shēng shú

I-Puer ikhona ngezinhlobo ezimbili ezihluke ngokuyisisekelo — i-shēng chá (生茶) “eluhlaza” kanye ne-shú chá (熟茶) “evuthiwe”. Umngcele ophakathi kwazo — akusilo uhlobo lweqabunga futhi akusona isifunda, kodwa ingxenye eyodwa yobuchwepheshe eyagcina isimile ngo-1973, lapho eKunming Tea Factory benza ngcono indlela yokuvutshelwa okusheshisayo okuncane okubizwa nge-渥堆 (wò duī).

Isisekelo Esifanayo: 晒青毛茶

Ukuze uqonde umehluko phakathi kwe-shēng ne-shú, kufanele uqale kulokho okuhlanganisayo, — okungukuthi impahla eluhlaza. Zombili lezi zinhlobo zenziwa ngomkhiqizo owodwa ongakapheleliswa, obizwa nge-shài qīng máo chá (晒青毛茶), okusho ukuthi “itiye elimahhadlahhadla elomiswe elangeni”.

Uchungechunge lokukhiqiza lwayo lumi kanje: iqabunga elisha lohlobo lwaseYunnan olunamaqabunga amakhulu (云南大叶种) liyamiswa ngokushisa kubizwa nge-杀青 (shā qīng), bese kusongwa kubizwa nge-揉捻 (róu niǎn), futhi ekugcineni, lomiswe elangeni kubizwa nge-晒干 (shài gān).

Into esemqoka futhi engaqondakali kalula lapha — yindlela yokumisa ngokushisa kanye nohlobo lokomisa. Ngokungafani netiye eliluhlaza, lapho i-杀青 kwenziwa ngezinga lokushisa eliphezulu ukuze kungasebenzi ngokuphelele ama-enzyme, ku-puer ukumiswa ngokushisa kwenziwa ngezinga lokushisa eliphansi: kumane nje kubambezele i-oxidation, kodwa kulondoloze ingxenye yama-enzyme futhi, okubaluleke nakakhulu, kugcine amagciwane emvelo eqabungeni. Ukomiswa kwenzeka elangeni, hhayi eziko (烘) futhi akukho e-panini eshisayo (炒).

Yilokhu okuyikona okwenza i-晒青毛茶 ibe yisisekelo se-puer. Ukomiswa eziko noma nge-pani, njengakwitiye eliluhlaza, bekuzobulala amandla amagciwane kanye nama-enzyme — futhi le mpahla ibingeke iphinde ibe i-puer, noma ngabe ingalala isikhathi esingakanani kamuva. Ngakho-ke, itiye laseYunnan eliluhlaza elomiswe elangeni aliyi ku-bulk yokuthumela ngaphandle eluhlaza, kodwa liya ngqo ekukhiqizweni kwe-puer: linamandla okuqhubeka nokuguquka.

Iwehlukana: Ukuvuthwa Kwemvelo noma i-渥堆

Kusukela kumkhiqizo ongakapheleliswa ofanayo, izindlela ziyahlukana.

生茶 (i-puer eluhlaza). I-Maocha iyashiswa ngesitimu bese icindezelwa ibe amabhanqa (饼), izitini (砖) noma izidleke ze-tuo (沱), ngemva kwalokho itiye liyathunyelwa ekuvuthweni kwemvelo endaweni eyomile (干仓) — iminyaka. Ukuguqulwa kwamagciwane kanye ne-oxidative kwenzeka kancane, kancane kancane kuguqula ukunambitheka kusuka kokubukhali nokuluhlaza kuye kokuthambile nokujulile. Lona umgomo wakudala othi 越陈越香 — “indala, inuka kamnandi ngokwengeziwe”.

熟茶 (i-puer evuthiwe). Lapha i-maocha iqala ngokudlula ku-渥堆 — inqwaba emanzi, lapho ngosizo lwamanzi, ukushisa kanye namagciwane (ikakhulukazi i-black aspergillus 黑曲霉, Aspergillus niger) ukuvutshelwa kusheshiswa ngokokwenziwa. Inqubo ithatha cishe izinsuku ezingama-40 – 60, ngokuphendulwa kwenqwaba njalo (翻堆) ukuze kulawulwe izinga lokushisa nomswakama. Ngemva kwalokhu kulandela ukuvutshelwa okwengeziwe (后发酵), futhi ngemva kwalokho itiye liyashiswa ngesitimu bese licindezelwa. Umphumela — itiye elilungele ukuphuzwa lisemancane, ngaphandle kweminyaka eminingi yokulindiswa.

Ngamanye amazwi, i-shú chá — iwumzamo wokukhiqiza ngenyanga eyodwa nengxenye kuya kwezimbili lokho i-shēng chá efinyelela kukho ngamashumi eminyaka.

Kungani Ingxabano Yayidingeka

Ngaphambi kweminyaka yawo-1970 umphumela “ovuthiwe” wawufinyelelwa ngezindlela ezimbili kuphela: ukuvuthwa kwemvelo kwe-puer eluhlaza okweminyaka eminingi, noma “indawo emanzi” (湿仓) enolaka, eyayenziwa eHong Kong, lapho umswakama ophezulu wawusheshisa ukuguqulwa. Zombili izindlela zazihamba kancane, zilawuleka kabi futhi zingabikezeleki ngomphumela.

Imakethe — ikakhulukazi i-Hong Kong kanye nezwe langaphandle — yayidinga itiye eliphuzeleka ngokushesha: elithambile, elimnyama, ngaphandle kobukhali obuluhlaza be-shēng encane. Umsebenzi wawuwukufunda ukuthola iphrofayili “evuthiwe” ngendlela elawulekayo futhi esheshayo.

1973: Ukuzalwa kwe-渥堆熟茶

Unyaka oguquguqukayo kwaba ngu-1973. E-Kunming Tea Factory (昆明茶厂) ithimba elaliholwa ngu-Wú Qǐyīng (吴启英) ngemva kohambo oluya esifundazweni sase-Guangdong, lapho kwakusetshenziswa khona isu elithi “发水” (ukumanzisa itiye), lenza ngcono ubuchwepheshe be-渥堆 — ukuvutshelwa okulawulwayo okusheshisiwe okuncane.

Kwakuyiyona ngxabano leyo: ngokokuqala ngqa “ukuvuthwa” kwayeka ukuba ngumphumela wokuguga okuzenzakalelayo futhi kwaba inqubo yokukhiqiza ekwazi ukuphindaphindeka.

Kakade ngo-1975 kwavela i-puer evuthiwe eyisibonelo. Imikhiqizo emibili yaba yizilinganiso:

• 7572 — ibhanqa elivuthiwe le-Menghai factory (勐海);
• 7581 — isitini esivuthiwe se-Kunming factory.

Ngaleso sikhathi kwagxilwa uhlelo lokumaka i-唛号 (mài hào) — amakhodi eresiphi, afaka ikhodi yonyaka wokuthuthukiswa kweresiphi, ibanga lempahla eluhlaza kanye nenombolo yefekthri.

Umuntu oqavile kulo mlando — ngu-Zōu Bǐngliáng (邹炳良) wase-Menghai factory, obizwa “nguyise wetiye elivuthiwe” (熟茶之父) ngokwenza u-渥堆 ube yinkambiso yobuchwepheshe. Kamuva, ngo-1999, wasungula eyakhe imboni i-海湾/老同志.

销法沱: Ingqopha-mlando Yokuthumela Ngaphandle

Ngokuhambisana nalokho, ukuvutshelwa okusheshisiwe kwavula indlela ye-puer eya eNtshonalanga. Ngo-1976 i-Xiaguan factory (下关) yakhiqiza i-xiāo fǎ tuó (销法沱) — i-tuo evuthiwe, eyayihloselwe ukuthunyelwa eFrance. Leli kwaba ngelinye lamatiye okuqala aseShayina athola eNtshonalanga isitifiketi sokuba “yi-organic”.

Igama ngokwezwi nezwi lisho “i-tuo yokuthengisela eFrance” futhi laqinisa isimo salo mkhikizo njengephayona lemakethe yaseYurophu.

Ukunambitheka Nokwenza Itiye

Umehluko kubuchwepheshe uqhubekela ngqo ekunambithekeni.

I-shēng encane — iyagqama, iyavuselela, inephunga eliluhlaza nelimbali, ukubaba (苦) nokuklabha (涩) okuzwakalayo, okuncipha ngokuhamba kweminyaka. I-shēng evuthiwe iba ngujulile, inamathoni ezithelo ezomisiwe, zokhuni kanye “nendawo endala”.

I-熟茶 — inhluzi emnyama enombala onsundu ngokubomvu noma cishe omnyama, ithambile futhi iyindilinga, inamathoni omhlabathi, okhuni, ngezinye izikhathi amantongomane nezinsuku, ngaphandle kokubaba kwetiye eliluhlaza elincane. Iphrofayili ebhekwa njengeyisilinganiso yi-勐海味 — “ukunambitheka kwaseMenghai”, okuphenduke induku yeso yayo yonke ingxenye.

I-puer evuthiwe iyakuthethelela amanzi abilayo awohlokayo kanye nokufaka okuminyene; kulula ukuyenza ngokuphindaphinda endishini enesivalo (gaiwan) noma egedleleni le-Yixing, kanti ukuphindwa kokuqala okufushane kuvame ukuchithwa ukuze kuhlanzwe iqabunga elicindezelwe.

Isimanjemanje

Namuhla i-shú chá — iyingxenye emangalisayo yetiye “elilungele ukuphuzwa”, elingadingi ukulindwa isikhathi eside. Kuyo kwakhula nohlobo oluhlukile lwe-柑普 / 小青柑 — i-puer evuthiwe esemgodleni wekhasi le-mandarin elivuthiwe lase-Xinhui (新会陈皮), eladlondlobala ngeminyaka yawo-2010.

Indlela Yokuhlukanisa I-Sheng ku-Shu

• Umbala weqabunga elomile. Kweye-shēng — kusuka kokuluhlaza okumpunga kuye kokunsundu ngokukhula; kweye-shú — kunsundu ngokumnyama okufanayo, kucishe kube mnyama.
• Umbala wenhluzi. Eluhlaza linika inhluzi ephuzi ngokugqamile noma (ngokuvuthwa) enombala we-amber; elivuthiwe — inhluzi ejiyile ebomvu ngokunsundu, emnyama ngokungabonisi.
• Ukunambitheka. Ukubaba, ukuklabha kanye nokuluhlaza okusha kukhomba ku-shēng; ukuthamba, ukunambitheka komhlabathi kanye nokungabi bikho kobukhali kukhomba ku-shú.
• Iminyaka kanye nengqondo. I-puer eluhlaza yaziswa ngekhono layo lokuguga nokuba ngcono ngeminyaka; elivuthiwe ekuqaleni lenzelwe ukuphuzwa ngokushesha.
• Umsuka wobuchwepheshe. Noma iyiphi i-puer evuthiwe — iyindlalifa ka-1973: ngaphandle kwe-渥堆 bebengeke ibe khona nje. I-puer eluhlaza ngakolunye uhlangothi indala kunesikhathi sezimboni ngokuyisisekelo sayo.

Into esemqoka okufanele uyigcine engqondweni: i-shēng ne-shú — akulona “elincane nelidala” itiye elifanayo, kodwa amagatsha amabili ahlukene, ahlukana endaweni eyodwa yenqubo yobuchwepheshe. Futhi leyo ndawo — inqwaba ye-渥堆, eyenziwa ngcono e-Kunming ngo-1973.