Xīnhuì chénpí

Ikhasi elimisiwe elidumile elivela esifundeni sase-Xinhui esifundazweni sase-Guangdong — akulona itiye ngomqondo oqinile, kodwa lingomunye wabahambisana nabo ababalulekile betiye laseShayina: liyisisekelo se-gan-puer (gānpǔ chá 柑普茶) kanye nokumnika okuzimele, okuthandwa ngenxa yephunga elijulile, elithambile ngokuhamba kwesikhathi.

Umsuka kanye ne-terroir

I-Xinhui (新会) iyisifunda sedolobha i-Jiangmen (江门) endaweni lapho umfula i-Zhujiang (Pearl River) uhlangana khona nolwandle eningizimu ye-Guangdong. Ukuhlobana kwendawo yikhona okwenza i-Xīnhuì chénpí ibe umkhiqizo okhethekile: ikhasi elitshalwe futhi elimiswe kwezinye izifunda alinalo ilungelo lokusebenzisa leli gama.

Indima ebalulekile idlalwa yi-hydrology yendawo lapho umfula uhlangana nolwandle. Imifula i-Xijiang (西江 Xījiāng) kanye ne-Tanjiang (潭江 Tánjiāng) ithwala amanzi ahlanzekile, ahlangana lapha namagagasi olwandle, akha indawo ebanzi yamanzi anosawoti nenhlabathi enodaka enothile. Le ngxube yokudla kwamanzi ahlanzekile nanosawoti, inhlabathi ecebile ngamaminerali kanye nesimo sezulu esifudumele nesinomswakama se-subtropical monsoon kwakha iphrofayili yamakhemikhali ekhethekile yekhasi: okuqukethwe okuphezulu kwamafutha abalulekile kanye nokulinganisela okuphawulekayo kwamanothi ababayo kanye namanothi amnandi. Kukholakala ukuthi inhlanganisela “yamanzi amathathu” (河水, 海水, 雨水 — amanzi omfula, olwandle, nemvula) yikhona enquma ukungafani kwe-terroir yase-Xinhui.

Izinhlobonhlobo: i-mandarin yase-Chazhi (茶枝柑, cházhīgān)

Into esetshenziswayo iwuhlobo oluthile lwesithelo se-citrus — i-cházhīgān (茶枝柑), eyaziwa nangokuthi i-mandarin yase-Xinhui (Xīnhuì gān 新会柑). Ngokwesayensi yezitshalo, lena inhlobonhlobo ye-Citrus reticulata, ezincwadini zamazwe ngamazwe evame ukubizwa nge-cultivar ‘Chachi’. Lesi sihlahla saziwa lapha hhayi ngenxa yenyama yaso kodwa ngenxa yekhasi laso—elinephunga elimnandi, elinamafutha, elinephethini egqamile yezindlala zamafutha abalulekile.

Isithelo sale mandarin sisilela ezinhlotsheni ezidliwayo ngobumnandi nobumanzi, kodwa ikhasi laso ligqama ngokuqina, ukunwebeka nokugcwala kwezinhlanganisela eziguquguqukayo. Ngokwesiko, iziza ezingcono kakhulu zitholakala ezindaweni ezincane ezingaphansi komlando e-Xinhui — njengase-Tianma (天马 Tiānmǎ), e-Meijiang (梅江 Méijiāng), e-Dongjia (东甲 Dōngjiǎ) nakwezinye, — lapho i-terroir yamukelwa njengethandeka kakhulu (ukuhlelwa okuqondile kwezindawo ezincane kuyahlukahluka emithonjeni yolwazi).

Izikhathi zokuvuna kanye “neminyaka” emithathu yekhasi

Omunye wemigomo eyinhloko ye-Xīnhuì chénpí — ukwahlukaniswa ngesikhathi sokukhiwa kwesithelo, okubonakala ngokuqondile embaleni, ephungeni nasekuziphatheni ngesikhathi sokumiswa.

• Ikhasi eliluhlaza (柑青皮 gānqīng pí) — ukuvuna kusenesikhathi, cishe kusukela ngasekupheleni kwehlobo. Ikhasi liluhlaza okotshani ngokumnyama, liqinile, linephunga elihlabayo, elipholile, elibabayo kancane futhi “elibukhali”. Okuqukethwe okuphezulu kwamafutha abalulekile.
• Ikhasi elibomvu kancane (微红皮 wēihóng pí) — ukuvuna okuphakathi. Umbala uphuzi ngokuluhlaza kunombala onsundu ngokubomvu, iphunga nobubaba kuyathamba, kuvela ukuzwakala okugcwele.
• Ikhasi elikhulu elibomvu (大红皮 dàhóng pí) — ukuvuna sekwephuzile, isithelo esivuthiwe. Ikhasi libomvu ngokunsundu, lizacile futhi lithambile, iphunga limnandi, lifudumele, linobubaba obuncane.

Lezi zigaba ezintathu aziqhudelani, kodwa zichaza izitayela ezahlukene: okuluhlaza kunikeza umlingiswa ovuselelayo “nongena shi”, kanti okubomvu kunikeza othambile futhi omnandi kancane.

Indlela yokukhiqiza nokususa ikhasi

Ubucwepheshe bubukeka bulula, kodwa budinga ukucophelela.

1. Ukususa ikhasi (开皮 kāipí). Isithelo siyasikwa bese kususwa ikhasi ngendlela ephawulekayo “yamacembe amathathu” (三瓣 sānbàn) noma “amacembe amabili”, kushiye izingxenye zihlangene esisekelweni. Lokhu “kuqhakaza” okuvulekile okwaziwayo — kungenye yezimpawu ezibukwayo zokukhiqizwa kwangempela.
2. Ukomisa (晒制 shàizhì). Ikhasi liyomiswa — ngokwesiko emkhathini elangeni — kuze kube sesimweni esizinzile, kungomiswa ngokweqile, ukuze kugcinwe amafutha abalulekile.
3. Ukuvuthwa (陈化 chénhuà). Ikhasi elomisiwe lifakwa esitokisini isikhathi eside endaweni enomoya omuhle, elawulwa ngokomswakama, livuselelwa ngezikhathi ezithile ngokulisomisa lapho isimo sezulu sivuma.

Iphuzu elibalulekile: ikhasi elisha noma elisanda komiswa akakabi i-chénpí. Ngokwejwayelekile lembonini, yikhasi elimiswe okungenani iminyaka emithathu kuphela elinelungelo lokubizwa nge-chénpí (陈皮, ngokwezwi nezwi “ikhasi elidala nelimisiwe”). Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, umbala uyashintsha (kusuka konsundu ngokubomvu uye konsundu ngokumnyama), ububaba obuhlabayo buyaphela, iphunga liba lijulile, libe mnandi futhi libe yinkimbinkimbi. Ikhasi elidala, eliminyaka eminingi lithandwa kakhulu, futhi iminyaka ivame ukukhonjwa njengesici esiyinhloko.

Amazinga kanye nokuvikelwa kwendawo

I-Xīnhuì chénpí — umkhiqizo onesiqinisekiso sendawo esivikelekile (地理标志产品): ilungelo legama lixhumene nendawo yomsuka, uhlobo lwe-cházhīgān kanye nobucwepheshe obumisiwe. Lokhu kuvumela ukuhlukanisa ikhasi langempela lase-Xinhui “ekhasini le-mandarin elimisiwe” nje elivela kwezinye izifunda.

Izinombolo eziqondile zamazinga asebenzayo nemithethonqubo yendawo azinikezwanga lapha, ukuze kunganikezwa imininingwane engaqinisekisiwe — hlola uhlelo lwamanje lwamazinga afanele. Kubalulekile futhi ukukhumbula isimo esikabili sekhasi: ngokwesiko lamaShayina, i-chénpí (陈皮) ingaphansi kwesigaba “sokudla nomuthi okuvela emthonjeni owodwa” (yào shí tóng yuán 药食同源) futhi ivela ezimweni ze-pharmacopoeia nezokupheka. Izakhiwo zezokwelapha asizidingidanga kulesi sihloko.

Ukunambitheka, iphunga kanye nokwenziwa

Ukumnika nje kwekhasi elimisiwe kunikeza umbala ohlanzekile we-amber-osagolide, iphunga elifudumele le-citrus-nezinkuni elinamanothi ojucu, e-balsamic kanye namanothi amancane ezinongo. Ikhasi eliluhlaza elincane enkomishini lipholile kakhudlwana, linobubaba obuncane; ikhasi elibomvu leminyaka eminingi lithambile, ligcwele, linobumnandi obunamandla.

Ukwenza okuyisisekelo: ucezu oluncane lwekhasi (noma ezimbalwa) luyahlanzwa, bese luthelwa ngamanzi ashisayo (acishe abile) e-gaiwan noma etiye, kwenziwa amaphrili amafushane futhi isikhathi sandiswe kancane kancane. Ikhasi lingabiliswa futhi — lokhu kunikeza umhluzo oqinile nogcwele.

Ikhasi lase-Xinhui laziwa kakhulu ngokuhlangana kwalo ne-puer:

• I-Xiao qing gan (小青柑 xiǎo qīng gān) — i-mandarin encane eluhlaza, ikhishwe ingaphakathi futhi yagcwaliswa nge-shu-puer, yabe isomiswa. Ihlanganisa ubusha obupholile bekhasi eliluhlaza nobumnene obunothuli betiye.
• I-Da hong gan (大红柑 dàhóng gān) — isithelo esikhulu esivuthiwe, ngokufanayo sigcwaliswe nge-puer: ukumnika kumnandi kakhudlwana, kufudumele, kuthambile.

Kulezi zinhlobo, ikhasi netiye kwenziwa ndawonye, kushintshana ngamaphunga; ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, i-gan-puer enjalo nayo iyakhula.

Ungabona kanjani ubuqiniso

Izinkomba ezimbalwa zisiza ukuhlukanisa i-Xīnhuì chénpí yangempela kumazanye namanye amakhasi amisiwe anemvelaphi ehlukile:

• Indlela yokusika. Ukusikwa okuphawulekayo “okungama-cembe” okunesisekelo esixhumene — kuwuphawu lokukhiqizwa kwezandla kwase-Xinhui.
• Ukuthungwa nezindlala zamafutha. Ingaphakathi (ucwecwe olumhlophe, i-albedo) liyavuleka, likhanyile; ingaphandle — linamachashazi ezinhlala zamafutha abonakala kahle, aminyene. Ekukhanyeni, ikhasi elidala libukeka “linamafutha”.
• Umbala ngokuya ngeminyaka. Elincane — linsundu ngokubomvu ngokuluhlaza noma ngokubomvu; eleminyaka eminingi — linsundu ngokumnyama ngokujulile, licishe libe yinsundu yoshokoledi, kodwa ngaphandle kwezimpawu zesikhutha.
• Iphunga. Ikhasi langempela elimisiwe linuka kuhle futhi ngenkimbinkimbi — i-citrus, uju, izinkuni, isinongo esincane; iphunga elinuka isikhutha, ukubola noma elinuka “amakhemikhali” ngokuqinile — kuwuphawu oluyisixwayiso.
• Ukuziphatha ekumnikweni. Ikhasi elihle limelana namaphrili amaningi, linikela ngephunga kancane kancane, ngaphandle kobubaba obuhlabayo.
• Umsuka. Imingcele eshiwo yeminyaka nendawo kufanele iqinisekiswe — qaphela ngekhasi “elidala kakhulu” ngentengo ephansi ngokusolisayo.

Umlando kanye namasiko

Isiko lekhasi elimisiwe endaweni lapho umfula i-Zhujiang uhlangana khona nolwandle lakheka phakathi namakhulu eminyaka: izingadi ze-citrus zase-Xinhui kwakuyisitshalo sohwebo kusukela kudala, futhi umkhuba wokugcina nokwenza ikhasi “liguge” kwaguqula umkhiqizo oyinsalela waba inani elizimele. Ekuphekeni kwe-Cantonese, i-chénpí iyisinongo sakudala: yengezwa emasobheni, ezitsheni eziphekiwe, kumadessert nakumasosi, lapho inikeza khona ukujula nobubaba obuncane.

Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, kwakheka nobukhulu bokuqoqa: ikhasi elidala lase-Xinhui liyagcinwa, lidluliselwe futhi lihlonishwe ngokufana ne-puer emisiwe, lapho iminyaka, umsuka kanye nezimo zokugcina zinquma idumela nentengo. Namuhla, i-Xīnhuì chénpí — iyisithako sokupheka, into yesiko letiye, kanye nomkhiqizo owaziwayo wesifunda sase-Guangdong, oxhumene ngokuqinile nesiko le-gan-puer.