lā lā shān wū lóng

I-Lalashan Wulong iwulong yase-Thaiwani ephakeme (高山茶, gāoshān chá), etshalwa emithambekeni yentaba i-Lalashan (拉拉山, Lālāshān) enyakatho yesiqhingi sase-Thaiwani. Ingena eqoqweni lama-wulong avutshelwe kancane ohlobo olusontekile “oluyimbulunga”, oluphawuleka ngephunga elisha lezimbali, ubumnandi obuminyene kanye “nenothi yasezintabeni eziphakeme” ecacile. Intaba yaziwa hhayi ngetiye kuphela kodwa nangemisedari emikhulu engavamile kanye namapentshisi adumile, ngakho-ke igama layo lihlotshaniswa ngokuqinile nesithombe semvelo yasezintabeni ehlanzekile nepholile. Phakathi kwama-wulong asezintabeni eziphakeme zase-Thaiwani, i-Lalashan ithatha indawo yesitayela sesifunda esisezingeni — esingakagqashukwa kangako kune-Lishan (梨山, Líshān) noma i-Alishan (阿里山, Ālǐshān), kodwa esaziswa ngabanolwazi ngenxa yobumsulwa nokuphila kokunambitheka kwayo.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

Uhlobo: i-wulong (烏龍茶 / 乌龙茶, wūlóng chá), izinga lokuvutshelwa elibuthakathaka, elisontekwe laba yizinhlamvu eziwugqinsi eziyindilinga.
Iqembu elincane: itiye lasezintabeni eziphakeme (高山茶, gāoshān chá); i-wulong yase-Thaiwani eyimbulunga (台灣烏龍, Táiwān wūlóng).
Imvelaphi: intaba i-Lalashan, isifunda i-Fuxing (復興區, Fùxīng qū), idolobha i-Taoyuan (桃園市, Táoyuán shì), i-Thaiwani.
Uhlobo lwesihlahla oluyinhloko: i-Qingxin Wulong (青心烏龍, Qīngxīn Wūlóng).
Ukuphakama kwamasimu: cishe amamitha ayi-1400–1900 ngaphezu kogu lolwandle.

I-Lalashan ingeyeqembu lasenyakatho lezifunda zamatiiye asezintabeni eziphakeme zase-Thaiwani, ezitholakala ezintabeni zase-Fuxing eduze komngcele wesifunda i-Yilan (宜蘭縣, Yílán xiàn). Lena ngenye yezindawo ezisenyakatho kakhulu lapho kwakheka khona izimo ze-wulong yangempela yasezintabeni eziphakeme, okuyenza yehluke ezindaweni eziseningizimu kakhulu nezigqashukile zesiqhingi.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

Abantu bomdabu: izindawo zase-Lalashan ngokomlando zihlala abantu bakwa-Atayal (泰雅族, Tàiyǎzú), futhi igama lendawo ngokwalo livela olimini lwabo.
Igama lesibili: ngeminyaka yawo-1970, intaba yanikezwa ngokusemthethweni igama lesiShayina elithi Daguan Shan (達觀山, Dáguānshān), nokho igama lokuqala elithi Lalashan lahlala lisetshenziswa kabanzi nasemalebula.

Ukutshalwa kwetiiye ezintabeni eziphakeme e-Thaiwani njengento ezimele kwakheka engxenyeni yesibili yekhulu lama-20, lapho abakhiqizi beqala ukusebenzisa imithambeka ephakeme kakhulu befuna izinto ezingavuthiwe ezinomlingiswa okhethekile “wasezintabeni”. I-Lalashan isikhathi eside yaziwa ngokuyinhloko ngesiqiwu sezihlahla ezinkulu kanye nezivande zamapentshisi, futhi ukukhiqizwa kwe-wulong kwezimboni lapha kwakheka kamuva kunasezindaweni zakudala ezisezintabeni eziphakeme eziphakathi nesiqhingi.

Namuhla, i-Lalashan Wulong ibonwa njengetiye lasezintabeni eziphakeme “elisendaweni ethile” lasenyakatho ye-Thaiwani. Ihlotshaniswa nesimo sezulu esipholile, inkungu kanye nodumo lwesifunda sasezintabeni esihlanzekile ngokwemvelo, kanye namasiko amatiye omncintiswano (比賽茶, bǐsàichá), lapho abalimi base-Thaiwani bancintisana khona ngekhono lokucubungula.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo kanye Nezinto Ezingavuthiwe:

Izinhlobo: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis — uhlobo lwesiShayina olunamaqabunga amancane esihlahla setiye.
Uhlobo lwesihlahla oluyinhloko: i-Qingxin Wulong (青心烏龍), eyaziwa nangokuthi i-Ruanzhi (軟枝烏龍, Ruǎnzhī Wūlóng). Inikeza iphunga elicole kakhulu nokunambitheka okuthambile, kodwa iyathanda, izwela ezifweni futhi ibonakala ngesivuno esiphansi ngokuqhathaniswa.
Izinhlobo ezengeziwe: i-Jinxuan (金萱, Jīnxuān, inombolo yokukhetha i-TTES #12) enamanothi aphawulekayo obisi nokhilimu; akuvamisile — i-Cuiyu (翠玉, Cuìyù, TTES #13).
Indinganiso yokuvuna: amahlumela aneqabunga eliphezulu elivulekile (開面, kāimiàn), ngokuvamile ithumba elinamaqabunga amabili noma amathathu.

Nge-wulong eyimbulunga, akuvunwa amahlumela amancane kakhulu, kodwa amahlumela avuthwe kancane: lapho ingaphezulu liyeka ukwelula ngenkuthalo, iqabunga liqongelela izinto ezanele zokwakha umzimba ominyene wokunambitheka. Ukuvunwa ngesandla kubaluleke kakhulu kunokuvunwa ngomshini, ikakhulukazi ezintweni ezingavuthiwe zomncintiswano.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokutshala:

Isimo sezulu: esipholile sasezintabeni, esinenkungu evamile nomswakama ophezulu.
Ukuhlukahluka kwansuku zonke: umehluko omkhulu phakathi kwamazinga okushisa asemini nawasebusuku ubambezela ukukhula kwamahlumela.
Inhlabathi: yasezintabeni, ekhipha amanzi kahle, enothe ngezinto eziphilayo.
Izinkathi zokuvuna: okubaluleke kakhulu ukuvuna kwasentwasahlobo (春茶, chūnchá) nokwasebusika (冬茶, dōngchá).

Ukuphakama kudlala indima ebalulekile. Ezindaweni eziphakeme kakhulu, iqabunga letiye likhula kancane, liqongelela ama-amino acid amaningi kanye nama-polyphenol amancane amaholo, okunikeza ubumnandi obuphawulekayo nokuthamba kanye nobumuncu obuncishisiwe. Inkungu ihlakaza ukukhanya kwelanga okuqondile, futhi ukuphola kwelula isikhathi sokukhula — iqoqo lalezi zici lakha lokho abantu base-Thaiwani abakubiza ngokuthi “inothi yasezintabeni eziphakeme” (高山韻, gāoshān yùn). Amaqoqo asentwasahlobo nawasebusika ngokuvamile anephunga elimnandi futhi amnandi kakhulu, kanti ukuvuna kwasehlobo kwehluleka ngobuncane babo.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

Ukwenza ubune (萎凋, wěidiāo): okokuqala elangeni, bese kuba sendlini, ukukhipha ingxenye yamanzi eqabungeni kanye nokuqala ukwakheka kwephunga.
Ukugubhuzela nokwenza ubune (做青 / 搖青, zuòqīng / yáoqīng): ukushintshanisa ukunyakazisa nokuphumula kweqabunga, lapho kwenzeka khona ukuvutshelwa okulawulwayo okungaphelele emaphethelweni.
Ukulungisa (殺青, shāqīng): ukufudumeza, okumisa i-oxidation futhi kuqinise iphunga.
Ukusonteka (揉捻, róuniǎn): ukucekelwa phansi kokuqala kwamangqamuzana nokunikeza iqabunga isimo.
Ukwakheka kube yizinhlamvu (團揉 / 布揉, tuánróu): ukusonteka okuphindaphindiwe kweqabunga ezikhwameni zendwangu ngokufudumeza okuphakathi, ngenxa yalokho kwakheka izigaxa eziwugqinsi eziyindilinga.
Ukomiswa (烘乾, hōnggān): ukwehlisa umswakama ufike ezingeni elizinzile.
Ukugazingwa (焙火, bèihuǒ): nge-Lalashan ngokuvamile kulula noma akukho, ukuze kugcinwe iphrofayili entsha, “eluhlaza” yezimbali.

Izinga lokuvutshelwa kwe-wulong yesimanje yasezintabeni eziphakeme aliphezulu — cishe ebangeni lokucutshungulwa okulula, okuyehlukanisa iphunga layo kuma-wulong ane-oxidized kakhulu futhi agazingiwe. Ukwakheka ezikhwameni zendwangu kuwumjikelezo onzima, onquma ukubukeka okwaziwayo kwetiye elilungile: “amaparele” aluhlaza okotshani aqinile, avulekayo lapho etshalwa abe ngamaqabunga aphelele.

6. Izimpawu Zokuzwa Ngezitho Zomzimba:

Iqabunga elomile: izinhlamvu eziwugqinsi eziyindilinga zombala oluhlaza okotshani ogcwele, ngokuvamile ezinezicucu zesiqu.
Iphunga: elisha lezimbali, elinamathunzi otshani basemadlelweni, futhi ngezinye izikhathi amathoni obisi nokhilimu (ikakhulukazi ohlotsheni lwe-Jinxuan).
Ukutshalwa: okusobala, kusuka kokuluhlaza okotshani okukhanyayo kuya kokusagolide okuphaphathekile.
Ukunambitheka: okuthambile, okumnandi, okuminyene, ngomuzwa wobusha “obupholile” kanye nobumuncu obuncane.
Ukunambitheka kwangemuva (回甘, huígān): okude, okumnandi, ngokubuya kokukhiqizwa kwamathe.
Iqabunga elibilisiwe: likhulu, liyalolonga, liphelele, linombala oluhlaza olinganayo onamaphethelo abubomvu kancane.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali:

Ama-Polyphenol (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): akhona, kodwa ingxenye yawo ilinganiselwe ngenxa ye-terroir yasezintabeni eziphakeme kanye nokuvutshelwa okubuthakathaka.
Ama-Catechin (兒茶素, érchásù): iqembu eliyinhloko lama-polyphenol, elinikeza ubunwebu kanye namandla e-antioxidant.
Ama-Amino acid (氨基酸, ānjīsuān): okuqukethwe okukhuphukile, ikakhulukazi i-L-theanine (茶氨酸, chá’ānsuān), enikeza ubumnandi nokugcwala kokunambitheka.
I-Caffeine (咖啡因, kāfēiyīn): itholakala ngesilinganiso esiphezulu.
Izinhlanganisela ezinuka kamnandi: isethi enothile yezinto eziguquguqukayo, ezakheka ngesikhathi sokwenziwa ubune kanye nokwenza ubune okulawulwayo futhi ezibhekelela isixha sezimbali.

Kuma-wulong asezintabeni eziphakeme, isilinganiso sezinto esigudluzelwe ekuthandeni ama-amino acid siyaphawuleka: ukukhula okunensayo endaweni ephakeme kwehlisa ukuqongelelwa kwama-polyphenol amaholo, ngenxa yalokho ukunambitheka kuba mnandi futhi kuthambe. Amanani aqondile ancike ohlotsheni lwesihlahla, ukuphakama, inkathi kanye nobuchwepheshe, ngakho-ke kufanele ukusho njengemikhuba kuphela.

8. Izakhiwo Eziwusizo:

Umsebenzi we-antioxidant: unikezwa ama-polyphenol nama-catechin.
Ukuqinisa umzimba: ukuphaphama okulingene nokugxilisa ingqondo ngenxa ye-caffeine ihlangene ne-theanine, ethambisa umsebenzi wayo.
Ubumnene esiswini: ukuvutshelwa okubuthakathaka nobumuncu obuphansi kwenza isiphuzo sikhululeke uma kuphuzwa ngokunengqondo.
Ukunikeza amanzi emzimbeni nokuqeda ukoma: ukutshalwa okusha, okulula kuqeda ukoma kahle.

Izici ezibaluliwe zinomlingiswa ojwayelekile futhi azithathi indawo yosizo lwezokwelapha. Abantu abazwela ku-caffeine, kanye phakathi nokukhulelwa kanye nezimo ezithile kufanele balondoloze ukulinganisela.

9. Ukwenza Itiye:

Izitsha: i-gaiwan (蓋碗, gàiwǎn) noma itiye elincane lase-Yixing (紫砂壺, zǐshā hú); i-porcelain nayo ilungile.
Amanzi: athambile, izinga lokushisa 90–100 °C (kwe-wulong yasezintabeni eziphakeme umkhawulo ophezulu uyathethelelwa).
Isilinganiso: cishe 5–7 g ku-100–120 ml.
Ukugeza: ukugqojozwa okufushane imizuzwana engu-5–10 kusiza izinhlamvu ukuthi zivuleke.
Ukuthelwa: ukutshalwa kokuqala imizuzwana engu-15–30 ngokwelulwa kancane kancane; kumelana nokwenziwa itiye okungu-6–8 noma ngaphezulu.

Itiye elisontekwe ngokuqinile lidinga isikhathi ukuze “livuleke”: ukuthelwa kokuqala kungase kukhanye, futhi ukugcwala kokunambitheka kufika ngokwesibili-ngokwesithathu. Amanzi ashisayo abalulekile ukuze kuvezwe iphunga lasezintabeni eziphakeme, kanti ukukhipha isikhathi eside ngokweqile kunganikeza ubunwebu. Ukwenza itiye okwenziwe lula ngevolumu enkulu (isitayela sikamkhulu) nakho kungenzeka, kodwa akuvezi kahle amaciko. Ngemuva kwesesheni kuyasiza ukuhlola iqabunga elibilisiwe — amaqabunga aphelele nanwebekayo akhombisa ukuvunwa nokucutshungulwa ngokucophelela.

10. Ukugcinwa:

Isiqukathi: ukupakishwa okuvaleka kahle okungabonisi noma ibhakede.
Izimo: ukuphola, ubumnyama, ukungabikho kwephunga langaphandle nomswakama.
Ubusha: i-wulong yasezintabeni eziphakeme evutshelwe kancane ivuleka kahle kakhulu phakathi nonyaka wokuqala-emibili ngemuva kokukhiqizwa.
Isiqandisi: kungenzeka ukugcinwa isikhathi eside ekupakisheni okuvalwe nge-vacuum ezingeni lokushisa eliphansi, kodwa iphakethe elikhishiwe kufanele lifudunyezwe lifike ezingeni lokushisa legumbi ngaphambi kokuvulwa, ukugwema ukujiya komswakama.

I-wulong “eluhlaza” engagazingiwe izwela kakhulu emswakameni, ekukhanyeni nasemaphungeni, ngakho-ke akufanele igcinwe eduze kwezinongo, ikhofi namakha. Uma iphunga liba buthuntu ngokuphawulekayo, itiye elinjalo lingomiswa kancane noma ligazingwe, nokho lokhu kuguqula iphrofayili yasekuqaleni entsha.

11. Intengo kanye Nemikhuhlane:

Isigaba sentengo: i-wulong yangempela yasezintabeni eziphakeme zase-Thaiwani ingeyamatiiye abizayo; amaqoqo omncintiswano nawasentwasahlobo-asebusika abiza kakhulu kunala ajwayelekile.
Imikhuhlane evamile: itiye elivela eVietnam nakwezinye izifunda ngaphansi kwegama le-Thaiwani yasezintabeni eziphakeme; izinto ezingavuthiwe ezivela ezindaweni eziphansi ezithengiswa ngokuthi “高山”; izingxube zamaqabunga asezintabeni eziphakeme nawasezindaweni eziphansi.
Ukungacaci kwegama: igama elithi “高山” alinakho ukuvikelwa okungokomthetho okuqinile futhi ngezinye izikhathi lisetshenziselwa ukumaketha.

Ukuhlukanisa i-Lalashan esezingeni kusizwa yiqoqo lezimpawu: iphunga lezimbali elihlanzekile ngaphandle “kokuba isicaba”, umzimba omnandi ominyene, ukunambitheka kwangemuva okude nokubuya kobumnandi kanye “nenothi yasezintabeni eziphakeme” ephilayo. Okufanele kusoleke ukushibha ngokweqile okunegama elikhulu, iphunga elibuthuntu noma “elinothuli”, ukulahlekelwa ukunambitheka ngokushesha ngemuva kokuthelwa kabili noma kathathu kanye neqabunga elibilisiwe elichotshoziwe, elingalingani. Kuthembeke kakhulu ukuthenga itiye kubathengisi abahloliwe, ukunaka imininingwane ngemvelaphi kanye nenkathi, futhi uma kungenzeka ukunambitha ngaphambi kokuthenga.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

Izihlahla ezinkulu: i-Lalashan idume ngesiqiwu semisedari emikhulu yamakhulu eminyaka, kuhlanganise nomkhombe obomvu wase-Thaiwani (紅檜, hónghuì), okuhlonishwa ngokuthi “izihlahla ezingcwele” (神木, shénmù).
Amapentshisi: imithambeka yase-Lalashan idume ngamapentshisi anamanzi (水蜜桃, shuǐmìtáo), futhi ngenkathi yawo intaba iba yindawo yokuvakasha “yamapentshisi”.
Igama elivela olimini lwesi-Atayal: igama lendawo elithi Lalashan — liyifa labantu bomdabu bakwa-Atayal, hhayi lolimi lwesiShayina.
I-terroir yasezintabeni eziphakeme yasenyakatho: lesi ngesinye sezifunda ezimbalwa ezisenyakatho ye-Thaiwani, lapho ukuphakama nesimo sezulu kuvumela ukuthola i-wulong yasezintabeni eziphakeme ephelele.

Ekuphetheni:

I-Lalashan Wulong — imelela ngokugqamile ukutshalwa kwetiiye lasezintabeni eziphakeme zase-Thaiwani, lapho isimo sezulu esipholile, inkungu kanye nokuhlukahluka okukhulu kwamazinga okushisa kwansuku zonke kwakha i-wulong ethambile, emnandi nenephunga elimnandi yokuvutshelwa okubuthakathaka. Ngemuva kobulula bangaphandle “bamaparele” aluhlaza aqinile kunomsebenzi onzima wezandla — kusukela ekuvunweni ngokucophelela kwamahlumela avuthiwe kuya ekwakhiweni okuphindaphindiwe kweqabunga ezikhwameni zendwangu.

Kumthandi wamatiye, leli tiye lithakazelisa njengenye indlela ethule kumikhiqizo edumile yasezintabeni eziphakeme yesiqhingi: linikeza “inothi yasezintabeni eziphakeme” eyaziwayo, ukunambitheka kwangemuva okumnandi okude kanye nokuxhumana nendawo eyingqayizivele — intaba yemisedari engavamile kanye nezivande zamapentshisi. Ekuthengeni, kunengqondo ukugxila ekubeni selubala kwemvelaphi kanye nokunambitha kwakho siqu, futhi ekwenzeni itiye — emanzini ashisayo, ekuthelweni okufushane kanye nasekunakekeleni ukuthi itiye livuleka kanjani kusukela ekutshalweni kuya ekutshalweni.

the teas described here are available from teamotea