Gulaocha

Gulaocha (古劳茶, gǔláochá) — itiye eliluhlaza elingokomlando nelidume kakhulu lase-Guangdong, elazalelwa endaweni yaseGulao (古劳镇) enkabeni yedolobha lase-Heshan (鹤山市) osebeni lomfula iXijiang (西江, “Umfula WaseNtshonalanga”), endaweni yomfula iZhujiang. Itiye okuthiwa ngalo: “Ngaphambi kokuba kubekhona isifunda sase-Heshan, itiye lase-Gulao lase likhona” (未有鹤山县，先有古劳茶) — ngempela itiye lavela lapha ngesikhathi se-Song-Yuan, kanti isifunda sase-Heshan sasungulwa kuphela ngo-1732. Uhlu lwalo olusezingeni eliphezulu — “Gǔláo Yínzhēn” (古劳银针, “Inalithi Yesiliva yaseGulao”), okungu-“Cuìyán Yínzhēn” (翠岩银针, “Inalithi Yesiliva Yedwala Elihlaza”), — yathola ukuqhathaniswa namatiye ase-Wuyishan emibhalweni yomlando yase-Qing: “Ukunambitheka kwe-Gulaocha kuyafana nokwe-Wuyishan, kodwa kunezwe iphunga” (古劳茶味匹武夷而带芳). Le tiye lidume ngephunga eliyingqayizivele “lezimbali zomlilo” (火花香, huǒhuā xiāng) — umphumela wokugazinga kokugcina okushisa okuphezulu kakhulu okungaphezu kuka-300°C+, — kanye nefomula yokunambitha eyinkondlo: “Ukugaywa kokuqala — ukushisa komlilo, / Okwesibili — iphunga likashukela, / Okwesithathu — umoya onokuthula, / Okwesine — ukunambitheka kuhlanzekile” (头泡火气味，二泡糖香生，三泡神怡然，再泡味尚醇). Ngo-2015 lathola isikhundla somkhiqizo ogunyaziwe waseNingizimu ngokwendawo (CHINA-PGI).

1. Ukuhlukaniswa kanye Nemvelaphi:

• Uhlobo: Itiye eliluhlaza (绿茶, lǜchá), elingavutshelwe. Liwela ngaphansi kwamatiye aluhlaza agazingiwe (炒青绿茶, chǎoqīng lǜchá) ngokugazinga kokugcina okushisa okuphezulu okungavamile (高火滚炒). Uhlu oluphakeme lwe-“Yínzhēn” (银针) luyizinalithi ezimise okwesileyiti; uhlu olujwayelekile lwe-“Gulaocha” (劈蕊, Pīruǐ) luyizicucu eziyimicu.

• Isigaba: Itiye elingokomlando elidume kakhulu lase-Guangdong (广东历史名茶). Umkhiqizo ogunyaziwe waseNingizimu ngokwendawo (国家地理标志保护产品, 2015). Ifa elingaphatheki (非物质文化遗产) — ubuchwepheshe bokukhiqiza. Omunye wamatiye amathathu adume kakhulu e-Heshan (kanye ne-Baishuidai Cha ne-Ma’ershan Cha). Ummeleli wamasiko etiye lase-Lingnan (岭南茶文化).

• Imvelaphi: I-China, isifundazwe sase-Guangdong (广东省, Guǎngdōng Shěng), idolobha lase-Jiangmen (江门市, Jiāngmén Shì), indawo yase-Heshan (鹤山市, Hèshān Shì), indawana yaseGulao (古劳镇, Gǔláo Zhèn). Izingadi zetiye zisemagqumeni aphansi (ama-200–500 m) enyakatho-ntshonalanga yendawana: Lishui (丽水), Chashan (茶山), Maishui (麦水), Xialu (下陆). Ngasentshonalanga — izintaba ze-Dayunwu (大云雾山), eningizimu — izintaba ze-Gudou (古兜山).

• Izixhumanisi zomhlaba: Cishe 22°46′ North latitude, 112°52′ East longitude.

2. Umlando Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

• Umlando: IGulaocha — ngelinye lamatiye amadala e-Guangdong anomlando ongaphezu kweminyaka engu-700 (ngezinye izinguqulo, ofinyelela eminyakeni engu-1600).

  Inganekwane ngemvelaphi. Ngokwendabuko, imbongi yange-Tang u-Cao Song (曹松, Cáo Sōng, ngekhulu lesi-9), owayehlala entabeni ye-Xiqiaoshan (西樵山), waletha imbewu yetiye elidumile i-Guzhu Zisun (顾渚紫笋) esuka e-Zhejiang wayitshala entabeni. Indawana yaseGulao, ephambana nomfula ibheke e-Xiqiaoshan, yamukela le nsiko, futhi ngesikhathi se-Song-Yuan (13th–14th century) ukulinywa kwetiye lapha kwase kunzulu. Ngokusho kwenguqulo ethile, eminyakeni ye-Song owesilisa nowesifazane baseFujian bahlala emhumeni wamatshe esigodini sase-Lishui Shiyantou (丽水石岩头) futhi baqala ukulima itiye; emva kokufa kwabo bahlonishwa njengo “Mkhulu Wetshe noGogo Wetshe” (石公石婆). Inzalo yabo yagcwala intaba, kwathi igama lentaba i-“Kuigenshan” (葵根山) lashintshelwa ku-“Chashan” (茶山, “Intaba Yetiye”).

  Imvuthuluka (Qing, 18th–19th century). Ngesikhathi sika-Kangxi-Yongzheng-Qianlong (1662–1795) izintaba zase-Heshan zathutheleka abasabalalisi bama-Hakka (客家) abavela empumalanga nasenyakatho ye-Guangdong, okwandisa kakhulu amasimu etiye. Umbhalo womlando i-“Heshan Xianzhi” (《鹤山县志》, 1827) ubeka isithombe esigcwele senhlanhla: “Azikho izintaba ezingalitshali itiye, izimakethe zetiye zingaphezu kwezingu-60” (无山不产茶，茶市达60余处). Ezintabeni i-Chashan ne-Dayanshan “konke ukubheka izihlahla zetiye kuphela, abavuni abapheli” (一望皆茶树，来往采茶者不绝). Ngesikhathi sika-Daoguang (道光, 1820–1850) indawo yezingadi zetiye e-Heshan yafinyelela ku-80,000 mu (~5,300 ha), umkhiqizo waminyaka yonke wawungu-80,000 dan, kuthengiselwa amazwe angaphandle kwakungu-30,000 dan. Itiye lalithengiswa ngezinkampani zama-Canton “yanghang” (洋行) layiswa eYurophu, eMelika, e-Australia naseNingizimu-mpumalanga ye-Asia. I-Heshan yathola isihloko esingekho emthethweni esithi “Isifunda sokuqala setiye sase-Guangdong” (广东茶业第一县) — esicongweni sayo ingxenye yokuthengiswa kwetiye kwelinye izwe yayifinyelela ku-80%.

  Isimo esibucayi nokunyamalala cishe ngokuphelele. Ngesikhathi sika-Xianfeng-Tongzhi (1851–1874) indawo yase-Heshan yaba yizwe le-“Hongbing Qiyi” (洪兵起义) kanye nezingxabano phakathi kwamaqembu (土客械斗), ezaqhubeka iminyaka engaphezu kweyi-10. Izingadi zetiye zashiswa noma zalahlwa; indawo yasuka ku-80,000 yehlela ku-28,000 mu. Emva kweMpi Yezwe I, abashayeli bamazwe angaphandle batshala imali ezindaweni ezibizwa nge-“Jinshan-zhuang” (金山庄, “Amapulazi Egolide”), okwabuyisela ukuthengiswa kwelinye izwe okwesikhashana kwafinyelela ku-55,000 dan/ngonyaka, kodwa ikhwalithi yehla. Ngo-1937 ku-Chashan kwase kusele kuphela ama-448 mu, ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-21 kwakucishe kube ngu-100 mu. “Inalithi Yesiliva yaseGulao” yacishe yanyamalala ngokuphelele: ngokobuciko babalimi bendawo, “i-Yínzhēn yilapho abathandi betiye bekhuphukela ezintabeni ezijulile, bezitholela izihlahla zasendle, bezicubungula futhi beziphuza ngokwabo”.

  Ukuvuselelwa (21st century). Kusukela ngeminyaka yama-2000, abaphathi base-Heshan bethule uhlelo lokuvuselela imboni yetiye. Ngo-2015 “Gulaocha” yathola isikhundla somkhiqizo ogunyaziwe waseNingizimu ngokwendawo. Kwasungulwa i-“Gulao Chashan zhengtai yuan” (古劳茶山生态园) — ingadi yetiye yemvelo engama-800 mu ngokutshalwa kwezimali okuyi-10 million yuan. Kulethwa imihlobo emisha (i-Yunnan Daye Zhong, i-Jin Mudan njll.), kanti kugcinwa ubuchwepheshe bephunga “lezimbali zomlilo”.

• Igama:

  • U-“Gulao” (古劳) — igama lendawana. Igama lendawo, ngokusho kwenguqulo ethile, lisukela esithasiselweni solimi lwesi-Canton oluchaza indawo; ngokusho kwesinye, lihlobene nozalo lukamndeni wakwa-Gu (古).
  • U-“Cha” (茶) — itiye.
  • Amagama omlando emikhakha: “Cuiyán” (翠岩, “Idwala Elihlaza”), “Lóngyá” (龙芽, “Imbewu Kadhrako”), “Xuěgǔ” (雪谷, “Isigodi Seqhwa”), “Báilù” (白露, “Amazolo Amhlophe”), “Yínzhēn” (银针, “Inalithi Yesiliva”). Isithakazelo — “Huǒhuā xiāngchá” (火花香茶, “Itiye Lephunga Lezimbali Zomlilo”).

• Ukubaluleka kwamasiko: IGulaocha liwuphawu lwamasiko etiye lwama-Hakka (客家) e-Guangdong. Ama-Hakka ngabantu abafudukayo, abaphethe ukukhumbula izwe elishiywe; futhi itiye lase-Gulao, ngokusho kwabantu bendawo, “ligcwele ukukhumbula okufanayo okujulile nokukude ngezwe lakubo njengoba nama-Hakka.” Ingqalabutho u-Yelü Chucai (耶律楚材, 1190–1244), umeluleki odumile kaGenghis Khan, wanikela ngetiye lase-Lingnan ngemigqa emine: “Indoda ehloniphekile yangipha itiye lase-Lingnan, / Ngilinambitha — izimbali ezindizayo, iqhwa lalisibekela inqola, / Izinkomishi ezintathu zemvuthuluka ye-jade — ezihlumela ezithambile kakhulu, / Indweblo eluhlaza, iqabunga elilodwa — embewini esanda kugaywa” (高人惠我岭南茶，烂尝飞花雪没车，玉屑三瓯烹嫩蕊，青旗一叶碾新芽). Ngesikhathi se-Qing kwakuhamba ingoma yomdabu: “Uma ufuna ukuphila kahle — yenda e-Lishui” (真好采，嫁丽水) — okusikisela ukuchuma kwemizana yetiye.

3. Isincazelo Sezitshalo kanye Nezinto Ezisetshenziswayo:

• Uhlobo / Umhlobo wesitshalo: Izinhlobo zomdabu — imiphakathi yendawo ye-Camellia sinensis var. sinensis, ehlukaniswa ngezigaba ezimbili:

  • Qīngruǐ (青蕊, “Ingaphakathi Eliluhlaza”) — uhlobo “lomhlumela oluhlaza” (青芽型). Luletha itiye elinephunga eliphakeme nelihlanzekile. Kungu-Qīngruǐ lapho kukhiqizwa khona i-“Inalithi Yesiliva yaseGulao”.
  • Hóngruǐ (红蕊, “Ingaphakathi Elibomvu”) — uhlobo “lomhlumela obomvu” (红芽型). Iphunga liphansi; lisetshenziselwa imikhakha eminingi. Ezingadini zesimanje, ngaphezu kwalokho, kutshalwe izinhlobo ezithile ezifana ne-Yunnan Daye Zhong (云南大叶种), i-Jin Mudan (金牡丹) nezinye ezingenisiwe.

• Ukuvuna: Ukuhlukaniswa okunzima ngezinkathi zonyaka:

  • Cuiyán (翠岩, “Idwala Elihlaza”) / Lóngyá (龙芽) — ukuvuna kwasekuqaleni ngokwedlulele: ngaphambi komkhosi we-“She” (社前, ~i-equinox yasentwasahlobo). Ikhwalithi ephakeme kakhulu.
  • Xuěgǔ (雪谷, “Isigodi Seqhwa”), okuyi-“Xuěgǔ Yá” (雪谷芽) — ibanga eliphezulu le-“Yínzhēn”, ukuvuna ngasekupheleni kwe-Chunfen (春分, ~21 March). Izinga: umhlumela owodwa oneqabunga elisanda kuvuleka kancane, ubude 1.5–2.0 cm, umhlumela umbala ophuzi ngokuluhlaza, uboya buningi.
  • Hēiruǐ (黑蕊, “Ingaphakathi Elimnyama”), okuyi-“Dòuchǐ Lì” (豆豉粒, “Uhlamvu Lwe-Douchi”) — ibanga elijwayelekile le-“Yínzhēn”, ukuvuna ngasekupheleni kwe-Qingming. Izinga: umhlumela owodwa onamaqabunga amabili.
  • Pīruǐ (劈蕊, “Ingaphakathi Elihlukanisiwe”) — i-“Gulaocha” eningi. Izinga: umhlumela owodwa onamaqabunga amabili kuya kwamathathu.
  • Báilù (白露) — ukuvuna kwasekwindla ngasekupheleni kwe-Bailu (~8 September). Zonke ezinye izinyanga — yi-“Yínzhēn”.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokulima:

• Isimo sezulu: Isimo sezulu esingaphansi kwezindawo ezishisayo, esilungiswe ukusondela kwe-Xijiang. Izinga lokushisa lonyaka eliphakathi — 21.8°C. Isikhathi esingenasithwathwa — cishe unyaka wonke. Imvula yonyaka — ~1,800 mm. Ukuhwamuka komoya ebusweni be-Xijiang kudala ukufiphala okungapheli kanye nomswakama ophakeme (80%+), kwakha emagqumeni aphansi (200–500 m) umphumela “wesimo sezulu sasentabeni ephansi ezindaweni eziphansi” (丘陵上的高山气候环境).

• Ukuphakama kokutshalwa: 200–500 m. Indawo ephakeme kakhulu — “Gao’aoding” (高凹顶), ~500 m. Ukuphakama okuphansi ngokwamanani aphelele, kodwa ukufiphala okungapheli nokuhwamuka komfula kuyakunxephezela ukuntuleka kokuphakama.

• Inhlabathi: Umhlabathi ophuzi one-acid (酸性黄壤), ujulile futhi uvundile, ucebile ngama-organic nezimbiwa. Kubaluleke kakhulu inhlabathi yendawo yase-Shiyantou (石岩头) — enamatshe (石岩), enika itiye lokho okubizwa nge-“yán yùn” (“umculo wedwala”) — ukunambitheka okuncane kwezimbiwa, okufana nama-oolong ase-Wuyishan.

• Izici zezingadi: Uhlelo lomdabu lokulima ngomthunzi — imigqa yetiye iphazanyiswa izihlahla ze-“yingshu” (楹树, izitshalo zomndeni wakwa-legume), ezakha ukukhanya okuhlakazekile. Inhlabathi imbozwe ngotshani (草覆保湿), okugcina umswakama.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

IGulaocha ikhiqizwa ngobuchwepheshe obujwayelekile bokugazinga ngesigaba sokugcina esiyingqayizivele — “ukugingqa ngomlilo omkhulu” (高火滚炒, gāohuǒ gǔnchǎo) ngaphezu kuka-300°C+, okwakha iphunga eliyingqayizivele “lezimbali zomlilo” (火花香).

• Ukukhipha amanzi ngobumnene (摊青 — tān qīng): Amahora angu-4–6. Ukubuna okuthambile.

• “Ukubulawa kokuluhlaza” (杀青 — shāqīng): Ukugazinga embizeni okungu-180–200°C ngendlela “yokujikijela phezulu” (扬炒, yáng chǎo). Ukuvala ama-enzyme ngokushesha.

• Ukusonteka (搓揉 — cuōróu): Ukusonteka okulula ngesandla kube umucu.

• “Xiǎo chǎo” — ukuqinisa isimo ngokufudumala (烚炒 — xiā chǎo): Ukugazinga okungu-~60°C ukuze kuqiniswe isimo. Ukusonteka nokwakha kabili (二次揉捻塑形).

• Ukomisa (焙干 — bèi gān): Ukomisa kancane ngomlilo ophansi (文火) kuze kube ngaphansi kuka-5% umswakama.

• Ukugingqa ngomlilo omkhulu (高火滚炒): Isigaba sokugcina esisemqoka, esinquma umlingiswa “wezimbali zomlilo” we-Gulaocha. Itiye lifakwa esigubhini esishisayo ngenani lokushisa elingu-300°C nangaphezulu futhi ligingqiwe ngokushesha kuze kwavela iphunga eliyingqayizivele le-caramelizied-njengamaqabunga ezimbali. Isilinganiso sokulungela: “iqabunga linothi lapho lihlikihlwa ngeminwe liba yimpuphu” — njengoba kuchazwe emibhalweni yasendulo i-“Tongjun Lu” (《桐君录》): “Iyayithatha [itiye], iyenze ibe yimpuphu ukuze iphuzwe” (取为屑茶饮). Lonke uhlelo — lwezandla kuphela, luthatha amahora angaba ngu-5 ukuze uthole ubuncane be-1 jin yetiye eliphelele.

• Indlela ethi “ukomisa kathathu — ukufudumeza kathathu” (三烘三提): Umjikelezo ophindwe kathathu wokomisa kanye “nokuphakamisa iphunga” ukuze leli phunga liqine ngokuphelele. Inkomishi ebandayo igcina iphunga imizuzu engaphezu kwengu-30.

6. Izici Zokunambitha Nokuzwa:

• Indlela ebukeka ngayo iqabunga elomile: Incike emkhakheni. Yínzhēn (雀舌茶): “izinalithi” eziqondile, eziminyene, ezisiliva-ngwevu ezinoboya obuningi. Dòuchǐ Lì: izinhlamvu eziyindilinga, ezifana ne-hook, eziluhlaza okumnyama ezinoboya obuncane. Pīruǐ: izicucu eziminyene, umbala uluhlaza-nsundu.

• Iphunga leqabunga elomile: “Iphunga lezimbali zomlilo” (火花香) — inhlanganisela eyingqayizivele yobumnandi be-caramel, ithoni yezimbali ze-orchid nokufudumala kwe-castnuts. Inkomishi ebandayo igcina iphunga imizuzu engaphezu kwengu-30.

• Iphunga lokuqholisa: Liphakeme, lihlanzekile, liqinile. “Ukugaywa kokuqala — ukushisa komlilo; okwesibili — iphunga likashukela; okwesithathu — umoya unokuthula; okwesine — ukunambitheka kuhlanzekile” (头泡火气味，二泡糖香生，三泡神怡然，再泡味尚醇).

• Ukunambitheka: Kumnandi, kumnandi, akukho kubaba okucijile (醇和回甘). Umzimba ophakathi nendawo. Ukubuya kobumnandi kuhlala isikhathi eside futhi kuyanda. Ezinqwabeni ezinhle kakhulu — kukhona ukunambitheka okuncane kwezimbiwa “okuyidwala” (岩韵), okukhumbuza ama-oolong ase-Wuyishan — umsindo womhlabathi oyitshe wase-Shiyantou.

• Umbala wokuqholisa: Luhlaza, okhanyayo futhi ogqamile (绿而明亮) — nge-“Yínzhēn”.

• Isisekelo setiye: Luhlaza okotshani obuncane, okuphelele, okulinganayo.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali:

• I-Polyphenols: 25–30%. Zinikeza amandla e-antioxidant.
• Ama-amino acid: 6–9% — izinga eliphezulu ngokwedlulele, elichaza ubumnandi obufana nobusi kanye “nomsoco” wokunambitheka.
• I-Caffeine: Izinga elimaphakathi.
• Amavitamini: Vitamin C, amavitamini eqembu B.
• Izimbiwa: I-K, Mg, Zn, Mn. Umhlabathi wase-Shiyantou ucebiswe ngezakhi zomkhondo ezivela ezindlekazaneni eziyitshe.

8. Izinzuzo Ezinempilo:

• Umsebenzi we-antioxidant: I-polyphenols 25–30%.
• Umphumela wokuvuselela: I-caffeine + L-theanine — ukuhlaziyeka okuthambile.
• Umphumela wokuqabula nokwehlisa ukushisa: Kubaluleke kakhulu esimweni sezulu esishisayo nesinomswakama sase-Guangdong.
• Ukusekela ukugaya: Ngokomdabu, i-Gulaocha iphuzwa ngemva kokudla okunamafutha kwase-Canton ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukugaya.
• Ukusekela isimiso senhliziyo nemithambo: I-polyphenols ziyasiza ekulawuleni imetabolism yamafutha.

9. Ukugaya:

• Izinga lokushisa lamanzi: 80–85°C. Nge-“Yínzhēn” ebangeni eliphezulu — 85°C (ukuze kwambuleke iphunga “lezimbali zomlilo” ngaphandle kokubaba ngokweqile).
• Inani letiye: 3 g nge-150 ml.
• Isitsha: Inkomishi yengilazi (ukubukela “izinalithi” ezisiliva) noma i-gaiwan yobumba.
• Inqubo:
  1. Faka ukudla okushisayo ezitsheni.
  2. Thela itiye.
  3. Thela u-1/3 wamanzi ukuze “uwahlambulule” (润茶, imizuzwana engu-30), uwakhiphe.
  4. Thela amanzi aze afike ku-7/10 womthamo. Gcoba imizuzu engu-1–2.
  5. Ibanga eliphezulu lingamela ukugaywa oku-3, ngakunye kwengeza imizuzwana engu-10.
  6. Qaphela “izigaba ezine” zephunga: umlilo → ushukela → ukuthula → ukuhlanzeka.

10. Ukugcinwa:

• Ukupakishwa okuvalwe ngokuphelele, ukuvikela ekukhanyeni, umswakama namaphunga.
• Okufaneleke kakhulu — isiqandisi esingu-0–5°C.
• Emva kokuvula — sebenzisa phakathi nenyanga eyodwa ukuze uthole ubusha obukhulu.
• Ku-60°C ukugqilaza kuvezwa ubusha obukhulu (鲜爽).

11. Intengo kanye Nokukhwabaniswa:

• Isigaba sentengo: Ingxenye ephezulu yamatiye aluhlaza e-Guangdong. Ibanga eliphakeme kakhulu “Cuiyán Yínzhēn” (翠岩银针, “Inalithi Yesiliva Yedwala Elihlaza”) lase-Lishui — lisukela ku-880 yuan nge-50 g (.). Ibanga lokuqala “Dòuchǐ Lì” — ~260 yuan nge-100 g. I-“Pīruǐ” eningi — iyatholakala kalula.
• Ungakugwema kanjani ukukhwabaniswa:
  • Thenga kwa-“Gulao Chashan shengtai yuan” (古劳茶山生态园) noma kubathengisi abagunyaziwe.
  • Hlola ukumakwa kwendawo okugunyaziwe.
  • I-“Yínzhēn” yangempela — isiliva-ngwevu, inoboya obuningi, iqondile njengenalithi. Okokukhwabanisa kuvame ukufiphala nokugobile.
  • Isivivinyo esiyinhloko: iphunga “lezimbali zomlilo” — eliyi-caramel-yezimbali ze-orchid, eliqinile. Angeke likwazi ukulingiswa ngezinto zokunambitha.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

• “Lalingekho isifunda — kanti itiye lase likhona”. Inkulumo ethi “未有鹤山县，先有古劳茶” ibeka ukungqubuzana kwezikhathi: itiye lase-Gulao lalikhona isikhathi eside ngaphambi kokuba kusungulwe isifunda sase-Heshan ngo-1732 (雍正十年). Ngaphambi kwalokhu, i-Gulao yayiyingxenye yesifunda sase-Xinhui (新会).

• U-Yelü Chucai kanye netiye lase-Lingnan. Umeluleki omkhulu kaGenghis Khan, umfundi waseMongolia u-Yelü Chucai (耶律楚材, 1190–1244) wanikela nge-Lingnan ngemigqa emine — obunye bobufakazi obudala benkondlo ngetiye lase-Guangdong.

• Umbhalo we-Qing uma uqhathaniswa ne-Wuyishan. Irekhodi ku-“Heshan Xianzhi” (乾隆版《鹤山县志》): “古劳茶味匹武夷而带芳” — “Ukunambitheka kwe-Gulaocha kuyafana nokwetiy le-Wuyishan, kodwa kunezwe iphunga” — isenzakalo esiyingqayizivele lapho umbhalo wesifunda ubeka itiye lendawo eliluhlaza ezingeni elifanayo nama-oolong adumile ase-Wuyishan.

• 300°C kanye “ne-Tongjun Lu”. Ukugazinga kokugcina okungaphezu kuka-300°C — izinga lapho itiye ngokoqobo “liba yimpuphu lapho lihlikihlwa”. Lobu buchwepheshe busukela emibhalweni yasendulo i-“Tongjun Lu” (《桐君录》, 3rd–5th century): “取为屑茶饮” — “Iyayithatha [itiye], iyenze ibe imvuthuluka ukuze iphuzwe”.

• Amaphesenti angu-80 okuthunyelwa kwelinye izwe e-Guangdong. Esicongweni sayo (1820–1850), i-Heshan yayikhiqiza ifinyelela ku-80% wakho konke ukuthunyelwa kwetiye kwesifundazwe sase-Guangdong — ukugcwala okungakaze kwenzeke esifundeni esisodwa. Itiye lalithengiswa ngezinkampani zama-Canton “yanghang” (洋行) layiswa eYurophu, eMelika nase-Australia.

• Itiye elicishe lashabalala. Ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-21 ku-Chashan — “ikhaya” lomlando le-Gulaocha — kwakusele kuphela ama-~100 mu wezingadi zetiye (kusuka ku-80,000 esicongweni). I-“Yínzhēn” yangempela evela ezihlahleni ezindala zohlobo lwe-Qīngruǐ ayikhiqizelwa ukuthengisa : “Abathandi betiye bakhuphukela ezintabeni ezijulile, bathole izihlahla zasendle, bazenzele futhi baziphuzela ngokwabo” — kufakaza umlimi wendawo u-Lao Jinming (劳锦明), osebenza ku-Chashan amashumi eminyaka.

13. Ukuqhathaniswa namanye amatiye aluhlaza e-Guangdong:

• Mǎtú Lǜchá (马图绿茶): Nayo ise-Guangdong, isezintabeni. IGulaocha inendlela eyingqayizivele “yokuhwamuka” yokomisa, “eyakudala” kakhulu.

• Yīngdé Lǜchá (英德绿茶): E-Yingde. Amaqabunga amakhulu, i-var. assamica. IGulaocha inamaqabunga amancane, i-var. sinensis, iphrofayili ehluke ngokuphelele.

• Kānghé Chá (康禾茶): Nayo ise-Guangdong, itiye lomlando. Womabili amatiye aluhlaza e-Guangdong anqabile, kodwa asuka ezifundeni ezahlukene ezinendawo ehlukene.

13. Ukuqhathaniswa namanye amatiye e-Guangdong:

• Mǎtú Lǜchá (马图绿茶): Nayo ise-Guangdong, isezindaweni eziphakeme. IGulaocha isezindaweni eziphansi (22 m), inokugazinga okushisa okuphezulu kakhulu (300°C).

• Yīngdé Lǜchá (英德绿茶): E-Guangdong. Amaqabunga amakhulu (var. assamica). IGulaocha inamaqabunga amancane (var. sinensis), kodwa inobuchwepheshe “bomlilo”, okusondela kuma-oolong.

• Kānghé Chá (康禾茶): E-Guangdong. Itiye “elomlilo omkhulu” wama-Hakka. Ifilosofi efanayo “yomlilo”, kodwa iGulaocha ize iqine nakakhulu (300°C uma iqhathaniswa no-~200°C e-Kanghe).

Ekuphetheni:

IGulaocha liyitiye elinokuhlupheka okufanelwe inoveli: kusukela ekuchumeni kwe-Song ngokusebenzisa amasimu angu-80,000 mu e-Qing kanye nokuthunyelwa eYurophu — kuya ekunyamalaleni cishe ngokuphelele ekhulwini lama-20 kanye nokuvuselelwa okungaqiniseki eminyakeni yama-2000. Iphunga lalo “lezimbali zomlilo” — umphumela wokugazinga okushisa okuphezulu okungaphezu kuka-300°C — alunakho ukufaniswa phakathi kwamatiye aluhlaza wase-China futhi liwuhlobo olusondelene kakhulu nama-oolong agazingiwe. Ifomula ethi “ukugaywa kokuqala — ukushisa; okwesibili — ushukela; okwesithathu — ukuthula; okwesine — ukuhlanzeka” akuyona into yokukhangisa, kepha ibalazwe elinembayo lokuzwa, eliqinisekiswe amakhulu eminyaka. Itiye lalabo abazisa enkomishini hhayi ukunambitheka kuphela, kodwa nomlando — obabayo njengokuphuza kokuqala kwe-Gulaocha, futhi umnandi njengokunambitheka kwalo okulandelayo.