chén nián hóng chá

Itiye elibomvu eligugile (陈年红茶, chén nián hóng chá) itiye laseShayina eline-oksidishini ephelele esigabeni 红茶 (hóngchá; ngokwesiko lasentshonalanga libizwa ngegama elithi ‘itiye elimnyama’), eligcinwe isikhathi eside, ngokuvamile iminyaka eminingi. Ngokuphambene nombono ojwayelekile wetiye elibomvu njengesiphuzo okuvame ukuphuzwa sisencane futhi sisha, lapha sikhuluma ngezinto ezingavuthiwe eziguqula kancane ukunambitheka nephunga elimnandi ngokuhamba kweminyaka, zilahlekelwa ubukhali futhi zizuze ubumnene, ukujula, kanye nenothi ‘yokuguga’ eyisici. Uma sikhuluma ngokuqinile, akulona uhlobo lwesitshalo oluhlukile futhi akulona uhlobo lwendawo olulodwa, kodwa isitayela: itiye elibomvu (滇红, 祁门, 正山小种 nokunye), elishiywe ngamabomu ukuthi livuthwe. Indawo yokuzalwa yetiye elibomvu uqobo izintaba zase-Wuyishan (武夷山, wǔyí shān) esifundazweni saseFujian, noma kunjalo, ukuze kugcinwe isikhathi eside, kuvame ukusetshenziswa amatiye amaqabunga amakhulu aseYunnan. Imfashini yetiye elibomvu eligugile isemincane futhi ikhule kakhulu esikweni lokugcina i-puer netiye elimhlophe.

1. Ukwahlukaniswa Nomsuka:

Uhlobo: itiye eline-oksidishini ephelele, isigaba 红茶 (hóngchá, “itiye elibomvu”); ngokwahlukaniswa kwaseNtshonalanga – itiye elimnyama.
Isimo se-ayithi: akulona uhlobo oluzimele, kodwa isitayela – itiye elibomvu eligcinwe iminyaka eminingi ligugile (陈, chén – ‘gugile, elidala’).
Izinto ezingavuthiwe eziyisisekelo: itiye elibomvu eselilungile elivela ezifundeni ezahlukene – 滇红 (diān hóng, Yunnan), 祁门红茶 (qí mén hóng chá, Anhui), 正山小种 (zhèng shān xiǎo zhǒng, Fujian) nokunye.
Ukumiswa ngokomthetho: amatiye abomvu ngokuvamile achazwa uchungechunge lwamazinga kazwelonke e-GB/T 13738; alikho izinga likahulumeni elihlukile letiye elibomvu ‘eligugile’.

Isigaba sinqunywa hhayi umsuka, kodwa inhlanganisela yobuchwepheshe (i-oksidishini ephelele) kanye nokugcinwa okulandelayo. Igama elithi 陈年 (chén nián) lisho ‘iminyaka eminingi, gugile’ futhi ekusebenzeni lisetshenziswa etiyeni elineminyaka emithathu nangaphezulu, noma kunjalo, awukho umkhawulo oqinile weminyaka ngokomthetho. Ngenxa yokuntuleka kwezinga elihlukile, usuku nokuhlolwa kwaleli tiye kuncike kakhulu esithunzini somthengisi kanye nomsuka obhaliwe weqembu.

2. Umlando Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Indawo yokuzalwa yetiye elibomvu: idolobhana laseTongmu (桐木, tóng mù) ezintabeni zaseWuyishan, lapho, ngokwesiko, ngekhulu le-17 kwavela itiye lokuqala elibomvu – 正山小种 (zhèng shān xiǎo zhǒng, lapsang souchong).
I-Keemun: 祁门红茶 (qí mén hóng chá) evela esifundeni saseQimen (祁门县, qí mén xiàn) esifundazweni sase-Anhui yasungulwa cishe ngo-1875; ukuvela kwayo kuhlotshaniswa negama lika-Yu Ganchen (余干臣, Yú Gànchén).
I-Dianhong: 滇红 (diān hóng) – itiye laseYunnan elibomvu, elakhiwa ngo-1938-1939 esifundeni saseFengqing (凤庆, fèng qìng); ukwakhiwa kwalo kuhlotshaniswa nochwepheshe wetiye uFeng Shaoqiu (冯绍裘, Féng Shàoqiú).

Inkambiso engokomlando yetiye elibomvu – ukuphuzwa phakathi nonyaka owodwa kuya kwemibili: kwakukholelwa ukuthi uma ligugile, iphunga elimnandi elikhanyayo liyanyamalala, futhi itiye ngokwalo ‘liyaguga’ ngaphandle kwenzuzo. Intshisekelo ekugugiseni itiye elibomvu ngamabomu – yinto eyenzeka emashumini eminyaka amuva nje, eyavuthwa phezu kwegagasi lokuthandwa kwe-puer endala (老普洱) netiye elimhlophe eligugile (老白茶). Kungaleso sikhathi lapho kwatholakala khona ukuthi ingxenye yamatiye abomvu, ikakhulukazi lawo anamacembe amakhulu avela e-Yunnan, ngokugcinwa okufanele awonakali, kodwa ashintsha aye ohlangothini oluthandekayo. Namuhla, itiye elibomvu eligugile lithatha indawo encane kodwa ebonakalayo esikweni lamatiye aseShayina njengesiphuzo esiqoqwayo futhi ‘esizindlayo’.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo Nezinto Ezingavuthiwe:

Uhlobo: isihlahla setiye i-Camellia sinensis ngezindlela ezimbili eziyinhloko – amacembe amancane naphakathi (Camellia sinensis var. sinensis) kanye namacembe amakhulu (var. assamica, 阿萨姆变种, ā sà mǔ biàn zhǒng).
Okukhethwayo ekugugiseni: izinhlobo zamacembe amakhulu zase-Yunnan (大叶种, dà yè zhǒng) zaziswa ngokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwama-polyphenol nezinto ezikhishwayo, okunikeza inqolobane ‘yokuqina’ yokuvuthwa isikhathi eside.
Izinto ezingavuthiwe zamacembe amancane naphakathi: i-keemun nezinhlobo zase-Wuyishan zinikeza itiye elintekenteke kakhulu futhi elinephunga elimnandi, kodwa, ngokuvamile, ‘elihlala isikhathi esifushane’ lapho ligugiswa.
Indinganiso yokukhiwa: kusuka eqhumeni elinamaqabunga amabili (ematiyeni esezingeni eliphezulu) kuya eqabungeni elimahhadlahhadla, elinikeza ukumnandi okuminyene, ‘okunomzimba’.

Umthetho ojwayelekile: uma izinga lokuqala lama-polyphenol nezinto ezincibilikayo eqabungeni liphakeme, amathuba okuguqulwa kwetiye lapho ligcinwe aba mningi. Ngakho-ke, izinto ezingavuthiwe zamacembe amakhulu zase-Yunnan zibhekwa njengozakwabo ofaneleke kakhulu ukugugiswa, kanti amatiye amahle ezimbaza ngokuhamba kwesikhathi alahlekelwa kunokuba azuze.

4. I-Terroir Nezici Zokutshalwa:

I-Yunnan (云南, yún nán): izifunda zase-Lincang (临沧, lín cāng), Baoshan (保山, bǎo shān), Pu’er (普洱, pǔ ěr), Xishuangbanna (西双版纳, xī shuāng bǎn nà), Dehong (德宏, dé hóng); ukuphakama ukusuka ku-1000 kuye ku-2000 m nangaphezulu.
I-Fujian (福建, fú jiàn): izintaba zase-Wuyishan, isifunda sase-Tongmu – indawo yokuzalwa yama-souchong.
I-Anhui (安徽, ān huī): isifunda sase-Qimen nasezindaweni ezizungezile zase-Huangshan – indawo yokuzalwa ye-keemun.
Izihlahla ezindala: ingxenye yamatiye abomvu ase-Yunnan enziwa ngezinto ezingavuthiwe ezivela ezihlahleni ezindala nezingaphandle kwesiganga (古树, gǔ shù), okwaziswayo kumongo wokuguga.

Indawo enezintaba, umehluko wamazinga okushisa emini nasebusuku, inkungu nokukhanya okuhlakazekile kunomthelela ekuqongeleleni eqabungeni izinto ezinephunga elimnandi nezikhishwayo. Esitayeleni esigugile, i-terroir ibaluleke ngokuphindwe kabili: izinto ezingavuthiwe eziyisisekelo kufanele zigcwale ngokwanele ukuze ngemuva kokugcinwa iminyaka eminingi zingahlali ‘zingenalutho’. Lesi ngesinye sezizathu esenza amatiye abomvu ase-Yunnan asezindaweni eziphakeme avame ukuthunyelwa ekuvuthweni isikhathi eside.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

Ukushabalalisa (萎凋, wěidiāo): ukubuna kweqabunga elisha ukuze kwehliswe umswakama nokulungiselela ukusonteka.
Ukusonteka (揉捻, róuniǎn): ukucekelwa phansi kwamangqamuzana eqabunga nokukhishwa kojusi, ukuqaliswa kwezinqubo ze-oksidishini.
I-Oksidishini (发酵, fājiào): isigaba esiyisisekelo – i-oksidishini ephelele ye-enzayimi ngaphansi kwamazinga okushisa nomswakama alawulwayo; yikhona okwakha ukumnandi okubomvu kanye nephrofayili yama-polyphenol.
Ukomisa (干燥, gānzào): ukuqiniswa kwetiye ngokushisa, ukumiswa kwe-oksidishini, ukulethwa emswakameni ozinzile.
Ukuguga (存放, cún fàng): ukugcinwa kwetiye eselilungile iminyaka eminingi, lapho kwenzeka khona ukuguquka okunohlonze okungenayo i-enzayimi.

Ngokobuchwepheshe, itiye elibomvu eligugile itiye elibomvu elijwayelekile, elilandelwa ‘isigaba sesikhathi’. Lapha kunemininingwane ebalulekile: ukomisa kokugcina ngezinga lokushisa eliphakeme kakhulu kungase ‘kuthose’ itiye kangangokuthi amandla okukhula alahleke. Ngakho-ke, ukuze kugugiswe, amatiye anokomiswa ngokucophelela, okungashiswanga ngokweqile ayakhethwa. Ukuvuthwa uqobo kwenzeka ngaphandle kokubamba iqhaza komuntu, ngenxa yokuguqulwa okunohlonze kwama-polyphenol asele kanye nokusabela kwe-Maillard. Ngokuhlukile, kufanele kwehlukaniswe phakathi kokuguga kwemvelo ‘nokugugisa’ kokufakelwa (做旧, zuò jiù) endaweni enomswakama – lokhu kokugcina akuhlobene netiye eligugile langempela futhi kungokwesigaba somgunyathi.

6. Izimpawu Zokuzwa Ngezitho Zomzimba:

Iqabunga elomile: limnyama, lisuka kunsundu ngokubomvu kuya kucishe kube mnyama, ngokuvamile linokucwebezela okuthulile, ‘okuzolile’; amanothi amasha abukhali ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ayabushelelezi.
Ukumnandi: kubomvu okujulile, ngokukhula – kumnyama kakhudlwana, kugcwele, ngokuvamile kunokukhuluphala okunamafutha.
Iphunga elimnandi: ukusuka emathoni amasha ezimbali-nezithelo kanye noju lwetiye elibomvu elincane kuya ohlangothini lwezithelo ezomisiwe, uju olumnyama, izinkuni, futhi uma kugugiswa isikhathi eside – amanothi ekhambi-okwelashwa (药香, yào xiāng) kanye nephunga ‘lokuguga’ elimnene (陈香, chén xiāng).
Ukunambitheka: kuminyene, kuyindilinga, kunoshukela, nobukhali nokunamathela kwehle ngokuphawulekayo; umuzwa wobumnene ‘nokujula’ esikhundleni sokucijile okunamandla.
Ukunambitheka okusele ngemuva: okude, okufudumele, nobumnandi obubuyayo (回甘, huí gān).

Umehluko oyinhloko wephrofayili egugile kuleyo esha – ukubushelelezi. Itiye elibomvu elincane lihlulelwa ngokucijile, iphunga elimnandi nokuphila; itiye eligugile – ngobumnene, ukuba nomzimba kanye nokuphelela kokunambitheka. Itiye elivuthwe kahle libonakala ‘njengelifudumezayo’ futhi elimbozayo, ngaphandle kwe-asidi enamathelayo enolaka.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali:

Ama-Polyphenol etiye (茶多酚, chá duō fēn): ngokuhamba kweminyaka okuqukethwe okuphelele kwehla kancane kancane, okunciphisa ubukhali.
Ama-Theaflavin (茶黄素, chá huáng sù): abhekene nokukhanya ‘nokubukhali’ kwetiye elincane; ekugugisweni ingxenye yawo iyancipha.
Ama-Thearubigin (茶红素, chá hóng sù): anikeza umbala obomvu nobunjalo bomzimba bokumnandi, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ayaguquka.
Ama-Theabrownin (茶褐素, chá hè sù): ingxenye yawo iyakhula, okwenza ukumnandi kube mnyama kakhulu, futhi ukunambitheka – kube mnene futhi kuminyene.
I-Caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēi jiǎn): iqine ngokuqhathaniswa, ekugcinweni ishintsha kancane.
Ama-Amino acid (氨基酸, ān jī suān): uma kugugiswa isikhathi eside, kancane kancane ayancipha.

Imikhuba enikeziwe inesimo esijwayelekile: izibalo eziqondile zincike kakhulu ezintweni ezingavuthiwe zokuqala, ikhwalithi yokomiswa nezimo zokugcinwa. Ingqikithi yekhemistri yokuguga – ukuguquka kusuka ekuhlanganeni ‘okubukhali’ (ama-theaflavin, ama-polyphenol akhululekile) kuya kokunzima kakhulu futhi okumnene (ama-theabrownin) ngokuguquka okuhambelanayo kwezinto eziguquguqukayo ezinephunga elimnandi. Yilokhu okuchaza ukufiphala kokumnandi nokuthamba kokunambitheka kwetiye elibomvu eligugile.

8. Izinzuzo Zempilo:

Imvelo (性, xìng): itiye elibomvu ngokwesiko lamaShayina libhekwa njengelifudumele (温性, wēn xìng), futhi ukuguga kukhulisa lesi simo ‘sokufudumaza’.
Umnene esiswini: ukuncipha kobukhali ekugugisweni kwenza isiphuzo sibe ntofontofo kakhudlwana kubantu abaningi, kunetiye elincane elibukhali.
Ama-Antioxidant: itiye ligcina ukuhlanganiswa kwama-polyphenol, anomsebenzi we-antioxidant.
Ukuqinisa amandla: liqukethe i-caffeine, ngakho-ke linomthelela ovuselelayo, nakuba linambitheka kamnandi kakhulu kunetiye elisha.

Kufanele usondele kulolu daba ngaphandle kokweqisa: itiye elibomvu eligugile – isiphuzo esimnandi futhi, ngokwemibono yendabuko, esifudumezayo, kodwa ukulihlomisa ngezinto zokwelapha akufanele. Ukubekezelela komuntu ngamunye, ikakhulukazi ukuzwela kwi-caffeine, kuhlala kubaluleke kakhulu kunanoma yikuphi ukuhlanganisa.

9. Ukwenza Itiye:

Izitsha: i-gaiwan (盖碗, gài wǎn) noma i-teapot yobumba evela ebumbeni lwase-Yixing (紫砂壶, zǐ shā hú) enomthamo ongu-110-150 ml.
Amanzi: 95-100 °C; itiye elibomvu eligugile livuleka kahle emanzini abilayo ashisayo.
Umthamo: cishe 5-7 g ku-110-150 ml (cishe 1 g ku-20 ml wamanzi).
Ukuvusa itiye (醒茶, xǐng chá): ukuwasha okukodwa okufushane ngegagasi kwemizuzwana emi-3-5, kuthelwe – kufaneleke ikakhulukazi etiyeni ebeligcinwe isikhathi eside.
Amagagasi: ukumnandi kokuqala kufushane (imizuzwana emi-5-10), bese isikhathi sandiswa kancane kancane; izinto ezingavuthiwe eziqinile nezigugile zimelana namagagasi ayi-8-15 nangaphezulu.
Ukubilisa (煮茶, zhǔ chá): itiye elivuthwe kahle lingaphekwa emlilweni omncane ngemuva kwamagagasi amaningana – le ndlela yembula ukukhuluphala nobumnandi.

Iseluleko esisebenzayo: qala ngokumnandi okufushane nomthamo omncane, ubheke ukuminyana kokumnandi. Itiye elibomvu eligugile liyakwazi ukumelana namanzi abilayo ashisayo, kodwa alikuthandi ukubiliswa ngokweqile emagagasini okuqala – uma kungenjalo ubuhle bephunga elimnandi buyalahleka. Etiyeni elidala kakhulu neliminyene, indlela yokubilisa ivame ukukhethwa kunegagasi elijwayelekile.

10. Ukugcinwa:

Ukomile: umswakama wegumbi kufanele ugcinwe ulingene; umswakama oweqile uholela esikhunjeni nasekonakaleni.
Ukungabikho kwephunga langaphandle: itiye limunca kalula amaphunga, ngakho-ke ligcinwa kude nezinongo, izimonyo namakhemikhali asekhaya.
Ukukhanya nezinga lokushisa: ubumnyama nezinga lokushisa elizinzile legumbi; ukukhanya okuqondile kwelanga nokushintshashintsha okukhulu akufuneki.
Isitsha: amaphakethe aminyene, kodwa ‘aphefumulayo’; umbuzo wokuthi ukugcinwa okuvalwe ngokuphelele noma okungenisa umoya kancane kuhlala kuyisihloko sezingxoxo phakathi kwabasebenzayo.

Ngokuphambene ne-puer, okuye kwavela kuyo indlela ethuthukisiwe yokugcina, akukabikho ukuvumelana okuqinile ‘ngokugugisa okufanele’ kwetiye elibomvu. Umthetho ojwayelekile futhi ongenakuphikiswa munye: ukomile, umoya ohlanzekile nokungabikho kwamaphunga. Ukugcinwa okumanzi ‘nokusheshisayo’ akwamukelekile – kunikeza ithoni ebunukayo, futhi kwesinye isikhathi enesikhunta, okuvame ukuthathwa ngephutha ‘njengokuguga’.

11. Intengo Nemigunyakazi:

Isimo semakethe: ingxenye yetiye elibomvu eligugile iphansi kakhulu futhi ayibonakali kahle kunemakethe ye-puer endala; alukho uhlelo oluthembekile noluzinzile lokuqopha usuku.
Ukunqunywa kwentengo: intengo incike kakhulu ezingeni lokuqala lezinto ezingavuthiwe, iminyaka ebhaliwe kanye nesithunzi somthengisi; ukuhlukahluka kubanzi kakhulu.
Imigunyakazi ejwayelekile: itiye elincane elenziwa sengathi lidala; itiye ‘eligugiswe’ ngokufakelwa endaweni enomswakama (做旧, zuò jiù); ukufakwa kwesikhundla sosuku lokukhiqizwa ephaketheni.
Indlela yokuhlola: iphunga elimnandi elihlanzekile ngaphandle kwephunga lokubuna, isikhunta kanye nomswakama omuncu; ukumnandi okusobala, okungafiphele; phansi kwe-gaiwan – amaqabunga aphelele, anwebekayo abilisiwe, hhayi ‘ukunambitheka’ okuxegayo noma izingcezu ezishiswe ngokweqile.

Ubungozi obuyinhloko lapha – ukuthenga hhayi itiye eligugile, kodwa elonakele noma eligugiswe ngokufakelwa. Ukuguga kwangempela kweminyaka eminingi kunikeza iphunga elimnandi elizolile, elilinganayo nokunambitheka okumnene, kodwa akufanele kunuke njengegumbi elingaphansi komhlaba, isikhunta noma ubumuncu. Isu elihlakaniphile – ukuthenga kubathengisi abakulungele ukukhuluma ngobuqotho ngomsuka nonyaka weqembu, futhi uma kungenzeka, ukunambitha ngaphambi kokuthenga. Emaqenjini ‘adala ngokukhethekile’ anentengo ephansi ngendlela esolisayo, kufanele aphendulwe ngokungabaza.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

Ukushintsha kwendlela yokucabanga: ngokwesiko itiye elibomvu lalibhekwa ‘njengephuzo lesizini-ntwasahlobo eyodwa noma ezimbili’, futhi umqondo uqobo wokugugisa uhambisana nokuphikisana nomkhuba wakudala wokuliphuza lisha.
Isiko elibolekiwe: imfashini yetiye elibomvu eligugile ikhule kakhulu emikhubeni yokugcina i-puer netiye elimhlophe, hhayi esikweni elidala layo.
Intandokazi yase-Yunnan: 滇红 (diān hóng) enamacembe amakhulu ivame ukuthunyelwa ekugugisweni ngenxa yenqolobane yama-polyphenol nokukhishwa.
Ukudideka kwamagama: ‘itiye elimnyama’ laseYurophu kanye ne-红茶 lesiShayina (‘itiye elibomvu’) – yinto efanayo; ngesikhathi esifanayo, igama lesiShayina elithi 黑茶 (hēi chá, ‘itiye elimnyama’) lisho esinye isigaba esihluke ngokuphelele – amatiye amnyama agayiwe ngemuva, okuyiwo i-puer ewukhona.

Ekuphetheni:

Itiye elibomvu eligugile – inkambiso entsha futhi enesilingo esikhulu sezami yesiko lamatiye aseShayina, lapho itiye elibomvu elijwayelekile libhekwa hhayi njengesiphuzo ‘samanje’, kodwa njengezinto ezingavuthiwe ezikwazi ukushintsha ngokuhamba kweminyaka. Laziswa ngobumnene, ukuminyana nokujula okuzolile, okuza esikhundleni sokucijile nokuphila kwetiye elincane: ubukhali buyehla, ukumnandi kufiphala, ephungeni elimnandi kuvela amathoni ezithelo ezomisiwe, uju olumnyama, izinkuni ‘nokuguga’ okuncane.

Ngaso leso sikhathi, kubalulekile ukugcina ukuhluzeka kwengqondo. Ukuntuleka kwezinga elihlukile nokungavuthwa kwemakethe kwenza le ngxenye ibe sengcupheni yokwenziwa kwemigunyakazi ‘nokugugiswa’ kokufakelwa, futhi akulona lonke itiye elibomvu ngokuyisisekelo elizuzayo ekugcinweni. Inkombandlela engcono kakhulu – izinto ezingavuthiwe eziyisisekelo ezisezingeni (ikakhulu amatiye amaqabunga amakhulu ase-Yunnan), ukugcinwa okomile nokuhlanzekile kanye nomthengisi othembekile, okulungele ukuqinisekisa umsuka weqembu. Ngaphansi kwalezi zimo, itiye elibomvu eligugile liyavuleka njengesiphuzo esiyingqayizivele futhi esikhuthaza ukunganaki isikhathi.

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