zàngchá

I-black tea (hēichá) evela edolobheni lase-Ya’an emaphethelweni asentshonalanga ye-Sichuan Basin — ‘itiye laseTibet’ (zàngchá 藏茶), osekungamakhulu eminyaka lihanjiswa ngezindlela zezinqola eziya ezingxenyeni eziphakeme zaseTibet. Ngemuva kwesiphetho sayo kunohlelo oluphelele: izifunda zetiye eziphansi kwezintaba ze-Hengduan, indawo yokudlulisa impahla e-Kangding kanye nesikhungo sasendulo sokuhweba ngetiye namahhashi — chámǎsī 茶马司.

I-Terroir: “idolobha lemvula” kanye nomkhawulo osentshonalanga we-basin

Umnyombo wokukhiqiza i-zàngchá — isifunda sase-Yucheng (雨城区) edolobheni lase-Ya’an (Yǎ’ān). Igama uqobo lwalo i-雨城 lisho “idolobha lemvula”: indawo esemngceleni osentshonalanga we-Sichuan Basin, lapho imimoya enomswakama ishayisana khona nemithambeka esempumalanga yohlelo lwe-Hengduan, inikeza imvula eningi nokuguqubala kwamafu okungapheli. Lapha, ezigodini ezifana ne-Daxing (大兴) ne-Caoba (草坝), ngokomlando kwakugxile izimboni zetiye kanye “nezinombolo zetiye” (cháhào 茶号), kanti impahla eluhlaza kanye nemikhiqizo emithathu yakudala — i-kāngzhuān 康砖, i-jīnjiān 金尖 kanye ne-yǎxì 雅细 — kwakha umgogodla walesi sigaba.

Ngaphesheya kwe-Yucheng kwakheka ibhande lezifunda zetiye zasemngceleni, ngasinye sinendima yaso endaweni nasekulungiseleleni impahla:

• Mingshan (名山区) — ingumakhelwane nentaba edumile i-Mengding (Méngdǐngshān 蒙顶山) futhi igcina okuwukuphela kwesikhumbuzo esisekhona sokuphathwa kohwebo lwetiye namahhashi — i-chámǎsī e-Xindian (新店). Le ndawo ixhumanisa ukukhiqizwa kwetiye lasemngceleni nomlando wenhlangano yohwebo.
• Tianquan (天全) — isifunda esidala setiye lasemngceleni (isikhungo saso sise-Shiyang 始阳), esime ezansi empumalanga yogwadule lwe-Erlang (Èrlángshān 二郎山); lokhu kwakuyisango elibheke e-Kangding.
• Yingjing (荥经) — isifunda setiye lasemngceleni kanye nendawo ebalulekile yomgwaqo wokuhweba ngetiye namahhashi emngceleni osempumalanga wezintaba ze-Hengduan.
• Hanyuan kanye ne-Shimian (汉源 / 石棉) — izifunda eziseningizimu esigodini somfula i-Dadu (Dàdù hé 大渡河), ezazihlinzeka ngezinto zokusetshenziswa kanye netiye lasemngcelini eseliphelele.
• Leshan (乐山) — emagqumeni ase-Emei, nayo yayikhiqiza izinto zokusetshenziswa zegatsha eliseningizimu letiye lasemngcelini.

Zonke lezi zindawo zihlanganiswe ngumqondo othi 南路边茶 (nánlù biānchá) — “itiye lasemngcelini lomzila oseningizimu”. Yigatsha eliseningizimu, elisuka e-Ya’an lidlule e-Kangding, elanikeza umhlaba i-zàngchá yesimanje.

Indawo yokuhlangana yase-Kangding kanye nomongo womzila osentshonalanga

I-Kangding (Kāngdìng 康定), ngokomlando eyaziwa ngokuthi i-Dajianlu (打箭炉), — ayiyona indawo yokukhiqiza kangako njengoba iyindawo yokudlulisa impahla kanye nesikhungo sokuhwebelana ngetiye namahhashi (chámǎ hùshì 茶马互市). Itholakala phezulu ezintabeni zase-Hengduan, yayisebenza njengesango eliya ezindaweni zaseTibet: lapha itiye elivela e-basin lalayishwa kabusha bese liqhubekela entshonalanga, liye eThafeni laseTibet.

Kufanele kuphawulwe nesigaba esihlobene — 西路边茶 (xīlù biānchá), “itiye lasemngcelini lomzila osentshonalanga”, elivela esifundeni sase-Dujiangyan nase-Beichuan lapho kuhlangana khona izintaba ze-Min (岷山) ne-Longmen (龙门山). Lokhu kuyimpahla eluhlaza emahhadlahhadla, okwenziwa ngayo i-方包茶 (fāngbāochá) kanye ne-茯砖 (fúzhuān). Umzila osentshonalanga — ungumakhelwane nomongo womzila oseningizimu: zombili lezi zigaba zingaphansi kwetiye lasemngcelini laseSichuan, kodwa i-Ya’an negatsha layo eliseningizimu ihlala ingumthombo weqiniso we-zàngchá.

Izinto zokusetshenziswa kanye nohlobo lwetiye

I-Zàngchá — i-black tea (hēichá), futhi izinto zokusetshenziswa zayo kungamahlumela amadala, amahhadlahhadla anengxenye yeziqu ezinokhuni (cūlǎo 粗老). Le nto, engafanele kangako ‘amatiye aluhlaza athambile’, ngokomlando yaba yisisekelo sohwebo lwasemngceleni: yayinikeza uketshezi oluqinile, olunothile, olukwazi ukumelana nohambo olude namanzi asindayo ezindaweni eziphakeme.

Ukucubungula: ukuvutshelwa njengenhliziyo yetiye lasemngcelini

Isici esiyinhloko sobuchwepheshe betiye lasemngcelini laseningizimu — ukuvutshelwa okujulile kwe-microbial yezinto zokusetshenziswa. Ngemuva kokulungiswa kokuqala nokusontwa, uhlaza luhlala isikhathi eside “lubekwe” endaweni emanzi futhi efudumele (wòduī 渥堆), lapho ama-microflora ecubungula khona izinto zokusetshenziswa ezimahhadla, ethambisa ukuphanga, ejulisa futhi enza uketshezi lube mnyama. Lokhu kwenza i-zàngchá ihlobane nawo wonke umndeni wama-hēichá, kodwa kuyinikeza iphrofayela yayo uqobo, eyakhelwe ngqo izidingo zohambo olude kanye netafula laseTibet.

Itiye eseliphelele liyacindezelwa. Umehluko phakathi kwemikhiqizo emithathu yakudala utholakala ikakhulukazi ekucinaneni nasezingeni lezinto zokusetshenziswa:

• kāngzhuān 康砖 — isitini, ngokomlando esihlobene ngqo nokuhanjiswa kwempahla nge-Kangding;
• jīnjiān 金尖 — umkhiqizo owenziwe ngezinto zokusetshenziswa ezimahhadlahhadla kakhulu;
• yǎxì 雅细 — indlela ‘ecolekile’ kakhudlwana (細 isho “okucolekile, okuncane”), okubonisa igama lase-Ya’an (雅) egameni lomkhiqizo.

Ukunambitheka kanye nokwenza itiye

Iphrofayela ye-zàngchá — uketshezi olujulile, olubomvu ngokumnyama noma olunsundu ngokwebhulawuni, oluthambile futhi olujiyile, olunobumnandi obuyindilinga, ‘obuvuthiwe’ kanye nokungabikho cishe ngokuphelele kokuphanga okubukhali. Ukuvutshelwa okude kuholela ekunambithekeni okubheke ekhuni elivuthiwe, izithelo ezomisiwe kanye namathoni afudumele omhlabathi.

Isiko laseThafeni laseTibet alidingi ukwenza itiye ngendlela yomcimbi, kodwa umhluzu: itiye libiliswa isikhathi eside, livame ukuhlanganiswa nobisi lwama-yak, ibhotela nosawoti. Kulomongo, ukujiya nokugcwala kwe-zàngchá — akusona isici esibi, kodwa isimo: itiye kufanele linikeze umzimba nokufudumala esimweni sezulu esinzima. Emisebenzini yesimanje yasemadolobheni, lenziwa ngezindlela ezilula — ngokulimanzisa isikhathi eside noma ukubilisa isikhashana, kuveze isiphuzo esithambile, esifudumezayo esingenabuhlungu.

Umlando namasiko: i-chámǎsī kanye nomgwaqo

Umzila waseSichuan-Tibet wokuhweba ngetiye namahhashi — igatsha eliseningizimu yenethiwekhi enkulu yokuhweba, lapho itiye laseChina lalishintshaniswa ngamahhashi aseTibet nezinye izimpahla zezindawo eziphakeme. I-Ya’an yayingumthombo osempumalanga waleli gatsha: ukusuka lapha, itiye lasemngcelini elicindezelekile lalihanjiswa ngezinqola lidlula e-Tianquan nasogwadule lwase-Erlang, nge-Yingjing nasesigodini sase-Dadu luya e-Kangding, futhi ukusuka lapho — luye ezindaweni zaseTibet.

Inhliziyo yomthetho yalolu hlelo kwakuwuphiko lohwebo lwetiye namahhashi — i-chámǎsī 茶马司. Umbuso wawuphethe ngokuphelele ukushintshaniswa kwetiye ngamahhashi, futhi yi-chámǎsī e-Mingshan (Xindian) — okuwukuphela kwesikhumbuzo esisekhona salesi sikhungo kuze kube namuhla — esebenza njengobufakazi obuphathekayo bale nkathi. Ukuba ngumakhelwane neNtaba i-Mengding, esinye sezikhungo zetiye zasendulo kakhulu eChina, kugcizelela ukuthi amasiko etiye nohwebo lwasemngcelini kuhlangene kanjani kule ndawo.

Ungahlukanisa kanjani futhi ungaphambanisi

• Umzila oseningizimu ngokumelene nowasentshonalanga. I-Zàngchá yangempela — itiye lasemngcelini eliseningizimu (nánlù biānchá) elivela e-Ya’an. Umzila osentshonalanga (xīlù biānchá) unikeza imikhiqizo ehlukile — i-fāngbāochá kanye ne-fúzhuān; lona umugqa ohlobene, kodwa ohlukile wetiye lasemngcelini laseSichuan.
• Amafomethi amathathu e-canonical. Amagama athi kāngzhuān, jīnjiān kanye ne-yǎxì akhomba amazinga ezinto zokusetshenziswa nokucinana kokucindezela; i-yǎxì — ‘icolekile’ kakhulu ngezinto zokusetshenziswa, i-jīnjiān — imahhadla kakhulu.
• Uhlobo, hhayi “ubudala ngenxa yobudala”. I-Zàngchá — i-hēichá evutshelwe ngokujulile; ukhiye wobuqiniso awukho kwezothando ‘lobudala’, kodwa eketshezini elimnyama, elithambile, elingenabuhlungu, elidalwe ukuvutshelwa kwe-microbial.
• Izinkomba ze-terroir. Umsuka esifundeni sase-Yucheng (izigodi zase-Daxing, Caoba) kanye nebhande lezifunda i-Mingshan — i-Tianquan — i-Yingjing — i-Hanyuan / i-Shimian, ngokudluliswa kwempahla nge-Kangding, — ‘kusayina’ kokuma kwalesi sigaba.

I-Zàngchá — icala elingajwayelekile letiye, lapho isimo salo, ukunambitheka kanye nobuchwepheshe uqobo kwakhiwa umgwaqo: izinto zokusetshenziswa ezimahhadla, ukuvutshelwa okujulile kanye nokucindezelwa okuqinile kwavela njengempendulo ezidingweni zenqola netafula lasezindaweni eziphakeme. Futhi nanamuhla esitini esivela e-Ya’an kungafundwa lonke icebo lomzila waseSichuan-Tibet wokuhweba ngetiye namahhashi — kusukela “edolobheni lemvula” emaphethelweni e-basin kuya emasangweni ase-Kangding nasethafeni elingaphaya kwawo.