lǎo qīng chá

老青茶 (lǎo qīng chá, “itiye eliluhlaza elidala”) akusona isiphuzo senkomishi, kodwa isisekelo sezinto ezingavuthiwe: okuyisisekelo esimahhadlahhadla, esivuthiwe esimnyama, okuyisona esisetshenziselwa ukucindezela isitini esiluhlaza esidumile 青砖茶 (qīng zhuān chá) eningizimu yesifundazwe saseHubei. Ukuzwisisa iHubei njengesinye sezikhungo zomlando zetiye elimnyama (黑茶, hēi chá) akunakwenzeka ngaphandle kokuqala ngalesi sisekelo.

Umsuka kanye ne-Terroir

Inhliziyo yokukhiqiza yidolobhana i-羊楼洞 (Yánglóudòng) esifundeni, namuhla esibizwa ngegama elithi 赤壁 (Chìbì, “Itshe Elibomvu”), futhi ngaphambi kuka-1998 lalibizwa ngokuthi 蒲圻 (Púqí). Ngokokuphatha, lokhu kuyinngizimu yeHubei, isifunda sase-咸宁 (Xiánníng) — indawo enamagquma, enomswakama lapho kuhlangana khona imifula nezintaba eziphansi zomfula iYangtze.

Isimo sezulu lapha siwusubtropical monsoon: izimvula eziningi zasehlobo, ikwindla efudumele futhi ende, nenkungu evamile ezigodini. Inhlabathi — wubomvu obolile kanye nophuzi ophuzi emadwaleni e-slate nase-sandstone, e-acidic futhi edonsa kahle amanzi. Yingxube yomswakama nokufudumala okwanele okuvumela isihlahla ukuba sikhulise iqabunga elikhulu, eliminyene elinokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwe-polyphenol — yilokho okuyisisekelo esimahhadlahhadla, okwakungathathwa njengokukhule ngokweqile kumatiye aluhlaza amnene, kodwa lapha kuyinjwayelo futhi kuyinzuzo.

Ukubaluleka komlando weYangloudong kukhulu kunesifunda esisodwa: kusuka lapha kwakunwebeka “Indlela Enkulu Yetiye” (万里茶道, wànlǐ chádào) — umzila wezinqola neyemifula, lapho itiye elicindezelwe lalihanjiswa nge-Hankou (汉口) liya enyakatho, eMongolia, eSiberia, nakude ezimakethe zaseRussia. Lokhu kugxila kwangaphandle kwanquma bonke ubuchwepheshe: itiye lenziwa ukuba likwazi ukuthuthwa, ligcinwe isikhathi eside, futhi likulungele ukuphekwa nobisi nosawoti.

Izinhlobonhlobo

Isisekelo seHubei esiluhlaza esidala sisekelwe ohlotsheni lwendawo lwabantu abaningi — 本地群体种 (běndì qúntǐ zhǒng), i-landrace yaseningizimu yeHubei yezihlahla, eyakhiwe emakhulwini eminyaka ezungeze iYangloudong nePuqi. Le akuyona i-clone, kodwa iyisixuku sembewu exubile enokuhlukahluka okubanzi kofuzo: amaqabunga ahlukahlukene, ukukhuthazela, kanye nekhono lokukhiqiza inqwaba yeqabunga elimahhadlahhadla, eligcwele i-polyphenol.

Esitinini esiluhlaza, lolu hlobo lufaneleka kahle: inhloso akukhona ubumnene beqhuma, kodwa ihlumela elivuthiwe elinamaqabunga amaningi elikwazi ukumelana ne-渥堆 (wòduī, ukubola okumanzi), ukucindezelwa okulandelayo, nokuvuthwa iminyaka eminingi.

Ubuchwepheshe

Ukwakhiwa kwe-老青茶 kuhluke ngokuphelele kumatiye aluhlaza amancane futhi kwenziwa “ngezigaba” ezimbili zezinto ezingavuthiwe, eziyobe sezihlukana ngesitini kamuva.

Ukulandelana okuyisisekelo:

• 杀青 (shāqīng) — ukulungiswa, ukumisa ama-enzyme ngokushisa, njengasetiyeni eliluhlaza, kodwa kulungiselwe izinto ezingavuthiwe ezimahhadla.
• 揉捻 (róuniǎn) — ukusonta, ukuphula isakhiwo samangqamuzana eqabunga.
• 渥堆 (wòduī) — isinyathelo esibalulekile setiye elimnyama: inqwaba yamaqabunga ifakwa ezindundumeni ezimanzi futhi ivunyelwe ukuba yenze “ukuphamba” kwe-microbial-enzymatic. Lapha kuvela umbala omnyama, ubumnene, nethoni yokuvuthwa okuyisici.
• 复揉 (fùróu) — ukusonta okuphindwe kabili ngemva kwenqwaba.
• 晒干 (shàigān) — ukomiswa, ngokwesiko elangeni.

Ngenxa yalokhu, kutholakala izinto ezingavuthiwe zezigaba ezahlukahlukene, ezibekwa ngezendlalelo ekukhiqizeni isitini:

• 面茶 (miànchá) — itiye “lobuso”, elithe xaxa, lisetshenziselwa izendlalelo zangaphandle ezingaphezulu nezingaphansi; ngezinye izikhathi lisetshenziselwa ukwenza 洒面 (sǎmiàn) — ukusakaza phezu kobuso.
• 里茶 (lǐchá) — itiye “langaphakathi”, limahhadla kakhulu, ligcwalisa maphakathi nesitini.

Isisekelo esiluhlaza esidala esiqediwe siyaphekwa ngomusi futhi sicindezelwe sibe izimo. Isiko laseHubei lazi izimo ezimbalwa (形制, xíngzhì): isitini (砖, zhuān), itiye elixegayo (散, sǎn), izimbenge nokuluka (篓/篮, lǒu / lán), kanye “nezinsika” zetiye (柱, zhù). Isitini esinamandla, esingunxande, esikulungele ukuthuthwa ngezinqola, yisona esigqamile.

Engxenyeni yomkhiqizo waseHubei, njengakumugqa we-茯砖 (fú zhuān) kusuka e-Anhua naseShaanxi, kwenziwa umzamo oqondile wokwenza 发花 (fāhuā) — ukukhula “kwembali esagolide” i-金花 (jīn huā), isikhunta esizuzisayo i-Eurotium cristatum, esinikeza izizukulwane zezinhlamvu eziphuzi ngokugqamile ngaphakathi kwesitini. Lesi sici asijwayelekile esitini eliluhlaza, kodwa siyingxenye yezikhali zesifunda.

Amazinga kanye nezigaba

I-老青茶 iyingxenye yomkhakha wamatiye amnyama (黑茶) kanye neqembu lamatiye acindezelwe (紧压茶, jǐnyāchá). Ukukhiqizwa kwezinto ezingavuthiwe kanye nesitini esiluhlaza esiqediwe kulawulwa amazinga kahulumeni embonini ochungechungeni lwe-GB/T, aqopha izigaba zezinto ezingavuthiwe (面茶 / 里茶), imingcele yokucindezela, umswakama, ne-organoleptic. Izinombolo ezithile zamazinga azinikezwanga ngenhloso lapha, ukuze kungathathelwa indawo umqulu ngenkumbulo.

Ukuhlukaniswa okubalulekile — ngemizila yokuthengisa (channel), okwakumisa

ngokomlando iresiphi nohlobo:

• 边销 (biānxiāo) — “ukuhweba ngasemngceleni”, umzila womlando oyinhloko: itiye lezizwe ezifuyayo ezisenyakatho nasenyakatho-ntshonalanga.
• 侨销 (qiáoxiāo) — elomiphakathi yamaShayina aphesheya.
• 内销 (nèixiāo) — imakethe yasekhaya.
• 出口 (chūkǒu) — ukuthekelisa.

Esinye isici esiyisisekelo — ukuvuthwa: amatiye amnyama aseHubei angamalungu ohlobo 越陈越好 (yuè chén yuè hǎo), “indala yiyona engcono”, futhi uma igcinwe ngendlela efanele, ijula ngokuhamba kweminyaka.

Ukunambitheka kanye nokwenza itiye

Ukumnika kwesisekelo esiluhlaza esidala kanye nesitini esiluhlaza — kusuka kusawolintshi omnyama kuya kobomvu nsundu, kucacile kumasampula avuthiwe. Ukunambitheka kuminyene, kuthambile, ngaphandle kobukhali obumuncu betiye eliluhlaza elisencane: izici ezivelele ezokuvuthwa (陈, chén), izinkuni, amaqabunga omile, ngezinye izikhathi ubumnandi obuthambile ngemuva kokunambitheka. Uma kukhona i-金花, kufaka isendlalelo sephunga elimangalisayo “lekhowe” (菌香, jūn xiāng) nobushelelezi obuyisipesheli.

Ngenxa yokucindezelwa okuqinile kanye nezinto ezingavuthiwe ezimahhadla, leli tiye lembula kancane, ngakho-ke indlela yesintu akukhona ukuthululwa, kodwa ukuphekwa (煮, zhǔ): ucezu olugqekeziwe luyabiliswa. Ngokwesiko lasemathafeni, liphekwa nobisi nosawoti, kuvele isiphuzo esisuthisayo samanomade. Enkomishini, ukumnika isikhathi eside emazingeni okushisa aphezulu nokuthululeka kaningana kuyafaneleka — amagramu amancane awasebenzi lapha.

Umlando namasiko

I-Yangloudong kukhulunywa ngayo njengendawo yetiye kusukela kudala, kodwa ukukhula kwangempela kwetiye elicindezelwe kwenzeka ngezikhathi zeMing neQing, lapho kwakheka khona ukuhweba okuzinzile nezizwe zasenyakatho. Ngekhulu le-19, isifunda saba ngenye yezindawo ezibalulekile kwaleyo “Ndlela Enkulu Yetiye” esivele ishiwo: ngeHankou, isitini esiluhlaza sasihanjiswa ngezinqola nemikhumbi siya ezimakethe zaseRussia. Kukhona isithombe esaziwayo esihambisana nalokhu kuthunyelwa — isitini esinohlamvu lwesiShayina 川 (chuān, “umfudlana”), umklamo odumile “wemigqa emithathu” ohlangothini olungaphambili lwezitini eziningi zaseHubei.

Kanjaloke isisekelo esiluhlaza esidala saba yibhuloho lamasiko: itiye elimahhadla, elingenakubhadla leningizimu yeHubei londla futhi lafudumeza izizwe, ezazingenako iqabunga eliluhlaza elisha, futhi amakhulu eminyaka lahlala liwuhlobo lwemali ekuhwebeni ngasemngceleni.

Indlela yokuhlukanisa

• Kumatiye aluhlaza amancane — i-老青茶 yenziwa ngehlumela elivuthiwe, elinamaqabunga amaningi, elimahhadla, futhi impela yenziwa nge-渥堆; leli itiye elimnyama, hhayi eliluhlaza, ngaphandle kwegama elithi “luhlaza” egameni (libhekisela ohlotsheni lokuqala lokulungiswa kwezinto ezingavuthiwe, hhayi esigabeni sokugcina).
• Kusuka ku-shu puer (普洱熟) — womabili enza ukubola okumanzi, kodwa i-puer yenziwa nge-大叶种 (dàyèzhǒng) enkulu yase-Yunnan bese icindezelwa ibe amaqebelengwane ne-tocha; isitini saseHubei — nge-landrace yaseningizimu yeHubei, singunxande, sinokuhlukaniswa ngo-面茶 no-里茶 futhi ngokuvamile sibhalwe uhlamvu 川.
• Kusuka ku-茯砖 (fú zhuān) wase-Anhua naseShaanxi — kukhona ukuhlobana emugqeni wokwenza i-发花/金花, kodwa i-fuzhuan ichazwa ngempela “imbali esagolide” eyisibopho, kanti esitini eliluhlaza laseHubei elijwayelekile, i-金花 iyisici esingaba khona kodwa hhayi okuyisibopho.
• Ngokwesimo kanye nokubhalwe — isitini esingunxande esiqinile esinemigqa ewumfuziselo, isakhiwo esinezendlalelo lapho sikhashulwa (isendlalelo “sobuso” esincane kanye naphakathi okumahhadla) — yizimpawu zesici sokucindezela kweHubei.

Isisekelo esiluhlaza esidala — yisimo esingandile lapho “ubumahhadla” bezinto ezingavuthiwe buphakanyiswe baba wuhlelo: yibo kanye ubunikeze itiye elimnyama laseHubei ukukhuthazela kwalo, indlela ekude, nokuphila okude lapho ligcinwe sivuthiwe.