mǎ ròu

Ngaphansi kwegama lesidlaliso elithi mǎ ròu (马肉, ngokwezwi nezwi “inyama yehhashi”) e-Wuyishan akuqondwa nhlobo inyama, kodwa i-wulong i-rougui (肉桂, ròuguì), ekhule endaweni yaseMatouyan (马头岩, mǎtóuyán) — iDwala Lasehhashi. Lokhu kungenye yezinto ezaziwa kakhulu “emndenini wenyama” wamatiya asezindaweni eziwugwadule ase-Wuyishan, lapho igama lakhiwa nge-shanchang (山场, shānchǎng, indawo-terroir) kanye nohlobo lwembewu. I-Mǎ ròu — akulona uhlobo oluhlukile futhi akusilo umkhiqizo ojwayelekile, kodwa igama lokuhweba neterroir: i-rougui yemvelaphi yaseMatouyan ngqo.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa Ngokwezigaba kanye Nemvelaphi:

• Uhlobo: i-wulong yasendaweni eyiwugwadule yase-Wuyishan (武夷岩茶, wǔyí yánchá, “itiya lasezindaweni eziwugwadule”, emithonjeni yomlando — i-Bohea); uhlobo lwembewu i-rougui enemvelaphi yaseMatouyan.
• Isigaba: igama lokuhweba neterroir eliyingxenye “yomndeni wenyama” wama-rougui ase-Wuyishan; igama lemakethe, hhayi elomthetho.
• Imvelaphi: I-China, isifunda sase-Fujian, izintaba zase-Wuyishan, indawo yaseMatouyan (马头岩) — umgogodla wendawo evikelekile yesigaba se-zhèngyán (正岩).
• Izinga le-Terroir: ama-wulong ase-Wuyishan ahlukaniswa ngezinga le-terroir ngezigaba ezintathu — zhèngyán (正岩) — amatiya aphuma ezindaweni eziwugwadule endaweni evikelekile, bànyán (半岩) — avela ezintabeni eziphansi, kanye zhōuchá (洲茶) — avela ezindundumeni ezingasemifuleni. Leli zinga lisebenza njengesiphindaphinda sentengo futhi sinquma ukuthi itiya lizongenxa yini esigabeni se-premium. I-Matouyan ingeyesigaba se-zhèngyán — indawo ephelele yomgogodla ovikelekile, kanye ne-micro-terroir eyinganekwane “yezihosha ezintathu, imifudlana emibili, amagodi amabili kanye nomhume owodwa” (三坑两涧两窠一洞, sānkēng liǎngjiàn liǎngkē yīdòng).

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

• Uhlobo lwembewu i-rougui e-Wuyishan: i-rougui njengohlobo lwembewu yasabalala kakhulu e-Wuyishan ngekhulu lama-20 futhi ngokuhamba kwesikhathi yathatha indawo yamanye ama-míngcōng (名丛) amadala, yaba, kanye ne-shuixian (水仙), insika yemikhiqizo yesifunda.
• Uhlelo lwamagama “olwenyama”: uhlelo lwamagama lwe-terroir “olwenyama” luyinto yesimanje, ye-Wuyishan evuthiwe ngokwemakethe. Ngenkathi abathandi befunda ukuhlukanisa amatiya ngamadwala athile nangezihosha, kwazalwa izidlaliso ezihlangene, eziqinisa ukuxhumana kohlobo lwembewu nendawo.
• Imvelaphi yegama: igama ledwala iMatouyan libhekisela ekumile kwalo, okufana nekhanda lehhashi. I-Mǎ ròu namuhla isebenza njengophawu oluvelele lwaseMatouyan.

3. Incazelo Yezezitshalo kanye Nezinto Ezingavuthiwe:

• Uhlobo Lwembewu/Cultivar: i-rougui (肉桂, ròuguì, “isihlahla sesinamoni”; igama elidala elithi 玉桂, yùguì liyatholakala) — uhlobo lwembewu lwendabuko lwase-Wuyishan lwesihlahla (灌木, guànmù), olukhethwe ku-gene pool yendawo futhi ekugcineni lwatshalwa njengohlobo oluthuthukisiwe (良种).
• Indawo ekuhlukanisweni kwezinhlobo zezembewu: ekuhlukanisweni kwesimanje kwama-wulong ase-Wuyishan, i-rougui kanye ne-shuixian kwakha ipheya le-dāngjiā pǐnzhǒng (当家品种) — “izinhlobo zembewu eziyinhloko”, eziyisisekelo zezimboni zesifunda, ngokungafani neqembu lama-míngcōng adumile kanye nama-qízhǒng (奇种) endawo.
• Isici sohlobo lwembewu: isici esivelele — iphunga elimandla, elaziwayo, lapho ngokwesiko kuqokonyiswa inothi lexolo lesinamoni (桂皮香, guìpí xiāng), kanye nezici zezimbali nezithelo kanye nezici ezinokhilimu-”nobisi”. Uhlobo lwembewu “luwubamba” kahle i-terroir: uma lutshalwa ezindaweni ezihlukene ze-shanchang, luveza amatiya ahluke ngokusobala — okwadala umndeni “wenyama”.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokutshala:

• I-Matouyan (马头岩): indawo ephelele yomgogodla ovikelekile wesigaba se-zhèngyán.
• Inhlabathi: amadwala agugulekile entaba-mlilo kanye nenhlabathi eningi yamatshe futhi edonsa amanzi kahle; yilokhu kwasemamineraleni okuyi-substrate, ngokwesiko lase-Wuyishan, okwakha i-yán yùn (岩韵) — “i-aftertaste yasendaweni eyiwugwadule”, okuyisigaba senani esiyinhloko kulawa matiya.
• Ifomula ye-terroir: ifomula eyinhloko, okusekelwe kuyo lonke uhlobo lwesifunda — i-yán yùn = i-shanchang × uhlobo lwembewu × ubuningi bokugazinga (山场 × 品种 × 焙火). Ngokushintsha noma yisiphi kulezi ziphindaphinda ezintathu, sithola elinye itiya. I-Matouyan inikeza isiphindaphinda sokuqala.
• Umndeni “wenyama”: uma i-rougui itshalwa endaweni ethile enegama, imakethe inikeza umphumela isidlaliso ngohlelo “i-shanchang + 肉” (isifinyezo se-肉桂). Ngale ndlela kwakheka wonke umndeni:
  • 牛肉 niú ròu — i-rougui yasesihosheni i-Niulankeng (牛栏坑);
  • 马肉 mǎ ròu — yaseMatouyan (马头岩);
  • 猪肉 zhū ròu — yasegumeni i-Zhuke (竹窠);
  • 猴肉 hóu ròu — yaseShuiliandong (水帘洞);
  • 羊肉 yáng ròu — yaseSanyangfeng (三仰峰);
  • 心头肉 xīntóu ròu — yasedwaleni i-Tianxinyan (天心岩);
  • 龙肉 lóng ròu — yaseJiulongke (九龙窠);
  • 虎肉 hǔ ròu — yaseHuxiaoyan (虎啸岩).
• Indawo emndenini: ebiza kakhulu futhi ekhangiswa kakhulu kubhekwa i-niú ròu yaseNiulankeng, kanti i-mǎ ròu inendawo eqinisekile eduze kwayo njengenye yama-terroir ayisibonelo “amakhulu”.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

• Umjikelezo: ngokobuchwepheshe i-mǎ ròu idlula emjikelezweni wakudala we-wulong yase-Wuyishan — ukubuna, “ukunyakazisa” okuphindaphindiwe-oxidation yeqabunga (做青, zuòqīng), ukubambelela, ukusonga kanye nokomisa.
• Ukuqeda ngomlilo (焙火, bèihuǒ): indima ebalulekile kuphrofayili yokugcina idlalwa izinga lokugazinga ngamalahle ezinkuni — isiphindaphinda sesithathu efomuleni ye-aftertaste yasendaweni eyiwugwadule:
  • qīng huǒ (轻火) — ukugazinga okulula: ubuningi bephunga lohlobo lwembewu, ukungena kombala okukhanyayo;
  • zhōng huǒ (中火) — ukugazinga okumaphakathi: ukulingana kwephunga kanye nokujula “komlilo”, ifomethi esabalele kakhulu ye-rougui;
  • zú huǒ / gāo huǒ (足火/高火) — ukugazinga okugcwele (okuphezulu): uhlaka oluqinile, “olusha-i-caramel”, olugcinwa isikhathi eside.
• I-mǎ ròu efanayo esemlilweni olula nogcwele izobonakala njengamatiya amabili ahlukene.

6. Izici Ze-Organoleptic:

• Isimo: i-rougui yasendaweni eyiwugwadule isiyonke — itiya elinesimo esigqamile, “esibukhali”; okuhlukile kwaseMatouyan ngokwesiko kuchazwa njengokuvulekile, okuvamafutha okuphimisayo, okunezinongo ezihlanzekile zesinamoni phezu kwesisekelo sezimbali nezithelo kanye ne-aftertaste yamaminerali, “enamatshe”.
• Uma kuqhathaniswa ne-niú ròu: uma kuqhathaniswa ne-niú ròu eqinile futhi “ehlezi ngokujulile”, i-mǎ ròu ivame ukubonwa njengomoya ovuleke kakhulu futhi ovuleke ngokwephunga — nakuba umphumela wokugcina uhlala uncike ebhentshini elithile, unyaka kanye nomlilo.

9. Ukuphisa:

Ukuphisa kuvumelaniswa nezinga lokugazinga. Izinkomba ezijwayelekile:

• Izitsha: i-gaiwan noma i-teapot yase-Yixing yomthamo omncane, ukugoqwa kweqabunga okuminyene;
• Amanzi: asondele ebilini (cishe 95 – 100 °C);
• Ukuthululela: okufushane, ngokukhipha ngokushesha; ukungena kokuqala — imizuzwana embalwa, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ubude besikhathi buyandiswa kancane kancane;
• Inani lokuthululela: okuningi — i-mǎ ròu yekhwalithi iyazivula ngamagagasi futhi ayihlali phansi isikhathi eside.

Kumatiya omlilo onamandla, ikhefu elifushane ngemva kokuthenga liyawusiza: i-rougui egazingwe kahle izivula kangcono, uma ivumela “umlilo” ukuba uhlale phansi.

11. Intengo kanye Nemikhohliso:

• Amazinga: ama-wulong ase-Wuyishan avikelwe njengomkhiqizo wenkomba yezindawo, kanti i-rougui ibonakala ezingeni likazwelonke le-武夷岩茶 njengomunye wemikhiqizo eqanjwe ngegama ngezigaba zayo zekhwalithi (izigaba zokuhweba ezimbalwa ngokwehla kwekhwalithi). I-rougui yangempela yaseMatouyan inohlaka olusemthethweni: imvelaphi endaweni evikelekile yase-Wuyishan, ukuba ngohlobo lwe-rougui, nokuhambisana nezidingo ze-organoleptic zesigaba esifanele. Izinga elithile (isibonelo, elikhethekile/elokuqala) likhonjwe umdayisi futhi lihlolelwa ukunambitha; “马肉” ngesikhathi esifanayo lihlala liyigama lemakethe, hhayi elomthetho.
• Ukwahlukanisa kanjani:
  • I-rougui, hhayi isihlahla esihlukile. Noma iyiphi i-mǎ ròu yangempela iwuhlobo lwembewu i-rougui; “马肉” ikhomba kuphela imvelaphi yaseMatouyan.
  • Izinga le-terroir. I-mǎ ròu yangempela yitiya le-zhèngyán elisendaweni evikelekile; imvelaphi esezintabeni eziphansi (bànyán) noma ezindundumeni (zhōuchá) ayilinikezanga ilungelo leli gama.
  • I-aftertaste yasendaweni eyiwugwadule. Funani i-yán yùn — “ubunamatshe” bamaminerali kanye ne-aftertaste ende, ehlanzekile; ukungena okuyize, okuyisicaba ngegama elimsindo kuyisizathu sokungabaza.
  • Iphunga lohlobo lwembewu. Isinamoni esaziwayo esibabayo phezu kwesisekelo sezimbali nezithelo kuwuphawu lwe-rougui; ukungabikhona kwaso akujwayelekile.
  • Ukuvumelana nokugazinga. Iphrofayili kufanele ihambisane nomlilo oshiwoyo (qīng/zhōng/zú huǒ) ngaphandle “kokusha” okubukhali noma, ngokuphambene, ubuhlaza obungavuthiwe.
  • Ukuqhathanisa ngepheya. Indlela engcono kakhulu yokulinganisa ukubona ukuqhathanisa i-mǎ ròu ne-niú ròu yengcweti efanayo nonyaka ofanayo: umehluko we-terroir ngohlobo olulodwa lwembewu nomlilo ofanayo yiwona ozokhombisa “ubuso” beDwala Lasehhashi.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

• Emndenini “wenyama” wama-rougui ase-Wuyishan, ebiza kakhulu futhi ekhangiswa kakhulu kubhekwa i-niú ròu yaseNiulankeng, kanti i-mǎ ròu ingomunye wama-terroir ayisibonelo “amakhulu” eduze kwayo.
• Igama elithi “马肉” (ngokwezwi nezwi “inyama yehhashi”) liwumdlalo wamagama: uhlamvu lokuqala luthathwe egameni ledwala iMatouyan (马头岩, “Idwala Lasehhashi”), elesibili (肉) luyisifinyezo se-肉桂 (rougui).