gān cāng — shī cāng

I-Puer cishe iwukuphela kwesigaba setiye laseChina lapho iminyaka ibhekwa njengebuhle, hhayi isici esibi. Ukuqonda ukuthi leli tiye “likhula” kanjani ngempela akunakwenzeka ngaphandle kwemiqondo emibili — uhlobo lwendawo yokugcina (仓, cāng) kanye nefilosofi ye-越陈越香 (yuè chén yuè xiāng), “uma lugcinwe isikhathi eside, luba nephunga elimnandi kakhudlwana”.

Siyini i-越陈越香

Ngokwezwi nezwi, i-越陈越香 (yuè chén yuè xiāng) ihunyushwa ngokuthi “indala, iya ngokunuka kamnandi.” Akusilo isiqubulo sokukhangisa, kodwa incazelo yenqubo yangempela: i-puer ehlanganiswe kahle futhi ecindezelwe kahle ezimweni ezifanele ishintsha kancane unyaka nonyaka, futhi yilawa mandla okukhula ngendlela ehloniphekile okuyisisekelo senani layo lokuqoqwa.

Lo mgomo ubaluleke kakhulu nge-sheng puer (生普, shēng pǔ) — itiye elingadluli ekubiliseni okusheshisayo okwenziwayo futhi elikhula ngokwemvelo. I-sheng encane ivamise ukuba bukhali, iyabopha, futhi inomuncu ogqamile; amashumi eminyaka okugcinwa kuyiguqula ibe itiye elinephunga elijulile, elinezendlalelo eziningi, “nelivuthiwe” (陈香, chén xiāng). Kungakho ama-bing amadala ahlonishwa abaqoqi, kanti aweyisisekelo kakhulu athengiswa ezindalini ngamamiliyoni e-yuan.

Kubalulekile ukuqonda: i-越陈越香 iyithuba, hhayi isiqiniseko. Kwenzeka kuphela uma kugcinwe kahle. Kulapha kunomehluko phakathi kwezikole ezimbili — indawo yokugcina eyomile nemanzi.

干仓 — Indawo Yokugcina Eyomile

I-干仓 (gān cāng), “indawo yokugcina eyomile” — iyindlela ye-puer esezingeni eliphezulu neqoqwayo. Itiye ligcinwa ezimeni ezinomswakama omaphakathi nolawulwayo kanye nezinga lokushisa elizinzile, ngaphandle kokufaka umswakama ngamabomu.

Izici ezibalulekile zale ndlela:

Kancane. Ukuguqulwa kwetiye kwenzeka kancane — ngeminyaka namashumi eminyaka, hhayi ngezinyanga. Lokhu kudinga isineke, kodwa umphumela uyakufanele.
Kuhlanzekile. Endaweni yokugcina eyomile, itiye ligcina iphrofayili elicacile, elihloniphekile ngaphandle kwephunga okungamelanga libekhona — ngaphandle kwephunga elincengayo, ngaphandle kwamanothi esikhunta.
Kuphephile. Ubungozi bokonakala buncishiswa kakhulu: ngomswakama ofanele, isikhunta asikhuli, futhi ikhasi likhula “kahle.”

Itiye elikugcineni okomile liyavuleka kancane, kodwa ngokuhamba kwesikhathi eside linikeza umphumela ohlanzekile noqagelekayo — yingakho le ndlela ithathwa njengendlela eyisilinganiso emaqoqweni abucayi nakuma-bing okutshala imali.

湿仓 — Indawo Yokugcina Emanzi

I-湿仓 (shī cāng), “indawo yokugcina enomswakama” — iyisu eliphambene. Itiye ligcinwa ngamabomu ezimeni ezinomswakama ophezulu ukusheshisa inqubo yokukhula. Lokho okuthatha amashumi eminyaka endaweni yokugcina eyomile, endaweni enomswakama kwenzeka ngesikhathi esifushane kakhulu: itiye lishesha ukuthola isimilo “esivuthiwe,” ukugayika okumnyama kanye nokuthamba.

Nokho, isivinini sinentengo:

Ubungozi besikhunta nokwonakala. Umswakama ophezulu, osheshisa ukubola, ngesikhathi esifanayo udala indawo ekahle yokukhula kwesikhunta. Umngcele ophakathi “kokukhula okusheshisiwe” kanye “netiye elonakele” mncane kakhulu.
Iphrofayili eguquliwe. Itiye elisendaweni enomswakama livamise ukuba namanothi anuka isikhunta, “anjengendawo yokugcina,” abaphuza abakhetha ukugcinwa okomile abakubheka njengesici esingalungile.

Ngokomlando, indawo yokugcina enomswakama ihlotshaniswa nesiko lokugcina lase-Hong Kong — 港仓 (gǎng cāng), “indawo yokugcina yase-Hong Kong.” Ezimeni zesimo sezulu esishisayo esinomswakama sase-Hong Kong, lapho i-puer yayigcinwa emagumbini angaphansi ezindlu zokuhweba nezitolo zetiye amashumi eminyaka, ukukhula okunomswakama kwakheka njengomkhuba oqhubekayo. Etiyeni elidala, yilo lutayela olwakha indlela yokunambitha ejwayelwe izizukulwane zabaphuza baseNingizimu China.

Namuhla, umbono nge-湿仓 unhlangothimbili: abanye bayibheka njengengxenye engenakugwemeka yomlando we-puer, kanti abanye — njengokuyekethisa, okuhlanekezela imvelo yemvelo yetiye. Kunoma ikuphi, umqoqi onolwazi kumele akwazi ukuhlukanisa uhlobo olulodwa lokugcinwa kolunye.

Inkathi ye-sheng Puer: Umlando Ngokusebenzisa Ukugcinwa

Njengoba ku-sheng iminyaka iyinani, umlando we-puer uhlukaniseka kahle ngezikhathi, futhi amatiye amadala avela enkathini ngayinye abe yizigaba ezihlukene zabaqoqi.

号级茶 (hào jí chá) — “amatiye ezimpawu zokuhweba.” Le yi-puer yakudala, eyayikhiqizwa izindlu zokuhweba ezizimele (商号, shāng hào) ngaphambi kweminyaka yawo-1950. Amagama adumile — 同庆 (tóng qìng), 宋聘 (sòng pìn), 福元昌 (fú yuán chāng). Lawa angama-rarity asezindalini, amanani awo abalwa ngamamiliyoni e-yuan nangaphezulu. Asetshenziswa njengobufakazi obuphilayo bokuthi i-越陈越香 iyasebenza phakathi nekhulu leminyaka.

印级茶 (yìn jí chá) — “amatiye esigxivizo.” Umkhiqizo wenkampani kahulumeni i-中茶 (zhōng chá) wawo-1950s–70s. Igama lisuselwa ebaleni lesigxivizo esinombhalo othi “中” (zhōng) ekhasini lokugoqa: 红印 (hóng yìn) — isigxivizo esibomvu, 绿印 (lǜ yìn) — esiluhlaza, 黄印 (huáng yìn) — esiphuzi. Lesi yisigaba sesibili ngokuhlonishwa se-puer endala.

七子级 (qī zǐ jí) — “inkathi yama-bing ayisikhombisa.” Iqala ngeminyaka yawo-1970s futhi ihlotshaniswa nokuvela kwesistimu ye-唛号 (mài hào) — izinombolo zokupheka, ezifana ne-7542 edumile. Lesi sistimu samakhodi saba wulimi lwezimboni lwe-puer.

Inkathi yesimanje. Ibalwa kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1990s; ngo-1989 kwaqoshwa uhlamvu lwentengiso i-大益 (dà yì) — elinye lamagama abalulekile emakethe yanamuhla.

Lokhu kulandelana kwezikhathi kukhombisa ukuthi ukugcinwa nokukhula akusona ngcamelo, kodwa kuyisisekelo salo lonke uhlelo lwamanani emhlabeni we-puer: inkathi yokukhiqiza inquma ngokuqondile iminyaka, futhi kanjalo nenani letiye.

Futhi kuthiwani nge-shu Puer?

Umgomo we-越陈越香 usebenza naku-shu puer (熟普, shú pǔ) — itiye elidlule ekubiliseni okusheshisiwe okwenziwayo (渥堆, wò duī). Kodwa usebenza ngendlela emnene. I-Shu ayinalo lolo guquko olukhulu njenge-sheng, ngoba ushintsho oluyinhloko selwenzekile ngesikhathi senqubo yokufumba emanzi.

Noma kunjalo, ukugcinwa kuyenzuzisa i-shu: “ukunambitheka kwaseMenghai” okuyisici (勐海味, měng hǎi wèi) kuhlanganiswa neminyaka yokugcinwa kunikeza umphumela we-醇厚陈香 (chún hòu chén xiāng) — iphunga eligcwele, elibushelelezi “nelivuthiwe.” I-shu encane ivamise ukuba namanothi abukhali okufumba; isikhathi siyawalulaza, okwenza ukugayika kuhlanzeke kakhulu, kuguquke futhi kube bushelelezi.

Ungakuhlukanisa Kanjani Ukugcinwa Okomile Kokumanzi

Kumpetha, umehluko uzwiwa ngezimpawu ezimbalwa:

Iphunga. Indawo eyomile inikeza iphunga elivuthiwe elihlanzekile, elicacile ngaphandle kwamanothi angalungile. Emanzi — amanothi anuka isikhunta, njengendawo engaphansi, “kanye-nendawo-yokugcina.”
Ukubukeka kwekhasi. Itiye elikugcineni olunomswakama ngokuvamile libukeka limnyama kakhudlwana futhi “ligugile” uma kuqhathaniswa nesikhathi salo sangempela esifushane — ukuguga kusheshiswe ngokwenziwa.
Isivinini nomqondo weminyaka. Uma itiye elisencane libonisa ukugayika okumnyama kakhulu “nokuvuthwa” okujulile, kuyisizathu sokusola ukugcinwa okunomswakama, hhayi ukugcinwa kwemvelo.
Ukuhlanzeka kokugayika. Indawo eyomile — obala futhi okuqagelekayo; enomswakama — ubungozi obukhulu bokufiphala, ukunambitheka okungahlanzekile ngemuva kanye nokunambitheka kwesikhunta.

Isiphetho

I-越陈越香 iyinhliziyo yefilosofi ye-puer, kodwa lo mgomo ufezeka kuphela ngokugcinwa okufanele. Indawo yokugcina eyomile (干仓) — indlela ehamba kancane, ehlanzekile nephiphile, eyisilinganiso samaqoqo; indawo yokugcina enomswakama (湿仓) — indlela esheshayo, kodwa enobungozi, egxilile emlandweni ngesiko lase-Hong Kong i-港仓. Ukuqonda lo mehluko, obekwe phezu kokulandelana kwezikhathi zezinkathi — kusukela ematiyeni akudala e-号级茶 edlula e-印级茶 nase-七子级 kuya ezimpawini zokuhweba zanamuhla — kuyisihluthulelo esivumela umuntu ukuba afunde i-puer njengetiye eliphilayo, elishintshashintshayo ngokuhamba kwesikhathi.

Bheka futhi izihloko ngezinkathi ze-sheng puer kanye nesistimu ye-唛号.