Xiāofǎ Tuó

Xiāofǎ tuó (销法沱) — i-tuo shape ye-shu pu’er yaseXiaguan (下关), eyakhelwe ukuthunyelwa eFrance. Igama ngokwayo lisho ngokwezwi nezwi ukuthi «i-tuo ethengiswa [ngomugqa] weFrance» (销 xiāo — «ukudayisa», 法 fǎ — «iFrance», 沱 tuó — «umumo we-tuo»), futhi ngemuva kwaleli gama elifushane kunenye yezindaba zokuthunyelwa kwetiye laseChina emazweni aphesheya ezidume kakhulu zekhulu lama-20.

Ekuhlelweni kwe-shu pu’er, izinto eziningi eziyinsumansumane zimakwa ngezinombolo 唛号 (izinombolo zeresiphi) ezinezimpawu ezine: 7572, 7581, 8592, 7262. I-Xiāofǎ tuó iyaphambuka kulolu chungechunge — akuyona iresiphi ye-唛号, kodwa umumo owaziwayo (形制), oxhumene nenhloso ethile (ukuthunyelwa emazweni aphesheya) kanye nomkhiqizi othile. Ngakho-ke, kumakhathalogi ivele hhayi njengenkomba «yeresiphi enenombolo», kodwa njengomlando kanye nokwenzeka kwezimakethe: ukungena okokuqala okuhlelekile kwe-pu’er yaseChina evutshiwe emakethe yaseNtshonalanga.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

• Uhlobo: i-shu pu’er (熟普), i-pu’er evutshiwe emumo we-tuo.
• Isigaba: akuyona iresiphi ye-唛号, kodwa umumo (形制) kanye nomugqa wokuthunyelwa emazweni aphesheya, oxhumene nenhloso ethile kanye nomkhiqizi; kumakhathalogi ivele njengomlando kanye nokwenzeka kwezimakethe, hhayi njengenkomba «yeresiphi enenombolo».
• Imvelaphi: iXiaguan (下关), indawo eyaziwayo yetiye eningizimu yesifundazwe saseYunnan, esifundeni sedolobha iDali (大理).
• Izinhlobo/I-cultivar: uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu aseYunnan (云南大叶种 Yúnnán dàyèzhŏng) — uhlobo lwamacembe amakhulu esihlahla setiye Camellia sinensis var. assamica.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Inguquko enkulu — ngo-1976, lapho itiye lalolu hlobo laqala ukuthunyelwa eFrance. Lo mugqa wokuthunyelwa emazweni aphesheya wawunikeza igama layo elithi 销法沱.

Ukubaluleka kwalesi senzakalo kunzima ukukweqisa: kwakuwukufika okokuqala okuhlelekile kwe-pu’er yaseChina emakethe yabathengi baseNtshonalanga, futhi hhayi ngesimo sentengiso yezinto ezingavamile, kodwa njengempahla evamile. Umngenisi waseFrance (emithonjeni kuvela igama elithi 雷弗尔) wakha ukudayiswa okuzinzile kwe-tuo, okwenza ukuthi «indishi» encane yaseXiaguan ihlale icishe ibe wubuso obaziwa kakhulu be-pu’er yaseChina eYurophu amashumi eminyaka — isikhathi eside ngaphambi kokuba i-pu’er ibe yisigaba semfashini sokuqoqwa eChina uqobo.

Obunye obuhlukile emlandweni we-Xiāofǎ tuó idumela layo njengokuthunyelwa kokuqala kwetiye laseChina emazweni aphesheya elinokuma «okuphilayo» — okungukuthi, umkhiqizo owawufika emakethe yaseNtshonalanga usuvele uqondiswe emibonweni yomthengi waseYurophu ngobunjalo bemvelo nokulawulwa kwekhwalithi. Embonini yetiye laseChina, lokhu kwakungamava okuqala nabalulekile okusebenza nezimfuneko zangaphandle zokuqinisekiswa kwekhwalithi nokuzinza kwamaqoqo.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo kanye Nezinto Ezingavuthiwe:

• Izinto ezingavuthiwe: izinto eziyisisekelo zetiye le-pu’er laseYunnan — uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu esihlahla setiye Camellia sinensis var. assamica, uhlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu aseYunnan (云南大叶种 Yúnnán dàyèzhŏng). Icecane lalolu hlobo licebile ngezinto ezikhishwayo kanye ne-polyphenol, okuyikho okunikeza i-pu’er uketshezi oluminyene, «olujiyile» kanye namandla amahle okufefenywa okumanzi.
• Izinga lobumnene: eduze nomumo we-tuo, ngokomlando, kwakusetshenziswa ngokuyinhloko izinto ezingavuthiwe ezisezingeni elimaphakathi lobumnene — hhayi izinga eliphezulu kakhulu le-tip, kodwa futhi hhayi elimahhadlahhadla: ukuvumelana phakathi kwephunga lamathupha, ukuminyana koketshezi, kanye nokuzinza kokucindezela. Lobu «bumnene obuphakathi» bezinto ezingavuthiwe — kungenye yezizathu ezibangela ukuthi i-Xiāofǎ tuó ibonakale njenge-shu ephakathi nendawo enhle yansuku zonke, hhayi njengesigaba se-premium «sasesigodlweni» (宫廷).

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokutshalwa:

Indawo yasekhaya ye-Xiāofǎ tuó — iXiaguan (下关), indawo eyaziwayo yetiye eningizimu yesifundazwe saseYunnan, esifundeni sedolobha iDali (大理). I-Xiaguan kusukela ezikhathini zangaphambi koguquko yayiyisikhungo sokucindezela kanye nokuhlelwa kwezohwebo: lapha kwakufika izinto ezingavuthiwe ezivela ezintabeni ezihlukahlukene entshonalanga naseningizimu yeYunnan, lapha zazihlungwa, zixutshwe, futhi zicindezelwe zibe yimifushane yomumo wohambo. Yile ndima ngempela ye-«workshop yokuhlanganisa» eyanquma isitayela esiyingqayizivele sefemu — ukusebenza hhayi ngepulazi elilodwa lendawo, kodwa ngezinhlanganisela ezivivinyiwe zezinto ezivela ezifundeni ezahlukahlukene.

Isimo sezulu sase-Dali — yisimo sezulu sezintaba eziphakeme, esinokuhluka okubonakalayo kwamazinga okushisa phakathi nosuku nobusuku kanye nomoya omile, onomoya omuhle ngokuqhathaniswa ne-Xishuangbanna enomswakama. Lesi simo sezulu esincane ngokwesiko sithathwa njengengxenye «yomlingiswa waseXiaguan» wokucindezela nokugcinwa.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

I-Xiāofǎ tuó — iyi-shu pu’er (熟普), okungukuthi itiye elidlule ekufefenyweni okwenziwa ngokushesha okusheshisayo.

Isigaba esibalulekile — 渥堆 wòduī, «ukugoqwa okumanzi»: izinto ezingavuthiwe eziyimvuthuluka (máochá) ziyamanziswa, ziqoqwe zibe yizinqwaba ezinkulu, futhi zigcinwe ngaphansi kokulawulwa kwezinga lokushisa nomswakama. Ngaphakathi kwenqwaba, ukuguqulwa kwe-microbial kanye ne-thermochemical kuyenzeka, lapho ama-polyphenol e-oxidize futhi aguquke, ukubaba okuluhlaza nokuqina kuyaphela, bese kuvela enkomishini uketshezi olumnyama oluyisici, ukuthamba, kanye namathoni omhlabathi-ushukela, «avuthiwe». Ubuchwepheshe 渥堆 bacwengisiswa maphakathi nawo-1970 futhi yikho okwenza ukukhiqizwa kwe-pu’er emnyama ezinzile, efaneleka ngokushesha ukuphuzwa, kwemakethe enkulu neyokuthunyelwa emazweni aphesheya kwenzeka.

Ngemuva kokufefenywa, izinto ze-shu ezomisiwe zilungiswa zibe yinhlanganisela efiselekayo bese zicindezelwa zibe yi-tuo (沱) — umumo oyisici «wendishi» onomgodi ngaphansi. Ukwakheka kwe-tuo — kuyingqayizivele ye-Xiaguan: emincane, elungele ukuthuthwa nokusetshenziswa ngezabelo, kwaba wuphawu lwefemu eminyakeni edlule, ngesikhathi lapho itiye lalihanjiswa ngemizila yezohwebo liye entshonalanga nasenyakatho-ntshonalanga yeChina.

6. Izimpawu Zokuhlola Ngezitho Zomzimba:

Enkomishini i-Xiāofǎ tuó — iphrofayili evamile, kodwa ehlanganiswe kahle ye-shu: uketshezi olumnyama, olusobala-olunsundu ngokukhanyayo, isisekelo esithambile somhlabathi-wezinkuni esingenakho ukuqina, ubumnandi obuzolile bokunambitheka kwangemuva. Ngenxa yobumnene «obuphakathi» bezinto ezingavuthiwe kanye nokucindezela kwe-tuo, itiye limelana nokuthelwa okuningana, liveza kancane kancane ukuminyana komzimba.

9. Ukusetjenziswa:

Izinkombandlela ezisebenzayo zokuthela (indlela ye-gōngfū):

• Isitsha: i-gaiwan noma inhlabathi eminyene; inhlabathi yengeza ukulungisa amathoni omhlabathi.
• Ukuwasha: ukuhlambulula okukodwa noma okubili okufushane, «ukuvusa» ucezu olucindezelwe kanye nokukhipha uthuli lokufefenywa.
• Amanzi: asondele ku-100 °C — i-shu pu’er ithanda amanzi abilayo abukhali.
• Ukuthelwa: okokuqala — kufushane (imizuzwana embalwa), bese kuba nokwenyuka kancane kancane kwesikhathi sokumunyiswa.

Umumo we-tuo ucindezelwa uminyene impela, ngakho-ke ucezu kufanele luhlukaniswe ngokucophelela ngommese-umsuka ngokwezingqimba, ungalicoboshi icembe libe wuthuli, — lokhu kunikeza ukukhishwa okulinganayo.

11. Intengo kanye Nemikhigizo Engelona Ngaqo:

Ohlelweni lwamazinga kahulumeni, i-Xiāofǎ tuó ingaphansi kwesigaba se-pu’er-shu (熟普, i-pu’er evutshiwe) ekumumo we-tuo. Lokhu kusho ukuthi izimfuneko ezijwayelekile ze-pu’er ziyasebenza kuyo: imvelaphi yezinto ezingavuthiwe endaweni yaseYunnan, ukusetshenziswa kohlobo lwamaqabunga amakhulu, ukudlula ekufefenyweni okumanzi 渥堆 kohlobo lwe-shu, kanye nokuhambisana nezimiso zomumo nokucindezela.

Njengoba i-Xiāofǎ tuó — ingumumo kanye nomugqa wokuthunyelwa emazweni aphesheya, hhayi iresiphi ye-唛号 enombolo eqinisekisiwe yefemu, izinkomba ezithile zeresiphi azimisiwe ngemuva kwayo ethebuleni elijwayelekile le-唛号. Asikhumbuze umqondo wokufunda izinombolo ukuze uqhathanise: ku-唛号 enezimpawu ezine, izimpawu ezimbili zokuqala — unyaka wokwakhiwa kweresiphi, eyesithathu — izinga lobumnene bezinto ezingavuthiwe (encane, iba mnene ngokwengeziwe), eyesine — ikhodi yefemu (1 — iKunming, 2 — iMenghai, 3 — iXiaguan, 4 — iPuer). I-Xiāofǎ tuó ayingeni kulolu hlelo lwekhodi ngoba ubunikazi bayo bunqunywa umumo nenhloso, hhayi ikhodi yeresiphi.

Ungahlukanisa kanjani futhi ungaphambanisi:

• Ukusuka kuma-shu ama-bing anezinombolo (7572, 8592, 7262): I-Xiāofǎ tuó — iyi-tuo, hhayi i-bing (饼), futhi ibonwa ngokuyinhloko ngomumo nemvelaphi yaseXiaguan, hhayi nge-唛号.
• Ukusuka ku-shu isitini 7581 (中茶, iKunming): enye ifemu, omunye umumo (砖 ngokuqhathaniswa 沱).
• Ukusuka ku-pu’er «yasesigodlweni» (宫廷): I-Xiāofǎ tuó yenziwe ngezinto ezingavuthiwe ezimaphakathi ngobumnene futhi ingeyengxenye emaphakathi, kanti i-gōngtíng — iyizinga eliphezulu kakhulu lobumnene (amathupha/iqabunga elimnene kakhulu).
• Ukusuka ku-老茶头: lokhu kuwumkhiqizo oseceleni we-渥堆 — izigaxa ezizinamathele ngokwazo, hhayi i-tuo ebunjiwe.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

• Umaka oyinhloko wencazelo lapho uhlonzwa ulula: i-Xiāofǎ tuó — yindaba emayelana nomumo nokuthunyelwa emazweni aphesheya, emayelana ne-tuo yaseXiaguan, okwathi ngo-1976 yavulela imakethe yaseNtshonalanga ukunambitheka kwe-pu’er yaseYunnan evutshiwe.
• «Indishi» encane yaseXiaguan ihlale icishe ibe wubuso obaziwa kakhulu be-pu’er yaseChina eYurophu amashumi eminyaka — isikhathi eside ngaphambi kokuba i-pu’er ibe yisigaba semfashini sokuqoqwa eChina uqobo.