niúròu mǎròu

Phakathi kwama-wulong ase-Wuyishan (武夷岩茶) kuye kwavela ulimi olukhethekile lwabazi, lapho uhlobo ròuguì (肉桂) luyeka nje ukuba uhlobo futhi luphenduka ibalazwe lamadwala: itiye liqanjwa hhayi ngesihlahla, kodwa ngomfantu othize lapho likhula khona. Amagama amabili aduma kakhulu kulo mndeni ‘wenyama’ (肉) — niúròu (牛肉) kanye ne-mǎròu (马肉).

Umkhuba ‘we-肉’: lapho igama lohlobo liba ikheli

Ama-wulong ase-Wuyishan akhelwe phezu komgomo izingcweti zendawo eziphinda njengeqiniso elingenakuphikiswa: yányùn (岩韵, ‘ukuvumelana kwedwala’) = 山场 × uhlobo × ukugazinga. Lapha, shānchǎng (山场) kusho i-micro-terroir, indawo ethile yamadwala, kanti uhlobo luvame ukufana — i-rougui, enye yezimila ‘zasekhaya’ zalesi sifunda (当家品种) kanye ne-shuǐxiān (水仙).

Lapho i-rougui evela emadwaleni ahlukene adumile iqala ukuthengiswa ngayinye, kwavela umdlalo wamagama. Uhlamvu lwesiShayina 肉 (ròu) egameni 肉桂 lusho ‘inyama’, futhi abathengisi baqala ukufinyeza amagama amade bawaqamba izidlaliso ‘zenyama’ ngokususelwa kuhlamvu lokuqala lwegama ledwala:

• 牛肉 (niúròu) — i-rougui evela esigodini sase-牛栏坑 (Niúlánkēng);
• 马肉 (mǎròu) — i-rougui evela edwaleni i-马头岩 (Mǎtóuyán);
• 猪肉 (zhūròu) — evela e-竹窠 (Zhúkē);
• 猴肉 (hóuròu) — evela e-水帘洞 (Shuǐliándòng);
• 羊肉 (yángròu) — evela e-三仰峰 (Sānyǎngfēng);
• 心头肉 (xīntóuròu) — evela e-天心岩 (Tiānxīnyán);
• 龙肉 (lóngròu) — evela e-九龙窠 (Jiǔlóngkē);
• 虎肉 (hǔròu) — evela e-虎啸岩 (Hǔxiàoyán).

I-Niúròu ngokwezwi nezwi ifundeka ngokuthi ‘inyama yenkomo’, mǎròu — ‘inyama yehhashi’, futhi lokhu kungaqondakali kahle okuphathelene nokupheka kube yingxenye yezinganekwane zokumaketha. Kodwa emva kwalo mdlalo kunombono oqinile: wonke umndeni ‘we-肉’ wuhlobo olulodwa lwe-rougui, olusatshalaliswe ezindaweni ezihlukene ze-micro-terroir, futhi wonke umqondo uwukuzwa ukuthi izakhi zofuzo ezifanayo zizwakala kanjani ngendlela ehlukile kuye ngedwala nokugazinga.

I-Terroir: i-正岩, i-三坑两涧 kanye namadwala amabili ahamba phambili

Lonke uhlelo lwase-Wuyishan luhlelwa ngokwezigaba ze-terroir: zhèngyán (正岩, ‘idwala langempela’) > bànyán (半岩, ‘idwala elingaphelele’) > zhōuchá (洲茶, itiye elivela emagcekeni omfula), okulandelwa yi-wàishān (外山) — okuyizinto ezingavuthiwe ezingaphandle komnyombo. Intengo nodumo kukhula kanye nesigaba, futhi omabili amaqhawe ethu angabesigaba esiphezulu — i-正岩.

Inhliziyo ye-正岩 ichazwa ngegama elithi ‘izigodi ezintathu, imifudlana emibili, amagodi amabili kanye nomgede owodwa’ (三坑两涧两窠一洞). Okusemqoka lapha — yi-牛栏坑 (Niúlánkēng), esinye sezigodi ezintathu ezinganekwaneni. Kungumfantu omncane, ojulile onesimo sezulu esipholile nesinomswakama, ukukhanya okuhlakazekile, kanye nomhlabathi ogcwele amatshe entaba-mlilo agugile. Yilezi zimo ezinikeza i-‘niurou’ isithunzi sayo njengesilinganiso esiyisibonelo: itiye elivela lapha sekungamashumi eminyaka lithathwa njengelinye lama-wulong asemadwaleni abiza kakhulu eShayina, futhi indawo ye-牛栏坑 yangempela inqunyelwe kakhulu.

I-马头岩 (Mǎtóuyán) — iwumbaxa wamadwala, omise okwekhanda lehhashi, yingakho igama linjalo. I-terroir lapha ivuleke kakhulu futhi inelanga kunaleyo esesigodini esiminyene i-牛栏坑: kunokukhanya okuqondile okwengeziwe, izinga lokushisa nomswakama kuhlukile. Lokhu kubeka umehluko oyisisekelo phakathi kwamatiye amabili ngisho nangaphambi kokuba iqabunga lifike enkulekweni.

Uhlobo: i-rougui (肉桂)

Kokubili i-‘niurou’ ne-‘marou’ zenziwa ngesilimo esisodwa — i-ròuguì (肉桂), esigunyazwe ngokusemthethweni njenge-良种 (uhlobo oluthuthukisiwe) lwase-Wuyishan. Igama libhekisela kusinamoni (肉桂 kusho futhi ‘isinamoni saseShayina’): uphawu lwalesi silimo — iphunga elinamandla lesinamoni, ngezinye izikhathi ‘elishisayo’, abathanda itiye abalibiza ngokuthi ‘iphunga lesinamoni’ (桂皮香). I-Rougui iyisihlahla esineqoqo lephunga eliqhamuka kamuva kodwa elinamandla, elikwazi ukumelana nokugazinga okunamandla, okuyikhona okwenze ukuthi ibe yikhandidethi ekahle yendima ‘yendwangu’ yokubonisa umehluko we-terroir.

Kubalulekile ukuqonda: izingxoxo nge-‘niurou’ ne-‘marou’ azikhulumi ngezihlahla ezihlukene, kodwa ngohlobo olulodwa ‘ezimisweni’ zamadwala ezihlukene. Ngakho-ke, ukunambitha la matiye ngendlela efanele kuhlala kuwukuqhathanisa ama-terroir ngohlobo olufanayo.

Ukucubungula: kusukela ku-做青 kuya ku-焙火

Ubuciko bawo wonke ama-wulong asemadwaleni buyafana futhi buwumjikelezo wakudala we-wulong evutshiwe kancane:

• ukushiswa elangeni noma endlini;
• zuòqīng (做青) — ukunyakaziswa/ukunyikinywa kweqabunga okuningi, okushintshaniswa nokuphumula; yilapha kwakheka khona izinga lokugqwala kwemiphetho yamaqabunga (‘iqabunga eliluhlaza elinomphetho obomvu’) futhi kubekwe isisekelo sephrofayili yephunga;
• ukulungiswa (shāqīng, 杀青) nokusongwa;
• ukomiswa kanye — nesigaba esibalulekile se-Wuyishan — bèihuǒ (焙火), ukugazinga isikhathi eside phezu kwamalahle ezinkuni.

Ukugazinga kuhlelwa ngezigaba: qīnghuǒ (轻火, ukukhanya) → zhōnghuǒ (中火, okuphakathi) → zúhuǒ / gāohuǒ (足火/高火, okunamandla). Izinga lokugazinga liyisici sesithathu emgomeni we-岩韵 kanye nolimi oluhlukile lokunambitha: ukugazinga okulula kugcina ubusha bezimbali nezithelo nokugqama kohlobo, ukugazinga okunamandla — kukhipha amathoni e-caramel ethosiwe, ‘omlilo’ futhi kunikeze ukunambitheka okuhlala isikhathi eside. Nge-rougui, ngokwesiko kuthambekela ekugazingeni okuphakathi noma okunamandla, okugqamisa ubukhali besinamoni kanye ‘nobunjengamaminerali’.

Amazinga: i-National GOST nezigaba ezinhlanu

‘I-Wuyishan rock tea’ ingumkhiqizo wophawu lwendawo, futhi ukwahlukaniswa kwayo ngokwezinhlobo ngokwezinga likazwelonke kuhlukanisa ama-wulong asemadwaleni ngezigaba ezinhlanu: dàhóngpáo (大红袍), míngcōng (名丛, izihlahla ezindala eziqanjwe ngamagama), ròuguì (肉桂), shuǐxiān (水仙) kanye ne-qízhǒng (奇种). Kokubili i-‘niurou’ ne-‘marou’ ngokusemthethweni zingena ngaphansi kwesigaba se-肉桂 — izinga limisa uhlobo nekhwalithi yezinto ezingavuthiwe, kodwa aliwagunyazi amagama ezidlaliso ‘zenyama’: ahlala ewulimi lwezentengiselwano nolokunambitha emakethe, hhayi isigaba se-GOST. Ubuqiniso bedwala elithize (i-牛栏坑 uma iqhathaniswa ne-马头岩) izinga ngokwalo aliqinisekisi — lokhu kuyinkinga yokuthembela kumhlinzeki kanye nobungcweti bezinzwa.

Ukunambitha nokusetshenziswa

Iphrofayili evamile ye-rougui — ukuhlasela okunamandla kwesinamoni, ‘ubunjengamaminerali bedwala’ (岩韵), umzimba omnyama, onamafutha kanye nokunambitheka okuhlala isikhathi eside okumnandi (huígān, 回甘).

• ‘I-Niurou’ (牛栏坑): ngenxa yesigodi esipholile nesinomthunzi, itiye ngokuvamile lichazwa njengelijulile, eliminyene nelizithobile, elinengxenye engaphezulu epholile, enezimbali ezicashile, ubunjengamaminerali obunamandla kanye nokunambitheka okuhlala isikhathi eside, okusongelayo. Lokhu ‘ungamandla ekuthuleni’.
• ‘I-Marou’ (马头岩): i-terroir enelanga kakhulu ivamise ukukhiqiza itiye elibukhali kakhulu, eliqonde ngqo neligqame kakhulu ngenothi yesinamoni, elinengxenye engaphambili ‘esishisayo’ negqamile, kodwa ngokuvamile elinomsila ‘ongajulile’ kangako uma kuqhathaniswa ne-‘niurou’ eyisibonelo.

Ukusetshenziswa (indlela ye-gōngfū): i-gàiwǎn yobumba lwe-china noma iketela le-ixing, elingaba ngu-110 ml, cishe amagremu angu-8 eqabunga, amanzi acishe abe ngu-100 °C. Ukuthela okusheshayo kokuqala kokuwasha, bese kuba uchungechunge lwezithako ezimfushane kusukela emasekhondini ambalwa kuye ngokwelulwa kancane kancane. I-rougui yasemadwaleni ye-terroir ekahle imelana kalula nezithako ezingu-8 — 10, iveza ukugazinga ezithakweni zokuqala kanye ‘nobunjengamaminerali bedwala’ — maphakathi nesesheni.

Umlando namasiko

I-Wuyishan iyisizinda somlando sama-wulong, indawo leyo ogama layo emithonjeni yaseYurophu yekhulu le-18 nele-19 lalizwakala ngokuthi ‘Bohea’ (okonakele okuthi 武夷). I-Rougui, nokho, yafika phambili emuva nje: phakathi nekhulu lama-20 yasuka ekubeni isilimo sendawo yaphenduka enye yezimpawu zesifunda kanye ne-shuixian epholile namanzi. Uhlu lwamagama ‘enyama’ luyinto esencane kakhulu, umkhiqizo wokudlondlobala kwemakethe emashumini eminyaka amuva, lapho ukuhweba ngetiye ngalinye elivela emadwaleni athile kwenza i-micro-terroir yaba yinto eqoqwayo. Kungaleso sikhathi lapho i-‘niurou’ yaba uphawu lwesikhundla, futhi wonke umndeni we-肉 waba ibalazwe elisebenziseka kalula lamakheli asemadwaleni.

Indlela yokuhlukanisa

• Uhlobo lunye. Uma unikezwa i-‘niurou’ ne-‘marou’ njengezinhlobo ezihlukene — lokho kuyiphutha: zombili ziyi-rougui.
• Umehluko use-terroir. I-牛栏坑 (isigodi, umthunzi, ukuphola) uma iqhathaniswa ne-马头岩 (amadwala, ilanga, ukuvuleka); yingakho ‘ukujula nokuzithiba’ uma kuqhathaniswa ‘nobukhali nokugqama’.
• Ungadidanisi nokugazinga. Umehluko ku-yányùn kufanele uzwakale ngale kwezinga lomlilo; uma wonke umlingiswa wetiye uncipha emathoneni okushiswa kwe-caramel, leyophrofayili yokugazinga, hhayi ye-terroir.
• Qaphela ngobuqiniso. I-牛栏坑 yangempela incane kakhulu ngokomzimba, futhi iningi le-‘niurou’ yasemakethe iyi-rougui evela ezindaweni ezingomakhelwane noma ezaziwa kancane. Azikho izimpawu ezinokwethenjelwa ‘zasensimini’: ubuqiniso bunikezwa kuphela idumela lomthombo kanye nokunambitha okunolwazi, hhayi intengo noma igama elihle.

Umqondo oyinhloko we-‘niurou’ ne-‘marou’ ulula futhi uyihlonipho: uhlobo olulodwa, amadwala amabili, inkuleko yokugazinga eyodwa — bese uyezwa ukuthi i-terroir ngokwayo ikhuluma kanjani.