingadi ezindala lapha zigcinwa ehlathini elisezintabeni elingaphazamisekile, ngaphandle kobuchwepheshe obunzulu bezolimo. Inhlanganisela yokuphakama, ukukhanya okusakazekile ngaphansi kombhede, umehluko phakathi kwamazinga okushisa emini nasebusuku, kanye nenhlabathi empofu kodwa evuza kahle ikhipha izinto ezingavuthiwe ezinokugcwala okuphezulu kwezinto ezikhishwayo. Kusuka lapha — ukuminyana kwehlulela kanye nokunambitheka kwangemva okuhlala isikhathi eside, okuyinto abaqoqi bakwazisayo.

Ukuqonda iLao Banzhang kulula lapho ihamba nomakhelwane bayo entabeni:

• ILao Man’e (老曼峨) — idolobhana lasendulo lakwaBulang, isilinganiso sobuhlungu. ‘Itiye layo elibabayo’ elidumile (kǔ chá, 苦茶) linikeza ubuhlungu obedlulele, obuguqukela ku-huí gān (回甘, ubumnandi obubuyayo) obunamandla; kukhona nomugqa ‘omnandi’ (tián chá, 甜茶).
• ISin Banzhang (新班章) — idolobhana labantu bakwaHani eduze; itiye linamandla, kodwa lithambile kancane kuneLao Banzhang.
• IBanpen (班盆) — liseduze kakhulu neLao Banzhang futhi ngephrofayili lisondele kakhulu kuyo, lisamthambile; livame ukubhekwa njengenye indlela efinyelelekayo.

Lesimomondiya sibalulekile: ukusondela kweBanpen neSin Banzhang emingceleni yeziza zeLao Banzhang kwenza udaba lobuqiniso nokuhlanganiswa kabusha libe bucayi kakhulu (bheka isigaba 11).

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

ILao Banzhang iyi-sheng puerh (生普, puerh “eluhlaza”), futhi ukuyicwenga kwayo kulandela uhlelo lakudala lokukhiqiza i-máochá (毛茶, umkhiqizo osakazekile ongakaqedi) wokugcina icindezelwe:

1. Ukuvunwa kweqabi elisha ezihlahleni ezindala.
2. Ukubunisa (wěidiāo, 萎凋) — ukulahlekelwa umswakama kancane.
3. Ukuqinisa / ‘ukubulala uhlaza’ (shāqīng, 杀青) — ukufudumeza ikhasi ukumisa i-oxidation; ngokwesiko le-puerh lokhu kwenziwa ngendlela yokuthi kugcinwe ama-enzyme aphilayo ukuze kwenziwe ukuvutshelwa okude okwengeziwe lapho selicindezelwe.
4. Ukusonga (róuniǎn, 揉捻) — ukukhubazeka kwamangqamuzana nokukhululwa koju.
5. Ukomiswa elangeni (shàiqīng, 晒青) — isigaba esibalulekile se-puerh: ukomiswa elangeni, okunikeza izinto zokusetshenziswa ‘zelanga’ eziyisici, i-shàiqīng máochá.

I-máochá etholiwe icindezelwa ibe amaqebelengwane (bǐng, 饼), izitini noma ezinye izimo bese ikwazi ukuvuthwa iminyaka eminingi. Okuqukethwe okuphezulu kwe-polyphenol nezinto ezikhishwayo ezintweni ezingavuthiwe zeLao Banzhang yikho okwenza ifiseleke ukugcinwa isikhathi eside: itiye elincane linamandla futhi libukhali, kodwa linamandla okuguquka iminyaka namashumi eminyaka.

I-Puerh njengesigaba ilawulwa izinga likazwelonke le-PRC le-puerh (igama lendawo lihlanganisa izifunda eziqokiwe zaseYunnan, kuhlanganisa neMenghai), elihlukanisa i-puerh ibe yi-sheng (生) kanye ne-shu (熟) futhi liqinisa izidingo zezinto ezingavuthiwe ezivela ku-Yunnan large-leaf assamica kanye nobuchwepheshe. ILao Banzhang kulolu hlelo iyi-sheng puerh yengxenye yezinga eliphezulu yentaba eyodwa.

6. Izici Zokunambitheka Kwemvelo:

Iphrofayili yeLao Banzhang kurejista ichazwe kafushane nangokunembile: 茶气最足 (amandla aphezulu), 霸气 (ukubusa, amandla “abusayo”), 苦涩重→回甘持久 (ubuhlungu obugqamile nokubaba, okuguqukela kubumnandi obubuyayo obuhlala isikhathi eside), 蜜香 (iphunga elimnandi loju).

Lokhu kusho ukuthini enkomishini:

• Ukuhlasela. Ihlulela liminyene, ligcwele, linobuhlungu obuzwakalayo (kǔ) nokubaba (sè). Lokhu akulona iphutha, kodwa kuyisiginesha yesitayela — amandla athulwa ngaso leso sikhathi.
• Ukuguqulwa. Idrama enkulu yeLao Banzhang — isesivinini nasemandleni e-huí gān: ubuhlungu abuhlali isikhathi eside, kodwa busheshe buthathelwe indawo ubumnandi obujulile obubuyayo kanye nokukhiqizwa kwamathe (shēng jīn).
• Iphunga. Amathoni anambitheka njengoju (mì xiāng) ngaphansi kokuminyana okujwayelekile.
• Umzimba ‘ne-qi’. Umuzwa wamandla (chá qì) — yilokho okwenza leli tiye libe yisilinganiso: ukugcwala emlonyeni, ‘ubunjalo bomzimba’ obufudumele besiphuzo, ukunambitheka kwangemva okuhlala isikhathi eside emphinjeni.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali:

• Izinto ezikhishwayo: ukuminyana okuphezulu, okubangelwa i-terroir (ukuphakama, umehluko wamazinga okushisa, inhlabathi empofu evuza kahle) kanye nezinto ezingavuthiwe zezihlahla ezindala; kunikeza ukuminyana kwehlulela nokunambitheka kwangemva okuhlala isikhathi eside.
• Ama-Polyphenol: okuqukethwe okuphezulu kwama-polyphenol nezinto ezikhishwayo ezintweni ezingavuthiwe — kuyisisekelo samandla okugcinwa isikhathi eside nokuvuthwa iminyaka eminingi.

8. Izinzuzo Zezempilo:

Okuqukethwe okwalesi sigaba akukho emthonjeni.

9. Ukuphisa:

Izincomo zokuphisa (umkhuba ojwayelekile we-sheng yezihlahla ezindala):

• Izitsha: Ukuphisa ngokuthelela (gōngfū) nge-gaiwan noma ngetiye le-Yixing.
• Amanzi: Athambileyo, abilayo cishe ngo-95 – 100 °C — izinto ezingavuthiwe zezihlahla ezindala zimelana nezinga lokushisa eliphezulu.
• Umthamo: Ukufakwa okugcwele uma kuqhathaniswa nomthamo wesitsha.
• Isu: Ukugeza kweqabunga kanye nokuthelela kokuqala okusheshayo, bese — ukwelulwa kancane kancane kwesikhathi sokugxilisa. ILao Banzhang esezingeni eliphakeme imelana nokuphisa okuningi, ‘ingabhidlikeli’ ibe yize: ubuhlungu buyahamba, ubumnandi kanye nephunga loju kulokhu kuhlala isikhathi eside.

10. Ukugcinwa:

Itiye elicindezelwe kusuka ku-máochá (amaqebelengwane bǐng 饼, izitini kanye nezinye izimo) liyakwazi ukuvuthwa iminyaka eminingi. Okuqukethwe okuphezulu kwe-polyphenol kanye nezinto ezikhishwayo kwenza iLao Banzhang ifiseleke ukugcinwa isikhathi eside: itiye elincane linamandla futhi libukhali, kodwa linamandla okuguquka iminyaka namashumi eminyaka.

11. Intengo Nokomgunyathi:

ILao Banzhang iyi-sheng yentaba eyodwa ebiza kakhulu futhi ingelinye lamagama e-puerh akopishwa kakhulu; inani eliphezulu nokushoda kwenza udaba lobuqiniso nokuhlanganiswa kabusha libe bucayi kakhulu. Izinkomba zokubona:

1. Isakhiwo sokunambitha, hhayi nje ubuhlungu. Ukulingisa okushibhile kungase kube buhlungu nje. Iphrofayili yangempela — ukuxhumana ‘kokuhlasela okunamandla → i-huí gān esheshayo nenesikhathi eside’ enomzimba ominyene nephunga loju. Ubuhlungu obungaphenduki bube ubumnandi, kuwuphawu oluyisixwayiso.
2. Ukuhlanganiswa kabusha komakhelwane. Ngokuvamile ngaphansi kwegama leLao Banzhang kuthengiswa izinto ezingavuthiwe zaseBanpen naseSin Banzhang — amadolobhana asondelene ngokwendawo futhi ahlobene ngesitayela, kodwa athambe kakhulu futhi afinyeleleka kalula. Ukwazi ukuthi iBanpen ‘isondele, kodwa ithambe’, kusiza ukuhlola ngokucophelela amandla ashiwoyo.
3. I-古树 uma iqhathaniswa nezihlahla ezincane. Isilinganiso — izinto zezihlahla ezindala; ihlulela elivela ezihlahleni ezincane linciphile ngomzimba futhi lifushane ngokunambitheka kwangemva.
4. Imvelaphi nokulandeleleka. Ngokuqaphela ukuthi ubuqiniso bunqunywa iqiniso lokuvunwa edolobhaneni elithile laseBulan Shan, indima esemqoka idlalwa ukwethembeka komphakeli kanye nokubonakala kochungechunge, hhayi ubuhle bokupakishwa.

12. Amaqiniso Athakaselayo:

• ILao Banzhang yaba isifanekiso somqondo othi chá qì (茶气) — amandla namandla etiye, kanye nendawo yokuqala okuchazwa ngayo ‘amandla’ anoma iyiphi enye i-puerh.
• ‘ILao Banzhang’ ngokwayo ayisona isilinganiso esizimele sezinhlobo: yigama ledolobhana (míngzhài) lemvelaphi, futhi ubuqiniso bayo bunqunywa iqiniso lokuvunwa edolobhaneni elithile, hhayi ngenombolo ehlukile ye-GOST.
• ILao Banzhang ihlala iyisimo esiyivelakancane lapho isithunzi sithethelelwa ngokugcwele yi-terroir nezinto ezingavuthiwe: akusiyona into emayelana nokumaketha engabambeki, kodwa idolobhana elithile entabeni iBulan Shan, izihlahla zalo ezindala ezikhipha itiye, okuyilo okusaqhathaniswa nalo umqondo wamandla emhlabeni we-puerh.