kǔdīng chá

I-Kuding (苦丁茶, kǔdīng chá) iyindawo emuncu yamaqabunga ezitshalo ezihlala ziluhlaza, okuthi eShayina iphekwe futhi iphuzwe ngendlela yetiye, kodwa akuyona itiye ngomqondo wezitshalo. Ayinawo iqabunga lesihlahla setiye (Camellia sinensis) esakhiweni sayo, ngakho-ke ohlelweni lwaseShayina lweziphuzo, i-kuding ibhekiswa “kumatiye ashintshayo” (代用茶, dàiyòng chá) — izindawo zezitshalo eziphuzwa esikhundleni setiye. Igama ngokwalo lakhiwa izinhlamvu 苦 (kǔ) “omuncu” kanye no-丁 (dīng) “isipikili”: ubumuncu obukhali kanye nesimo esijwayelekile seqabunga eligoqwe “njengesipikili” kwanikeza umkhiqizo igama lawo. Ngaphansi kwegama elilodwa “kuding” kufihlwe izitshalo ezimbili ezihluke ngokuphelele ezivela emindenini ehlukene yezitshalo — i-holly enamaqabunga amakhulu kanye ne-privet enamacembe amancane, — futhi yilokhu kuphindeka okwenza lesi sikhundla sibe ngesinye sezidideke kakhulu emakethe ye-herbal. I-Kuding isakazeke eningizimu naseningizimu-ntshonalanga yeShayina, lapho sekungamakhulu eminyaka yaziswa njengesiphuzo “esipholisayo” sansuku zonke sesizini esishisayo futhi njengendlela emuncu esikhundleni setiye.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa Nomsuka:

• Uhlobo: indawo yesitshalo, indawo esikhundleni setiye (代用茶, dàiyòng chá); akulona itiye elivela ku-Camellia sinensis.
• Isigaba: izindawo zezitshalo nezimbali ezomile (代用茶, dàiyòng chá) — ngaphandle kwesigaba sezitshalo setiye esivela ku-Camellia sinensis
• Isici esiyinhloko: igama elilodwa lokuhweba — izinto ezimbili ezihlukene zezitshalo.

Kufanele kushiwo ngokuqondile: akukho qabunga lesihlahla setiye ku-kuding. Itiye langempela lihlobene nayo kuphela ngendlela yokucubungula nokupheka, kanye nendima yesiko yesiphuzo. Ekuhlukanisweni kwezimpahla zaseShayina, imikhiqizo enjalo idlula njenge-代用茶 (dàiyòng chá) noma njengesiphuzo sesitshalo, hhayi njengetiye (茶, chá) ngomqondo oqinile.

Ngaphansi kwegama “kuding” emakethe kuhlala ndawonye izinto ezimbili ezihluke ngokuyisisekelo:

• I-Kuding enamacembe amakhulu (大叶苦丁, dàyè kǔdīng): ama-holly omndeni wakwa-Holly (Aquifoliaceae). Emithonjeni yezincwadi, kuvame ukushiwo i-Ilex latifolia Thunb. kanye ne-Ilex kudingcha C.J. Tseng. Ukubekwa kwezitshalo lapha akukaqiniseki ngokuphelele: ngaphansi kwempahla yokuhweba kungafihlwa izinhlobo ezimbalwa eziseduze ze-holly, futhi ukuzimela kwe-Ilex kudingcha njengohlobo kuxoxwa ngochwepheshe. Izifunda — i-Hainan, i-Guangxi, i-Guangdong, i-Sichuan, i-Yunnan. Iqabunga likhulu, ligoqwe laba “yisipikili” esiqinile noma umoya ovunguzayo.
• I-Kuding enamacembe amancane (小叶苦丁, xiǎoyè kǔdīng): i-privet Ligustrum robustum yomndeni wakwa-Olive (Oleaceae) — okusho ukuthi iyisihlobo se-lilac ne-olive, hhayi neze i-holly. Izifunda — i-Guizhou ne-Sichuan. Iqabunga lincane, lincanyana, ngaphandle liseduze nempahla evamile evuthulukile enamaqabunga.

Lapha kufanele kukhulunywe ngomkhuba we-同名異物 (tóng míng yì wù) — “igama elilodwa, izinto ezahlukene”, okuvamile ekuqanjweni kwamagama ezitshalo zaseShayina. I-Kuding ngokwayo iyisibonelo esinjalo. Ukufana okuthakazelayo — indawo ye-buckwheat 苦荞茶 (kǔqiáo chá): kuleli gama, uhlamvu 苦 alukhomba ukunambitheka okumuncu kwesiphuzo, kodwa lungenela egameni lesitshalo 苦荞 (kǔqiáo, i-buckwheat yaseTatari, Fagopyrum tataricum), ephikisana ne-buckwheat “emnandi” 甜荞 (tiánqiáo). Okusho ukuthi egameni elithi “kuding” i-苦 ichaza ukunambitheka, kanti egameni elithi “kuqiao” — uhlobo lwesitshalo; isiphuzo se-buckwheat ngokwaso sithambile futhi sinamantongomane, hhayi okumuncu.

2. Umlando Nokubaluleka Kwesiko:

• Indawo yesiko: eningizimu naseningizimu-ntshonalanga yeShayina.
• Indima: isiphuzo “esipholisayo” sasekhaya, ingxenye yesiko lezindawo ze-herbal.

I-Kuding inomlando omude wokusetshenziswa njengesiphuzo sabantu ezifundazweni eziseningizimu. Ihleleke kahle esikweni “lemijuxuzo epholisayo” (凉茶, liángchá), ejwayelekile e-Guangdong, e-Guangxi, e-Hainan, e-Hong Kong nase-Macau, lapho iziphuzo ze-herbal ezimuncu ziphuzelwa “ukususa ukushisa” esimweni sezulu esifudumele sase-subtropical. I-kuding enamaqabunga amakhulu ye-holly ihlobene kakhulu ne-Hainan naseningizimu-ntshonalanga, i-privet enamacembe amancane — nezifunda zezintaba zase-Guizhou.

Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, kwavela amagama okuhweba ezifunda. I-kuding enamacembe amancane yase-Guizhou ivame ukutholakala ngaphansi kwegama elithi 青山绿水 (qīngshān lǜshuǐ, “izintaba eziluhlaza namanzi ahlanzekile”), okugcizelela umsuka emahlathini asezintabeni. “Izipikili” ezinamaqabunga amakhulu zaziswa ngenxa yokubukeka okubonakalayo kwempahla eyomile, ekhula kahle ezitsheni zengilazi.

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo Nempahla:

• Isitshalo samaqabunga amakhulu: izihlahla ezihlala ziluhlaza nezihlahla zohlobo lwe-holly (Ilex), ezinamaqabunga amakhulu aqinile anesikhumba.
• Isitshalo samacembe amancane: i-privet Ligustrum robustum, isihlahla noma isihlahla esincane esinamaqabunga amancane amancanyana.

Umehluko wempahla ubonakala ngamehlo futhi uyisiqondiso esiyinhloko lapho uthenga:

• Impahla ye-kuding enamacembe amakhulu: amaqabunga ahlukene, agoqwe abe “yisipikili” esiqinile eside noma umoya ovunguzayo ubude bungamasentimitha amaningana, aluhlaza okotshani obumnyama, kuya koluhlaza sasibanzi-mnyama, aqinile futhi anzima. “Isipikili” esisodwa esinjalo — isilinganiso esigcwele kakade.
• Impahla ye-kuding enamacembe amancane: amaqabunga amancane agoqiwe, amancanyana, alula, ngaphandle afana neqabunga elivuthulukile eliluhlaza elijwayelekile; aphekwa ngokuvuthuluka, hhayi ngeqabunga ngalinye.

4. I-Terroir Nezici Zokulinywa:

• Enaqabunga amakhulu: i-Hainan, i-Guangxi, i-Guangdong, i-Sichuan, i-Yunnan — izintaba eziphansi ze-subtropical nezishisayo.
• Enaqabunga amancane: i-Guizhou, i-Sichuan — izifunda zezintaba ezinamahlathi.

Zombili izitshalo zihlanganiswe nesimo sezulu esifudumele nesinomswakama eseningizimu yeShayina, zikhula ezintabeni eziphansi nasemahlathini asezintabeni endaweni ephakeme ngokwanele, lapho umswakama nokukhanya okuhlakazekile kusiza ekuqoqweni kwezinto ezisebenzayo. Ama-holly e-kuding enamaqabunga amakhulu avame ukulinywa emasimini, kanti ukuqoqwa kwe-privet enamacembe amancane ngokomlando kuhlobene nezindawo ezikhula ngokwemvelo nezitshaliwe ezingxenyeni zezintaba zase-Guizhou.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

• Umgomo: ukucubungula iqabunga ngohlelo “oluhlaza” ngaphandle kokuvutshelwa.
• Umehluko: ubuchwepheshe buseduze nobetiye ngezigaba, kodwa busetshenziswa eqabungeni elingelona ele-tiye.

Ukulandelana okuvamile kuhlanganisa ukuqoqwa kweqabunga, ukulungisa okuluhlaza (杀青, shāqīng) — ukucubungulwa kokushisa, okumisa ama-enzyme oxidizing, bese kuba ukugoqa nokunikeza isimo, futhi ekugcineni, ukomisa. Nge-kuding enamaqabunga amakhulu, isigaba esiyinhloko nesinzima kakhulu — ukugoqa ngesandla noma ngomshini amaqabunga amakhulu abe “yizipikili” eziqinile nemimoya evunguzayo, okuyinto umkhiqizo owathola ngayo isimo sawo esaziwayo. I-kuding enamacembe amancane igoqwa ngokuvuthuluka, njengeqabunga elivamile. Ezimweni eziningi, i-kuding ayivutshiwe, ngakho-ke ngokomqondo wokucubungula iseduze kakhulu netiye eliluhlaza, kuyilapho isalokhu ingumkhiqizo ohluke ngokuphelele ngokwezitshalo.

6. Izici Zomzwelo:

• Indawo: kusuka kokuphuzi okukhanyayo kuya kokuphuzi okuluhlaza sasibhakabhaka, obala.
• Ukunambitheka: ubumuncu obuvezwayo, ngezinye izikhathi obunamandla ekuqaleni, obulandelwa ukunambitheka okumnandi emva kwalokho (回甘, huígān).
• Iphunga: utshani-okwesitshalo, kunothi olumuncu.

I-kuding enamaqabunga amakhulu ye-holly ngokuvamile inika ubumuncu obuqinile nobuhlala isikhathi eside, i-privet enamacembe amancane — ithambe futhi inotshani. Ukungafani phakathi kobumuncu bokuqala obunamandla kanye “nokubuya kobumnandi” okulandelayo kubhekwa njengenzuzo eyinhloko yesiphuzo futhi kuhlukanisa impahla enhle kweyisicaba futhi emuncu nje.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali:

• I-Caffeine: ayikho kuzo zombili izinhlobo ze-kuding — umehluko obalulekile etiyeni langempela.
• Enaqabunga amakhulu (i-holly): ama-triterpene saponins (ezincwadini — ama-kudinosides), i-ursolic acid, ama-polyphenol, i-chlorogenic acid, ama-flavonoid.
• Enaqabunga amancane (i-privet): ama-phenylethanoid glycosides, i-oleanolic acid, ama-flavonoid (kuhlanganisa ne-luteolin).

Ubumuncu be-kuding enamaqabunga amakhulu buhlotshaniswa ngokuyinhloko nama-triterpene saponins, benamaqabunga amancane — nama-phenylethanoid kanye ne-secoiridoid compounds. Ukungabikho kwe-caffeine kubalulekile: ngokungafani netiye, i-kuding ayiwaqukethe ama-alkaloid avusayo, okunquma ukusetshenziswa kwayo kwansuku zonke, kanye nemibono ngayo.

8. Izakhiwo Eziwusizo:

• Okuvame ukucatshangwa esikweni lasekhaya: isiphuzo semvelo “epholisayo” “sokususa ukushisa” (清热, qīngrè) kanye “nokwehlisa umlilo” (降火, jiàng huǒ), ukukhululeka emva kokudla okunamafutha nokuqabula umoya.
• Okufundwa yisayensi: umsebenzi we-antioxidant wama-polyphenol, izici zama-triterpene saponins kanye nama-phenylethanoid glycosides — isihloko saselabhorethri nocwaningo lokuqala.

Kudingeka ukuphawula okuqondile: i-kuding ingumkhiqizo wokudla, hhayi umuthi. Izithembiso zezempilo, ezihambisana nokuhweba okuthengiswayo, zidlulela ngale kwendatshana ye-encyclopedia futhi azikwazi ukubhekwa njengemiphumela efakazelwe. Ezixwayisweni ezaziwayo jikelele, sisho ngokungathathi hlangothi: isiphuzo sibumuncu kakhulu futhi esikweni laseShayina sibhekwa “njengomoya obandayo”, ngakho-ke kunconywa ukuba siphuze ngokulinganisela; ukucophelela okuhlukile isiko likweluleka kubantu “abanesisu esibuthakathaka, esibandayo”, ngesikhathi sokukhulelwa, kanye nalabo abaphuza imithi. Imithamo ethile nezeluleko zezokwelapha azinikezwa lapha.

9. Ukupheka:

• Isitsha: ingilazi yengilazi noma iketela letiye, i-gaiwan; ingilazi ivumela ukubuka ukwembuleka “kwezipikili”.
• Isilinganiso: sincane kakhulu. Enamaqabunga amakhulu — “isipikili” esisodwa noma ezimbili ku-250–300 ml. Enamaqabunga amancane — cishe ama-2–3 g ngalolo bungako obufanayo.
• Izinga lokushisa: 90–100 °C.
• Isikhathi: ukuchitheka kokuqala kufushane, 20–40 amasekhondi; ngemva kwalokho isikhathi siyenyuswa.
• Ukuchitheka: okuphindaphindekayo — “isipikili” esisodwa se-kuding enamaqabunga amakhulu simelana nokuphekwa okuningana.
• Ukuphakelwa okubandayo: kufanelekile; ehlobo, i-kuding ithelwa ngamanzi ashisayo, iyapholiswa bese iphuzwa ipholile.

Umthetho oyinhloko — ukuthatha impahla eluhlaza encane kakhulu. I-Kuding ibumuncu kangangokuba ukweqisa umthamo kwenza indawo icishe ingaphuzeki. Ukuze kuthanjiswe ubumuncu, i-kuding ivame ukuphekwa exubene ne-chrysanthemum (菊花, júhuā), kanti esiphuzweni esesiphekiwe ngezinye izikhathi kufakwa uju. Ukuqala kuhle “ngesipikili” esisodwa bese ulungisa ukuqina ngokokuthanda.

10. Ukugcinwa:

• Izimo: indawo eyomile, epholile, emnyama, ukupakishwa okuvaleke ngangokuphelele.
• Ukuvikelwa: emswakameni, emaphungeni angaphandle, ekukhanyeni okuqondile.

I-Kuding iyimpahla eyomile engavutshiwe, futhi, ngokungafani ne-puer, ayihloselwe ukuvuthwa isikhathi eside kanye “nokuthuthuka ngeminyaka”. Igcinwa njengotshani obomile obuvamile futhi kuhloswe ukuyisebenzisa ngesikhathi esifanele, kuvinjelwe ukuncengwa nokulahleka kwephunga. Isitsha esivalwe ngokuqinile nokungabikho komakhelwane nemikhiqizo enephunga elinamandla — kuyisisekelo sokulondolozeka.

11. Intengo Nokomgunyathi:

• Inkomba yentengo yokuhweba: cishe ama-82 ¥/kg njengenani lomthengisi; intengo yokuthengisa incike kakhulu ohlotsheni, emkhiqizweni nasezifundeni.
• Indlela impahla yangempela ebukeka ngayo: enamaqabunga amakhulu — “izipikili” ezimnyama ezinzima nemimoya evunguzayo yosayizi ofanayo; enamaqabunga amancane — amaqabunga amancane amancanyana agoqiwe ngaphandle kodoti nezinhlanga eziwile.

“Ukudideka” okuyinhloko kwalesi sikhundla — akuyona inkohliso eqondile kangako, kodwa ukungaqondakali kwegama. Umthengi uvamise ukungazi ukuthi ngempela yini ayithathayo: i-kuding enamaqabunga amakhulu ye-holly noma i-privet enamaqabunga amancane — lezi izitshalo ezimbili ezihlukene ngentengo, ukunambitheka nokwakheka, nakuba zithengiswa ngaphansi kwegama elilodwa. Ngakho-ke lapho uthenga kuhle ukucacisa uhlobo (大叶 kuqhathaniswa ne-小叶), kanye negama lesiLatini lempahla. Kuyenzeka ukuxutshwa kwempahla yezinhlobo ezihlukene, ukufakwa kwamaqabunga amahhashi kanye neziqu, kanye nokushintshwa kolunye uhlobo lwe-holly noma i-privet ngenye, eshibhile. Izinkomba yizo ukufana kwesimo nosayizi, ukuhlanzeka kwempahla kanye — ekuphekweni kokuhlola — “indlela efanele” yokunambitheka kusuka ebumuncwini obunamandla kuya ekunambithekeni okumnandi emva kwalokho.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

• Igama-”isipikili”: isimo seqabunga elikhulu eligoqiwe ngokwezwi nezwi sikhumbuza isipikili, okuqiniswe uhlamvu 丁 (dīng).
• Imindeni emibili ngaphansi kwegama elilodwa: i-Aquifoliaceae (i-holly) ne-Oleaceae (i-privet) — izitshalo, ezingahlobene eduze, kodwa ezinikezwe igama elilodwa lokuhweba.
• Ngaphandle kwe-caffeine: ukungabikho kwama-alkaloid avusayo kuvumela ukuphuza i-kuding kusihlwa, okuyinto etiyeni langempela engavamile kakhulu.
• Isicupho sezilimi: ku-苦丁茶 (kǔdīng chá) uhlamvu 苦 — lumayelana nokunambitheka, kanti ku-苦荞茶 (kǔqiáo chá) uhlamvu olufanayo lungenela egameni lesitshalo (i-buckwheat yaseTatari), futhi isiphuzo ngokwaso asimuncu ngaleyo ndlela.

Ekuphetheni:

I-Kuding — isibonelo esikhanyayo sendlela, lapho ngaphansi kwesibonakaliso “setiye” esijwayelekile kuphila uhlobo oluzimele lwezindawo zezitshalo. Akulona itiye futhi akulona itiye lokushintsha, kodwa i-代用茶 (dàiyòng chá) eqotho enesiko layo lamakhulu eminyaka, i-terroir yayo eningizimu yeShayina kanye nobuhle bayo obaziwayo bokunambitheka okumuncu nobumnandi obubuyayo. Ukuqonda ukuthi ngaphansi kwegama elilodwa kukhona izitshalo ezimbili ezihlukene — i-holly enamaqabunga amakhulu ne-privet enamaqabunga amancane, — kuguqula ukuthengwa kwe-kuding kusuka e-lottery kube ukukhetha okuqaphelayo.

Kufanele iphathwe ngenhlonipho yohlobo nangokuhluzeka kwezithembiso: isiphuzo esimuncu “esipholisayo” sithatha indawo yaso esemthethweni esikweni lasekhaya laseShayina, kodwa sihlala singumkhiqizo wokudla, hhayi owezokwelapha. Iphekwe ngokonga nangokuqonda ukuthi yini ngempela ethelwe enkomishini, i-kuding iyazembula njengendawo ezwakalayo futhi engenakufaniswa.

the teas described here are available from teamotea