lóngshén chá

I-Longshen cha (龙神茶) ne-Bikou Longjing (碧口龙井) ngamatiye aluhlaza ahlobene avela eningizimu yeGansu, ngasosebeni loMfula i-White Dragon (白龙江, Báilóngjiāng). Lena indawo esentshonalanga kakhulu yebhande elikhulu letiye enyakatho yoMfula i-Yangtze (江北, Jiāngběi), lapho isiko letiye lincike ezinhlotsheni ezethulwe kwamanye amazwe kanye nezigodi eziwumngcingo ezinemifula.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

• Uhlobo: itiye eliluhlaza (绿茶, lǜchá).
• Isigaba: míngyōu — ‘ikhwalithi enegama’; ngokwesimo semakethe 口粮–中, itiye ‘lesigaba sokusetshenziswa nsuku zonke-phakathi nendawo’ — umkhiqizo wendawo onekhwalithi enhle, hhayi uhlobo lwemikhiqizo ethunyelwa kwamanye amazwe olusezingeni eliphezulu.
• Imvelaphi: isifunda sezintaba saseLongnan (陇南, Lǒngnán) eningizimu yesifundazwe saseGansu, emngceleni weSichuan neShaanxi. Izingadi zetiye zigxile edolobhaneni laseBikou (碧口, Bìkǒu) nasezigodini ezisikwe uMfula i-White Dragon (白龙江, Báilóngjiāng).
• Indawo: umkhawulo osentshonalanga ngokwedlulele wendawo yaseJiangbei (江北, Jiāngběi) — indawo esentshonalanga kakhulu yebhande elikhulu letiye enyakatho yeYangtze, lapho ngale kwayo itiye lingasavuthwa.
• Amagama amabili — izinhlobo ezimbili: i-Bikou Longjing (碧口龙井) iwukwakheka okuyisicaba, ‘okufana ne-longjing’; i-Longshen cha (龙神茶) iwukwakheka okusontekile, okunemicu.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Ukutshalwa kwetiye eningizimu yeGansu kuyinto esencane uma kuqhathaniswa, umphumela wokwethulwa kwesiko enyakatho ngekhulu lama-20, futhi ngalo mqondo i-Bikou ikusigaba esisodwa netiye ‘elisha’ laseShandong nelaseShaanxi. Kodwa ngokwendawo, lokhu kuyisenzakalo esikhethekile: i-Longnan iyindawo okuwukuphela kwayo enetiye ngempela kuso sonke isifundazwe saseGansu, ‘ulimi’ lwesimo sezulu olungavamile oluseningizimu enomswakama, olunwebeka ngaseMfuleni i-White Dragon.

Lo mfula ngokwawo ungumthambo wamanzi namasiko walesi sifunda: izigodi zawo kusukela endulo bezisebenza njengomhubhe phakathi komcengezi waseSichuan nasenyakatho-ntshonalanga. Ukuthuthukiswa kwetiye e-Bikou kuncike kulokhu kuxhumana — ukusondelana namasiko etiye aseSichuan naseShaanxi, lapho kwavela khona izinhlobo nezindlela zokwenza, kuhlanganise nokugadla kwe-longjing. E-Gansu uqobo, itiye lendawo liwumthombo wokuziqhenya kwesifunda: ubufakazi bokuthi ngisho nasenyakatho-ntshonalanga eyomile kunendawo yayo encane yezingadi eziluhlaza.

3. Ukuchazwa Kwesayensi Yezitshalo kanye Nezinto Zokusetshenziswa:

Izinto zokusetshenziswa zivunwa njenge-míngqián (明前), okungukuthi ngaphambi koMkhosi we-Qingming, okuhambisana nesigaba se-míngyōu — ‘ikhwalithi enegama’. Ukuvuna kusenesikhathi kusho ihlumela elincane, elinteketentekile neqabunga, elikhule ngesikhathi sasentwasahlobo eside nesibandayo. Ukukhula kancane emngceleni obandayo kuhlanganisa ukunambitheka futhi kunikeza iqabunga eliminyene nelinothile — isici esijwayelekile samatiye asemngceleni osenyakatho.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokutshala:

Ngokombono wejografi yetiye, lesi yisimo esiyingqayizivele. I-Gansu yisifundazwe esisenyakatho-ntshonalanga eyomile, ehlotshaniswa kakhulu namathafa kanye ne-Silk Road kunamathala etiye. Kodwa ingxenye eseningizimu ye-Longnan isethunzini lezintaba, lapho isimo sezulu sishintsha kakhulu: umoya onomswakama okhuphuka usuka emcengezini waseSichuan uyasebenza lapha, ihlobo lifudumele futhi linemvula, kanti izintaba zinikeza umehluko wokuphakama kanye nenkungu eqhubekayo. Kungalesi sizathu i-Bikou nezigodi ezingomakhelwane bakha ‘i-oasis eluhlaza’ elihlukanisiwe — umkhawulo osentshonalanga ngokwedlulele wendawo yaseJiangbei, lapho ngale kwayo itiye lingasavuthwa.

I-terroir lapha inqunywa yizici ezintathu: izihosha zoMfula i-White Dragon ezinokukhanya okuhlakazekile nomswakama ophezulu; izindawo eziphakeme ngokumaphakathi ezinobusuku obupholile, okunciphisa ukukhula kwamahlumela; kanye nenhlabathi yasezintabeni ene-asidi emithambekeni. Ngokuhlangene, lokhu kunikeza izinto zokusetshenziswa ezineqabunga eliminyene nelinothile — isici esijwayelekile samatiye asemngceleni osenyakatho, lapho ukukhula kancane kuhlanganisa ukunambitheka.

• Izinhlobo / I-cultivar: ekuhlukaniseni komthombo, i-Longshen / Bikou Longjing ingaphansi kwesigaba 引种 (yǐnzhǒng) — ‘okwethuliwe’, okusho ukuthi itshalwe ngezinhlobo ezilethwe kwamanye amazwe, hhayi kubantu bendawo basendulo. Lokhu kwenza itiye laseGansu lifane nezingxenye eziningi zezindawo ezintsha zetiye ezisenyakatho — iShandong, izifunda ezisenyakatho yeShaanxi — lapho ukutshalwa kwetiye ngezimboni kwathuthuka ngekhulu lama-20 ngokudluliswa kwezinhlobo ezivela eningizimu.
• Ezingadini zaseLongnan, ukutshalwa kwezinhlobo ezethuliwe kuhlala ndawonye ne-群体种 (qúntǐ zhǒng) — izixube zezitshalo ezitshalwe ngembewu, ezijwayele kancane kancane izimo zasendaweni. Yilokhu kujwayela — iminyaka yokukhethwa kwezitshalo ezisinde ebusika obubandayo naseqandeni lasentwasahlobo elinethuba elide emngceleni osentshonalanga — okunikeza itiye isimo esihlukile kunezinhlobo eziseningizimu ‘ezingomama’.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

I-Longshen ne-Bikou Longjing ngamatiye aluhlaza akudala (绿茶, lǜchá): i-oxidation icindezelwa esigabeni sokuqala ukuze kulondolozwe ukusha kweqabunga kanye nephrofayili eluhlaza yokuncwetshwa. Izinto zokusetshenziswa zivunwa njenge-míngqián (明前), ngaphambi koMkhosi we-Qingming.

Isimo seqabunga kulawa matiye siyinto embaxambili — 条/扁形 (tiáo / biǎn xíng), esontekile noma eyisicaba. Lokhu kuyisihluthulelo sokuqonda amagama amabili:

• I-Bikou Longjing (碧口龙井) iwukwakheka okuyisicaba, ‘okufana ne-longjing’. Iqabunga liyacindezelwa futhi lisheleliswe ebhodweni elishisayo, linikezwe isimo esibushelelezi, esiyisicaba ngokwesibonelo se-Lóngjǐng yaseZhejiang edumile. Igama likhomba ngqo kulesi sitayela: ‘i-longjing yaseBikou’.
• I-Longshen cha (龙神茶) iwukwakheka okusontekile, okunemicu, lapho iqabunga ligcina isimo elide.

Zombili izindlela zilandela uchungechunge oluyisisekelo lwetiye eliluhlaza: ukubuna / ukuhlalisa → ukulungisa umbala oluhlaza (杀青, shāqīng) → ukwakheka → ukomisa. Kulolunye uhlobo oluyisicaba, ukwakheka nokulungisa kuhlangene kakhulu ekugadleni ngesandla noma ngomshini ebhodweni; kolunye olunemicu, iqabunga liyasontekwa kuqala, bese lomiswa ekugcineni. Umehluko esimweni sokugcina ngenkathi kunephrofayili evamile eluhlaza kuwumkhuba ovamile ezifundeni ezithathe izitayela zase ningizimu ezihlonishwayo: izingcweti zendawo zamukela inqubo ye-Longjing, zanikeza itiye igama elaziwayo.

6. Izici Ze-Organoleptic:

Iphrofayili inqunywa umqondo womngcele osenyakatho: iqabunga eliminyene, elikhula kancane linikeza ukuncwetshwa okunothe kakhulu futhi ‘okugcwele’ emzimbeni kunamanye amatiye athambe aseningizimu asentwasahlobo. Kusuka etiyeni eliluhlaza laseJiangbei, okulindelekile yilokhu:

• ukuncwetshwa okuhlanzekile, okuluhlaza okusobala noma okuphuzi-luhlaza;
• ukunambitheka okusha, okumunyu kancane okunomzimba ozwakalayo;
• ithoni eluhlaza-wamantongomane, ‘ye-chestnut’, ejwayelekile kumatiye amaningi asenyakatho, ekhigizwe ukulungiselela ebhodweni;
• ukunambitheka okuthambile nokuhlala isikhashana ngemva kokugwinya.

Uhlobo oluyisicaba (i-Bikou Longjing) lusondelene kakhulu nemfundiso ye-longjing ngokwethulwa — inothi elomile, elithosiwe kanye neqabunga elibushelelezi; olunemicu (i-Longshen) lunikeza ukuncwetshwa okugcwele kancane, okusontekile.

9. Ukuphisa:

Izincomo zokuphisa zijwayelekile etiyeni eliluhlaza elintekentekile:

• amanzi angu-80–85 °C, ungaze wasebenzisa amanzi abilayo aphelele, ngoba kungenjalo ihlumela elintekentekile ‘liyophekwa’ futhi likhiphe umunyu;
• umthamo omncane, cishe wamagremu angu-3 ku-150 ml;
• ingilazi noma i-gàiwǎn, ukuze ukwazi ukubona ‘umdanso’ wamahlumela;
• ezintweni ezisetshenziswayo eziyintengekentenge ze-míngqián, indlela ‘yokugalela phezulu’ (上投法, shàngtóu fǎ) ifanelekile — amaqabunga athelwa emanzini asegalelwe kakade;
• ukugqumuzela okufushane okungu-2–3, ubukele lapho iqabunga livuleka.

11. Intengo kanye Nemikhiqizo Yomgunyathi:

I-Longshen / Bikou Longjing itiye lesifunda elinokubaluleka kwasendaweni, futhi akukho zinga elithile lezwe likazwelonke i-GB/T ngaphansi kwaleli gama eliqondile eliqoshiwe ezintweni zokuqala. Njengekhofi le-green tea, ingaphansi kwemithetho ejwayelekile yetiye eliluhlaza lase-PRC, elawula ukuhlukaniswa ngezigaba kanye nesizini yokuvuna, kodwa ukunikeza inombolo yezinga elihlukile ngaphandle kokuqinisekiswa ngeke kube okunembile. Ngokwesimo semakethe, lokhu kungu-口粮–中 — itiye ‘lesigaba sokusetshenziswa nsuku zonke-phakathi nendawo’: umkhiqizo wendawo onekhwalithi enhle, hhayi uhlobo lomkhiqizo othunyelwa kwamanye amazwe olusezingeni eliphezulu.

Izinkomba ezimbalwa zokuthi ungaphambanisi itiye laseGansu nomakhelwane basemngceleni waseJiangbei:

• Imvelaphi. I-Longshen / Bikou Longjing yangempela ivela esifundeni saseLongnan eningizimu yeGansu, ngasosebeni loMfula i-White Dragon. Lena indawo engasentshonalanga yawo wonke umkhawulo waseJiangbei; ayikho ‘indawo yasendulo yetiye’ lapha — izinhlobo zethulwe kwamanye amazwe.
• Izinhlobo ezimbili ngaphansi kwamagama amabili. Uma phambi kwakho kuneqabunga eliyisicaba, elishelelezisiwe ‘ngaphansi kwe-Longjing’ — kungenzeka ukuthi i-Bikou Longjing; uma kusontekile, inemicu — i-Longshen cha. Iphrofayili yetiye eliluhlaza ifana kuzona zombili.
• Umzimba wokuncwetshwa. Ngokungafani namatiye athambe aseningizimu asentwasahlobo, iqabunga lasenyakatho linikeza ukunambitheka okuminyene, okunothe kakhulu ngokugcwala okubonakalayo kanye nethoni ye-chestnut — umphumela wokukhula kancane emngceleni obandayo.
• Ungaphambanisi nezilinganiso. I-Bikou Longjing iwukwakheka kwesitayela ‘ngendlela ye-Longjing’, hhayi i-Xīhú Lóngjǐng yaseZhejiang; akufanele ifune isimo nentengo yale yokugcina. Le yititi lesifunda elithembekile lesigaba sokusetshenziswa nsuku zonke ephakathi nendawo.
• Okulindelekile okungokoqobo. I-Longshen / Bikou Longjing ibaluleke kakhulu njengento eyisimanga ngokwendawo kanye netiye eliluhlaza lendawo elinekhwalithi enhle — inqaba esentshonalanga kakhulu yebhande elikhulu laseJiangbei — hhayi njengomkhiqizo wezinga eliphezulu wokuqoqa.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

• I-Bikou nezigodi ezingomakhelwane bakha ‘i-oasis eluhlaza’ elihlukanisiwe — ‘ulimi’ lwesimo sezulu olungavamile olunenomswakama waseningizimu, olunwebeka ngaseMfuleni i-White Dragon eGansu eyomile esenyakatho-ntshonalanga.
• I-Longnan iyindawo okuwukuphela kwayo enetiye ngempela kuso sonke isifundazwe saseGansu.
• Izigodi zoMfula i-White Dragon kusukela endulo bezisebenza njengomhubhe phakathi komcengezi waseSichuan nasenyakatho-ntshonalanga; ngale ndlela ezeza eBikou izinhlobo nezindlela zokwenza, kuhlanganise nokugadla kwe-longjing.