hào jí · yìn jí

Uma abaqoqi bekhuluma nge-pu’er yangempela evuthiwe, cishe ngaso sonke isikhathi bakhuluma ngezikhathi ezimbili — hào jí (号级) kanye ne-yìn jí (印级). Lokhu akuzona izinhlobo noma izindawo, kodwa izendlalelo zomlando, okuyizona ezilula ukufunda ngazo lonke uhlu lozalo lwe-sheng pu’er nokuqonda ukuthi kungani umgomo othi yuè chén yuè xiāng (越陈越香, “indala ikhula iba nephunga elimnandi”) uguqule iqabunga elicindezelwe laba yinani lezindali.

Kungani izikhathi zikhona nakanye

I-Pu’er ihlukile ngoba ikhwalithi yayo ayiqinisekiswa ngesikhathi sokukhishwa, kodwa yakheka emashumini eminyaka. Kugxilwe ku-yuè chén yuè xiāng (越陈越香) — umqondo wokuthi itiye elenziwe kahle futhi eligcinwe kahle ngokuhamba kwesikhathi liba lijulile, lithambe, libe nephunga elimnandi. Yilolu guquko oluhamba kancane olwenza umqondo othi “iminyaka yokukhishwa” ube nengqondo: isinkwa sika-1950 kanye nesika-2010 kuyiziphuzo ezihluke ngokuphelele, noma ngabe iqabunga liqoqwe ezintabeni ezifanayo.

Kusukela lapha kuvela ukuhlukaniswa kwezikhathi. Ku-sheng pu’er (生普) kuvunyelwana ukuhlukanisa izendlalelo ezinkulu ezine:

• Itiye le-号级 (hào jí chá) — amatiye akudala ezindlu zohwebo ezizimele shāng hào (商号) ngaphambi kweminyaka yawo-1950;
• Itiye le-印级 (yìn jí chá) — umkhiqizo kahulumeni we-中茶 (uZhongcha) wawo-1950-70;
• I-七子级 (qī zǐ jí) — “amadodana ayisikhombisa”, inkathi yezinombolo mài hào (唛号) kusukela eminyakeni yawo-1970;
• Inkathi yesimanje — kusukela kwawo-1990, lapho ngo-1989 uphawu lwe-大益 (Dàyì).

I-号级 kanye ne-印级 yizendlalelo ezimbili zokuqala nezinenganekwane kakhulu. Ngale kwalokho, yonke into ayisakalwa ngezimpawu zokugxiviza, kodwa ngamakhodi anezinombolo ezine afana no-7542.

Itiye le-号级: inkathi yezindlu zohwebo

Ama-Hào jí chá — amatiye emikhakha yokukhiqiza ezimele-商号, eyasebenza ngaphambi kokwenziwa kwemboni yetiye uhulumeni ngasekuqaleni kwawo-1950. Amagama alezi zindlu namuhla azwakala njengamagama ezindawo ezinkulu zokwenza iwayini:

• 同庆 (Tóngqìng),
• 宋聘 (Sòngpìn),
• 福元昌 (Fúyuánchāng).

Lena kwakuyinkathi lapho kwakungekho risiphi sikahulumeni esisodwa, futhi kungekho nohlelo lwezinombolo. Indlu ngayinye yayiqoqa izinto ezingavuthiwe ezintabeni ezazaziwa yiyo, icindezele izinkwa ngokwezinga layo futhi ifake ngaphakathi ipepha elibhalwe ngesandla — nèi fēi (内飞) — elinesigxivizo futhi ngokuvamile elinexwayiso ngomgunyathi, ngoba igama lendlu ngaleso sikhathi lalivele libiza imali.

Zimbalwa kakhulu izinkwa zangempela ezisekhona, futhi cishe zonke sezineminyaka engamashumi evuthiwe. Ezindalini, amanye amasampula e-号级 athengiswa ngezigidi zama-yuan, okwenza angabi isiphuzo nje kuphela, kodwa abe izinto zasemnyuziyamu nokutshalwa kwezimali. Ukuze uqonde i-pu’er, kunento eyodwa ebalulekile: i-号级 yabeka izinga ngokwayo — umqondo wokuthi itiye lingaguga ngendlela enhle, njengewayini elihle kakhulu.

Itiye le-印级: inkathi yokugxiviza

Ngemva kokuhlelwa kabusha kwemboni, ukukhiqiza kwagxila esikhungweni sikahulumeni i-中茶 (uZhongcha). Amatiye ango-1950-70 ale nkathi abizwa ngokuthi yìn jí chá (印级茶) — “amatiye okugxiviza”.

Igama lichaza ngokuqondile ukwakheka kwesembozo: ilogo ethi “八中茶” — abalingiswa abayisishiyagalombili baka-中 (zhōng) bezungeze uphawu olumaphakathi luka-茶 (chá), — kanti ukwahlukaniswa kokuqoqwa kwalandela umbala walolu phawu olumaphakathi:

• 红印 (hóng yìn) — “isigxivizo esibomvu”;
• 绿印 (lǜ yìn) — “isigxivizo esiluhlaza”;
• 黄印 (huáng yìn) — “isigxivizo esiphuzi”.

Lezi zimpawu zemibala zaba ikhodi yenkathi kubaqoqi: ngazo bayathola usuku, bahlole futhi bakhe ukuhleleka okuyivelakancane. I-红印 ngokwesiko ithathwa njengesiqongo se-印级 — ukukhishwa kokuqala nokuhlonishwa kakhulu kwalesi sendlalelo.

I-印级 iyinkathi yoguquko: azikabikho izinombolo ezinezimpawu ezine, kodwa sekuvele kunomkhiqizo omaphakathi kanye nohlelo olubonakalayo oluqashelwayo. Kungalesi sikhathi lapho ngo-1970 kuzovela khona i-七子级 namakhodi ayo emiresiphi mài hào, lapho, ngokwesibonelo, u-7542 eyoba isinkwa esisezingeni eliphezulu se-sheng.

Izinto ezingavuthiwe nokucubungula: yini esisekelweni

Naphezu komehluko wezikhathi, isisekelo sobuchwepheshe sihlala siqasheleka. I-Pu’er yenziwa ngesihlahla setiye sase-Yunnan esinamahlamvu amakhulu (大叶种, dà yè zhǒng), futhi ukhiye wokuvuthwa kwesikhathi esizayo — yi-shài qīng máo chá (晒青毛茶), umkhiqizo ongagciniwe wokomiswa elangeni. Iqabunga “eliphilayo”, elingakapheki ngokuphelele ukushisa, yilo eligcina umsebenzi ogcina amagciwane kanye nokubila, ngaphandle kwawo i-yuè chén yuè xiāng ingasebenzi.

Ezikhathini zakudala, kukhulunywa kuphela nge-sheng pu’er (生普) — itiye lokubila kwemvelo, okuhamba kancane emva kokubila. Ubuchwepheshe bokuvutshelwa okusheshisiwe okwenziwa nge-wò duī (渥堆), obukhiqize i-shu pu’er (熟普), bavela kamuva, ngeminyaka yawo-1970, ngakho-ke abuhlangene ne-号级 ne-印级.

Ukugcinwa: 干仓 kuqhathaniswa 湿仓

Iminyaka ngaphandle kokugcinwa okufanele ayisho lutho, futhi lapha kudlula umugqa obaluleke kakhulu wokwehlukanisa phakathi kwezikole ezimbili zokugcina impahla:

• 干仓 (gān cāng) — indlu yokugcina eyomile: ukuvuthwa kuhamba kancane, kuhlanzekile futhi kuphephile. Lena indlela esezingeni eliphezulu, enikeza iphrofayili yokuvuthwa esobala, ecophelelayo.
• 湿仓 (shī cāng) — indlu yokugcina enomswakama: isheshisa “ukuguga”, kodwa inengcuphe yesikhunta nokonakala. Ihlotshaniswa nomlando wezindlu zokugcina zase-Hong Kong — gǎng cāng (港仓), lapho amashumi eminyaka itiye laligcinwa ngaphansi kwezimo zomswakama ophezulu.

Kuma-号级 nama-印级 angempela, udaba lomlando wokugcinwa lubaluleke kakhulu: isinkwa esisodwa, esichithe ikhulunyaka endaweni yokugcina eyomile noma enomswakama, siba amatiye amabili ahlukile ngesimo nangenani.

Ukunambitheka nokwenziwa

I-sheng pu’er yakudala ayihlolwa ngokugqama, kodwa ngokujula. Amashumi eminyaka okuvuthwa asusa itiye ebumuncwini bokuqala nasekuhlanganiseni asiyise kulokho okubizwa ngokuthi chén xiāng (陈香) — iphunga elimnandi lokuvuthwa elinamathoni okhuni oludala, izithelo ezomile, amakhambi okwelapha, umtapo wolwazi onomswakama. Ukumnika kuminyene, kuyasonga, futhi kunokunambitheka kwangemuva okuhlala isikhathi eside, okuzolile.

Amatiye anjalo enziwa ngokuthela okubizwa nge-gōng fu chá (功夫茶) ngetiye le-Yixing noma nge-gaiwan: izinga eliphezulu lokushisa kwamanzi, ukufakwa okuminyene, ukuthelwa okufushane. Iqabunga elidala lidinga amanzi abilayo ashisayo futhi ngezinye izikhathi lidinga ukugezwa ukuze “kuvuswe” isinkwa esicindezelwe amashumi eminyaka.

Ku-shu pu’er, umgomo we-yuè chén yuè xiāng uyasebenza futhi, nakuba uthambe: iminyaka yokuvuthwa yenza bube bushelelezi ubukhali bokuqala be-wò duī, futhi iphunga elaziwayo le-Měnghǎi wèi (勐海味) ngokuhamba kwesikhathi liguqukela ku-chún hòu chén xiāng (醇厚陈香) ominyene, ofudumele — iphrofayili yokuvuthwa enothile.

Ungazihlukanisa kanjani izikhathi

Izinkomba ezimbalwa zokufunda umsuka:

• Ngohlelo lwezimpawu. Akukho sigxivizo esithi “中”, ayikho inombolo, kukhona kuphela igama lendlu yohwebo kanye ne-nèi fēi — ikhandidethi le-号级. Kukhona isigxivizo esinombala esithi “中” esingenakhodi enezinombolo ezine — lena indawo ye-印级. Uma kuvela i-mài hào efana no-7542 — sesivele sisenkathini ye-七子级 nangemuva.
• Ngombala wesigxivizo ngaphakathi kwe-印级: i-红印 / 绿印 / 黄印 — ikhodi eyisisekelo yokuthola usuku yenkathi.
• Ngesimo sokuvuthwa. I-号级 noma i-印级 yangempela ayikwazi ukuba “yintsha”: emashumini eminyaka, iqabunga liyafiphala, iphunga elimnandi liya ku-chén xiāng, kanti isimo sokugcinwa (干仓 noma 湿仓) sifundeka enkomishini.

Isixwayiso esikhulu: imboni yomgunyathi igxile kakhulu kulezi zikhathi, ngoba amagama afana no-同庆, 宋聘 noma 红印 amashumi eminyaka asho imali eningi. Kumfundi we-encyclopedia, i-号级 ne-印级 zibalulekile ngaphezu kwakho konke njengesisekelo: zikhombisa ukuthi ngeqabunga elingenalutho elomiswe elangeni kwakheka kanjani isiko lonke lokuvuthwa, lapho isikhathi — siyingcweti eyinhloko.