Qī wǔ qī èr

I-7572 akulona uhlobo lwethiya noma indawo, kodwa iyimàihào (唛号), inombolo yeresiphi yasefektri, esiphenduke isilinganiso esingekho emthethweni salo lonke uhlobo lwe-shu-puer (熟普, shú pǔ’ěr). Kungenxa yaleli—ngenxa yephrofayili yalo eminyene, enomhlabathi omnandi ene-«勐海味»—lapho imakethe isahlola khona ukuthi yini okufanele ibhekwe ‘njenge-shu ecindezelwe efanele’.

Okufihlwe enombolweni

Uhlelo lwe-màihào luyikhodi emfushane yokukhiqiza, okwathi ngesikhathi senkathi yohlelo lwemboni yetiye ehleliwe, lwathatha indawo yamagama okumaketha. Izinombolo ezine zifundeka kanje:

• ezimbili zokuqala — unyaka lapho iresiphi (inhlanganisela) yabhalwa khona, lapha ngu-75, okungukuthi ngo-1975;
• eyesithathu — izinga elimaphakathi lezinto zokusetshenziswa ngokobuncane beqabunga; isibalo sincane, izinto ezibuthakathaka kakhudlwana — lapha ngu-7, okuyizinga eliphakathi nendawo leqabunga, izinga ‘lokusebenza’;
• eyesine — ikhodi yefektri: 1 — iKunming (昆明), 2 — iMenghai (勐海), 3 — iXiaguan (下关), 4 — iPuer (普洱); lapha ngu-2, okungukuthi iMenghai Factory.

Ngakho-ke u-7572 ‘iresiphi yango-1975, izinto zokusetshenziswa zesigaba sesikhombisa, ifektri engunombolo-2’. Kubalulekile ukuqonda ukuthi isibalo sesithathu asisho iqabunga elilodwa eliqondile, kodwa ubuncane obuqondiwe benhlanganisela: umxubi uhlanganisa ingxube yezinhlobo eziningi ukuze ubuncane bayo obumaphakathi buhlale bulingana ‘nesikhombisa’. Lokhu kuzinza kweresiphi kungumongo we-màihào: ukunambitheka akuhlobene nesivuno esisodwa, kodwa nefomula ekwazi ukuphindwa.

I-Terroir kanye Nezinto Zokusetshenziswa

I-7572 ingumkhiqizo wesiko laseMenghai (勐海, eningizimu yeYunnan, iSifunda saseXishuangbanna), futhi imvelaphi yaseMenghai ngokwayo iyona enikeza isimilo sayo esaziwayo. Izinto zokusetshenziswa zi-wuhlobo lwamahlamvu amakhulu esihlahla setiye saseYunnan (云南大叶种, yúnnán dàyè zhǒng), okuyisisekelo sawo wonke ama-puer: iqabunga eliwugqinsi elinokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwe-polyphenol nezinto ezikhishwayo, elikwazi ukubekezelela ukuvutshelwa kahle futhi linikeze ukumnandi okugcwele, okunothe.

Inhlanganisela ye-7572 iyinhlanganisela yezinhlobo eziningi ngokuyisisekelo. Ngokungafani nama-shu ayi-premium ‘anebhodwe elilodwa’, lapha kusebenza ingxube yamacembe anobunzima nokuvuthwa obuhlukahlukene: izingxenyana ezithambile zinikeza ubumnandi ‘nomzimba’, kanti ezimahhadlahhadla zinikeza isakhiwo, isekelo le-tannin kanye nesisekelo esijwayelekile ‘sokhuni nomhlabathi’. Isigaba sesikhombisa yilokhu kuhlanganisela: kuthambile ngokwanele ukuthi kushelele, futhi kumahhadla ngokwanele ukugcina ukunothe unyaka nonyaka.

Ubuchwepheshe: 渥堆 kanye ne-«勐海味»

I-Shu-puer yehlukile kuyi-sheng-puer ngomsebenzi obalulekile — ukufukwa okumanzi (渥堆, wòduī). Lokhu wukuvutshelwa okulawulwa ngama-microbe: izinto zetiye ezifakwe umswakama zinqwabelaniswa zibe izinqwaba ezinkulu, lapho ngaphansi kwethonya lokushisa, umswakama kanye nama-microflora, emasontweni ambalwa, kwenzeka ‘ukuguga’ okusheshisayo, okuthatha amashumi eminyaka ku-puer ongahluziwe. Iqabunga liyafiphala, ama-tannin ayathamba, kuvele uhla lwezwi olujwayelekile olunomhlabathi omnandi, ‘olusegumbini elingaphansi komhlaba’.

Into ethakazelisa kakhulu nge-shu ukuthi i-wòduī ayinyumba futhi ayifani yonke indawo. I-microflora yendawo yokusebenzela, amanzi endawo, umswakama kanye nesikole ngokwaso sochwepheshe kwakha uphawu lwesifunda — 味型 (wèixíng, ‘uhlobo lokunambitheka’). Kwi-7572 lolophawu lubizwa ngokuthi «勐海味» (měnghǎi wèi, ‘ukunambitheka kwaseMenghai’): ukuvutshelwa okuminyene kakhudlwana, okufudumele, nobujule obuncane ‘bokhuni ne-camphor’, okuhlukile ekuqineni okomile kweKunming (昆明味, kūnmíng wèi) kanye nasekululameni kweLincang (临沧味, líncāng wèi). Empeleni, ‘ukunambitheka kwaseMenghai’ yilokho iningi labaphuzayo elikuthatha ngokunganaki ‘njengokunambitheka kwe-shu jikelele’, ngenxa enkulu yobukhona bayo yonke indawo be-7572.

Ngemuva kokufukwa nokuhlungwa kwezinto zokusetshenziswa, kucindezelwa kube idiski elijwayelekile—i-bǐng (饼), ama-357 g akudala — kuyashiswa ngesitimu, kubunjwe futhi komiswe. Ukwakheka okucindezelwe kubalulekile: i-7572 yayihloselwe ukuba itiye ‘lokusebenza’ elikhulu, elithuthwayo, neligcinekayo, futhi i-bing ilungele lokhu ngokuphelele.

Amazinga kanye Nendawo kulayini

I-Puer njengesigaba ilawulwa amazinga kazwelonke aseChina (GB/T), ahlukanisa izinhlobo ze-生 (sheng, eluhlaza) kanye ne-熟 (shu, evutshiwe) futhi achaza izinto zokusetshenziswa zohlobo lwamahlamvu amakhulu aseYunnan. I-7572 ingena ngokuphelele encazelweni eyisisekelo ye-shu: izinto zokusetshenziswa zamahlamvu amakhulu aseYunnan, ezidlule kwi-wòduī, ezicindezelwe zaba idiski.

Esigabeni semakethe sama-shu, i-7572 ithatha isigaba esimaphakathi, ‘esiyisilinganiso’. Kulula ukusiqonda ngokusebenzisa omakhelwane basefektri efanayo kanye nemindeni yeresiphi efanayo:

• 宫廷普洱 (gōngtíng pǔ’ěr, ‘umbuso’) — izinga eliphakeme lobuncane, acishe abe ngamabhodwe kanye neqabunga elicolekile kakhulu; i-shu ebushelelezi futhi ‘enombala onofifi’ kunazo zonke, i-premium;
• 7262 — iresiphi yesimanje ye-Menghai esezintweni ezisetshenziswayo ezithambile (isigaba sesithupha), ethambile kakhudlwana futhi ‘eyi-premium’ ngokuphawulekayo;
• 7572 — ‘isikhombisa’ esimaphakathi, isilinganiso sokuhlanganisela nokusabalala;
• 8592 — iresiphi yango-1985, isigaba sesishiyagalolunye, evela kuma-«老五样» (‘amasampula amadala amahlanu’), emahhadla futhi ‘esemaphandleni’ kakhudlwana;
• 7581 — ulayini ‘wezitini’ we-Kunming (中茶), ngokomlando esinye sezitini zokuqala ze-shu; ifektri ehlukile, ukwakheka okuhlukile kanye ne-wèixíng ehlukile.

Kulesi sikali, i-7572 iyindawo yokuqalisa: eshibhile ngokwanele ukuphuzwa nsuku zonke, futhi ‘ifanele’ ngokwanele ukuthi kungalinganiswa ngayo ukunambitheka.

Ukunambitheka Nokuphisa

Iphrofayili ye-7572 iyincwadi yokufunda ye-shu ‘yaseMenghai’: ithoni efudumele enomhlabathi nokhuni, ubumnandi bemvelo obucacile ngemuva, ‘umzimba’ wokumnandi ominyene, obushelelezi ongenabo ubukrakra obuhlabayo. Amaqoqo amasha angase abe nethoni ‘esanda kufukwa’ (堆味, duīwèi) — enomswakama kancane futhi enjengegumbi elingaphansi; ngokuvuthwa, ihamba, inikeze indawo yobumnandi obuhlanzekile, obuyindilinga kanye namanothi ezithelo ezomisiwe. Umbala wokumnandi ubomvu onsundu ngokujulile, ezikhathini ezigcwele cishe awubonakali.

Umkhuba wokuphisa:

• isitsha — i-gàiwǎn (盖碗) noma itiye le-Yixing eliminyene; i-shu ibekezelela kahle ubucwebe ‘obusindayo’;
• amanzi abilayo asezingeni eliphezulu (cishe 100 °C) — iqabunga elivutshiwe lithanda izinga lokushisa eliphezulu;
• ukugeza-‘ukuvusa’ okuyimpoqo (洗茶): ukukhipha okukodwa noma okubili okufushane, ukususa uthuli lokucindezela nokuthambisa i-duīwèi esencane;
• ukuphisa okufushane (imizuzwana emi-5 – 10 okokuqala, ngokwelula kancane kancane); i-shu iyakuxolela ukufakwa okuminyene futhi inikeza imizamo eminingi;
• ukufakwa okuphanayo (cishe 7 – 8 g ku-100 ml) — i-7572 ivuleka ‘ngomzimba’, hhayi ngamaphunga athambile.

Leli tiye, okunzima ‘ukulibulala’ ngokuphisa budedengu—ngokwengxenye yingakho liye laba ihhashi elisebenzayo labantu.

Umlando Namasiko

Ubuchwepheshe be-wòduī njengendlela yezimboni bacwasiswa maphakathi nawo-1970; kungalesi sikhathi lapho kwahlanganiswa khona izinombolo zeresepe eziyisisekelo ‘zamashumi ayisikhombisa nanhlanu’, kufaka phakathi i-7572. Ukuvela kohlelo lwe-màihào kanye nokuqiniswa kwamaresiphi kwasho ukuguquka kwe-puer kusuka kumkhiqizo wezandla, oncike esimweni sezulu, iye ezingeni lezimboni elikwazi ukuphindwa. I-7572 evela eMenghai Factory (namuhla ngaphansi kophawu lwe-大益, Dàyì) yaba i-shu bing enezikhathi eziningi futhi ‘ubuso’ besigaba: ngayo umuntu ufunda ukuhlukanisa i-shu kwi-sheng, ngayo i-‘zero’ yokunambitha iyasethwa.

Ngokwamasiko, i-7572 iyi-puer yentando yeningi, yansuku zonke: itiye lokuphuzwa njalo, lokulinganisa ukunambitheka, lokuzwisisa ukuthi isitayela ‘saseMenghai’ siyini. Akuvamisile ukuthi ibe yinto yokugijimela ukuqoqwa ngokwayo, kodwa kungenxa yalokhu lapho ihlala iyisilinganiso esithembeke kakhulu sohlobo.

Ungahlukanisa Kanjani

• Funda inombolo. ‘75-7-2’: iresiphi yango-1975, isigaba sesikhombisa, iMenghai Factory. Uma isibalo sokugcina kungeyona ‘u-2’ — kungesinye isikhungo kanye ne-wèixíng ehlukile, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi i-bing ibukeka ifana kangakanani.
• Ukwakheka. I-7572 iyidiski elicindezelwe bǐng (ngokujwayelekile 357 g), hhayi isitini; isitini, ngokwesibonelo, yi-7581 yaseKunming.
• Iphrofayili. Bheka ‘umzimba’ ophakathi ngokuminyene, ubumnandi obufudumele bomhlaba nokhuni kanye nesimilo ‘saseMenghai’ esingenabo ubukrakra obuhlaselayo. Ukumahhadla ngokweqile nobukrakra ‘basemaphandleni’ kusondele ku-8592; ubushelelezi obucishe bungabi namzimba, obunombala onofifi kanye namabhodwe kusondele ku-宫廷 kanye no-7262.
• Izinto zokusetshenziswa. Lena yinhlanganisela yezinhlobo eziningi, hhayi into ‘yebhodwe elilodwa’; iqabunga elibushelelezi ngokufanayo, elithambile ngokugcwele lapho liphukile—yisizathu sokungabaza ukuthi ‘yisikhombisa’ okuphambi kwakho.
• Ubusha ngokumelene nokuguga. I-7572 entsha ingase inuke ifuku (duīwèi); lokhu kuvamile eqoqweni elisha futhi kuyahamba ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, kodwa akumele kusibekele isisekelo ngokwaso esimnandi nesokhuni.

I-7572 iyigugu ngenxa yokubikezela kwayo: lesi akusona isiqongo futhi akuyona into engavamile, kodwa isilinganiso esikalelwe, okulula kakhulu ukufunda ukulalela ngaso ukuthi i-shu-puer ithini ngempela.