mòjiāng yúnzhēn

Itiye eluhlaza lase-Yunnan eliyivelakancane elinomumo wokubunjwa kwenalithi, lapho uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu yúnnán dàyèzhǒng lungagazingwa ngokwevamile kwesifunda, kodwa lufakwe umusi — indlela engavamile e-China yezwekazi. Umphumela — “izinalithi” ezizacile eziqondile ezinomlingiswa omnene, ‘ohlaza okotshani’, okwenza i-Mojiang Yunzhen yehluke ngokuphawulekayo kumatiye ajwayelekile aluhlaza ase-Dian.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

• Uhlobo: itiye eluhlaza
• Isigaba: itiye “lase-Yunnan elinesitimu samaqabunga amakhulu esimise okwenalithi” (云南蒸青 大叶针形)
• Imvelaphi: Isifunda sase-Mojiang (墨江) eningizimu yesifundazwe sase-Yunnan — izindawo eziphakeme ezishisayo zebhande letiye eliseningizimu-ntshonalanga
• Uhlobo/I-cultivar: uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu ase-Yunnan (yúnnán dàyèzhǒng, 云南大叶种)

Itiye livela esifundeni sase-Mojiang (墨江) eningizimu yesifundazwe sase-Yunnan. Lena indawo yezindawo eziphakeme ezishisayo zebhande letiye eliseningizimu-ntshonalanga, lapho inhlanganisela yokuphakama, isimo sezulu esinomswakama, nokukhanya okuhlakazekile phezu kwemithambeka yezintaba kudala izimo zokunqwabelana kancane kwezakhi eqabungeni. Yileli qoqo eliseningizimu-ntshonalanga (西南) okuyingxenye yalo izitayela ezidumile ezingomakhelwane — kusukela kumatiye aluhlaza ase-Sichuan nase-Guizhou kuya kumadiānlǜ (滇绿) angempela ase-Yunnan. Ngokwalesi simo esizungezile, i-Mojiang Yunzhen ithatha indawo ehlukile: “itiye lase-Yunnan elinesitimu samaqabunga amakhulu esimise okwenalithi” (云南蒸青 大叶针形).

Isimo sempahla eluhlaza yendawo sinqunywa ngokuyinhloko yisisekelo sohlobo kanye nokwakheka kwesihlahla okunamaqabunga amakhulu — okufana ncamashi nalokho okuyisisekelo se-puer ne-Dianhong ebomvu. Ukudluliswa kwaleli qabunga elinamandla, eligcwele ama-polyphenol esimweni setiye eluhlaza elicwengekile kwakha umdlandla wobuchwepheshe walesi sitayela.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

I-Mojiang Yunzhen ingumkhiqizo wokuhlangana kwamasiko amabili. Elokuqala — isiko lokufaka isitimu itiye eluhlaza lase-China jikelele, okuyindlela endala kunazo zonke yokulungisa ukuhlaza, okwathi ezwenikazi lase-China cishe yathathelwa indawo ukugazinga, kodwa yagcinwa ezitayeleni ezithile zendawo. Elesibili — isikole samaqabunga amakhulu sase-Yunnan, ‘indlu yokhokho’ bayo okuyimpahla eyomiswa elangeni ye-puer ne-Dianhong ebomvu egcwele.

Igama letiye ngokwalo lakhelwe kuhlu olunothile lwezitayela eziluhlaza zase-Yunnan. Eduze kwalo kunamanye amatiye aluhlaza ase-Yunnan anamacembe amancane ‘anephunga eliphakeme’ ayivelakancane — i-Baohongcha (宝洪茶) yase-Yiliang, efana ne-Longjing, ne-Shilixiang (十里香) yakudala yase-Kunming, okwathiwa ngayo “ukuphuza itiye — phuza i-Shilixiang” (喝茶要喝十里香). Ngokwalesi simo, i-Mojiang Yunzhen imele elinye igatsha — hhayi elinamaqabunga amancane anephunga, kodwa elinamaqabunga amakhulu elinesitimu, futhi ngenxa yalokho liyigugu njengesibonelo sokuhlukahluka kwezobuchwepheshe esifundeni.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo kanye Nempahla Eluhlaza:

Isisekelo — uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu ase-Yunnan (yúnnán dàyèzhǒng, 云南大叶种). Lezi izihlahla ezinamaqabunga abanzi, ezikhula ngamandla ezinoqumbe olukhulu nolunamanzi kanye nokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwezinto ezikhishwayo. E-Yunnan, impahla enjalo ivame ukuqondiswa ekomisweni elangeni (晒青) ukuze kamuva iguqulwe ibe yi-puer noma ivutshelwe ibe itiye elibomvu: uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu lukhipha umhluzo ojiyile, ‘oqinile nonamandla’ (浓强) futhi ubekezelela ukugalelwa kaningi.

Ukusetshenziswa kwalolu hlobo lufana etiyeni eluhlaza — ngokwako okuwuphawu lwendlela yase-Yunnan: ngokungafani nezinhlobo zamacembe amancane zasenkabeni nasempumalanga ye-China, iqabunga elikhulu liphethe ama-tannin amaningi futhi ngalokho lidinga ubumnene obukhethekile esigabeni sokulungisa ukuhlaza, ukuze ‘kungabi buhlungu’ ukunambitheka. Ku-Mojiang Yunzhen, lo msebenzi uxazululwa ngokukhethwa kwendlela yesitimu.

Impahla eluhlaza yamaqoqo angcono kakhulu ivame ukuqoqwa ngaphambi kwe-Qingming (明前, míngqián) — lesi yisigaba setiye “elihloniphekile nelikhethekile” (名优), okusho ukuvunwa kwasekuqaleni kwentwasahlobo ngoqumbe omncane neqabunga lokuqala.

4. I-Terroir Nezici Zokutshalwa:

Isifunda sase-Mojiang sisendaweni ephakeme eshisayo yebhande letiye eliseningizimu-ntshonalanga, lapho inhlanganisela yokuphakama, isimo sezulu esinomswakama, nokukhanya okuhlakazekile phezu kwemithambeka yezintaba kudala izimo zokunqwabelana kancane kwezakhi eqabungeni. Yileli qoqo eliseningizimu-ntshonalanga (西南) okuyingxenye yalo izitayela ezidumile ezingomakhelwane — kusukela kumatiye aluhlaza ase-Sichuan nase-Guizhou kuya kumadiānlǜ (滇绿) angempela ase-Yunnan.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

Isici esiyinhloko se-Mojiang Yunzhen — ukulungiswa kokuhlaza ngesitimu (蒸青, zhēngqīng). Le yindlela endala kunazo zonke e-China yokumisa ama-enzyme e-oxidative eqabungeni elisha: esikhundleni ‘sokubulala ukuhlaza’ ekhanjini elishisayo (炒青, chǎoqīng), iqabunga liphathwa kafushane ngesitimu. Ukulungiswa ngesitimu kugcina ithoni ‘eluhlaza’, efana notshani obusha kanye nombala ogcwele oluhlaza weqabunga, njengoba inqubo yenzeka kancane futhi ngaphandle komphumela wokugazinga.

Namuhla e-China, itiye eluhlaza elinesitimu liyivelakancane kakhulu: iningi elikhulu lamatiye aluhlaza adumile ezweni lenziwa ngokugazinga (炒青) noma ukomiswa ngomoya oshisayo (烘青, hōngqīng). Ngakho-ke, i-Mojiang Yunzhen ime yodwa njengomunye wabathwali abambalwa abaphilayo besikole sesitimu — futhi okungavamile nakakhulu ukuthi lesi sikole sisetshenziswe eqabungeni elikhulu lase-Yunnan.

Isici sesibili esinqumayo — isimo. Ngemuva kokulungiswa, amaqabunga ayasongwa futhi abunjwe abe izinalithi ezizacile eziqondile (针形, zhēnxíng), okuvela lapho igama ‘inalithi yaseyun’ (云针, yúnzhēn): uhlamvu 云 (yún, ‘ifu’) libhekisa e-Yunnan nasendaweni ephakeme ‘enamafu’, kanti u-针 (zhēn) ubhekisa ekubunjweni okuyinalithi. Ukumiswa okuyinalithi kwenza leli tiye lihlobane nezinye ‘izinalithi’ zaseningizimu-ntshonalanga nasenyakatho-ntshonalanga — isibonelo, i-Banan Yinzhen (巴南银针) yase-Chongqing kanye nezinhlobo eziyizinalithi ze-Yongchuan Xiuya (永川秀芽), — kodwa impahla nendlela ye-Mojiang Yunzhen yehlukile.

6. Izimpawu Zokuzwa Ngezitho Zomzimba:

Enkomishini, i-Mojiang Yunzhen ibonisa lokho kumbaxambili okuqondene nalokhu okumiswe kubuchwepheshe bayo. Endleleni yesitimu — umhluzo osha, oluhlaza, onambitheka njengemifino futhi onombala ohlaza ngokuhlanzekile. Kusuka ohlotsheni lwamaqabunga amakhulu — umzimba ojiyile, ogcwele kanye nokumelana kahle nokugalelwa kaningi: iqabunga likhipha ukunambitheka isikhathi eside futhi ngokuqinile kunamatiye aluhlaza athambile anamaqabunga amancane.

9. Ukuphisa:

Izinkombandlela ezisebenzayo zokuphisa itiye eluhlaza elinamaqabunga amakhulu elinesitimu:

• amanzi — athambile, izinga lokushisa elilinganiselwe (cishe 80 – 85 °C): amanzi abilayo abukhali empahleni eluhlaza ethambile yasekuqaleni akhulisa ukubaba futhi ‘adle’ ukusha;
• isitsha — ingilazi noma i-porcelain, okuvumela ukubuka ukuqondiswa kwezinalithi nokwazisa umhluzo osobala oluhlaza;
• izilinganiso — inani elilinganiselwe lamacembe nokugalelwa kokuqala okufushane, njengoba iqabunga elikhulu likhipha ukunambitheka ngokuqina ukwedlula itiye eliluhlaza elivamile;
• ukulandelana — yandisa isikhathi ngokuphisa ngakunye; ngenxa yemvelo yamaqabunga amakhulu, itiye limelana nokugalelwa kaningana ngaphandle kokwehla okukhulu kokunambitheka.

11. Intengo Nemikhohlisi:

I-Mojiang Yunzhen iyingxenye yengxenye yetiye elisezingeni elimaphakathi (中档) — elikhwalithi, kodwa hhayi ‘eliphezulu’ esakhiweni samatiye aluhlaza adumile aseningizimu-ntshonalanga. Izinga likazwelonke elitholakala esidlangalaleni (GB/T), eliqondene ngqo naleli gama, umthombo awuletinji; ngakho-ke lapha kufaneleka kakhulu ukukhuluma ngesigaba esijwayelekile setiye eluhlaza kanye nangezimpawu zesitayela, hhayi ngenombolo eqinisekisiwe yezinga. Othengayo kufanele aqondise ezimpawini zempahla eluhlaza (uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu, ukuvunwa kwasekuqaleni kwentwasahlobo) kanye nokubunjwa (ukulungiswa ngesitimu, ukumiswa okuyinalithi), hhayi ekuqanjweni okuqondile kwe-GB/T.

Izinkombandlela ezimbalwa ezinokwethenjelwa, ezivumela ukubona i-Mojiang Yunzhen futhi ungayiphambanisi nezitayela ezingomakhelwane:

• Indlela. Lena itiye eliluhlaza elinesitimu (蒸青), hhayi elugazingiwe. Ukulungiswa ngesitimu kunikeza iphrofayili ‘eluhlaza’ kakhudlwana, enotshani obusha kanye nombala ogcwele oluhlaza — ngokungafani namathoni anjengamantongomane kanye ne-castanea amatiye aluhlaza agazingiwe aseningizimu-ntshonalanga.
• Uhlobo. Impahla eluhlaza — uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu ase-Yunnan (大叶种), oluvezwa umzimba ojiyile womhluzo nokumelana okuphezulu nokuphisa; amatiye aluhlaza anamaqabunga amancane ajwayelekile anikeza umhluzo olula futhi ‘ophelelwa amandla’ ngokushesha.
• Isimo. Izinalithi ezizacile eziqondile (针形). Kwezinye ‘izinalithi’ zaseningizimu-ntshonalanga yehlukaniswa ncamashi ngenhlanganisela yempahla yamaqabunga amakhulu nokubunjwa ngesitimu.
• Imvelaphi. Yunnan, isifunda sase-Mojiang. Lokhu kuhlukanisa ngokushesha itiye ezitayeleni eziluhlaza zase-Sichuan (Mengding, Emei) nase-Guizhou (Duyun, Meitan).
• Isexwayiso esibalulekile. Ungaphambanisi ne-diānlǜ (滇绿) — itiye eliluhlaza lase-Yunnan elenziwe ngobuningi elugazingiwe noma elomisiwe elinamaqabunga amakhulu; futhi ikakhulukazi nempahla eluhlaza eyomiswe elangeni (晒青), ehloselwe ukuguqulwa ibe yi-puer, hhayi ukuphuzwa njengetiye eliluhlaza elisha.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

Sekukonke, i-Mojiang Yunzhen — iyivelakancane yesifunda enomlingiswa: iqabunga elikhulu lase-Yunnan, elidlule esikoleni esindala kakhulu sesitimu sokulungisa futhi lahlanganiswa laba yinalithi. Kufanele ifunwe yilabo abafuna ukuqonda ukuthi ibanzi kangakanani imephu yetiye eliluhlaza lase-China, kunalabo abadumile abajwayelekile abagazingiwe.