金牡丹

Phakathi kwama-cultivars anamuhla akhethiwe, athuthukiswa isayensi yetiye yaseFujian ngokusekelwe ku-classic 铁观音 tiěguānyīn, indawo ekhethekile iphethwe ama-hybrid anephunga elimnandi 金观音 jīn guānyīn kanye ne-金牡丹 jīn mǔdān. Akuyona ‘itiye elisha’, kodwa izitshalo ezintsha — izinhlobo zezihlahla, ezinikeze abakhiqizi ithuluzi lephunga elimnandi elizinzile ngobuchwepheshe bezolimo obulula.

Ukuthi ziyini lezi zinhlobo

Kurejista yama-cultivars esiko le-铁观音, lezi zitshalo zihamba njengeqembu elihlukile — njengemikhiqizo ye-NRII yetiye (ama-hybrid e-茶科所), emi eduze kwezinye izinhlobo zanamuhla ezinephunga elimnandi ezifana ne-黄观音 huáng guānyīn ne-紫玫瑰 zǐ méiguī. Zonke zihlangene ngomqondo ofanayo: ukuqinisa ‘iphunga eliphakeme’ (高香 gāo xiāng), kuyilapho kugcinwa isakhiwo sokunambitheka kwe-oolong.

Bobabili i-金观音 ne-金牡丹 bagcina ukuhlobana nomzali wabo i-铁观音, lapho bazuze khona ukuminyana kwengaphuzo kanye ‘nokugcwala kwe-oolong’, kodwa bakhethwa ngenxa yenothi yezimbali ephezulu eqinisiwe. I-金牡丹 iwukukhethwa okungudadewabo bohlelo olufanayo, okuphawulwa ikakhulukazi iphrofayili ‘efana nephunga lamakha’, ey-orchid-floral, okwenza yathola igama ‘eliyimbali’ (牡丹 mǔdān — i-peony).

Isici esibalulekile sezolimo kuzo zombili lezi zinhlobo ukuvumelana nezimo okuphezulu kanye nephunga elimnandi eliqinile lezinto ezingavuthiwe. Yingakho ngempela zaphuma ngokushesha ngaphandle kwe-Anxi (安溪) futhi zasakazekela kwezinye izifunda zetiye zaseFujian, ngaphezu kwakho konke ezintabeni zase-Wuyi (武夷山), lapho zisetshenziswa khona njengama-cultivar ‘angenisiwe’ anephunga elimnandi kakhulu kuma-rock oolong (岩茶 yánchá).

I-Terroir kanye nezifunda ezilinywa kuzo

Umzala wohlelo wangempela yindawo yetiye yaseNyakatho neNingizimu yeFujian, lapho kusebenza khona izikhungo ezikhethekile nalapho kwakheka khona izikole ezimbili ezinkulu ze-oolong ngokomlando: e-Anxi (eNingizimu Fujian) nase-Wuyishan (eNyakatho Fujian). Ngokwazo, i-金观音 ne-金牡丹 ziyizinhlobo eziguquguqukayo, futhi lokhu kungumqondo wazo wezomnotho: zinikeza iphunga elimnandi elaziwayo enhlabathini ehlukahlukene, hhayi kuphela ‘ku-terroir eyireferensi’.

• E-Anxi (yangaphakathi nengaphandle — 内安溪 ∕ 外安溪, enezifunda ezintathu eziyinhloko 西坪 xīpíng, 祥华 xiánghuá, 感德 gǎndé) lawa ma-cultivar ahlanganiswa nesiko le-oolong njengokungezelela ‘okunephunga elimnandi’ ekutshalweni kwe-铁观音 uqobo.
• E-Wuyishan alethwa ngenxa yephunga elimnandi kakhulu: ku-terroir yedwala (岩 yán) nangokugazinga kwendawo, anikeza ‘ikhala’ lezimbali eligqamile kuyilapho egcina isisekelo samaminerali.

Kubalulekile ukuqonda: i-terroir lapha isebenza ngendlela ehlukile kunaleyo yezingcweti ‘eziqokiwe’. Ku-金观音 ne-金牡丹, into ehamba phambili yesitayela ayiyona indawo kangako, kodwa uhlobo nobuchwepheshe bokusebenza.

Ubuchwepheshe

Womabili ama-cultivar asebenza ngezindlela ezahlukene zokukhiqiza, futhi lokhu kuyingxenye yokubaluleka kwawo.

Njenge-oolong acutshungulwa ngohlelo lwaseNingizimu Fujian (‘lwase-Anxi’) noma lwaseNyakatho Fujian (‘lwase-Wuyishan’):

• ukubuna nokunyakazisa (做青 zuòqīng) — uchungechunge lokunyakazisa nokuphumula okushintshanayo, okwakha i-oxidation eyingxenye emaphethelweni eqabunga ‘nokwembulwa’ kwephunga elimnandi;
• ukulungisa (杀青 shāqīng) — ukumisa ama-enzyme ngokushisa;
• ukusonga ∕ ukubumba — isitayela sase-Anxi sibonakala ‘nge-granule’ eqinile (i-pellet rolling), kanti esase-Wuyishan ikhasi ‘eliyimichilo’ elihamba ngobude (条形 tiáoxíng);
• ukomisa nokugazinga (焙火 bèihuǒ) — kusukela kokulula (清香 qīngxiāng, uhlobo olunephunga elikhanyayo) kuya ekugazingweni okujulile ngamalahle (炭焙 tànbèi, okuminyene 浓香 nóngxiāng).

Lapha kusebenza futhi ‘i-eksisi yezikole’ yokusebenza, ebalulekile emakethe yama-oolong aseNingizimu Fujian: 正味 zhèngwèi (iprofayili yakudala, ‘ehlanzekile’ kakhudlwana), 消青 xiāoqīng kanye ne-拖酸 tuōsuān (izinhlobonhlobo ezinamazinga ahlukene kanye nomqondo wesikhathi wokwenza i-做青). Izinhlobo ezinamakha aphezulu zembulwa ngokuphawulekayo ngendlela ekhanyayo enephunga elimnandi (清香), lapho ingxenye yazo enezimbali ‘ingamunywa’ ukugazinga.

Njenge-rock oolong (e-Wuyishan) zenziwa ngobuchwepheshe bendawo ngokugazinga okuphoqelekile, bese kuthi ubumbali bohlobo lubekwe phezu kwesisekelo samaminerali ‘edwala’.

Amazinga

Isisekelo esijwayelekile sokulawula sama-oolong esiko le-铁观音 — amazinga kazwelonke e-安溪铁观音 kanye nemibhalo ehambisanayo (ngezinhlobo zephunga, amabanga, nemingcele yezinto ezingavuthiwe netiye eselilungile). Kulezi zinhlelo, i-金观音 ne-金牡丹 zivela ngokuqondile njengama-cultivar ∕ izinhlobo zezinto ezingavuthiwe, hhayi ‘njengamagama avikelwe’ azimele: itiye eliphuma kuzo lihlukaniswa ngohlobo lwephunga (清香 ∕ 浓香 ∕ 陈香 qīngxiāng ∕ nóngxiāng ∕ chénxiāng) kanye nebanga (kusukela ku-特级 tèjí kuya emazingeni aphansi), kanti ubunikazi bohlobo buchazwa ngokwehlukana. Kuma-rock oolong asuka kulezi zinhlobo, kusetshenziswa uhlaka lokulawula lwe-岩茶 yase-Wuyishan. Izinombolo eziqondile nezibuyekezo zamazinga azinikezwanga ngamabomu lapha, ukuze kunganikezwa izikhombo ezingaqinisekisiwe.

Isiphetho esisebenzayo somthengi: ifomula ethi ‘金观音’ noma ‘金牡丹’ epaketheni iyinkomba yohlobo, hhayi isiqinisekiso sokudabuka ku-terroir ‘eqokiwe’ ethile.

Ukunambitheka nokuphisa

Ikhadi levakashelo elijwayelekile lazo zombili lezi zinhlobo yiphunga lezimbali elinamandla, elifundeka kalula ‘ngenkathi ungena’. Ku-金观音 kuvame ukuba nephunga le-orchid-floral elinokujula okuncane okubabayo; ku-金牡丹 kuphawuleka ‘njengamakha’, okugcizelela ubumnandi bezimbali, ngezinye izikhathi kunamathoni ezithelo. Ngendlela ye-oolong (清香) ingaphuzo likhanya, linephunga elimnandi, linomzimba obushelelezi; uma kugazingiwe (浓香 ∕ 炭焙) kuvela ukujula kwe-nutty ne-caramel-toasty, bese kuthi ubumbali buphume bube ubumnandi ‘obungemuva’.

Izincomo zokuphisa zincike ohlotsheni nasesikoleni:

• I-oolong enephunga elikhanyayo (清香): i-porcelain gaiwan noma i-zisha, amanzi acishe abe ngu-95 – 100 °C, ukugcwaliswa okuphezulu, ukuphisa okufushane (okokuqala — 10 – 20 s) ngokunwetshwa kancane kancane. Iphunga elimnandi ‘lifundeka’ kangcono ngesembozo nasenkomishini epholayo.
• I-oolung egazingiwe ∕ i-rock (浓香 ∕ 岩茶): amanzi abilayo, isitsha esiminyene, ukuphisa okude kancane; itiye likwazi ukumelana nokuphisa okuningi, kancane kancane likhiphe ubumnandi bokugazinga.

Umlando nendima esikweni

Ukuvela kwe-金观音, 金牡丹 kanye nezihlobo zazo i-黄观音 ne-紫玫瑰 kuyingxenye yenguquko enkulu emashumini eminyaka amuva: ukusuka ekuncikeni kuphela kuma-cultivar akudala ‘aqokiwe’ kuya ekukhetheni izinhlobo ezikhethelwe ngokukhethekile isidingo semakethe sephunga eliphakeme nokusebenziseka kalula kobuchwepheshe. Ngokugcina ukuhlobana ne-铁观音, lezi zitshalo zinikeze imboni ‘insiza yephunga elimnandi’, eye yafunwa kakhulu eNingizimu yeFujian, nakuma-rock oolong aseWuyishan.

Ngaleyo ndlela, i-金观音 ne-金牡丹 zithathe isikhundla esikabili: ngokusemthethweni ziyingxenye yomndeni wama-cultivar azungeze i-铁观音, kodwa empeleni ziphila lapho kuhlangana khona amasiko amaningana etiye, zihamba phakathi kwezigaba nezitayela.

Ungazihlukanisa kanjani

• Yizinhlobo, hhayi indawo noma ‘isikole’. Bheka ilebula ukuthola igama elithi 金观音 jīn guānyīn noma 金牡丹 jīn mǔdān eceleni kwenkomba yohlobo lwephunga (清香 ∕ 浓香) kanye nesifunda.
• Ungayiphambanisi ne-安溪铁观音. Iqembu ‘le-色种’ kanye nama-hybrid anephunga elimnandi avame ukuhamba ngaphansi ‘kwesambulela se-oolong’ esijwayelekile; ikhala elinephunga eliphakeme, ngokusobala ‘elifana namakha’ elinokunambitheka okulula ngemuva liyisizathu sokusola i-cultivar enephunga elimnandi ngempela, hhayi i-铁观音 yakudala enomqondo wayo odumile i-音韵 yīnyùn.
• Umongo wesifunda. Ekukhethweni kwase-Wuyishan, i-金观音 ∕ 金牡丹 ngokuvamile iyimpahla ‘engenisiwe enephunga elimnandi kakhulu’ ye-岩茶, hhayi izihlahla zendawo ‘eziqokiwe’; kwelasenxi iwukungezelela okunephunga elimnandi ekutshalweni kwe-铁观音.
• 金观音 vs 金牡丹. Uma zonke izinto zilingana, i-金牡丹 ngokuvamile inikeza iphrofayili ‘enjengezimbali-ubumnandi’, efana namakha, kanti i-金观音 iyinkimbinkimbi ‘njenge-oolong’, enokujula kwe-orchid-spicy.

Isiphetho: i-金观音 ne-金牡丹 ziyisibonelo esibonakalayo sokuthi ukukhethwa kwetiye kwesimanje kuyilwandisa kanjani iphalethi ye-oolong. Lezi yizinhlobo ‘eziphethe iphunga elimnandi’, ezaziseka ngokuvumelana kwazo nezimo, futhi kufanele zifundwe kuqala njenge-cultivar, bese kuba yisitayela ne-terroir.