Líncāng

ILincang (Líncāng) ingenye yezindawo ezinkulu ezine zepu’er, kanye neXishuangbanna, iPuer (Simao) neBaoshan, futhi ingumhlinzeki omkhulu kunawo wonke wezinto ezingavuthiwe esifundazweni saseYunnan. Lesi sifunda sasemadolobheni kade saziwa ngegama elithi 天下茶仓 (tiānxià chácāng) — “inqolobane yetiye yasezulwini”: yilapho kuphuma khona umthamo omkhulu wamaqabunga aluhlaza omiswe elangeni (晒青, shàiqīng), okuyiwona msimbila wemboni ye-sheng pu’er, futhi kulapho kugxile khona ezinye zezintaba ezibiza kakhulu ezingabakhiqizi abangabodwa.

Indawo kanye nokuma kwezwe

Isifunda saseLincang sisentshonalanga-nyakatho yeXishuangbanna, ngasogwini olusentshonalanga loMfula iLancang (澜沧江, umfula ongenhla weMekong). Lo mfula ungumgogodla oyinhloko, ohlukanisa izintaba zepu’er zibe ezingasempumalanga “ezingaphakathi” (江内, 古六大茶山) nezingasentshonalanga “ezingaphandle” (江外, 新六大茶山); iLincang yona isenyakatho nasentshonalanga ngokwengeziwe kunesizinda somlando, endaweni enezigodi ezijulile zemifula namathambeka awumqansa.

Ngokuqondile umehluko wokuphakama kanye nokubheke kwethambeka yikhona okudala imiklamo yezindawo ezincane ezihlukahlukene. Uhlelo lwendawo olungakahleleki lwaziwa ngokuthi “amadragoni amancane amane aseLincang” (临沧四小龙) — igama elihlanganisa iqembu lemizi ekhiqiza evelele, lapho izikhundla zokuqala zithathwa iBingdao (冰岛) neXigui (昔归). La magama amabili emakethe yesimanje asho okulingana nokushiwo iLaobanzhang neYiwu eXishuangbanna.

Izintaba ezidumile

IMengku (勐库) — amathambeka asempumalanga nasentshonalanga

Inhliziyo yendawo yaseLincang — isifunda saseMengku (Měngkù) esifundeni saseShuangjiang (双江). Sihlukaniswe ngethambeka elingasentshonalanga (西半山) nethambeka elingasempumalanga (东半山), futhi lokhu kubheke ezinhlangothini zomhlaba akuyona into engenamsebenzi, kodwa kungumkhawulo wokunambitheka.

• Ithambeka elingasentshonalanga (西半山) lihlanganisa imizana edume kakhulu: iBingdao (冰岛), iDahusai (大户赛), iXiaohusai (小户赛), iDongguo (懂过) kanye namakhaza aphakeme aseDaxueshan (大雪山). Kulapha lapho kuvela khona “uhlelo lweBingdao” (冰岛系) — okuyisilinganiso sobumnene nobumnandi obuhlala isikhathi eside.
• Ithambeka elingasempumalanga (东半山) laziwa kakhulu ngomuzi waseBanuo (坝糯) kanye nesiko lawo le-téngtiáo chá (藤条茶) — “itiye elinjengomvini,” noma “eliyintambo.”

IDaxueshan engxenyeni yethambeka elingasentshonalanga ibalulekile hhayi nje kuphela njengomthombo wezinto ezingavuthiwe: isigodi saseMengku singenye yamabhange amakhulu esakhi sofuzo zetiye elinamaqabunga amakhulu laseYunnan, indawo yemvelo egcina izihlahla zetiye zakudala, lapho kusekelwe phezu kwalo lonke ulwazi ngezinhlobo zetiye ezinkulu zaseMengku.

IBangdong (邦东) neXigui (昔归)

Ingqikithi yesibili yodumo lwaseLincang — intaba iBangdong (Bāngdōng) esifundeni saseLinxiang (临翔), lapho kuhlanganisa nemizi yaseXigui (昔归), iNahan (那罕) neManggang (曼岗). Umzila wetiye lalapha — “ubumnandi obubandayo obunjengoshukela baseXigui” (昔归冰糖甜). IBangdong, njengeMengku esempumalanga, igcina isiko eliphilayo le-téngtiáo chá: isihlahla sibunjwa ngokuthenwa isikhathi eside ukuze amagatsha elule abe “imivini” emide eguquguqukayo, lapho iqabunga likhiwa khona ngesandla.

Izinhlobonhlobo: uhlobo lwamahlamvu amakhulu aseMengku

ILincang yindawo okwavela kuyo olunye lwezinhlobo ezinkulu zamahlamvu aseYunnan ezaziwa kakhulu, ngokomlando ezihlobene nesigodi saseMengku. Iqabunga eliwugqinsi, elinanyisiwe elinoboya obuningi (毫) linikeza amandla aphezulu okudonsa kanye nenqwaba yama-polyphenol nama-amino acid — okuyikho kanye okudingekayo ezintweni ezingavuthiwe ze-sheng pu’er, ezihloselwe iminyaka yokuvuthwa. Izitshalo zakudala nezingaphelele zasendle zaseDaxueshan zisebenza njengeqoqo eliphilayo lokwehlukahluka kwezakhi zofuzo zalolu hlobo lwamahlamvu amakhulu; phezu kwazo isikhathi eside kwaqondwa futhi kwachazwa ngayo inzalo yaseMengku njengoba injalo.

Ukucubungula: kusuka eqabungeni elisha kuya ku-晒青

Izinto ezingavuthiwe zaseLincang ze-sheng pu’er zilandela indlela yakudala yomkhiqizo osaluhlaza we-maocha (毛茶):

1. Ukubunisa kweqabunga elisanda kukhiwa.
2. IShaqing (杀青, shāqīng) — ukulungiswa kwama-enzyme ngokuwashisa epanini, okumisa ukufiphala.
3. Ukusonta (揉捻), okwenza imicu futhi kuvule amangqamuzana.
4. Ukomiswa elangeni (晒青) — uphawu oluhlukanisayo, olunikeza umkhiqizo osaluhlaza “welanga,” okuthi, ngokungafani nokomiswa kwehhavini kwamatiye aluhlaza, ugcine amandla okufiphala isikhathi eside okulandelayo.

Iqabunga elomisiwe elangeni elitholakele bese liyadayiswa lixegaxega, noma licindezelwe kube amaqebelengwane (饼), izitini nama-tuo. Isici esikhethekile saseLincang — ubunjiniyela bezolimo obushiwo ngenhla be-téngtiáo chá: ukubunjwa “okunjengomvini” kwesihlahla empumalanga yeMengku (Banuo) naseBangdong kunikeza ukukhethwa okuhlanzekile nokunembile kwama-flush futhi kuthathwa njengophawu lokuphathwa ngesandla ngokucophelela.

Amazinga

Iqabunga elomisiwe elangeni elinamahlamvu amakhulu laseLincang kanye nemikhiqizo ecindezelwe ephuma kulo ingaphansi kwesigaba se-sheng pu’er, lapho kusebenza khona uhlelo lukazwelonke lokuvikelwa kwendawo kanye nokulawulwa kwemvelaphi yezinto ezingavuthiwe zamahlamvu amakhulu aseYunnan (大叶种晒青). Umqondo oyisisekelo wokumiswa kwamazinga — ukuhlotshaniswa okuphoqelekile kwezinto zetiye elinamahlamvu amakhulu laseYunnan elomisiwe elangeni kanye nobuchwepheshe obungabandakanyi ukusheshiswa kokufiphala ngokwenziwa kohlobo “oluhlaza” (生). Amagama athile ezintaba nezemizana (iBingdao, iXigui nokunye) awawona amazinga ahlukene amisiwe — lokhu izinkomba zemakethe zemvelaphi ngaphakathi kwendawo yaseLincang.

Ukunambitheka nokwenza itiye

Iphrofayili yaseLincang ngobuningi bayo imnene futhi “imnandi” kakhulu kunamatiye anamandla, ababayo futhi abuzwayo aseBulangshan:

• IBingdao neMengku esentshonalanga — isibonelo sokulinganisela: inhluzi ehlanzekile, esobala, ubumunyu obuncane, obuphela ngokushesha kanye ne-aftaste eqhubekayo ebuyayo emnandi (回甘), umuzwa “wamakhaza amnandi” emphinjeni.
• IXigui neBangdong — ubumnandi “obubandayo obunjengoshukela” obaziwayo obunomzimba ominyene, obushelelayo kanye nephunga elimile.

Ukuze unambithe i-sheng pu’er yaseLincang, uhlelo lwakudala lokuthela luwufanele:

• isitsha — i-gaiwan noma itiye le-Yixing;
• amanzi — athambile, cishe ngo-95–100 °C;
• itiye — cishe ama-7–8 g ku-110–120 ml;
• ukuwasha iqabunga ngokushesha, bese uthela amanzi isikhashana (amasekhondi angu-5–10 ezinhluzini zokuqala) bese unweba kancane kancane.

Izinto ezingavuthiwe ezinhle zaseLincang zimelana nokuphuzwa kaningi, ziveza kusukela esazisweni sokuqala esisha sezimbali-notshani kuya kwesijulile, esimnandi njengoju njengoba iqebelengwane livuthwa.

Umlando namasiko

Isidlaliso “inqolobane yetiye yasezulwini” sikhombisa indima yangempela yezomnotho yesifunda: nakuba udumo lomlando lwepu’er lwaba sebhange elisempumalanga loMfula iLancang — ezintabeni Ezintathu eziyisithupha zetiye zenkathi ye-Qing futhi kamuva eXishuangbanna, — kwasetshenziswa khona kanye iLincang eyaba umthombo omkhulu wezinto ezingavuthiwe wayo yonke imboni. Izigodi zaseMengku neBangdong nezitshalo zazo zakudala nobunjiniyela bezolimo obuphilayo be-téngtiáo chá zixhumanisa imakethe yesimanje nomkhuba wamakhulu eminyaka wokutshala itiye ezintabeni zaseYunnan. Emashumini eminyaka amuva nje, imizana ethile — ikakhulukazi iBingdao neXigui — isiguquke yasuka ekubeni izinto ezingavuthiwe “zasenqolobaneni” ezingaziwa yaba imikhiqizo yodumo ezimele yemvelaphi.

Ungahlukanisa kanjani

• Ubumnandi esikhundleni “sokuhlasela.” I-sheng yaseLincang ivamise ukuba mnene futhi ibe mnandi, inobumunyu obuphela ngokushesha kanye ne-回甘 ende; uma inkomishi ibuswa “amandla” asindayo, ahlala isikhathi eside ababayo futhi abuzwayo (霸气), lokhu cishe kuyiphrofayili yaseBulangshan yaseXishuangbanna, hhayi iLincang.
• Impumalanga ngokumelene nentshonalanga eMengku. Amatiye ethambeka elingasentshonalanga (iBingdao kanye nomakhelwane) athambekela ekuhlanzekeni “nasemakhazeni” amnandi; ithambeka elingasempumalanga (iBanuo) neBangdong zaziwa ngobumnandi obuminene “obubandayo obunjengoshukela” futhi ngokuvamile nangokulandela ubunjiniyela bezolimo “obunjengomvini” ekumeni kweqabunga.
• Izinto ezingavuthiwe, hhayi nje “igama elidumile.” Khumbula ukuthi amagama afana neBingdao neXigui — izinkomba zemizana ngaphakathi kwendawo yaseLincang, hhayi amazinga ahlukene; bhekelela ukusobala kwengulube, iqabunga elinaminyene, elinoboya obuningi kanye nophawu lokugcina olumnandi, hhayi nje umbhalo osembophweni.

ILincang isalokhu iyinsika, lapho ngaphandle kwayo i-sheng pu’er yesimanje ingenakucatshangwa: njengomthombo omkhulu kunawo wonke wezinto ezingavuthiwe zamahlamvu amakhulu ezomisiwe elangeni, futhi njengendawo okwavela kuyo izintaba, amagama azo — iMengku, iBingdao, iBangdong, iXigui — namuhla azwakala ezingeni elifanayo nezinganekwane zosebe olusempumalanga loMfula iLancang.