jú pǔ · jú hóng · jú bái

橘普 (jú pǔ), 橘红 (jú hóng) kanye 橘白 (jú bái) kuwumndeni wamatiye ahlanganisiwe, lapho ikhasi lesithelo esomile somndeni we-citrus lisebenza kokubili njengesitsha nengxenye enephunga elimnandi, kanti ngaphakathi kufakwa iqabunga letiye lezinhlobo ezintathu ezahlukene: elimnyama (i-puerh), elibomvu (hóngchá) nelimhlophe (báichá). Lolu wuhlobo olusha ngokwesimo, kodwa olugxile emasikweni aseNingizimu ye-China wamakhemisi, namuhla ngokuvamile ahlanganiswa ngaphansi kwesambulela esisodwa esivamile se-柑普茶 / 陈皮茶.

Inothi lomhleli: Umthombo mbhalo omayelana nalesi sihloko awuvunyelwe, ngakho-ke i-athikili yakhelwe olwazini olwamukelekayo emkhakheni; amaphuzu angabangwayo aphawulwe ngokuhlukile.

Amatemu: yini emele ihhayiroglifu

Amagama afundeka njengefomula elithi “isithelo se-citrus + itiye eliyisisekelo”:

橘普 (jú pǔ) — isithelo se-citrus ne-puerh (普洱);
橘红 (jú hóng) — isithelo se-citrus netiye elibomvu (红茶);
橘白 (jú bái) — isithelo se-citrus netiye elimhlophe (白茶).

Lapha kubalulekile ukuhlukanisa izendlalelo ezimbili zezincazelo. Ku-pharmacopoeia yendabuko i-橘红 ne-橘白 zisho izingqimba zekhasi lesithelo uqobo: i-橘红 isendlalelo sangaphandle, esinombala (i-flavedo), i-橘白 isendlalelo sangaphakathi esimhlophe (i-albedo). Ngaphandle kwalokho, i-化橘红 (huà jú hóng) iyimpahla eluhlaza yokwelapha ehlukile ephuma ku-pummelo enoboya (Citrus grandis ‘Tomentosa’) yase-Huazhou, engahlobene netiye. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, kumongo wetiye i-橘红/橘白, njengomthetho jikelele, ifundeka ngokuqondile ngokuthi “itiye le-tangerine elibomvu/elimhlophe” — ngokufana nokuvamile okusunguliwe kwe-橘普. Lo mehluko kufanele ugcinwe engqondweni ukuze kungadideki imikhiqizo.

Kufanele futhi kuphawulwe umehluko phakathi kwe-橘 (jú, i-mandarin/tangerine, isithelo esincane) ne-柑 (gān, isithelo se-citrus sase-Canton esikhudlwana). Empeleni amatemu i-橘普 ne-柑普 avame ukusetshenziswa njengomqondofana, nakuba ngokuqinile i-柑普 ibhekise esithelweni esikhulu se-citrus sase-Xinhui.

Indawo yokutshala nezinto zokusetshenziswa zekhasi lesithelo

Umsuka walesi sigaba — yikhasi lesithelo. Izinto zokusetshenziswa eziyisibonelo kuthathwa njenge-新会陈皮 (Xīnhuì chénpí), ikhasi lesithelo se-citrus eligugile elivela esifundeni sase-Xinhui edolobheni lase-Jiangmen (isifundazwe sase-Guangdong). Lo mkhiqizo unesimo esivikelwe sokukhomba indawo yase-People’s Republic of China: indawo okuphuma kuyo imifula, inhlabathi yolwandle enamagagasi kanye nesimo sezulu esishisayo esinomswakama kwakha iphrofayili eyaziwayo yekhasi lesithelo — enothile, enamafutha, inengxenye ephezulu yamafutha abalulekile kanye nokujula okubabayo-kumnandi okuyisici.

Uhlobo olusetshenziswayo yi-茶枝柑 (cházhīgān), eyaziwa nangokuthi i-mandarin yase-Xinhui (Citrus reticulata ‘Chachi’). Ngokuyisisekelo, iphrofayili yekhasi lesithelo iyehluka ngokuya ngesigaba sokukhula kwesithelo:

小青柑 (xiǎo qīng gān) — isithelo esiluhlaza esincane esivunwa kusenesikhathi (cishe maphakathi nehlobo): ukugcwala okuphezulu kwezakhi eziguquguqukayo, ukusha okubukhali, ukubaba okugqamile;
二红柑 / 微红 (ukuvuna kwesigaba esiphakathi, ekwindla): ikhasi lesithelo liqala ukuphuzi-bomvu, ibhalansi yokusha nobumnandi;
大红柑 (dà hóng gān) — isithelo esibomvu esivuthwe ngokugcwele (ngasekupheleni kwekwindla — ekuqaleni kobusika): ikhasi lesithelo elithambile, elimnandi, elinephunga elimnandi eligcwele.

Yilezi zithelo ezisetshenziselwa ukwenza kokubili “i-mandarin encane eluhlaza” ejwayelekile ene-puerh, kanye namafomu akhudlwana ezithelo.

Itiye eliyisisekelo: “ukugxishwa” okuthathu okuhlukene

Umehluko phakathi kwe-橘普, 橘红 kanye ne-橘白 unqunywa yilokho okufakwe ngaphakathi kwekhasi lesithelo.

橘普. Indlela yakudala yalolu hlobo — i-puerh evuthiwe (熟普, shú pǔ), akuvamile ukuthi kube i-puerh eluhlaza eligugile (生普). Itiye elimnyama linesisekelo salo esinamhlabathi, esithambile, likwazi ukubekezelela isikhathi eside sokugcinwa futhi lihambisana nokubaba okunamafutha kwekhasi lesithelo.

橘红. Ngaphakathi kufakwa itiye elibomvu. Ukuhlelwa kwezinto zase-Guangdong kwenza kube wukukhetha okungokwemvelo amatiye abomvu endawo noma angomakhelwane; umphumela uba yinkomishi “enezithelo-noju” emnandi, enephunga eliphezulu le-citrus.

橘白. Ukugxishwa okumhlophe kwetiye, akuvamile ukuthi kube okugugile kwe-寿眉 (shòuméi) noma i-白牡丹 (báimǔdān) yomdabu wase-Fujian. Lena inguqulo elula futhi “esobala” kakhulu: ukumnika okuncane, lapho i-citrus ingasibekeli ubumnandi obuthambile beqabunga elimhlophe.

(Izifunda eziqondile nezinhlobo zetiye eliyisisekelo ziyahlukahluka kumkhiqizi othile futhi ngokuvamile azifakwanga ezingeni elisebenzayo — lona ngumkhakha wamasu okuhweba, hhayi inkambiso yomkhakha.)

Ubuchwepheshe bokukhiqiza

Uhlelo olujwayelekile lwayo yomithathu imikhiqizo luyefana:

Ukukhethwa nokugezwa kwezithelo. I-citrus ihlukaniswa ngosayizi nangokuvuthwa, iyagezwa, iyekwe yome.
Ukuvulwa nokususwa kwenyama yesithelo. Engxenyeni engenhla yesithelo kusikwa “isivalo”, izicucu zikhishwa ngokucophelela, kugcinwe ubuqotho bekhasi lesithelo eliyisitsha.
Ukufakwa kwetiye (填茶). Ngaphakathi kugxishwa itiye eliyisisekelo elomile — i-puerh, elibomvu noma elimhlophe. Isivalo sibuyiselwa endaweni.
Ukomiswa. Lesi yisigaba esinqumayo. Kusetshenziswa ukomiswa kwezinga lokushisa eliphansi (烘焙, umoya ofudumele), noma ukomiswa ngelanga nomoya (生晒). Indlela yokomisa inomthelela omkhulu ephungeni lokugcina: ukomiswa ngelanga kuthandwa ngenxa yekhasi lesithelo “eliphilayo”, eliguqukayo, kanti ukomisa ngeziko kuthandwa ngenxa yokuqina nokwembulwa ngokushesha.

Izithelo esezilungile ziyabe sezigugiswa. Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ikhasi lesithelo netiye “kuhwebelana” ngezakhi: amafutha abalulekile e-citrus agcwalisa iqabunga, kanti itiye linciphisa ukuqina kwekhasi lesithelo elisencane. Kukholelwa ukuthi uma isikhathi eside sokugcinwa okuyikho, iphrofayili iba nzulu futhi ihleleke kangcono — ikakhulukazi inguqulo ene-puerh.

Amazinga kanye nokuhlukaniswa ngezigaba

Ikhasi lesithelo i-新会陈皮 lilawulwa njengomkhiqizo wokukhomba indawo, futhi kukhona izidingo zomkhakha zomdabu kanye nokuguga. Ngokuqondene netiye elihlanganisiwe eselilungile, izinga elilodwa likazwelonke eliqondile (GB/T) “le-puerh yesithelo se-citrus” njengesigaba esizimele asikwazanga ukuqinisekiswa ngaphakathi kwemininingwane etholakalayo — ngakho-ke izinombolo eziqondile namapharamitha akunikezwanga ngenhloso lapha. Empeleni umkhiqizo udayiswa ngaphansi komugqa we-puerh/itiye elimnyama, noma ngaphansi komugqa wekhasi lesithelo elicutshunguliwe, kuya ngokuthi umkhiqizi uthatha ini njengengxenye ebusayo.

Ukunambitheka nokwenziwa kwetiye

Iphrofayili yezinguqulo ezintathu ihlukile ngokufanele:

橘普 — icinene kakhulu futhi “ifudumeza”: isisekelo esinamhlabathi-nokhuni se-puerh evuthiwe, esongwe ngekhasi lesithelo se-citrus elibabayo-elimnandi, ukunambitheka okuhlala isikhathi eside nokunamafutha.
橘红 — kunambitheka okuju-noswidi, okuzungeleze ngokwengeziwe, kunephunga eliphezulu le-citrus elikhanyayo nobuncane bokuba namhlabathi.
橘白 — elula futhi esha kakhulu, ukumnika okusobala, ubumnandi obuncane beqabunga elimhlophe nokunambitheka okuncane kwe-citrus.

Umkhuba wokwenza itiye. Kulula kakhulu ukusebenza ngesithelo esincane (小青柑): sifakwa ku-gaiwan noma eketeleni siphelele, kwesinye isikhathi sibhobozwe noma kwephulwe ikhasi, bese kuthelwa amanzi abilayo (nge-puerh — cishe 95 — 100 °C; ngenguqulo emhlophe kuhle ukwehlisa kancane izinga lokushisa). Ukutheleka kokuqala okufushane kungathululwa ukuze “kuvuswe”. Bese kumiswa ngemijikelezo emifushane, kancane kancane kwandiswe isikhathi; inothi le-citrus livela kakhulu ekuthelekeni kokuqala, isisekelo setiye sembulwa ngokuqhubekayo. Izithelo ezinkulu ngokuvamile zihlukaniswa zibe izingxenye bese zikalwa njengesiqephu.

Umlando namasiko

Lolu hlobo lukhule emkhubeni wakudala wase-Guangdong wokuhlanganisa ikhasi le-mandarin eligugile netiye — e-Xinhui i-陈皮 yayithandwa amakhulu eminyaka njengegugu lokupheka nelamakhemisi, “indala, ibiza kakhulu”. Ukuchuma kwezohwebo kwamanje kwe-puerh yesithelo se-citrus kanye “nodadewabo” kungamashumi eminyaka amuva, lapho abakhiqizi baqala ukugxisha izithelo eziphelele ngetiye futhi bazidayise njengomkhiqizo osulungile; izinsuku eziqondile zokuvela okukhulu kwaleli fomethi sizishiya zingashiwongo ukuze sigweme amaphutha. Ngokwamasiko lamatiye ahlotshaniswa ngokuqinile neNingizimu ye-China, isiko letiye lase-Canton kanye nomqondo wokuguga njengenani elongezelekile.

Indlela yokuhlukanisa nokuthi yini okufanele ibhekwe

Umsuka wekhasi lesithelo. I-新会陈皮 yangempela inesimo esivikelwe; emakethe evamile kutholakala ikhasi lesithelo elivela kwezinye izifunda. Ikhasi langempela lase-Xinhui lihlukaniswa nephunga elimnandi eliminyene, elinezendlalelo eziningi kanye nokujula okubabayo-kumnandi okuyisici.
Isigaba sokuvuthwa. Isithelo esiluhlaza esincane (小青柑) — sisha futhi sibukhali; isithelo esikhulu esibomvu (大红柑) — sithambile futhi simnandi. Lokhu ukukhetha okuqaphelayo kwesitayela, hhayi inkomba yekhwalithi ngokwayo.
Indlela yokomisa. Ukomisa ngelanga (生晒) kanye nokomisa ngeziko (烘焙) kuleta ubunjalo obuhlukile; abadayisi abaqotho bayakusho lokhu.
Ukufanelana kwetiye eliyisisekelo negama. Ku-橘白 kufanele kube itiye elimhlophe ngempela, ku-橘红 — elibomvu; ukushintshwa kwezinto ezingavuthiwe eziyisisekelo kungumthombo ovamile wokudideka.
Ubuqotho besithelo nokuhlanzeka. Ikhasi lesithelo kufanele lingabi nesikhunta esinephunga elingaziwa (iphunga “elidala” eligugile — livamile, umswakama onuka isikhunta — cha), itiye elingaphakathi — libe lomile futhi lifane.

Le mikhiqizo emithathu kulula ukuyibona njengesu elilodwa — ikhasi lesithelo se-citrus njengesitsha nesinongo — elisetshenziswe ezisekelweni ezintathu ezahlukene zetiye. Ukukhetha phakathi kwe-橘普, 橘红 ne-橘白 empeleni, kuwukukhetha phakathi kokujula, ubumnandi, kanye nokukhanya.